Відео

you re hard at work and doing good tests. Have you ever done a test with just one tube and a normal shop vac? blijft fantastisch om het te volgen.

Interesting so you're messing with adding an electrostatic precipitator to catch the fines?

what a mess....

Can't wait for the next update! Have the Oneida in two sizes and very happy with them. Really want to try the centrifugal setup though!

Hi, This is sarah.Your content is quite a match with our brand's service and application scene. I would like to invite you to experience our 3DPrinting service and test our materials. May I ask about your interests?

Hi I like what you have done. I'm looking for ideas on catching the fine particuls I'm working in a car body shop and the dust from sanding filler etc is similar to flower.

Dets a verrie nais filmpie from joe

Creio que você modifica a direção das hélice, evitando que a poeira fique muito tempo circulando dentro do tubo,

How quickly are you feeding the dust in? It would be interesting to see if there was any difference with a slower feed similar to what you’d actually get when using a tool that produces such fine dust.

are you satisfied with the result？I think that's close to the edge, the motor is well protected, and the filter is also nearly clean, I just wondering if we can go any further

Could you test mdf sawdust? I have problems with it getting past my dust collector on the cnc.

How does it do with super fine particles? Like drywall dust or fine sanding dust?

@5:48 I watched this part 4 times. damn those drawers are smooth!

You are a lifesaver. (literally by stopping me from dying of lung disease). lol

Loving watching you work through the joys of capturing dust. Be careful though as that last 0.1% that you don't capture is the dust that is trying to kill you, the rest is just making a mess. Many who have fallen for the look of the Harvey don't look past the centrifugal part. That is the awesome looking but what is left also needs to be filtered, that is why Harvey have "HEPA filter 0.3 micron (Merv 17)" This is also called a HEPA 13 filter (not a MERV 13 which is nowhere near as good). So work at getting the most mass out of the airstream as possible - it makes it FAR easier for the "paper" filters. It also is far better for the fan motors if they have the air stream running through them for cooling. BUT for a safer work environment you then need to pass it through a proper sub micron (HEPA13/MERV17 or better) to get those little nasties out that way virtually nothing but are there in their billions (yes, literally billions). An easy way to see this is to look at the DustControl AirCube1200 - it has an air flow of 1000 m3/h which is about the same as the 3 motor CamVac. You can make your own with a prefilter (just to protect the final filter) and then a H13/M17 filter that can handle the ~1000 m3/h that is provided by a 250 or 315mm dia inline fan. FYI the claims by Record for the CamVac filters filter to 1 micron I am sure are correct, and it is also true that as more "stuff" collects the filtering becomes ever more complete. However, what you don't see is what amount of the 1 micron and sub 1 micron gets through the paper bags. If you don't filter to HEPA 13 level then the best thing to do is have the outlet going outside not into your workshop area. Making sure it is going somewhere were it will be dispersed - not sucked into the home heating system.... 😲 Vacuum/filters for industrial workplaces are now being rated based on the level of filtration and handling of the waste. You will see this on vacuums with L/M/H ratings Some more information from doctorvacuum - com - au HEPA filters are high-efficiency air filters that are commonly used in vacuum cleaners. The acronym HEPA stands for “high-efficiency particulate air.” These filters are designed to trap very small particles, such as dust, pollen, and pet dander, that other vacuum cleaners might not be able to capture. When a vacuum cleaner is equipped with a HEPA filter, it can effectively remove these small particles from the air, helping to improve air quality in your home and reduce allergy and asthma symptoms. Most vacuum cleaners only capture particles down to about 10 microns in size, but HEPA filters can trap particles as small as 0.3 microns! What Is The Difference Between L/M/H Class Vacuums? L-class vacuums are for removing dusts with workplace exposure standard >1mg/m3, commonly used in woodworking or general warehouse settings. M-class vacuums are for removing dusts with workplace exposure standard >=0.1mg/m3, commonly used for construction or wood dusts.(Edit: this is the level needed for MDF etc and basically requires a HEPA13 filter) H-class vacuums are for removing dusts with workplace exposure standard <0.1mg/m3, commonly used for construction, demolition and much more harmful dust particles. (Edit this is the level needed for asbestos etc) (Edit: the basic difference between a M & H class is that the filters can be removed without the operator coming into contact with them.)

I'm really loving your content man. Please keep up the good work! Thanks from the USA!

Great idea! Please make sure to also do a fine particle check before and after using both with the same filter. So it is a real comparison.

Would it be feasible to combine the two dust bins into a single one shared by both stages of both units?

Hi, beautiful looking and efficient ! I have just a question. you are using a professional vacuum with maybe a 100mm hose. Did you think you can resize the dust separator for fitting in 2 x 40mm acrylic hose for a domestic vacuum use like a karcher ?

It is not a dust separator, it is a sawdust separator.

Do you cut your tubing to 500 mm? I see that the PVC tubing is sold in 36 inch lengths, and was wondering if 500 mm is the ideal length for air movement, or if a longer or shorter piece would work just as well. Thanks!

very interesting. did the tests lead to revision ideas/plans? or are you happy with the performance? love this series and the channel :)

Hi, I love your System and How you Publish everything 👌 About the separation: I use a cyclonic system and that works for the fine dust of my CNC mill very well! Even the dust after planing mdf boards. Maybe it would work, that you put a Cyclone as a second stage after your system. That should reduce the over all air speed but increase the efficiency of separation small particles

Does having two avoid patent infringement or is the cyclonic design different compared to the original?

You should use bag filters for your vacuum motors. Those have HUGE filter area and don't throttle your air flow down. Small filters are bad in that respect.

Those numbers for sawdust and chips are pretty good! I wouldn't expect it to work well on the super fine stuff, but that's ok because that's what HEPA filters are for. Also, in practice I don't think it's going to be a big deal if super fine dust accumulates in the separator. It won't be able to build up enough to clog it and the bigger chips and dust will knock it loose over time.

