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Hi. Thanks for watching. I assume you're referring to whether i drilled into the steel part of the tub? Yes you will have to. there is also locating studs that require holes drilled to help align the sides of the shutter. If you have any more questions, just ask. Thanks

I haven't had too many issues with Chinese tyres. I did have a set that were awful straight out of the box, they were a similar pattern to BFG K02. It was a shame as they were a very good looking tyre. I can't say that I have had any issues with any type of Sailun tyre. several sets on my cars, I even just had a set of road tyres fitted to my BMW X5 recently. I think you'll be happy

@robertboyd321 Thanks for watching. I do have a 3rd review video coming. I just have to redo a few parts. It's not far away. There's a simple answer to the writing being backwards 😂 I was using the front camera of my phone.

The Ford Ranger tailgate is already light as a feather due the built in spring assist (can't remember the proper name of it...). Just one of these struts is already very strong, and lowers the gate slowly. If there were two the gate would take 20-30 seconds to lower. Keep in mind this only assists in lowering the gate slowly... it does nothing to raise it.

yes, for sure. I will get around to an update vid at some stage. Subscribe and watch this space!

It's going well! i really should follow it up. it does everything that the big named brands do, and more, to be honest. i tow, 4wd and it does all that i need. The concept behind them is that they trick the ecu into thinking that the percentage of pedal input is higher/ heavier/ softer than it actually is. So, from my experience, i would say YES it would help reduce the lack of urge and responsiveness down low. There are so many settings to allow pretty precise pedal tuning to your liking. Do the 08's have a electronic throttle? I have no idea!? Thanks for watching

Yes and no... I think they could do with more side biters to give them a more aggressive look.

Hi. Ah yes.... I forgot that part. Yes they are M8. I just very sightly notched the bolt right near the base just to allow it to slide on the track. One may argue that the notch would weaken the bolt, BUT... I'm yet to have any problems, and I checked them religiously.

@@gtgarageaus oh awesome. I got m6 bolts, but they seem a little undersized

Hi. Thanks for watching, and good on you with building the trailer. It's certainly a rewarding project. I have a good mate who builds trailers for a living, and i bought the seal from him. However, i do know that (depending if you are in AUS) there is a company that i know who sells the stuff. It's called 'J Seal' and i know that Trailer Parts Direct sell it.

Hi, thanks for watching. It's not the roller lid itself that gets reinforced. It's the roller tracks on the sides. There are bolt in reinforcement kits already on the market at the moment. But i think they are a bit of a ripoff, plus I can make them myself for a fraction of the cost. So when i get a chance i'm just going to fabricate my own.

Hi, thanks for watching. Yes this kit was from Oz Canopies. Fts perfect and i'm very happy with it

Yes it's connected. I previously had a sports roll bar. So i just unplugged the loom and plugged in the replacement loom/ plug on the sailplane

@@gtgarageaus ok cool so I ve got a 2018 px3 xlt would there be a cable hidden or will I need too buy one

it'll have the plug/ loom tucked onto the side of the tub in the corner. Since most (if not all) PX 3 XLT's had tub roll bars from factory it should be a simple plug and play scenario

@@gtgarageaus thanks mate appreciate

Yes they do fit. I had a spare under the back on mine

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching. So far ive had the a/t and R/T and they both go really well. Really i only went the r/t as i needed a slightly more aggressive tread.

Hi, thanks for watching. I'll try my best to answer. The plastic part of the sailplane (capping) is bolted to the tub in several locations. That then bolts to the shutter, then the shutter edges have the groove that the rack bolts slide into. If that makes sense? I WOULD NOT rely on the factory mounting points to take the weight of anything too hefty on the rack though. The shutter definitely needs some fabricated supports underneath the in the tub to be able to take a lot of weight. These can be purchased pre made, but i'll just fabricate some myself.

