Відео

You microwave may need to be replaced. It could be a number of things inside the microwave that could be bad, causing the tripped breaker. You could also try to plug it in to a different outlet and see if it still trips the breaker, if it does, the microwave is the problem. Good luck!

Thanks for your feedback. Here’s a video showing how to install a doorbell transformer: How to Wire a Doorbell | How to Install a Doorbell | Doorbell Wiring ua-cam.com/video/uzdg5jzUd6s/v-deo.html

It could be, yes.

You’re welcome!

I don’t think you have to bypass the Coresense module. I would do a Google search for: coresense module with a soft starter wiring diagram.

If you look at time stamp: 1:08 to 1:22 you will see the wiring diagram showing how to wire it up, and I explain what each wire color is.

Good question it is important to size it correctly to not cause damage to the compressor. You can reach out to the manufacturer to see what Hardart kit is appropriate for your make and model or here is a great website with how to size a Hardart kit: preview-behleryoung.insitesofthosting.com/tech-tips/choosing-a-hard-start-kit

The EPA (Section 608) is the governing body that regulates refrigerants.

@@kjfacilities-maint thank you for the reply. I heard the Supreme Court has made it to where agencies like the EPA cannot change rules because they undid the Chevron precedent. So expert interpretations of their legal authority and mandates in making rules is theoretically dead. I remember when the chemistry of CFCs was eventually shown to have negligible impact on the ozone. I'm going to have to read a lot about these new compounds to get a feel if it's a profiting scheme or not. Could be amazing I have no idea. I do know regulatory agencies are in a twilight zone right now and its been a practice these days to ignore the Supreme Court.

Correct. I hope that was clear in the video.

Hi Andrew, thanks for your comment. Here is an adapter to go from GHT to BSP: www.amazon.com/Tecmolog-Fitting-Connector-Adapter-SBA037A/dp/B086JP2DYW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=93172568549&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.z14Oy2bs2gTksA4aHWFSof6zMiKCr0gPVPd2Iq8EsgH121BRcq5Zs_1pkbfFbS0tTGLghhSJj0OhYVvcJDSRCD-oNT73Glbr7aHfZD41SGDf9ZsaGnIRdrNd5FDFcXXYtnuvgHHWIRvhRfYcbF7Wj2bRF-kklweiStk6NpkWATvFDcaeKIs06iR0d6bp7qwdqCy71QehYDJv4CNaLlluOg.MXjusFD-5Ge4cIpzcLWNgNehoIJeShtf6YCMC2M59cQ&dib_tag=se&hvadid=580748206548&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9029029&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=13291828187716751319&hvtargid=kwd-301469400219&hydadcr=25033_13491489&keywords=bsp+to+ght+adapter&qid=1721041045&sr=8-3

Most HVAC systems will have a P-trap. The P-trap allows the drain pan to drain the condensate. Without a P-trap there is a risk the drain pan can fill up and overflow.

Yes I did, sorry I didn’t clarify that in the video.

Perfect. Thanks!

They usually slide out of the metal bracket they are attached to. There is a screw(s) that holds the bracket to the light fixture. Remember to turn the power off first!

Thanks. The ones I bought are a bit different. The old ones clipped in but the new ones screw in. Gotta head back to the store.

@@susanskidmore-colorado5779 I appreciate your suggestion. Glad to hear you were able to fix it.

@@susanskidmore-colorado5779 you’re welcome!

No, it’s only rated for 120 volts.

I understand your frustration.

@@kjfacilities-maint your doing a hell of a job,,buy i have noticed everything is going down hill i mean not even 2 years old and it's leaking,it has a lifetime warrenty but its a pain

I’m glad the video helped! Good luck with your vacuum battery. You might be able to Google the make and model number and see if you can find out to replace that battery.

You're welcome!

You’re very welcome!

Indeed, it will!

You're welcome!

Thank You

You will need to find the circuit breaker that supplies power to the transformer and shut the circuit breaker off

Make sure there is no ice anywhere that could impede the air tunnel. Make sure the slot in the back and the two slots in the front are fully engaging and that front tab should then click into place.

Wow thanks for the prompt reply. Got to the point when you try to jam something back in place nothing good comes out of it 😆. I'll take it back out and put it back in. The front two slots are in place.

You're welcome, I'm glad it was helpful!

You’re welcome

In regards to money saving, according to the manufacturers website, it all depends on how your electric company does their billing. However, from an equipment longevity standpoint, a soft starter will save you money in the long run because it will extend the life of your compressor. A soft starter also allows you to run your air conditioner on a smaller sized generator, whereas if you didn’t have a soft starter, you’d have to buy a larger, more expensive generator.

I hear you, I’m not a big fan of all the new push button technology on new refrigerators either.

Here are some things you can try if your hot surface light is stuck on: Reset the power: Turn off the circuit breaker for one minute, then turn it back on. Wait a minute to see if the error code appears again, and then check that the cooktop is working. Check the controls: Make sure all the cooktop controls are off. Let it cool: Allow the cooktop to cool down. Check the switch: A broken hot surface switch on a burner can cause the light to stay on. You can lift the glass cooktop and test each switch. A bimetallic switch inside the heating element limiter can also get stuck closed if it weakens over time. Gently tapping the cooktop might cause the switch to spring back open

Do you see where the leak is? Did you try installing a new filter?

