Tensioning a front disc wheel.
Hand-built wheels are better than machine-built wheels, because if they are properly built, they will not only be at higher and more equal tension, but they will also weaken the spoke the least amount. Wheel failures on low spoke wheels are almost always crack spoke holes.
I use a series of simple and clearly defined steps that are very simple. Anyone can build a high-quality hand-built wheel.
One key concept is to treat drive or disc side as a unit, and the non-disc or drive side aa a unit, there will be a dish and therefore each will be at a different tension
The first is to thread on nipples equally using either a specialty drill or a nifty tool I invented.
The second is to bring up the tension only until there is a minimal amount of tension,
Again, drive or disc side first and then non drive side.
Then you adjust the radial runout using a dial indicator. The dial indicator greatly magnifies the runout and makes it possible to achieve a well-defined spec. Radial runout is the key to equal spoke tension because the spokes come off of the hub radially. I get the radial runout to about .005” - all while under very low tension. After that point, I don’t touch it.
At that point I true the wheel without being concerned about centering the rim - I just want laterally true it. Dive or disc aside first followed non drive or disc side.
Next, I take the drive or disc side up to a target final tension. Most rim manufacturers have a maximum tension they give for their rims. After I tighten the drive side to the maximum, I don’t touch them again. I use dual internal washers on the drive side for additional strength.
Finally, I center the rim using only the non-drive side spokes and do the final touch up using only the non-drive side spokes. The reason for that is they are under lower tension so will damage the spoke holes the least.
Next, I squeeze the spokes. There is no need to overdo this and, in fact, if you do overdo it you can weaken the spoke holes. When you build a wheel, areas of the wheel can develop stress. The purpose of squeezing pairs of spokes is to take them over their yield point. It is not to “set” the spoke heads or nipples. Reducing the stress areas reduces fatigue and extends wheel life.
Finally, I use Loctite 242 by putting it on the spoke about the nipple land spinning the wheels to let it migrate onto the threads.
There is also a final check to make sure the rim is centered.