Відео

It looks like it's cleaning? How would you know without a before picture? Also, isn't it designed to clean the oil ring, not the top end? I dunno, anyway, thanks for the video

Thanks for the video. I don't have Sub, but there will be many looking for pics of this front. Your title doesn't help if they are looking. Just a suggestion if u can add hashtags or something to get more hits. Cheers!

$11k is insane!!!!

Making good progress, that thing was in pieces when I saw it on Wednesday. Keep making the great videos.

Oh my God can you be anymore depressing and can you take any longer to get to the point. Oh my God you sound so miserable....

It's the transmission fluid leaking from the transmission cooler inside the radiator. Pressure is not the only thing that will cause a leak. Heat (thermal expansion) is mostly the cause. Swap a new radiator and all should be fine.

The most useless video/tutorial I’ve seen in my entire life. From a mechanics prospective I’d say try to find another hobby cause tutorials ain’t it sir. Wasting peoples time only talking and yaping and swallowing with smacking lips is what got from this. 😩 hope the next tutorial is an actual one! Please don’t take it personally. That is my sincere truth.

Those lights are so shiny they look fake lol

Your Hyundai 1.8 didn't have the dreaded piston slap, I rebuilt one of them engines last year with 130,000 miles and Hyundai wouldn't replace the engine because the lady who owned it was the 4th owner had she been the 1st or 2nd owner they would've replaced it so I had the cylinders bored .020 and new rings bearings and the head was redone before the car came to me as another mechanic thought it was a lifter noise and put it back together but it still had the piston tick in the engine!!!!!

You have a miss and you know one of the coils is arching. Should you not fix that before changing plugs?

I still think the stuff is snake oil. I'm still going to use a high quality synthetic oil at regular 5,000 intervals.

So, is that your vehicle? Seems like a lot of work.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

look down the oil fill cap hole on top of the head for tiny checks, no need to remove the whole valve cover...

You need to run that oil for at least two standard intervals, e.g., 5000 miles, for best effect ( per Valvoline). I'd also recommend you run a PEA fuel system cleaner, e.g., Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus at each of those oil changes.

by minute two after the bait and switch title, I am still wondering what is the point? get to it bruh

I still haven’t seen anything from anyone that’s conclusive on this oil. Making vague comments like it’s cleaning and there are still only a few deposits left don’t tell us anything. The last oil could have done that cleaning. Heck it could have cleaner before. Sadly even a before and after aren’t going to do much good. Going 5k on oil. Pulling the cover and saying look how bad it looks then running new oil for 1 k will always net you something cleaner. That first 1 k is when it’s at its best. It’s like taking a before and after pic of a hair cut. Look it was messy and a week later it looks better than it did when I waited 4 weeks to cut it. Still waiting for a decent lab test. Same deposits same engines. Running this and another top brand oil and see what’s left after 3k

I am using this engine oil for the first time in my truck. I have about 1200 miles on the Valvoline Restore and Protect oil.

🤡

Those infrared temp guns come in handy!! I use mine all the time!! Even when I'm grilling,lol!! Chop sticks that's interesting!! Thanks my friend for the info!!

Happy Hacking, Buddy! 😅👍. At least you have the guts to share your hack jobs. 😆

This is the exact reason it always kills me when guys come on you tube with pristine garages and pristine tools and claim to be everyday mechanics. I feel they are just showboaters with tons of time on their hands.

What in the fuck was that smoke at 4:39 coming from the left side of the screen going towards the right was that smoke?

Man that is a beautiful box. Love the color combo.

Thanks for the tour. Just a suggestion if you say, you hate a tool such as your Snap on hose clamp pliers, tell us why are you don’t like them. My .02

I feel like the only reason the d17 gets so much hate is because it didn’t live up to the name. The previous generation d engines had a great reputation in the honda enthusiasts space and the d17 just didn’t compare to the former d16, it’s not necessarily a bad engine just underdelivered.

See u have ez red wrench box set hate those pure junk

I have oil in my coolant but no coolant in my oil. It started when I had an o-ring failure at the top of the engine where the air intake meets the engine. The 4 air intakes that meet the engine after the throttle body I believe caused this. I took it apart and replaced the o-rings. I just have to do a coolant flush now

What plier rack is that?

Nice setup!

Plier drawer is one most people need help with organization!! Love this kind of content!! Organization saves time which is money when you do it for a living!!

Talk to much 😴😴😴

Standard was look to drive when I was young!! Now I prefere automatics!! Unless its a high performance car!!!

We grew up on manuals back in the 1980s. Learned how to drive on a Rabbit Diesel. Probably the best standard to learn on, as it’s almost impossible to stall, a diesel rabbit standard.

No O ring required ?

Good info my friend!! Gravity bleed works well,takes a little while but don't need any special tools!! Should help some people! Take care my friend!!

One thing about the tools, you will always have them now, and the total cost of the repair is crazy cheap vs bringing it to a shop. Your way way ahead, and you have some extra tools to boot!

I just wished u could’ve got to the point a lot faster

As an apprentice with no money I have gone and purchased this box.

My Forester is a 2.0 DOHC FB20 but does not have a radiator attached for CVT, instead it has a separeted oil cooler (like a small rounded pan with four outlets, 2 for colant and 2 for transmission oil) it is at the right side of the engine bay. Besides doing a vacuum testing on that (which I'm doing today) I´d already done the other two suggestion you made (thanks for that BTW) and still getting the water mixing with the CVT oil. Later I will let you guys know the result about the vacuum test of the oil cooler pan component (my last hope). But before that I would like to let you know that I did a little bit different about the o-rings. Instead of completely remove the engine I found that removing the front wheel train from below was actually an easy way to access and remove the engine bottom panel to replace the o-rings.

yeah they gave me a blank steel key that hadnt been cut...so now i gotta go back to dealership to cut the @#$%^ key to try this method

bought the same on ebay.. 20 bucks, works great.

You don't need to add o-rings to a groove just under the keeper?

Commenting on the video for the algorithm

What a brilliant idea. I have a potential issue with my solenoid. How did you determine your solenoid was faulty?

Came out decent Happy!! I'd say that's a win!!! Take care!!l

Everyone lost their mind over a video of icon beating snap on in a wrench test,that snap on themselves used as a selling point for their non slip wrench. Everything is more expensive to just live,tools aside. People buy what they can afford. Just like politics these videos aren't going to change what the individual is living thru.

I believe I'm gonna start picking up some stuff from Wright pretty soon. Their prices are good for made in the USA tools, and they get nothing but high praise from everyone who uses them. I've got some Icon, and it's great stuff for the price. Just in my opinion, it's one of the best "middle of the road" quality brands out there right now. If I had the money, I'd probably have more tool truck brand stuff. But I'm very happy with what I have.

I got my start with Craftsman. When I went to work at the dealer I had access to the tool trucks. I had a mix of Snap-on, Mac, Matco and Craftsman. Some tools I preferred Snap-on. Some I preferred Mac and Matco. I put together a secondary set of tools for mobile mechanic and racetrack usage. It consists of Craftsman, Husky, Stanley, Duralast and other auto parts store tools. I turned out the same level of work regardless of the tool manufacturer. That secondary set has become my main set of tools. I don't work in the industry anymore so I don't have access to the tool trucks. Buy what you can afford to get started. As experience is gained, one will figure out where and when tool truck tools are needed or when mid tier will do the job.

“It’s in the hole!!!”