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Hello, the oil level is achieved by the following method: On the right-hand side of the engine, you have the oil drain plug at the bottom, above that is the level plug, and above that is the plug for access to the decompression cable connection. Once drained, you put oil in via the access point for the decompression access hole and fill until it starts coming out of the level hole. Remember to use automatic gearbox oil. There is no mention of the amount of oil in the repair manual, but its not a lot as it's only a small engine. Its probably only about 200ml

Hi Kevin, I'm affraid I'm not familiar with the Sachs 50 2 speed auto engine, but both the Sachs 502 and 504 auto gearbox oil levels are to the bottom of the filling hole, so I would imagine your Sachs 50 to be the same. I've seen on one forum a guy in the States saying he can get 3 oil changes out of a quart of ATF oil. Google tells me a quart is almost 950cc of oil, so it's possible there should be around 300cc of auto fluid. If you put around 300cc into what you think might be the filling/level hole that you mentioned and it starts running out a little, then that would probably be it. There's a pdf repair manual for a manual gearbox (so not really for you) Sachs 50 here: www.icenicam.org.uk/library/Sachs/50_(2-speed)_repair_manual_c1960.pdf You can purchase an automatic repair manual for 18 euros from: www.classicseller.com/i/102610/moped/sachs-saxonette-50-automatic-motor-repair-manual-workshop-manual No guarantee it shows the oil level though! Regards Steve..........

@@SJGPOOLMAN Thanks Steve for your remarkably quick response! It's not 2 speed but in fact the single gear auto clutch type that is featured in one of your excellent videos. Filling to the bottom of the filling hole would obviously mean the whole gearbox full of transmission oil oil if I understand you properly. Is this correct?

Hi Kevin, I'm confused as to what engine you have. You said it was the Sachs 50 - which there is one and what I was referring to - but you say it's the same engine in my video which is the Sachs 502/1A automatic. Anyway, well spotted about the oil level, I was a bit confused. No, you must not fill it until it comes out of the decompression cable access hole. In between the screw cover for the decompression cable and the drain plug, you'll see a flat head screw, that's the one you need to take out and when the oil level gets to that and starts draining out, then that's the correct level. You can fill it through the decompression access hole. Hope that helps Steve............

@@SJGPOOLMAN Hi Steve. Looks like my replies are being blocked. See if this one gets through!

@@user-yn2je3oy9w Hi Kevin, yes this one got through to me.

Hi, I think you mean the crankshaft nut, as they don’t have a camshaft. It’s a standard right-hand thread and if you have a cordless impact driver, it will easily undo it.

@@SJGPOOLMAN Thank you! indeed i meant crankshaft nut 😀 So left is loose in this case?

@@remkodehaan yes. Anti-clockwise is loose.

@@SJGPOOLMAN it wasn't so easy getting the nut loose, i made a special tool for it to anchor it to the base plate of clutch. But it worked ! After inspecting the clutch i found out that all 3 "claws" have been broken off where they should be fixated to the base plate. After searching the internet i couldn't find a replacement. Do you maybe have a adress where i can buy these? Thanks again for youre help !

@@remkodehaan Hi, like most parts for these, it is almost impossible to find genuine replacements. I had to source front brake linings by the measurements and located some on ebay. There are some for sale on www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/sachs-hercules-dkw-victoria-502-502-motor-kupllung/2562877354-306-7581 It is a good site for spare parts. I have purchased many parts from it and have always received the items. I located a pdf of the engine manual (in German) which may help you with the repairs. www.vkka.dk/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Sachs-reparationsvejledning.pdf

Hi Mario, sorry, but I've never had to remove a clutch on one of these. Perhaps a local garage could assist you. Regards Steve.

@@SJGPOOLMAN thank you very much! Best regards!

Hello Andreas, if you send me all the details, as they're written, on the engine I.D. plate, I should be able to give you details of the carburetor and where you may be able to get one from. There are a few different Bing carbs for these depending mainly on country. If you've seen new looking one's in my videos, I got them from eBay and they're only used for parts as the inlet diameter is the wrong size. As for the intake, I take it you mean the small tube that bolts onto the cylinder barrel and the carburetor slides on the other end? These are different diameters, depending on the carburetor, and usually not available. It would be fairly easy to make one though from a solid piece of aluminium which you can file down and drill the holes for the mounting.

