Відео

Thank you! Without this video I would be completely lost. Fixed the problem!

If you remove the bottom of the socket, is the connectors along the midpoints of each side still being able to make a good contact over time? Because all those springy contacts would want to bulge the socket outwards methinks, and with only the solder points on the board holding things together it might not be enough. Maybe. I dunno! :D Also, PLCC sockets tend to be kind of brittle and easy to crack; for longevity I'd rather keep the bottom of the socket in place I'd think... :)

To really test the FPU, you need AIBB65 and to enable 020/FPU option. The "golden" text buttons, are the FPU tests.

You don't need to knock the bottom out of your socket to solder it, just use a 0.3mm soldering iron tip.

I love Microntas, I have one 22-208 and one 22-220a both are fet input multimeters. My every day multimeter is a Fluke 87V.

I have a 22-152 in a roll-top box, with leads. Ever see one of these boxes?

In addition to needle length, the speed of the movement is also related to its sensitivity. You'll note that the meters that you found were "impressively" fast were 2kΩ/V whereas the slow meters were 10kΩ/V or higher. A needle can move faster if you can put more current through the coil.

I have a Model 22-260, which you mention is the same as a 22-203, a 30,000 ohm/volt meter. The 260 is a Range Doubler with 46 ranges and 50K-25K VDC. A look back through the Radio Shack catalogs 1972 Version 2 and 1973 shows this model. The price went up from 24.95 to 27.95 in a year. The 1974 catalog has no 22-260, but Model 22-204 appears with similar specs and a slightly different dial/switch layout. What may be most interesting is the internals of the 22-260 are different than the meters you demonstrate. A robust switch assembly has rather crudely soldered, exposed internal diodes and resistors and no actual printed circuit board. It also lacks a 9V battery. Unfortunately, mine gave out in just the past year and no longer works properly - the (slow, large) meter pegs to the side opposite zero ohms when it's switched on. I plan to put in at least $25.00 of my time trying to fix it before I buy a Sanwa. Thanks for your video and good luck with your hobby.

A sweeping needle is much more elegant than a digital display.

Don't see the Holy Grail of analog Microntas, 22-216 autoranging FET VOM. Almost all another models are in your collection. Splendid!

Thanks for the Memories! My First VOM also was a Micronta. With my Dad being a chiropractor, and my Mom a teacher, well it was the meter that I could afford. Very vaguely, I think it was about nine dollars US, to compare, Matchbox cars were fifty five cents, but i was getting tired of those by then in my life. The REMCO crystal radio and the Radio Shack meter changed EVERYTHING in my life! Much like the ad for St. Pauli Girl Beer ("You never forget your first girl.") That you never forget your first meter is ALSO a fact. And? When you are young and you use that meter for the first time, you think that you have "discovered" Ohm's Law! 😂 I'm not going further with the analogy...😂 But it makes the Maths TRUTH in your mind's eye, and thats IMPORTANT for students. Now sixty three years old, I have an electronics lab accumulated over a lifetime, and the specifications for DVM's, VNA's, Tiny SA's, and Oscilloscopes, both bench and handheld have entry level specifications at such small prices adjusting for inflation that we dreamed not of... All the Best! 73 DE W8LV BILL

I've heard of catalog numbers changing because of suppliers changing

I miss the old Radio Scrap/Tandy battery of the month club. Never used to run out of batteries...

Nice collection and thanks for the trip down memory lane . In the mid 90s Radio shack closed down their warehouse in BARRIE Ontario they had a get rid of everything sale I filled the back of my Pathfinder with replacement parts and equipment for next to nothing . what a great day .

What firmware did you use please and where did you find the files for the x axis cover Thank you 🙂

I have a 22-216 just like new, I do not have the manual for it. Do you if there is anywhere that I can download the manual?

The "OUTPUT" jack on the first meter (22-201A) is actually an input. There's a DC blocking capacitor in place (rated 600V). This is for measuring AC voltages in the presence of a DC bias. Black lead to COM, Red lead to OUTPUT, Range switch to an ACV position. I still have this meter. As a young lad, I bought it for my Dad on his birthday. Long ago, in turn I inherited it from him. Analog meters are still handy.

i need the firmware link please

by far worst accuracy, useless, static electricity affects reading... light year behind hioki, gossen metrawatt, simpson, triplett..

My first multimeter was a Micronta 22-208, and I still have it. FET input, and very accurate yet. It’s in great shape, with the original box, leads, and manual. I bought it in 1977 or 1978. I have had several digital meters and a Simpson 260 over the years since then, but I keep coming back to the Shack when I occasionally need an analog meter.

Very bad tutorial .

Avrei voluto vederlo in funzione nell'AMIGA

Wasn't hard to figure out.