@@gtgarageaus yeah, I have been told the same thing. I have however put 100kg or so on the tub rails when collecting firewood. That definitely exceeds the roller shutter weight rating from both Ford/Rhino Rack(25kg max) and Mountain Top (75 kg). I wish I could post a photo on here to better show the brackets I'm talking about. But they are the ones bolted to the underside on the roller shutter track and clearly visible when the roller shutter is open. There are 2 on each side that are about the same distance apart from a centreline taken vertically from the centre tie down point. I'm looking at brackets that bolt into the centre tie down point and then bolt onto the 2 brackets I mentioned, giving a 250KG weight limit on the roller shutter.

I just don't trust it at the moment on mine. Until i make the supports anyway. Its the dynamic load that im worried about. My rooftop tent is about 70kg, and that weight swaying around up high bothers me.

Hi thanks for watching! Oh they went perfectly fine on KI. Lot's of dirt roads where my family lives, but they went great. I didn't air them down at all as we go from pavement to dirt quite often. So they were at 40 psi, and they would skate on the marbly stones a little, but simply dropping the pressures a little would fix that. I did have the A/T previously (also rebranded as Rovelo Ridgetrack) and they too were great. A lot quieter due to the more condensed tread blocks. The bottom line for me is that there is more benefit to the bite of the R/T for the terrain that I often drive.

Hi. Thanks for watching, and also thanks for your insight into the MT's. I'm not a fan of tyre noise so there would be no way i'd run MT's for my (mostly) pavement driving. I have driven these in some muddy terrain in a family member's farm paddock and they go alright. They don't block up easily and hang in there and bite for quite a while. Worth trying out these RT's in my opinion

I'll do another video very soon mate. Started recording something just the other day, but ran out of time.

I do most of my weekly drive on pavement. I find them quite good. They certainly don't hum like a muddy, but there is a little more noise than a highway tyre. What they really need though is rotation very often. I was going to rotate them every 10k kms, but they probably really want rotating now at about 6k kms. I'll do another short review soon

Hi. Thanks for watching. I got the doors from Dunn and watson in QLD. They aren't fantastic- a bit flimsy, but they don't leak, they have opening windows, and they look neat. I could easily make doors myself, but i chose to buy instead. I think paying pull price is a HUGE rip off. Let me know if i can't help out any further. Good luck!

Yes, i stand corrected.... But they're not super effective being at basically toe level. I have a few 90's commodores that have large directable vents. That's what i'd consider as a proper "rear passenger vent". I have a baby daughter and on super hot days those tiny "vents' hardly did anything. Anyhow, they aren't a deal breaker.. I still loved the colorado

Glad it was helpful!

I just layered the front sheet over the roof sheet by about 30mm, used thick bead of UV stable adhesive/ sealant and banged in a row of wafer head self tapping screws which fix down into the framework

Thanks for that. I love doing it. One sheet covered the horizontal part of the roof. Then the angled "nose" is one piece with one bend in it. If you have any more questions just hit me up, i'm happy to help

Hi. Thanks for watching. I'm sure you can customise it however you'd like according to your draw bar. Theres lots of holes to allow it to be fitted to varying styles

@@gtgarageaus Thanks, I think U shape bracket would be better than the one supplied.

Probably, but this ones been on now for over a year and hasn't moved or been any trouble, so it does ok. My trailer isn't all too heavy anyway

@@gtgarageaus I park my trailer (4X7) on grass, not sure if this jockey will be easier to move it on grass?

Good question mate! The double wide wheel actually works really well to give more surface area to roll on loose surfaces. Where I park this van the surface is 20mm rubble. I can push the van around quite easily without it digging in

Hi, thanks for watching! Sorry for the slow reply, I've been away on holiday. Road noise? Well, I'll just say that I've had quite a few different A/T and R/T tyres. Some closer to mud tread that hummed quite a bit. I can't stand the humming! These hum very slightly on low speed braking but nothing intrusive. Highway speed they are fractionally louder than highway tyres. The sound doesn't bother me at all, I'm very happy. I'll do more reviews as the tyres age.

Thanks for watching. Yes it's certainly possible to shorten the height. In the video i have it set to the lowest height i believe. I eventually want mine to be shorter (lower) down also. From my observations you would just need to cut material off from the legs to allow the 90 deg (or 'shoulders' of the rack) to position down lower on the legs. Just about anything is possible with this from the looks of it, heaps of adjustibility.