​@@SJGPOOLMAN Thank you for trying to help me! On the plate it says: Fichtel & Sachs AG Mot nr :5909908, 47 cm3, 502/1A S. Yes the intake is the small tube. I have seen it in a store in germany, with inner diameter 12 mm. 50 mm long and specifically says it is made for this motor:

HI Andreas, I take it your in Germany? I found data sheets for these a few years ago which show all the details for these. See: www.newsachsmotor.de/bis_50_ccm/502/502.html According to the data, if it is a 502/1A and it was for the German market, it should have a Bing 1/12/182 carburetor. I have found one for sale on: www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-bing-vergaser-1-12/k0 This is a site I have purchased lots of items from in the past, including carburetors. I'm in the UK and I've always received my items. Good that you have found an inlet tube. Good luck

Thanks, No I´m from Sweden. Just easier to find spare parts in Germany. But is the Swedish version different from the German? @@SJGPOOLMAN

Ah, being in Sweden makes a difference according to the spec sheet.There's an error on the spec sheet because for Sweden it reads 502/1A p but should obviously be 502/1A S which is the same as on your engine I.D. plate - Therefore meaning the carburetor is a Bing 1/10/99 (A 1/10/100 is also fine) You'll probably locate one on the previously mentioned website - good luck

Hi Pedro, there isn't any engine oil in the engine as it is lubricated by the 2-Stroke oil that you add to the petrol in the fuel tank. Only automatic gearbox oil goes inside which is for lubricating the bearings and clutch plates of the transmission. I use normal, non-synthetic automatic transmission fluid (ATF) from my local motor factor.

@@SJGPOOLMAN what is the specification of valvoline? 85w90 api gl5?

@@pedroserra725 sorry, I'm not sure when it comes to oil specifications. I use cheap auto gearbox oil. Remember these are 40-50 year old engines/gearboxes, so any ATF oil, even the cheap ATF oils, are going to be better than oil back when these were new.

Hi, no there is not gasket between the cylinder head and cylinder bore.

Hi Pedro, you need to check the diameter of the piston to see if it is the original size 38mm, or if it has an oversized piston. If original, then you can get a 38mm piston with 10mm gudgeon pin (you should check this size is the same as well) from: www.puchshop.de which has plenty of size options. Or just search online for more local availability for you.

@@SJGPOOLMAN thank you very much, I will see what is the best option

Hi Ismail, try the following for engine parts: www.myronsmopeds.com/category/parts/sachs-parts/sachs-engine/ moped-ersatzteile.de/ victoria-oldtimer.de/webshop/Sachs-502-1A-1B Regards Steve

Hi R K, if the clutch is always engaged then the clutch plates and discs are either stuck together or because of incorrect adjustment. I would say drain the oil and remove the side plate (where the level plug is fitted) to see if there's anything obvious. If not, then I'd be removing and stripping the engine. Not difficult, plus you have my videos as a guide. Also, if you have spark and fuel, then could be incorrect ignition timing, low compression or block exhaust. Good luck, I'm sure sort it out.

@@SJGPOOLMAN ill check, 😂 hopefully it’ll be an easy fix

Hi, original size cylinders are available online. I don't think I have seen a larger cylinder, piston and head for one of these. I'll double check when I'm in front of my main computer as I have favorites saved to various sites for spare parts but I cannot remember at the moment. I'll get back to you on that.

@@SJGPOOLMAN thank u👍

Hi, I can't find any larger bore size cylinders but slightly larger size pistons are available which are probably for bored out cylinders. For original parts try www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/ or victoria-oldtimer.de/webshop/Sachs-502-1A-1B

Sorry, I'm not aware of a 2-speed auto 504. I have seen a few people mention this before with them showing a schematic of a 504 that actually shows a single speed, twist and go, auto

Hi, these engines are fairly simple to work on. If the crankshaft is already in the casing, and if you know what you're doing, you can have one together in 1 - 1.5 hours. Cost depends on what the charge is per hour. Trouble is, its the stripping, cleaning and preparation that takes the time before you even start to reassemble.

@@SJGPOOLMAN Ahh, thats positive! I got a case today, so looking if I can get it in running shape again! Any idea where to find more stuff about these? I also got a sachs 504/2a engine, never knew it existed till now,

@@FriendsWThoughts Parts are available on the internet. Mostly from mainland Europe though. Repair manual for 505 manual engine and schematic of 504 centrifugal auto clutch are online.

Hi, I take it compression is OK and engine is turning ok. I'd start by checking the spark plug to see if it's wet after trying to start it. If wet, then could be weak spark in which case check condition and gap on points and ignition timing. If dry, then recheck fuel is getting to carb and recheck carb itself. Also ensure the choke is working. Could also be blocked ports in the cylinder barrel or even blocked exhaust. I spent many a time back in my youth taking the head and cylinder off and scraping out the carbon from the ports at the side of the road.

