Відео

I was using 16/0.2mm hookup wire (22AWG equiv) but it really doesn't matter what size, we're just conducting away static before it can build up so we don't need super low resistance. The exception to that is spindle grounding if you have a spindle, that needs to be at least the gauge of the other cores in the spindle power cord. HTH

boomer can't find the volume knob, huh?

Glad you found it useful, I learnt a lot making it.

Ah, yep, there wsa a load of background noise which I had to filter and it messed up the audio, didn't realise until too late.

Thanks, you're referring to the spreadsheet posted on the carbide3d community forums? Yep, that should be 0.5 meters as suitable for an XL / XXL long axis and 0.28 for a regular length axis, however, so long as you enter the distance you actually used you'll get the right frequency calculation out, it's just easier to use the longer distance on the XXL. On the measuring out, sorry that's not clear, what I meant was to measure 200mm from the frame end and then another 280mm or 500mm from there. We're mostly interested in the length of the belt segment under test so all the 200mm does is space away from the endplate and minimise the additional pre-tension added when you put the support blocks in.

Thx, You could increase the belt tension if the stepper axial load rating is larger, but once you've got past about 100N there's no improvement in backlash or deflection and the belt life will likely reduce as there's more strain on it. If the stepper vendor has data remember to double the belt tension to get the axial load on the motor for both sides of the belt. The main benefit I would see of the 8mm shaft stepper would be to put wider pulleys and 15mm belts on the machine to get either get reduced deflection from a wider steel-cored belt or to do like the Shapeoko Pro and use the harder wearing fiberglass cored belt but in 15mm to make up for the reduced strength. HTH

@@computersandwood488 Thanks, I'm using 8mm shafts linear rails on x and y and kevlar belts, but still have a little backlash when doing 10mm> circles. But I got a nice improvement with the belts at 160hz

Thanks Becky, First, I don't sell this machine, I'm just a user of the machine. The machine electronic enclosure is grounded by the supplied power supply to the utility ground. If you ground from some other source then you'll have different ground potentials on the machine and create new problems. If the utility ground in your region is not safe to use for grounding the machine then that is a different issue. I would certainly not recommend that a user drives a ground rod at their site to make up for underlying electrical issues in their wiring, that is a job for a qualified electrician. I also recommend using 1M Ohm resistors in the ground connections for several reasons, ground loop reduction primarily but also risk reduction in the case of a floating ground connection or other problems. We are only draining away static charge here so very high resistances are fine.

Glad it's helping people, #1 - That does indeed sound like the static charge may have created a clog in the hose. #2 - On a hose without a wire, assuming it is semiconductive you can wrap a wire round it or use a metal jubilee clip which doubles up by anchoring the hose. I'd suggest running an insulated ground wire from the common ground point to the dust deputy and then breaking that out into two grouding points for the two bits of hose. #3 - I recommended the resistor on all the lines to remove the risk of creating a ground loop as the Shapeoko CNC is quite sensitive to those. I grounded all the parts of mine back to the panel where my CNC and the VFD for the spindle is fed from and didn't use the resistors, but I was confident that I could spot the ground loop problem if it appeared. You can buy plugs which are for plugging anti-static wrist straps into; www.antistat.co.uk/product/earth-plug-shrouded-banana-socket-stud/ Or you could crimp some resistors inline with the wire; www.amazon.co.uk/Ohm-Metal-Film-Resistor-Tolerance/dp/B00WX6KZUE If you buy the 1W type they tend to have larger leads which you could fold over and grip in a small crimp terminal, but the leads don't like to be flexed so make sure they're not going to be physically stressed. It might help to heat shrink the whole lot or something to protect them a bit. #4 The wire size doesn't matter at all, this is meant to be low current and the 1 million ohm resistor is going to make the resistance of the wire irrelevant. Use whatever stranded wire you have handy. #5 Not sure if Mike posted on the Carbide forum where there's lots of discussion about the grounding.

Ah, on my machine they go straight into the switchgear box for my VFD spindle but there's quite a few option, if you use the Carbide3d forums community.carbide3d.com post a message there and I'll see if I can come up with a useful answer for you

Thank you Sir!!

@@MrTeamfitz I would ignore half the advice on this tutorial. He makes a good point about the ground loop but you should be driving a ground rod then running a strap from the rod to a ground bar in the panel. (A brass bar with multiple tapped holes to land ground wires. All of your grounds going to the machine side should originate from this bar. The example showing him land a wire on a plastic wire clamp is not a good idea, surely you can find a better spot to land.

That plastic wire clamp is also the head of a bolt threaded into the anodized aluminium, as I point out you need to find somewhere to break through the insulating layer of aluminium oxide and a threaded hole is a good bet for that. Of course you're welcome to make your own suggestions, perhaps you should start a channel?