Hi, thanks for watching. Do you mean the racks ability to carry load? I don't see it being an issue as once i cut the 130mm section out the remaining parts were fully welded back together. I'm 120kg and i can sit on top of the rack and rock it, without any issue. (The racks are rated at 100kg dynamic, 300kg static). There's actually a more critical point that lurks under the shutter which is much more important! If you're looking to put more than 100kg on the rack you need to make sure the shutter rails have adequate reinforcement. I occasionally put a Kings hardshell rtt on the rack (75kg) but only two thirds of that is bearing on the rack, the other 3rd rests on the roof bars. So the rack is not stressed at all IMO. I'll be doing another vid soon to follow up on my customisation as there has been quite a number of questions pop up about it.

Thanks. Easily accessible at bunnings, cheap and easy to use, and it works! If I had built the frame in bigger tube i'd probably use thicker foil board. But to be honest with you, this stuff works fine. The coldest we have camped in so far is just under 0 deg C. and in our big quilt we were very cosy. I also used another insulation product, Rhino Cell, that works well too

Yes i did. I got a bit carried away and finished everything off without recording, I just wanted to get it done!

@@gtgarageaus came up well. I have a dmax with a roller cover and will do the same. Cheers mate.

Thanks for watching. Yep really can't go wrong for the price and how seldom it will be used

Hi. Thanks for watching. I bought them off ebay, a full assembled "ready strut". I waited til there was a really good discount voucher available and pulled the trigger. The store is Caregg Superspares. I had a quick look for you and there doesn't seem to be anything available at the moment for PX3 ranger. There is a set though for PX 1-2.

@gee_tee_garage4x4 Ahh perfect mate. That's even better, I have a PX2. So I will have a look. Thanks for the reply. Keep up the videos they will help alot of people 👍

Yeah. I'm told there's a slight difference with PX3 struts, so look out for that one. No worries mate. I know it's very cliche... but i learned a lot from watching how to vids on here. Only takes a few mins to record something that may help people out, so why not hey! Thanks again

@gee_tee_garage4x4 that's exactly what I want to do also, just watch and learn. You can save yourself so much money. How you finding that suspension now? Much better for you?

It rides great for what it costs, can't complain, it's a ladder frame chassis on billy kart springs afterall. I've just recently wound them up 25mm higher to accomodate for the winch that's going in pretty soon. The good thing about the Rangers are that their seats are pretty comfy, so the choppyness of the suspension isn't such a big deal.

Hi, thanks for watching. I had a quick look online for you. Yes, they do make kits for PK!

Hi, thanks for looking. I got it off ebay. A company called Cane Toad Equipment

Works perfectly mate. Had it a few years now. Just make sure its disassembled and dry of moisture before packing away and it'll keep going. I had the Kings one and it worked for a few weeks. Packed it away once without drying it and the water corroded the water pump. Dead

Hi, thanks for sharing. Sorry to hear that you had a bad experiences, is the vehicle still ticking along well otherwise? I learned so much about dual cab utes from owning my Colorado. From all the testing I did in the couple years of ownership, I can share this... When they get lifted taller than 2", it's a combination of CV angle and the plunging of the CV (crushing) that causes premature wear to the CV. Definitely can be remedied by diffdrop and adjustment of lower control arms. Very easy to test by lifting the vehicle off the ground with suspension at full droop and spinning the wheels. I do miss my colorado, and i regret trading it a little

@@gtgarageaus Yeah still got it. Never going to sell it. It’s been around aus towing a 20f van and up and down the east coast and still Does everything great. Just that stupid lift that fukd up the front end pissed me off about TJM. I got 3 years warranty tho. Can’t wait to use it. I don’t think the new 4x4 ‘s are 40k better tho.

I agree. Most dual cabs certainly (IMO) are not worth over 40k. I just stepped into a Ranger as i got 40k trade for my Colorado. I chose a Ranger as I had driven my Fatherinlaw's '20 Wildtrak X quite a lot, and I loved how the Ranger felt and drove more 'car like' than the Colorado, so I then got one myself. Turns out the comfort and car like handing are the only parts i like haha. The Colorado was just that little bit nicer with everything else. Ah well...

