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@@BigAgitator thanks, the rental guys said they would be damn surprised if we actually used the 8 running hours allotted on the machine. Even with the dull knives it only took 6 hours of run time to get through all of that material.

@@swurvin_Cam we bought a pack of ripper teeth (box blade teeth). And then the main column is a square steel tube with channels cut out for the teeth. Then it uses some nuts welded to either side of the channel to hold the pin for each tooth. The top of the channel has a standard cat 1 adapter welded on. If you’re looking for more specifics I can get some measurements and pics this weekend.

The deck is designed for quick removal, it takes 30 seconds to drop it for more workspace so why wouldn't I?

@@MOQ09 haven’t had any issues yet

100%, the previous owner put this thing through some tough love. Dude was like "it pull starts great, needs battery." It has had some issues but I got it pretty cheap

@@Adventurefamily007 this one was $420 for the day rental

Thanks for watching, we got ours from the Nashville location but have had great experiences with Coleman

Really hard to quantify it in that regard as the density of brush/trees varies greatly. Most of these trees were from track expansion which is typically about 20-30' wide vs a more rectangular area where I could better estimate the land they came from. But a vague guess probably ~1/4 - 1/2 acre.

I'll check the OEM sticker this weekend but I am pretty sure its an 03

@@BrollBrothersProductions they changed the plastics in 04 or 05... You have the newer plastics... The 03 doesn't have that little compartment up on the top by the gas tank... I have an 03, and had an 05 as well...

@loansharky I checked today and you are correct, mine is an 05. I wish I could update the audio but doesn't change much. Thanks for pointing it out!

Glad it was helpful.

​@BrollBrothersProductions was yours hard to get off the right side I have a ltx1050 and there's a rod in the way of the pulley and if I switch the holes do I have to adjust the front too for leveling. Thanks for the video

@@brandybecker5131 yes it was I have mine level now but not able to lift it high. Good for a pinch

That would be ideal but currently we use the hose.

@@BrollBrothersProductionsgotcha I’m looking at building one and using the pump to fill it up with the creek near by

normally I wear a BMX helmet for pitbikes but when doing a little test I wasn't gonna sweat it

Does seem low

Thank you

Sounds like a good plan! These things move some serious chips, I would definitely recommend one of these instead of a pto chipper. The hydraulic rollers make it easy to run solo.

@landonheadrick1775 Fresh reply, I cannot seem to find that cable anywhere on the micro fiche. The handlebar cable I initially referenced does not go to the switch so I would trace that cable hack to wherever it is connected and then scower that part of the pars diagram. If I find it i'll let you know

Hopefully so?! If you want track building content this is the place

Glad we could help.

Bought from a random guy on marketplace who deals in large tires, not sure if they were seconds or what but way cheaper then buying new from a store. But as we found out they had some pinholes.

@BrollBrothersProductions what size where they? I need to buy 16.9 for my old kohering, I wonder how much Chinese tires are?

@@embededfabrication4482 The internet says 19.5Lx24 but for some reason i'm thinking they were 19.5Lx28. I would check what your current tires say to be sure. I think we paid like $600 for the set, just make sure the new tires are equal ply rating or better (8ply, 12ply etc.).

Not sure but it was metric

Wider track means more dirt to move, and more maintenance, more rocks to pick. Basically more everything haha. Building a track is a ton of work without giant machines.

until you commented this I never realized it was missing a wheel... Mine cuts amazing so i wouldn't sweat it

update to the below, I cut my lawn today and did notice some low spots when turning and on uneven terrain. I am gonna fabricate a mount, weld it on and add a wheel. I'll make a video but it will be awhile. Thanks for pointing it out

Agreed the design could certainly be better for maintenance but glad we could help.

check 04:17 we connect to the bottom manifold and run a hose upwards to the control valves

I would google your specific year/model or search manualslib and find a service manual. That will have a wiring diagram and should help you.

@@BrollBrothersProductions I can’t read them to blury

Did you just add regular motor oil in?

@@nathangriffin7354 yeah just check it and top it off as usual.

