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Very true - I hadn't thought of them like that - A Merlin engine could possibly be the ultimate bass line!

Indeed! Thanks for that, although I have a feeling it was touch the face of God!🙂

@@TimHighamFlightSim no, I don't like the sound of that... sounds icky

Thanks for that, yes you're right, and indeed there's probably only a small percentage who would want to build something approaching a 'real' flight sim cockpit. The raw materials are probably not that much as far as cost goes, just takes a massive amount of time!

Thanks!!

Yes it probably does - As far as I can remember this version of Spitfire only had 2 mixture settings so I was keeping it faithful to the original. Maybe I'll do a fully variable version next time...

Think I probably filmed this at 150 frames per second - it does almost look like walking speed!🤓

Thanks!!!

Hi - no, there are no jerky movements going through the centre. I haven't designed any specific centre notch in the middle of the travel, and both pots (X and Y axis) measure continuously from full throw one end to full throw at the other end with no change or bias either mechanically or electrically in between. Hope that helps - thanks for watching!

Thank you very much!

Many thanks!

Hey Khafen, that's great - sure, I'm at: tim at higrig dot co dot uk - thanks

Yes you're right, it's not using much of the travel round the magnet, and I have experimented with using potentiometers too, but again the same problem with only using a small portion of the potentiometer track. Short track potentiometers requiring only 30-40 degrees of rotation seem to be rather expensive. However, in X Plane you can trim the sensitivity so only a small amount of travel produces a full range of joystick movement - not ideal, but it works!

The Wangulator is purely analogue - just control voltages and triggers. We may do a MIDI version in the future but this won't be for a while... Glad you like it - Thanks!!

@@TimHighamFlightSim cool super interesting I think midi would be something interesting to do in future 😀

Great - thanks a lot, glad you found them useful. Yes, the Leo Bodnar unit certainly saves a whole load of bother!!

With an Arduino - probably yes. I didn't use an Arduino, but depending on which one you have there are several analogue inputs. With the Leo Bodnar unit I used, yes up to 8 throttles if you want!

Thanks very much indeed! I haven't even got a 3D printer (yet!) so it had to be metal. And have been researching all sorts of WWI designs - plenty of natural wood and brass bits there of course. I do have a couple of other designs in my other videos so check those out for some alternative ideas - thanks very much for your comments.

No, none at all! The Leo Bodnar unit I use to sense the movement of the joystick, plus any buttons, plugs straight into your USB and works with your flight sim. Just need to calibrate it, but no code needed - thanks for the comment.

I bought one yesterday, quess it is passing Denmark about now. I can wait to start my build. I am aiming for a spitfire replica with one joint in the base and one half way up as the real thing.

I'm using hall effect sensors - these ones from Leo Bodnar (link above) although you can get them from loads of electronics suppliers. Have been experimenting with potentiometers which also work well. Thanks a lot for watching!

Hi James - It's the same Leo Bodnar board, but no HE sensors, I used potentiometers this time. There is one potentiometer on each of the Airscrew and Throttle controls, and then the Mixture/Cut Off (back) lever just has 2 microswitches to give an on/off configuration (used for certain models of Merlin engine I believe). Hope that helps! I must get around to making a video on the inside workings of the unit...

@@TimHighamFlightSim That's great, Thanks :) I have a bbi32 waiting for my cockpit build. It's only in planning stage at the moment, but I've been looking at making my own throttle as there is only one commercial model available for the F-14. I might do a vlog so I'll let you know if I do. Keep up the good work! :)

It does work!! (For testing purposes only!!!) lol

Thanks a lot - Has taken quite a bit of experimenting but does work pretty well

X Plane 11 - thanks for watching!

Hi - The potentiometer doesn't use the full length of the track; probably only about a third of it. I just calibrated it within X plane to give max values within the software for the 2 limits of (rather short) travel on the potentiometer. Not ideal, but it works!

Thanks very much!!

I have done a version of a throttle if you check out my channel - one Spitfire one, and one (not very realistic!) one attached straight to the control column - thanks for watching

Thanks! Yes sometimes it's easier just to bang something out of a piece of metal rather than spend hours programming some CAD software for your CNC or 3D printer!!

Great, thanks! Look forward to seeing it!!

Thanks for your comments - Yes it is all a bit tricky and down to a lot of experimentation. I'll let you know in the future if I'm able to offer some ready made parts which will make things easier for anyone building at home, as yes a certain amount of tools and space is required! I have constructed nearly everything from metal, but of course that doesn't stop anyone adapting things to parts made from wood, or plastic with 3D printing. The base could certainly be made from wood, but of course needs weighting down or bolting down to the floor. I'll let you know if I come up with any ready built components in the future... Good luck with your project!

@@TimHighamFlightSim thanks a lot

Will check it out - thanks!

Thanks - sure no problem. Have a look at the video from 1.56 to 2.06 - The circular magnets are the outer more silvery rings (they go around the 10mm steel shaft). The diametrically magnetised ring magnets I used have for example North pole at the top (where the black pen mark is) and South pole at the bottom (although in practice here I probably swivelled them around so the top was not necessarily North). Magnet details are here www.first4magnets.com/circular-ring-c37/20mm-o-d-x-10mm-i-d-x-5mm-thick-n42-neodymium-magnet-3-2kg-pull-p3842#ps_0_4030|ps_1_3098 (You can also get ring magnets with a different magnetic configuration but you don't want those for this application). I am also experimenting with potentiometers connected to the shaft instead of magnets and hall effect sensors; this works too as the Leo Bodnar unit will work with either. Hope that helps!

@@TimHighamFlightSim Thx for the quick reply. Yes that definitely helped!

@@TimHighamFlightSim I wonder if salvaged hard disk magnets would work - they're also diametrically polarised, i.e. each of the two faces has a N-pole at one end and a S-pole at the other. Must try that out.

Hi - I don't use any special software - The Leo Bodnar board has all its own software built in to just plug and play, straight into X Plane, or whichever flightsim software you prefer. Hope that helps - thanks for watching! (I used this board - www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=204 )

@@TimHighamFlightSim thanks

Of course, if it can be detected by windows as a game controller it can be used in game

@@cc-hl9yo nice tks

You could use a nice piece of MDF wood from Lowes/Home Depot since it looks nice and low profile and holds its sturdiness well. I suggest 1/2 inch (roughly 12mm) thick. Or you could also use cheap plywood to make a tray for forming a concrete square so that it will weigh down the base nicely. You could then use adhesive to put the MDF wood on top of the concrete so that you can drill holes easily. There are lots of tutorials on youtube on how to do that. But I suggest just using a thick slab of wood. You don't have to use MDF but I just personally like it for mechanical applications. You could even use a sheet of acrylic as long as it's large and thick enough to stay steady. They sell all kinds of sizes on Ebay at decent prices (better than retail prices).

@@johngober4088 Yes good point John - A nice thick slab of wood would be good (MDF, or even a nice piece of oak with some varnish to make it look more authentic!) - Doesn't have to be metal, although if you do use metal there are some places online that will cut pieces to order, which is a great help as I don't find cutting metal that fun...

Old is good (!) - It seems there are so many Boeing/Airbus type controls out there but not so many accessories for 'real old stuff', and I like to make things out of metal to give them a more realistic feel, rather than plastic or 3D printing. Thanks!

@Tim Higham Sadly I only have access to 3d printing and no ability to weld or cut metal. Been trying to get together a mig 21 v3 flight stick for dcs... not fun. Anyway wish you luck everything looks amazing.