Відео

Welds look good, great progress

Torque is not 22Nm 16ft/lbs its 40-49 Nm 29-36ft/lbs!!!!!!

Nice work on the MX5. Best wishes.

How did you mount the washers under the car? You didn’t show that

Great work! 😁

Adding "miata" to the title would help a lot with getting more views

Good for you sticking with it! Those interior rails are called waist rails, m machine have them alot cheaper than the ridiculous heritage priced ones.

It's taking time, but you're making progress. You are not the only one having problems with motivation: if you have watched the Classic Mini Workshop videos you will know that the same applies there. Best wishes.

can you do a video on the engine mounts? that would be excellent!

This is going to turn out great! Good job, dropped a like for you :)

Good work 👍

Good stuff !

Keep up the good work

Another good step forward. Best wishes.

Looking good, making good progress.

😆 P R O M O S M

Good to see you back and making progress on the Mini. Best wishes for 2024.

Was hoping to see more angles of how it looked from the outside. If you have any I would love to see them

I've seen some videos where people haven't braced up at all . I'm doing a half floor replacement with inner and outer sill . Would bracing across the door be enough

Good stuff

Good to see you back at it. These projects are not quick projects.

Good to see you back. I hoped that you hadn't had problems that prevented you from working on the project. Best wishes.

Good progress, well done.

You have totally fucked up again.....

What a mess.

I think it will be nothing short of a miracle if all the panels look and fit properly, when the project is finalised??... to be perfectly honest I think you lack the knowledge and experience in mini body repair, there is a procedure to follow, I've never seen it done the way you do it.

It would have been easier to have fabricated a simple hydraulic jack press, they are easy enough to make !!.. beating the metal the way you do, not a good idea, your channel didn't shrink as you say, it was because of bad measurement.

The little air grinder looks to be a very useful tool. Can you say what it is and where you got it, or put a link in the description of your next video. All good progress: I think that it's very wise to check all fitments with the doors wherever possible. Best wishes.

Hope that you manage to get that rear quarter fitted well. If it isn't a Heritage part, do you know whether other restorers have found the panel satisfactory ?

nice experiment - keep up the good work sir

Fabulous effort. Really impressed how you thought your way through the various issues with creating the panel, getting the gaps right and creating a useable panel. Always so much more satisfacition when you do the entire job yourself. Well done...!

good job

Awesome video man

Nice work on the under-body patch. Enjoying the progress you're making.

Hey man does this pass MOT? Thinking of getting one myself

Great work, looks straight forward enough on the video, however I would imagine a lot of thinking went into how best to tackle this.

That worked alot better, not sure if you saw my comment on the last video? But you did a similar method. Some people would say this is too much hard work, but I think it's great you wanted to do it yourself and didn't just give up 👍

My guess on how to make this work. Don't fold the back edge, put only the two far left hand bolts in, then hammer the left flute. Then put in the bolts between 1st and 2nd flute, then hammer 2nd flute etc etc finally bend the rear edge. This way the metal can move left as it needs to to give the extra. You may also have to cut a slot a few mm wide between the top of the flute and the heal board which will.then close when forming the flute, you can weld and grind the small cuts at the end so you won't be able to see them.

Remove the bolts, clamp the edges "a bit", and try that? Too many bolts for the metal to move... IMO.

Create a bottom die that is identical to your top die. Cut something like pieces of wood to put underneath the metal in the slots of your hammer form to act as depth stops so you know when to stop hamming and don't go too far. Use an air hammer instead of a hammer. Even a cheap one is ok. I would cut a big portion of your steel tool off and then drill a hole and insert one of the air hammer tools in the hole (may have to cut off the tip of the air hammer tool/bit). Since you are using a steel tool instead of plastic you will need to do everything you can to minimize a rough surface finish. Make sure you file and chamfer "all" edges. I saw a couple that were still too sharp. I did a small hammer form with an air hammer and it still took a long time. I couldn't imagine trying one with a hammer. The slower and less aggressive you are making it will usually result in a nicer outcome

I was really curious what would the result be... let's cross the fingers for the second attempt!

Bom de reparo.

Don't throw it out, I sold my knackered one on ebay, someone bought it for either lining the back end up or grass tracking, can't remember. Great progress

Hi awesome vid, what specs are the wheels and tires?

Regarding the fronnt subframe that`s exactly what I did, but the other way around, when I built a Mini some years ago. It is so easy to do it that way, much better than dropping the engine in from above.

This look like an interesting job. Will follow closely

Keep at it, once you get front done you can start to see it coming together and gives you the motivation to get the rest done!

Good to see you back mate - your vids are a great help as I’m currently doing similar repairs to my own project! But like you, having to take a break at the mo due to some health problems. Keep the vids coming

Looking good.

Nice one Bee. Look forward to seeing her on the road.