I have an FPU slot on my Blizzard A1230 MKII and it accepts a 50 MHz FPU and runs at the same speed as the CPU. If possible, its best to get an FPU on the same board and have them running at the same speed. Its awesome to know that the A1200 can have an FPU mounted onto the motherboard, I've always wondered if the traces actually went where they could be of use. As I had an accelerator with an FPU anyway, I never tried to put one on the motherboard. The IDE interface on the A1200 does support 2 drives (4 if you get a splitter) and I found that a modern laptop IDE SSD will fit nicely into the hard drive mount and is thinner than the Amiga's original hard drive. I then used double sided tape on both sides of some plastic to insulate the under side of the IDE to CF adapter and stuck it to the top of the SSD. I then made a custom cable with 3 mini IDE sockets and secured the drives to the mount. My main Amiga 1200 setup HD floppy drive for 880 K and 1.44 MB disks (ROMs need upgrading to use HD drive) 3 x External floppy drives 880 K 8 GB IDE SSD - 2 x 4 GB partitions 8 GB IDE to CF adapter - 2 x 4 GB partitions Blizzard A1230 MKII @ 50 MHz + FPU 128 MB RAM Blizzard SCSI interface card 128 MB RAM External SCSI HDD x 2 @ 60 GB - 4 GB partitions External CD-RW x 2 External SCSI backup tape drive SCSI scanner Total RAM 256 MB + 2 MB on board

Lifesaver! Thank you

going to give this a go for the a4000.. thanks for the video for the information, and ideas of what is new to make the amiga more upgraded

this messed mine up accolmated it to 4096 then i did private and the bin on the root source and it screwed my board

Man you are really a hero for sure....just saved my 3D printer from throwing away

Mine just goes pure white after falling asleep and wont stop until I redo the firmware a few times... Any ideas? I just bought it like a month ago and only used it 3 times as my filament didn't arrive till now...

Correction: You DO NOT need heatsinks on this type of SSD/adapter, they simply do not run hot enough, ignore that

Minor Comment: You seemed to compare the "Dhrystone" figures, but that's an Integer-Benchmark anyways. The relevant figure to check the FPU performance is the "MFlops" Benchmark figure. It was still equal in both your tests, at 0.43 MFlops. Which is exactly what you can expect from the 68882 running at 14 MHz.

Saved the day! I should've checked here first instead of doing the runaround with tech support and them having no idea what they're talking about.

Thanks for this video. I had been stumped until I found your video!

I went through this a few weeks back...drove me crazy until I found a video showing the internal SD slot. Such poor documentation.

Thanks for the walkthrough! This is my 1st 3d printer so I definitely needed the help. What did you notice from the update? Was it worth it?

Thanks fore the help mate got worried for a second untill i went trough the video :D

Thanks for this! Rereading the instructions, they do say to put in into the back of the screen, but there is no mention of even having a SD card slot there. I was lost without this video.

Be careful when you buy an IDE to SATA adapter - several of them do not support PIO 0 and simply won't work on Amiga's IDE. Make sure you get one that supports PIO 0

Yep, a direct install will clock the FPU at half the oscillator clock, just like the onboard EC020. But you can lift pin 11 of the FPU (or the PLCC connector, like I did) and jump it directly to E122R (just above the oscillator) and get the full 28MHz clock.

Makes sense, as the CPU Clock signal from the oscillator is tied to both the 68881/68882 and the 68020, so yes it will pull the A1200 motherboard Clock. The circuitry for ascertaining the primary CPU between the Onboard and Trapdoor, is a simple circuit that ties the 68020 in to a never ending wait for Bus control, while the trapdoor receives an unimpeded Bus Grant signal. Same for the 600, with the 68000 on the motherboard and the clip on CPU/FPU boards, force the 68000 in to a never ending wait for Bus control. At power up, the onboard CPU sends out a _BR (Request Bus control), then the CPU sits and waits for a _BG (Bus request granted), but what you do is tie the _BG pin to ground via a 1k resistor, and the chip just sits there waiting. Then on the expansion board, you tie VCC (with 1k Resistor) to the new board's CPU pin (_BG) so it gets permission over the system bus, and off it goes. Where you are going to run in to problems is the Expansion having a 68882, as well as one soldered (or by socket) on the motherboard, then you will have 2 devices trying to take up the same address space, likely cancelling each other out.. But having said which, the 68882 is a rather poor floating point unit. imgur.com/a/fO2m5xA

The more important question is: how does it behave with only an on-board 68EC020?

What is the card you used? SSD to 44 pin? I have bought several different ones and several different ssd cards nothing boots.

Well Kingston do not work then what one do we buy? I have a samsung 860 evo sata m.2 does not work?

M.2 add into an Amiga! And with heatsink. :) One of the most extreme overkills! If not the Amiga, PATA will limit the load on that thing, it will not be even warm. You should not use M.2 either, just buy a cheaper 2.5' SATA ssd, it will be cheaper, and it will not be much bigger than this adaptor.

Is there any speed benefit to running SSD, either in WB load up time or program speed? I run three Amiga's, all with CF/SD hard drives and I've probably never gone over 5% even on an 8GB card. I just can't see what you would need that much storage for? Interesting video though

You can get a 128gb micros less size and less heat

Amazing.. Very usefull video :)

Nice to see the Amiga moving forward again with M2 storage, it would be handy to have the links for sites you used for your parts and maybe a quick tutorial on your simple way of installing PFS3 file system.

I have tried a serbent drive and my machine would not beet with it attached. If I attached it after booting and reset. (don't do this at home!) the drive was recognised. Not all drives / adapters work

The modules in the cigar tin might contain MAX485 chips - RS485 transceivers.