@@kjfacilities-maint tried 3 new filters all failed. Put old one back in, no problems. Ordered bypass plug now. Said screw it

@gman8760 sorry to hear that, I don’t blame you for installing a bypass.

If the unit came with a hard start kit from the manufacturer, I would leave it on, and not install a soft start kit. If it was an aftermarket part that was installed to help the compressor start I would disconnect it and see if the soft starter starts the compressor just fine.

@@kjfacilities-maint it didn’t come with one. I have an 18 seer heat pump system. I purchased it from Trane. So it’s the one that is designed for that unit. Back in my days they used to come with them. But all the systems now don’t have them installed from the manufacturer. I’m assuming because back then they used reciprocal compressors. Now it’s all scroll or inverter.

@@kjfacilities-maint my worry is that it has been using the hard start for 6 years now and I’m worried the soft start will give it problems starting up. Again I’m assuming. I’ve never dealt with a soft start but by looking at the videos it’s almost like an inverter circuit board.

@juanresendiz56jr I understand your concern, I would see if the compressor starts up with the soft starter. I wouldn’t try to run both, that may cause problems.

@@kjfacilities-maint sounds good. I really appreciate your information. Have a great day!!

That is correct. I typed the correct wording on the video slide, but for some reason, my brain had trouble saying "commutated" when recording the video. 😊

@@kjfacilities-maint I design motors for a living. You seem very knowledgeable about them, and I appreciated the video.

@@joeholland9593 Your job sounds fun! I appreciate your feedback. I will try to edit out my mispronunciation, I want people to learn the proper terminology.

I would check the Door Lock and Switch Assembly. Check the Temperature Control Thermostat. Check the Thermal Fuse. Check the Elements. Check the Oven Control Board.

Blend door actuators are a common reason for the car air conditioning to blow cold air on one side and hot air on the other. They can be diagnosed with an advanced scan tool, or by watching the linkage move when you switch from heating to cooling.

I have the same problem. Only difference is my car is the 2013 Camry Hybrid with dual climate control. With A/C on, blows cold on passenger side vents, and ambient air on driver side. Switch to heat, and both sides blow hot. All other climate control functions seem to work, like changing modes (defrost, front vents, floor), recirculate on/off, and temp (with exception to the A/C on drivers side of course). I've checked both left and right Blend Door Actuators and they are functioning. I can't find anything else that would control temps or how the A/C flows through the driver side vents vs passenger side. So far, every Google search, UA-cam video, forum post .. all point to the blend door actuators, but nothing else beyond that. I can't figure it out.

@RobertBriggsTheTech have you checked the refrigerant charge yet? Or tried cleaning the evaporator coil?

@@RobertBriggsTheTech In my case adding refrigerant fixed the issue. I ended up buying a cheap AC gauge set from Amazon ($41) which allowed me to check the pressure and add refrigerant ($10 can from Walmart). All my research indicated 3 possible issues: 1) the AC sensor, 2) the blend door and 3) low refrigerant. For 1) I placed a magnet over the sensor and that did not help. For 2) I checked the Actuator which was moving. But, again, my car is a 2013 Camry SE without the dual climate control.

@@RobertBriggsTheTech btw, if you are sure that the refrigerant is the issue (maybe AutoZone or some car shop can check the pressure for you?), you can also buy a refrigerant canister with a built in pressure gauge. I think they go for around $30. The reason I decided to buy the tool gauge set is because I don't plan on selling my Camry so I might need to add more refrigerant in the future.

That’s awesome! Congrats!

How do you like it so far? I recently applied for a position at my local hospital.

@justincuvelier9569 I’ve spent over 20 years in the facilities maintenance space I enjoy it. It’s something different every day you get to work with your hands solve problems. It’s a great career choice. Good luck with your application!

You can move the device up a little bit. Or you can try a different style Backflow preventer.

Excellent!

You’re welcome!

I’m glad it helped!

It’s best practice to put the surge protector as close to the main breaker as you can. For safety and liability reasons I can’t tell people it’s ok to install the surge protector in any two open slots in their panel.

Completely understand. Sadly, After looking over my breaker I think it might be too old for the HOM and QO models

@ironicstatement they do make whole house surge protectors that attach to a knockout on the side of your breaker panel, and get hardwired. Or, another option is to install a surge protector on your hvac equipment itself, here’s an example: www.supplyhouse.com/MARS-83905-HVAC-Surge-Protection-Device-120-240v

You’re welcome!

@@kjfacilities-maint - Kevin, we have such an ice dam in our unit that I cannot get the tray out. Do you know if turning off the ice maker turns off the cooling as well as production process? I'd like not to have to turn the whole fridge off. Again, thanks for this helpful video!

@MannikinFreezTag you can turn off the ice maker or unplug the wiring harness that goes to the ice maker.

I turned off the ice maker but that didn’t help. Had to just really commit with the steamer to get things to loosen up. Even when it looked clear as the eye could see, there was a strong block in the back between the cooling hose that was preventing the unit from sliding away from the hose.