![Easy Target](/img/default-banner.jpg)
- 32
- 20 287
Easy Target
Приєднався 28 лип 2010
My Videos, mostly dull.
A MicroPython Marquee for small screens
MicroPython marquee display on a small OLED, using fonts from my ezFBfont collection.
My marquee class, ezFBmarquee.py, handles all the scrolling on the screen, driven by a timer.
github.com/easytarget/microPyEZfonts
This is the marquee demo program (from the examples folder) running on a i2c ssd1306 OLED display, powered by a ESP32 dev board runnin MicroPython 1.22
A simple main loop sets the lower scroller to show the tens of seconds info at the appropriate time, but otherwise does nothing.
The upper marquee line is created just before the main loop starts, and runs in the background continually.
All the animation, pausing and stopping of displays is handled by the timer outside the main loop.
If you look really carefully you can see some missing pixels on the descending parts of the lowest text, this is my 'spare' screen and four of the last 8 lines have failed. A hardware issue, not software.
My marquee class, ezFBmarquee.py, handles all the scrolling on the screen, driven by a timer.
github.com/easytarget/microPyEZfonts
This is the marquee demo program (from the examples folder) running on a i2c ssd1306 OLED display, powered by a ESP32 dev board runnin MicroPython 1.22
A simple main loop sets the lower scroller to show the tens of seconds info at the appropriate time, but otherwise does nothing.
The upper marquee line is created just before the main loop starts, and runs in the background continually.
All the animation, pausing and stopping of displays is handled by the timer outside the main loop.
If you look really carefully you can see some missing pixels on the descending parts of the lowest text, this is my 'spare' screen and four of the last 8 lines have failed. A hardware issue, not software.
Переглядів: 136
Відео
AH Surprisepakket Unboxing
Переглядів 202 роки тому
De moeite waard? Verrassingspakket voor 15 Eur; Albert Heijn, Diemen
Unpacking the 5040 Lasercutter
Переглядів 203 роки тому
A rather jerky timelapse showing what you get in the box.. I'm learning how to use my camera, I made the timelapse of this far too fast, and it's slowed down 4x here so you have a chance to see things as they flash past ;-) I got a model without a laser module (I have one already, that's what I get out at the end), there was an empty pocket in the box as a result. But otherwise everything was p...
Testing my new 5040 Lasercutter kit
Переглядів 353 роки тому
Bought on AliExpress, a the bare kit without laser, I already had the 20W unit used here on my shelf. This is a 'quick-n-dirty' test, it needs work on wiring routing and some other stuff, but not bad for a first run. This is totally vanilla, apart from the laser module and the cable I knocked up for it, everything else came in the box. No cats were harmed in the making of this... I kept an eye ...
Nellestein to Centrum by bike
Переглядів 523 роки тому
Simple action cam footage from the A9 by Nellestein (Gaasperplas), riding into town in 25mins or so on my e-bike. Febuary, 2021 It's a wide-angle lens, so gaps are not as close as they seem.
Baby Guppies II
Переглядів 63 роки тому
A new video of the Baby guppies in my breeding tank, and a little sight of the Angelfish they will have to live with once properly grown up.
Baby Guppies in my tank
Переглядів 83 роки тому
Baby Guppies being bred in my aquarium, once they are big enough not to be eaten they will go to live with the big fish in my main aquarium.
Tripping out to my CNC's Laser
Переглядів 834 роки тому
Cutting mirrors on my 1610 CNC 5.5W laser module, the backwash reflections on the wall being rather spectacular (at least when I risked peeking out from under my safety glasses). I couldn't resist making a film, apropos to nothing.
Kali's old tank, re-imagined
Переглядів 204 роки тому
After my old goldfish friend Kali passed away we decided to transform her aquarium into something more lively, I'm pleased with the result. Angelfish, Barbs, Coridorias, Guppies and a Krib (hiding); lovely.
TwistedVase on a K280 delta printer. 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4mm layers
Переглядів 4065 років тому
an hour and a half to print, very solid and strong. Showing off my lovely new PEI bed too, from www.aliexpress.com/item/ENERGETIC-Removable-Build-Surface-Spring-Steel-PEI-Plate-Pre-applied-for-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-Round/32954862615.html
550mm vase mode RocketPlane on a He3D K280 Delta printer.
Переглядів 4485 років тому
12 hours printing in Economy PLA, with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.25 layers on my much-modified K280. About 12 hours printing at a fairly sedate 30mm/s on the perimeter to ensure a good finish. Lovely object to handle; the 0.8 perimeters make it very strong, total weight only 188gr.
Demo of Bart Dring's Grbl ESP32 CNC Development Board V3.1, very good.
Переглядів 15 тис.5 років тому
A short demo of the ESP32 WiFi GRBL CNC controller board from Bart Dring on Tindie: www.tindie.com/products/33366583/grbl_esp32-cnc-development-board-v41/ (link to the latest board version, the version reviewed is v3.1, the changes are minimal.) I'm very pleased with the board, it also has properly working serial and telnet connectivity. The firmware was a bit of a pain to get running but I did...
Printing a Bust of Thanos the Titan on my HE3D K280 (heavily upgraded)
Переглядів 3896 років тому
Bust of Thanos (from www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-thanos-infinity-war-bust-72420) Print time approx 18 hours, 0.2mm layers, 80mm/s perimeters, Real Filament black PLA (a 3kg reel, muhahaha..)