@@gtgarageaushey mate, I really can’t decide between the 2018 ranger or Colorado, from your experience with both, which one would you buy? I personally like how the rangers look and the ease of finding exterior mods, but the Colorado seems to be more reliable based on reviews and has a nice dash and interior, keen to hear your thoughts though, very much appreciated!

@@commandmo5173 Hi. thanks for watching! Now that i have owned both, I feel that I could give a very informed opinion on it. As always... Yes they both have their pros and cons. Major ones for me: Pros- Colorado: Looks really tough, comes alive after a dyno tune, very reliable mechanically (mine was manual btw), infotainment was slightly better than ranger, great for towing and moderate 4wding. Pros- Ranger: Drives like a sedan quiet/ comfy, Still looks great, easy to get parts, so good for towing and moderate/ tougher 4wding, great traction control. Cons- Colorado: uncomfortable seats (rest of interior was great though), no radar cruise, helical LSD isn't appropriate for 4wing that lifts wheels. Cons- Ranger: Not 100% neccessary, but needs lots of preventative mods for mechanical piece of mind, transmission gets confused easily, infotainment system is glitchy and plays up, very lazy lopey performance even after a tune... some people like this, but i thought it would do better. I liked the Colorado... just... a little bit more than the Ranger Just to reiterate... These are my opinions.

I didn't necessarily care too much about numbers. I had it tuned, and to be honest i can't even remember what it made. I just did it so that it would drive a bit nicer, and that it did.

Hi there, and thanks for leaving a comment! I had these tyres on my Holden Colorado for quite a while. I sold my Colorado with them on there about 5 or so months ago and i think they were at about the 30k km mark. Mostly tarmac but also did quite a bit of aired down off roading. I have no doubt that if looked after/ aligned/ balanced etc they could do 100k kms, which is wild as the starting tread depth is shallow. I initially didn't expect them to do this mileage. Would I get them again? yes. They are excellent value for money. I did a couple more review vids about them on my channel more recently. Hop on there and have a look. Cheers

...And so it should be better! We're talking a 2022+ dual cab, as opposed to a 2017. I honestly don't think they (colorado) are a bad thing. Mine was fantastic and very reliable, plenty of power. It was just time to upgrade whilst it still had value. Funny enough though I have gone into a 21.75 PX3 ranger and it's NOT miles better than the colorado for an end of model. Whilst a V6 ranger is arguably a good thing, i'm not prepared to pay the $85ish asking price that they command and I also don't like the look of the front ends, each to their own though. I take it you have a v6 ranger now?

Only trouble is it’s a Ford, with an upgraded old V6 … See how ya feel in 5-6 years with it

We have two v6 raptors in my family and both have already had issues. I had high hopes for them but for 100k they are buckets of shit. Literally triple the price of a Colorado and both haven't made it 10 000km without recalls and dramas

Sorry for the delay in response. It's all installed and working perfectly. I have read quite a lot of bad feedback about the company, but i have no had any issues myself! I have purchased two batteries from this company and that have both been excellent. No negative feedback from me

Yeah noice one mate. How'd the inverter go on it.... thats wat I'd be interested in?

The build in inverter is ok.... In hindsight, I should have just added my own inverter rather than the built in one. the 1200w built in is fine for battery charging, evap a/c, lights. But struggles a bit with more power hungry stuff. I tested a toasty press that was about 700w and it was dragging the battery down pretty hard. In conclusion, down the track I MAY install my own larger inverter (1500-2000) just so theres a bit more headway. But for now it does what i need it to do.

Sorry for the delay in response.. The winch has been pretty good... has hauled my ute out of bogs a few times no problem. Even did a big pull with my ute and caravan on the back (approx 3.5t combined). Faults so far: 1. the free spool lever is a bit temperamental, gets a bit stuck and needs lubrication. 2. The wireless plug on the winch end is also temperamental, at times can work intermittently. I only fully trust it when you actually plug the cable in. I still think its a good value winch. Mechanically... no issues

It's pretty good value for money. I just waited for a sale and I ended up getting it very cheap. Everything works perfectly a few years down the track