@@SJGPOOLMAN sadly I get spark and fuel and compression,

Then it should start unless its not getting air or its blocked, or if its not sparking when the spark plug is fitted and under compression, in which case it would be wet. Have you checked timing as well?

@@SJGPOOLMAN checked timing, put was off, put it back and now i am trying to check if i can checkl if it has compression

Hi for transmission oil use automatic trans oil. I use Halford's (UK Store) own brand oil. It's usually red coloured. For 2-stroke oil, for pre-mix with the petrol, any one will do.

Had to look that up as I've not heard of Sparta Lucky before. Nice looking moped with a great engine.

@@SJGPOOLMAN thank you! I have one in white with blue, very nice in my opinion, only carburateur seems bit finniky since it likes to randomly stop on me.

@@FriendsWThoughts Hi, the carb is simple enough to remove, strip and clean. Hope that works with the cutting out.

@@SJGPOOLMAN thanks!

Hi John, only 2 o-rings that I know of and I can only see 2 in the engine schematic picture on myrons mopeds: www.myronsmopeds.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Sachs-502-1.jpg Steve

Hi John, if you need new seals, you can get them from: victoria-oldtimer.de/webshop/Tafel-1_13_s2 Steve...

Hi John, the drain, level and filler plugs are on the right side of the engine Changing transmission oil • Run engine to warm up the oil Draining • Removed the level plug and drain plug to allow oil to drain out • Allow oil to drain out • Tipping the bike over slightly to the right, will allow more oil to drain out • Refit drain plug Refilling • Remove the filler plug (this is also where you access the end of the de-compression cable) • Use automatic transmission fluid (ATF) - 1L bottles of ATF normally have an extending clear tube which can be inserted into the filler plug hole • When ATF starts to run out of the level plug hole - STOP • Leave for a few minutes to allow any excess to drain out of the level plug hole • Refit the level plug and filler plug

@@SJGPOOLMAN thank you! 😇

Hello! I put yesterday some AFT oil thru the upper oil cap ( where decompression cable ends) ,i start the engine, and runs fine for 10 sec,after that he start spilling oil out,thru the decompression cable outside entrance 😶.The question is: i have this moped since 1year ago,and was running fine.Couple days ago,i dissemble the engine and NO OIL on the clutch chamber or transmission chamber.How he can run for a year with no damage? ( And the person who sell the moped, i bet he runs too without oil ) 🤷🏻‍♂️

@@gutablondu Hi John, the oil coming out of the decompression cable hole is one of two things. Either there is too much oil, did you remove the level plug below the oil cap and stop when oil came out of the level plug? Or, there is a small round foam pad and washer that sits inside the hole where the cable entres into the engine to stop the oil escaping. They could be missing. I had that on one of my engines. As for why it would still drive with no damage, I'm guessing there was enough oil soaked into the clutch plates for it still to drive and the needle roller bearings in the transmission don't need a lot of oil to stay lubricated. Remember, low transmission oil will not affect the engine itself as it is lubricated by the 2 stroke oil mixed in with the fuel. I did a 502/1A engine rebuild for someone recently who told me it ran and drived ok and when I stipped it there was no transmission oil in it !

@@SJGPOOLMAN thank you for taking the time to answer me! it is appreciated that someone still repairs such mopeds but can give advice when needed to some beginners like me. God help and to have further growth in repairs 👏

Hi, sorry, I've only just seen this. Its the large screw that you remove to get to the other end of the decompression cable. About half way up on the right-hand side. Add auot fluid in there, the level is to the bottom of the hole. Steve.........

Hi Noel, it's just standard automatic transmission oil (ATF). I don't think its graded. There's no mention of grade in the handbook. I'm in the UK and just buy ATF in 0.5 ltr bottles from Halfords motor store.

You need to use automatic transmission oil. I get mine from Halfords (UK store). It should be red coloured.

Yes there’s automatic oil in the transmission but that won’t affect the spark. Sounds like the points need adjusting. Gap’s possibly too small and closing when it gets hot. Not 100% sure but that’s where I’d start looking.

Thanks for your comment. Oil change is very simple. Drain the oil then refill via the filler plug until oil is level with the bottom of the filler hole. Just remember to use automatic transmission oil. The engine itself is lubricated by the 2-stroke oil mixed with the petrol. If I remember, I'll video it the next time I change my oil and put it on here, but won't be for a while.

UssuLy it means ur running to rich or low, ( or idle screw seems to low)

Hello Jiri Hac, you can get a parts manual on CD from victoria-oldtimer.de/webshop/Ersatzteilliste-fuer-Motor-Sachs-502-1A-502-1B-Kopie For complete engine or spare engine parts search "sachs 502" on www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de - there is also a paper copy of the parts manual for sale on there at present - or try Austrian or German Ebay sites.

