Відео

This is on R888Rs. I'm actually faster on RE71Rs, I find them more comfortable and predictable to drive hard. At Pitt Race (Track I know very well) the difference is 3 to 5 seconds on a 2 minute lap

I was there last month. No plans yet for any more this year.

@@dmaul8616 chin motorsports on Sept 22nd, 23rd.

Can't, I'm at Watkins Glen the next weekend

@@dmaul8616 Oh that's awesome. On my to do list for next season

This camera doesn't have a metering adjustment. I like the camera because it provides GPS data, but it is terrible for in-car views because of the metering issue. I will need to replace it with a GoPro. I started adding a touch of braking in places through the esses because it seems to help straighten out the car. Not saying that you aren't correct, but the car feels like it has a pronounced rear body roll on each corner, and if the body happens to be rolling back neutral as I turn into the next corner, the body roll has momentum and it feels like the rear will wash out. By touching the brakes the body goes neutral and then I can turn in without the additional body roll movement. Maybe I just need more confidence in the car, I've never actually had significant oversteer through the corners, braking or not.

Bummer on the metering adjustment. I would expect that feature to be standard on a camera at this high of price point. You shouldn't have to touch the brake to straighten out the car. Even though you're supercharged, it will slow you down. If the car is rotating too much, it's an issue with your alignment and/or the settings in your dampers and front swaybar. What suspension are you using again?

If you watch my other upload, the Atom video, I run throttle only through the esses and it is a 2:04 lap, so maybe I'm just overthinking it. I have the Penske SA 500F/700R. The sway bar is a BWR street bar set to neutral. alignment: front camber -1 deg, rear -2.5 deg. front toe 0 deg, rear .2 deg. castor maximum positive. ride height 125f/130r.

Just watched it, so that proves your capable of doing it right :-) Your have about the same suspension setup as me, but I have Nitrons. I run 525#/800# primarily due to the huge ass wing I have in the rear. You definitely could use more camber up front, but not sure how far you intend to go down the rabbit hole with the car. Don't be afraid to let the rear float a little bit. If it starts to step out, catch it. What tires are these? R888?

This video/track day isn't a great example because this was my first track day after a lot of suspension changes, the brakes weren't working correctly, and I was practicing heel toeing. The newer videos of full track more accurately demonstrate my current performance, in those videos I take the south track portion about 5 seconds faster than this video. To your points, they are all accurate. I need to brake less, come in with more speed, and let it unroll more smoothly. I'll try to make a NASA event if there's another at Pitt this year...

Ah, I'll check them out. What the heck was wrong with the brakes? You didn't add a BBK on the front did you?

NASA is done at Pitt for the year. I'll be at Mid-Ohio and Autobahn with NASA.

No, stock brakes. They were awful, looking back at it I should have called it a day. I could step full weight on them and they wouldn't lock up or activate ABS (It was not heat related). After that day, I measured the front rotors and pads and found them to be at the minimum spec, so I replaced them with 2 piece rotors and CL5 pads (and bled them). I am able to lock them up again now. They felt much better for the full track day.

Whatever you do, don't add a BBK. The bias on the Elige platform is already a bit tweaked to the front, and adding a BBK makes it even worse. Stock sized rotors, even on a car that puts 250 horsepower to the ground, are perfect paired with the right pads. What's nice too, is the rotors last forever on these cars! I replaced my stock Centric rotors with new ones, and they've lasted at least 18 full track days. Just now starting to show heat cracking, but still OK to run!