Відео

Glad it helped!

More to come!

@@islandtrooper4x432 awesome 😎

Yes, I have OEM stock. Can send what you need. Please call

Rollin with the punches PJ, hope your doing well also 👍

It will work, but can react with the aluminum. shake quick, dump and rinse, you need to shake the rad vigorously and rinse several times after to get the drano residue off the plastic. Also don't use red coolant. Dexcool eats its own systems.

is there any (other) inner seal that could be leaking from inside (where the shaft is)?

Hi bud I need to do a new video a little bit more thorough on that one for other people that was mainly for one guys question but the situation is is that there is two seals on the 4z 81 Distributors one is internal and one is external the O-ring that you see everybody asking about the other problem is is that there are some casting problems on a bunch of the heads and it's not a big deal but there's generally a little flaw right above the Distributors where they're mounted and that flaw is where aluminum did not get cast into the head and it creates an opening where oil can escape so what you can do is just get some RTV and some brake cleaner you throw a little brake cleaner to get rid of the oil and clean the surface and then throw a little dab of our TV on that spot it's right on the top of the distributor where where the distributor shaft goes into the head right at that top part where the head is there can be a little break so once you get that done you may not have the leak down onto your transmission body on the bellhousing where it likes to go. The internal seal is widely available and can be ordered off of RockAuto but it does involve you pulling apart the distributor

Hey bud, sorry I didn't get your question sooner. So sometimes I can't tell the whole story because some people will replace a clutch without replacing the pilot bearing or the throwout bearing we don't know what kind of condition the shift Fork was in but presume that all is good and now you have the hydraulic system the fluid can only Escape in one of a few ways. The fluid can escape from a seal leak inside the clutch slave master cylinder they will go 20 to 25 years reliably but it's not a bad idea at this stage to replace it or rebuild it kits are available on RockAuto. The other way the fluid can escape is through the hose or the lines or a connection as you mentioned but don't forget there is also a proportioning valve on your fender that proportioning valve will also bleed it has a bleeder nipple and Air in the system will cause your pedal to fall to the floor absolutely it's hydraulic so you need to bleed all of that air out and have a sealed system the other place it can leak is into your slave cylinder and of course you know you may actually be able to put some cardboard underneath your vehicle and pump the clutch pedal a bunch of times after you fill the the reservoir. And then the cardboard may show you where the leak is coming from on a you know on a dry day. So yeah don't be afraid to replace your slave they're generally quite cheap like 30 bucks also on RockAuto and test your bleeder nipple on your slave make sure you do a good bleed I have seen remanufactured defective units the bleeder nipple leaks when you've got it closed tight take it back to the store and get a different one. If you want a clutch recommendation I don't know you could try and check out Center Force I use the Dual friction clutches on the forzetti ones and they're amazing clutches.

Yes I did pull the cover. I am overdue to create a follow-up video for that it is actually a belt drive but what a beautiful little mechanical diesel super efficient. Speed Demon or a horsepower Rockstar

Hey bud thanks for the comment for sure you got a Pacesetter for in one header that does not have an 02 bung already on it? That's kind of weird all mine come with the Buns already attached yeah you're if you don't have one but you have the bun you're going to have to cut a hole and weld it in be on the 4th last pipe towards the the firewall. The EGR tube should also have a bun from the factory so maybe you've got the wrong header I'm not sure if you got the 2.6 l?

Also the EGR tube can be a real challenge to remove or install on the bottom of the eye tech common chamber so use a lot of patience and some penetrating lubricant and sometimes heating up the area of the common chamber around the tube fitting with heat will help I think that's a 22 mil wrench.

@@islandtrooper4x432 yea I picked up the header used but never installed minus that extra piece of pipe. its definitely for the 2.6l has a metal tag attached on one of the tubes. Kinda sux It has the location for the 2 bungs to be installed marked with a boss I guess for the lack of a better term. Probably never installed because hafta weld 2 bungs onto it. What angle is the o2 sensor supposed to be? I've left it and been wrenching on my 442 project instead. Thx

@@Hyderize ua-cam.com/video/reFdixcJjsA/v-deo.html The bungs come off the tubes in a straight 90° angle. check this link to another video for a visual. If the loctions are marked your just a couple of cuts and welds away from making the best improvement for a 4ZE1. 🤟 good luck

@@Hyderize Also, a helpful tool to use on the egr tube removal & installation from the ITEC common chamber is a crows foot wrench. 3/4" or 19mm if my memory is on it.

Sorry to hear that yeah no worries I'm glad you did join in and as far as the energy suspension bushings go no I I mean providing that your Springs are in good shape I usually lend up cleaning out the inside of the eyelet the inner diameter and the fittings are you know the bushings of course there's two different types right for your forward and your rear eyelets depending on the condition of your shackles I do use aftermarket shackles so but they're they're always a tight fit for me but yeah I have discarded some Springs because they're old and tired and and so yeah that energy if you got the right energy kit those should be the ones.

Bud, I just found your comment. 4ZE1 will be just a hair under 4L. Depending on where you live. I can send a used OEM dipstick. if that can't be found locally. shoot an e-mail

That's why this channel is dedicated to Isuzu 1st gen Troopers, thats also a reason for you to go find an old vehicle to rescue and dump your plastic/tin car

@@islandtrooper4x432 Actually I used 2 Motomedic HD deep flush for aluminum and it worked excellent But I got good advice from here. thanks.

Which eye? the rear leaf spring eye? I'm not understanding your issue, but if your bushing is seized to your rear shackles, with caution around the fuel tank, you could burn the bushings out. Keep an extinguisher near by or ask a mechanic for help.

@@islandtrooper4x432 i meant the "eye" of the leave spring so you can work freely on it.

@@RK-nl1hn you want to remove the leaf spring pack from the vehicle? ok

@@islandtrooper4x432 no i want to remove the bushings without removing the pack

@@RK-nl1hn does this video not show enough?

Totally bro

If you have no reason to believe the core to be plugged or full of scale, then just use a bottle of Prestone radiator/coolant flush. I do not recommend flushing your whole system with my recommendation. Thats NOT what I am doing in this video, but your the 3rd guy to ask anyway. goodluck, stay cool

I hope so, i work on 4ZE1 engines almost exclusively, unless its a job for my employers. I never got a membership card in the mail though. Did you need something?

Hi Geoff, it is the mighty 4ZE1 2.6L. Call if you want in BC Canada...... 1 236 594-9897 or hit me up via gmail itm4x4@gmail.com