How is dust so fascinating? Why do i have to watch all your videos with such interest? Its just dust . . .

​@CapturingDust I'm going to try and print this to fit the inlet of a harbor freight dust collector blower, but I'm going to put the motor assembly on rubber mounts and use other sound deadening techniques. If the design had low decibels, a larger bin for bigger chips, hepa filtration, a manometer, and a set of 4 swivel casters, I think this would be an upgrade.

Very cool project and love the way you take it seriously (measuring performance)! How are the 3D printed parts handling the abrasive wood chips?

I bought a Dust Deputy Low-Pro Deluxe and put it to heavy usage in the last few weeks. My findings about separation: Wood chips is 99% Sawdust is 98% Sanding dust is n/a Plaster dust is 75% The very fine particles are not separated efficiently for that specific dust separator.

Rather than the festool bins, you should look into large polycarbonate food prep containers as an affordable alternative.

I just got an idea. When camvac is on the same side of the lever as the scale sadly not only the load rating, but also the minimum value that can be measured becomes affected. So even an idea lever mechanism with +/-1g 5kg scale becomes the same as +/-5g 25kg scale in this configuration. If camvac was on one side of the pivot and counterweight on the other, no resolution would be lost. The scale's rating would have to cover just the expected weight difference. To prevent overloading the load could be transferred from the end of the beam to the scale via a spring and some sort of an end stop would prevent it from bottoming out. This way when in operation force proportional to the dust weight would be read by the scale. If load becomes too great, the spring will become compressed and the lever's end will rest on a physical stop. Then the only problem would be friction. Even linear rails have way too much of it for dust-weighting purpose because of preload and sticky grease inside. SKF's calculator is telling me that even a small 608 bearing (no shields) under the radial load of 300N will have 3,72N·mm of starting torque. That corresponds to 0,1g over a 3800mm-long lever. A hardened and polished steel rod on clean glass surface might pivot freely enough but will be less stable. A lever-based design is possible but cumbersome at that scale. So that got me thinking again. What if dust wasn't captured in the camvac? What if there was a lighter and smaller container with all the fine filters to capture dust between your separator and the vac? Then we have just 0.59 N·mm of starting torque under 100N radial load. With a skateboard bearing! This corresponds to 0,1g of sticktion over 60cm lever. With two times longer lever it would be possible to replace a scale with 1kg-rated tensometric beam and cheap-ish 24-bit ADC. Plenty of resolution to spare. At last, hose and clamps position might affect reading at this scale so removing them for readings might be necessary. I hope I haven't bored you with this wall of text :D I've just gotten myself a 3D-printer so hopefully I will be able to do some experiments on my own. If that happens I'll post the results in comments. Short version: Lighter container with filters to capture dust, steel bearings for pivot. Counterweight instead of a one-sided lever. No linear guiding. Hang it like a big vintage weighing scale.

This is my next project. Thanks for the awesome work you're doing.

Very interested to see your next project. Did you buy the camvac motors?

thank you for this testing video, which released my self-doubt, I built an MK2 PVC version here in China, I have to say it's friendly and cheaper to build it here, we use the same standards as Europ, and everything is easy to find, and shipping is fast. a 3D print farm helped me with most of the work, coast me about 100 US dollar, and ten days to collect all the stuff. But when I tried it on those fine dust, it was a total disaster, the sanding dust stays in the PVC tube, and it's hard to clean. 🤣 Thanks again. waiting for your next update.

Rctestflight has some very interesting videos on dust separators that have managed this problem

Great video!

Wish someone would make a attachment that separated bolts and screws but allowed saw dust and chips to pass into a different chamber

I love hearing about your methodology, conceptually and how you apply it into practice (and conflicts between them). Very enjoyable.

amazing work, tks a lot guy!!!

Good stuff! That triple motor extractor looks interesting I think you need to do a workshop tour too! Would love to see how you've maximised the space.

Also, I think the final stage of this design is less-than-optimal. Use the centrifugal force from a smaller diameter and a little twist to accelerate the fine particles to the outside tube, then have baffles with holes that swirl that airflow into a bucket/filter.

You could print some springs to match the vacuum weight then place the scale directly below it. You could also put the scale inside a baggie (to protect it from dust) and measure the weight of the cotton bag inside the vacuum. Lots of ways to skin this cat. I also want to caution viewers that atomized dust particles become explosive, so please be careful. I've personally seen a 36" duct full of sawdust explode into a ball of fire, 3 meters in front of my face. A sander hit a steel nail in the log, and caused the entire building to be evacuated. Seriously, be careful with atomized particles.

Have you messed with fluid separating using a centrifuge?

Flour is very "sticky", maybe another type of powder (talc) to at least test for a powder without a whole redesign, or my greatest villain, dog hair (my wife is a groomer) and no cyclone have worked yet. Great work BTW!

Great video

just use some locktite. Never comes lose. Spring washers are crappy.

Hi, i would not be percieved as the classic turbosafety opinionist, but i t think this time can be worth the risk. Please consider ATEX equipment due to the explosive properties of regular flour and fine milled sugars. In suspension with air they create very dangerous mix with air and can easily deflagrate, in a test like this the ducted channel adds detonation risk too, due to the confined space in which the mix is create. Thanks, by the way, for the interesting solutions you are making and sharing.

What happens if you supply dust ast more realistic rates? Like the 6kg/hour mentioned for your planer?

Well done! Curious about how much made it to the cloth and paper bag filters in the Camvac? Especially with the baking powder! Would putting hard tubing between the Camvac and the separator make any difference? I've used a thien baffle system myself for years, which isn't perfect but is good enough for my needs.