@@BrollBrothersProductions I figured it out I had it right to begin with I just had a bad rectifier and then forgot kill switch was on. Idk why oil was brought up though lol

What component of washer fluid is corrosive? We specifically chose it for price and being non-corrosive. We are absolutely not tire guys, but based on available information it seems like a suitable choice of fluid. www.yanmartractor.com/resources/tractor-tips/liquid-ballast/

Amazing when a “tire guy” feels the need to be condescending to those of us without a PhD in the ancient field of tire study. Get over yourself pal.

My local dealer said they charge $180/hr with a minimum 2hr job to fill both rear tires.. so $360 and they only use water, where i live it freezes below 20 degrees maybe 3-4 times a year in the winter months so 100% water is a no go for me as i keep my tractor under a lean to at the moment and $360 for 2 tires to be filled is way to steep. Sorry “TiRe GuY”

@@BrollBrothersProductions Did you not read the label? Last I knew it literally says corrosive somewhere on the label. It's been years since I've looked but I highly doubt it would have changed any. I do know for a fact that concentrated washer fluid is listed as a corrosive as it's accompanied by a full MSDS and is considered hazardous freight when shipping. In it's diluted form the feds may no longer consider it corrosive but that's in a normal application where it's in a plastic container, not in contact with a metal rim or rubber.

@@BittyVids Being condescending and being truthful are two different things, I suggest you learn that. Feel free to not listen to a professional, guaranteed you've been in that position before and had to call someone else to fix your ignorance.

Ours came off really easy. A few questions: Have you soaked the shaft with PB blaster? Is your gear puller slipping off as you tighten? I have seen some people remove them by beating on em, have you tried a sledge hammer with a block of wood in between?

@@BrollBrothersProductions I have soaked it with Liquid Wrench. I can buy some PB blaster if you think that is better. The gear puller is staying put. I tried tightening the puller with an electric impact wrench and nothing. I am worried I will damage the bearing because I am not sure if the hub is putting pressure on the inner collar of the bearing or only the outer collar. Thanks for your reply!

Happy to help. I think liquid wrench is as good as PB blaster so that shouldn't do anything better. The hub is quite thick so I would think the pressure would be evenly distributed. Depending on the size of your impact I could see it not having enough power, my cordless tiny impact couldn't spin it until the end. I would try a good size ratchet and see if that can get it to move. If it seems like that isn't going to work the next thing I would do is add some heat. Torch the hub for a little but and try again

Were you able to ever get your hub off? We are doing this exact thing today and running into the same problem of it won’t budge with the gear puller. Looking for any tricks that might help the process.

@@sschneider2259 use some heat on the gear , then draw the heat out of theshaft immediately while staurating with motor oil-not penetraing oil--too thin it will boil off. rinse and repeat a few times then go after it withe gear puller with some more heating of the gear, trying not to heat the shaft.

I have no idea as mine doesn’t work I don’t think, I’ve never used it or tried. I’m sure if you put a post up on heavy equipment forum someone will point you in the right direction

Luckily we haven’t had any tranny problems yet. When you say it won’t shift do you mean the gear selector or the power shuttle forward reverse? If it’s the switch on the steering column I would check the connections that’s a purely electric toggle switch.

@@BrollBrothersProductions yeah it's on the steering column, seems to just not want to get out of neutral but if I'm honest I have no idea what I'm doing in general with it, my neighbor let me have the backhoe and I'm trying to figure it out as I go. I can "trick" it to get into forwards by up-shifting at the same time as putting it into forwards gear but no luck outside of that. The parking brake indicator light is also stuck on which I think might also be at fault of not letting it out of neutral

@@amoniable the parking break is gone on mine lol. If you look up the manual you can get a wiring diagram, if I recall the forward reverse switch goes through the console and plugs into the transmission. If that plugs looks okay you might just need a new switch, not sure if that is replaceable or comes with the stalk. If you don’t have the manuals drop me your email and I’ll send you a copy. I think messicks (online store) has the microfiche/parts diagrams to look up replacement parts. I would also throw a post up on heavy equipment forum there are some knowledgeable and helpful folks over there.

Thank you