@@SJGPOOLMAN Thank you

Hi Cliff, parts are obtained from several different places and most come from mainland Europe - RBO Puch - Moped Spares.de - Puchshop.de - Moped Land (UK) - myrons mopeds myronsmopeds.com/category/parts/sachs-parts/sachs-engine/ - there are plenty of sources for parts, you just need to search the internet - I've got most of my parts from Puchshop.de - RBO and Ebay - good luck.

victoria-oldtimer.de/webshop/Sachs-502-1A-1B RBO Puch Mopedspares.de Puchshop.de Plus a few more if you search on internet

@@SJGPOOLMAN Thank you so much!!

@@leevipaakkonen1535 also see 50cc.eu

@@SJGPOOLMAN Thanks, i will!

Pretty sure the Original piston size is 38mm. If you need to replace yours, you should measure it in case it’s been re-bored as larger pistons are available if needed. Just search “piston Sachs 38mm” on Google

Hi Rhys, I’m in Bishop’s Stortford. Where are you? What model moped is it?

@@SJGPOOLMAN hi, I'm only in hoddesdon. I managed to buy a carnielli Moto graziella. It has the 502/1a X engine, it starts and runs, just need it seeing to as it will let the rest of the moped down after it's all been sorted.

I always think it's best to assume it's not had the best life and if I can get it cleaned up and running well then I've done my bit for it. Just need someone with more expertise than myself!

@@SJGPOOLMAN is there anyway I can get in contact with you? If you are happy to of course!

@@rhysfowler1425 Hi Rhys, happy to help but can't do anything at moment as I simply don't have the room for another project in my garage at present. Do you have an email I can contact you on?

Sachs were popular and reliable engines fitted in a few different mopeds.

Hi, I'm guessing you have no spark so check points condition is ok and set points gap to 0.35mm. Set timing by aligning the mark on the edge of the ignition base plate with the mark on the engine casing. Obviously check spark plug is correct/good. If still no spark then could be ignition coil. These don't usually overfuel due to carb issues. On Bing carbs, if too much fuel is going thru the carb then it's usually dirt in the float shut off valve but this causes fuel to piss out of the carb overflow, not into the inlet.

If it does actually start and run, then I'd start with the basics. Check for a good spark, check points gap and timing are correct, spark plug is correct and gap OK, check fuel is good. May need a carb clean.

@@SJGPOOLMAN Sounds good. Thanks. I had it running yesterday and found the adjustment screw on the carburetor and tried to tune it so it wouldn't stall out at stops and idle. Thought I had it ok but today can't get it to start at all. I'll look into the things you mentioned!

Sounds like something's seized. Just take your time and it should be fairly clear as to what the problem is. Good luck.

Could be the points screw is loose and allowed the points to move. I doubt the lobe has worn. The lobe is separate from the crankshaft. It slides over the shaft and there's a small keyway that it lines up with to keep it in the correct position

@@SJGPOOLMAN thank you! I'll check it out once I get the flywheel off to clean everything

@@SJGPOOLMAN got everything apart and it turns out you were right! Thanks for showing me how everything work, I'm back on the road thanks to you

@@camkenyon2055 glad to hear you're back up and running

That's a shame about the cylinder. You can still get engine parts for these from mainland Europe. Need to search on internet if you're going to repair

They're easy enough to remove, strip and rebuild. Check my other videos for that

@@SJGPOOLMAN im happy, that it is that easy, caus I had to reasamble this engine 7 Times. I´ve got Problems with allmoste everything, im glad that I found one who makes my clutch looks like new, caus the old pads were lose. Now it is running 30km/h and 15km/h uphill (its a 502/1b). And the engine sounds like an Diesel.

@@emilbauer3672 you have an B? Do you have to change gears manually then?

@@user-dt5iv5yi5b there are no gears.

@@emilbauer3672 there are gears 2, to be exact

150-200cc of Automatic gear oil. Check the oil level with the engine warm and moped on level ground. Remove the oil check plug in the left-hand cover and add oil until the oil begins to run out of the hole. The motor itself is lubricated by the 2 stoke oil mixed with the petrol

It uses normal automatic gearbox oil for the gearbox. Remember it’s a 2 stroke so the engine is actually lubricated by the pre-mixed 2 stroke oil in the fuel which should be mixed at a ratio of 25:1

ATF (Automatic Transmission OIL)

How much oil is the correct amount for this engine??