Cutting a logo with a 1610 woodpecker CNC plus 5 5w laser
Переглядів 1,1 тис.6 років тому
Cutting a logo with a 1610 woodpecker CNC plus 5 5w laser
Still Water on a HE3D K280 delta printer.
Переглядів 5026 років тому
Still Water on a HE3D K280 delta printer.
Somewhat too fast 3d benchy on my HE3d K280 Duet Delta Printer
Переглядів 6476 років тому
Somewhat too fast 3d benchy on my HE3d K280 Duet Delta Printer
HE3D K280 delta with DuetWiFi printing a (still)warped PETG part
Переглядів 3766 років тому
HE3D K280 delta with DuetWiFi printing a (still)warped PETG part
Low Poly Pikachu printed on the Renkforce RF100
Переглядів 856 років тому
Low Poly Pikachu printed on the Renkforce RF100
3d printing the chromatic vase on my RenkForce RF100
Переглядів 2786 років тому
3d printing the chromatic vase on my RenkForce RF100
Cuck en Bob vonden het wel leuk zo te zien
I have a board like yours but after I connect it to the power supply the output voltage is only 4.65v, did you experience the same thing?
No. Sorry, but as I have said elsewhere, I'm only reviewing the board, not supporting it. Double-check your power supplies, wiring and understanding. If you still think the board is in error go to you supplier.
As the description on the link says.. It's on a disk of spring steel, Which is then held by a whole bunch of magnets underneath the Hotbed (very strong high temperature magnets that grip it firmly despite having the hotbed in the way.).
you apply pei sheet direct in he3d bed or use borosilicate glass? ty
Hello,can this laser cut 3 or 4mm balsa or plywood? Thank tou
Sorry for the slow reply, yes it can. But it is a slow and painful task unless you add high-pressure air assistance to the mix. You must get the focus exactly right, and lower the focus in the material between passes, so you really need an adjustable Z axis (my first upgradeon this machine..) You also need many passes, and some plywood will never cut properly if it has the wrong sort of glue (eg a glue that scatters the Blue light rather than absorbing and being cut by it) Most 'lasercuttable sheets of ply only means cuttable with IR CO2 lasers, you need to doublecheck if they include blue light lasers in their specs. Finally; You need some form of air assist, a good fan at minimum; but I'm now playing with a high-pressure airpump and a 3d printed nozzle; I'll do a video on that sometime if I can be bothered; I'm able to cut 2mm aircraft ply in 1 pass now, at 500mm/min, without the ply scorching or igniting by blasting high pressure air at it from a 4mm nozzle 5mm above the piece.. :-) Finally, you need to clean the lens occasionally, although small it still get a coating of soot etc; a q-tip, some iso-alcohol and patience are needed.
@@SlEasyTarget thank you so much. I am new in laser world ,and this informations helps me so much.I got an aluminium distancer from my laser seller ,it helps me so much to make the best distance between laser and material.And yes you are right,today I cut 4mm plywood-it turns good in one pass. Then I try to cut 3mm plywood and get- nothing. Definitely it’s about glue problem that you talk about.
Do you use repetier?
No. This uses a Duet WiFi card.
During auto calibration my k280 hotend went off the print bed, what could I be doing wrong?
Why do you want to lower down drivers from 64 micro steps? More resolution is more accuracy isn’t it?
The devil is in the detail. This board controls a 3axis CNC/Laser engraver with screw thread drive. The maths is like this: 4mm travel per revolution, 200 full steps per revolution = 0.02mm per step. With 16x miicrostepping you have a basic accuracy of 0.00125 (800 steps per mm). This is far below the tolerances of the rest of the machine, and greatly exceeds the accuracy I need for my pcb and laser cutting jobs. Increasing the microstepping (max is 128x with these drivers) will actually lower the speed of the machine (by restricting travel speed, the controller itself has a max step triggering rate) for no perceptible gain.
@@SlEasyTarget I have been dabbling with laser engravers for over a year now. I learn something new everyday. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
First thanks for this video, i have the same board and seeing yours connected with stops helped me.. also you have setup a great looking test bench. I see we have some of the same testing kits but mine are all in a pile.. Any chance of a video that shows off what you have done to layout your power and test items?
It would be a very dull video. So a short description needs to suffice. The PSU modules are all screwed to a piece of wood with some mirror mounting clips I had lying around, a couple of connector blocks route the wiring and some speaker terminal blocks make it easy to attach leads. All the fancy acryllic cases came with the modules, they are surprisingly badly made, even for low end products. Underneath the wood I glued a chunky PSU taken from an old laptop (19V at 8A, quite powerful) and a big (20A) buck converter to give me a strong 12V supply, this goes through a Power/Voltage meter so I can see the overall load and is then distrubuted to the smaller adjustable converters (which all have individual voltage/power meters too). One of the smaller converters is permanently set to 9V, and has a couple of fixed leads ending in barrel jacks, which is convenient for powering the 'scope and Transistor tester etc. The others are adjustable for whatever project I am working on. There is no negative supply, all the 0V lines are commonly bonded and earthed. I designed and 3d printed a couple of wedge shaped stands for the under the plank, but could have just as easily cut some wood to suit..
I installed esp32 grbl. Most of it's function are working , like job x y x ,homeing , z prob ,limit switches but I can't control it's coolent and spindle ! I don't connect it's any switches like door ,cycle start etc.what might be the reason can you please explain?
Hi, I am try to enable/on spendal and coolent ( ESP32 grbl ) .i want to add relay control spendal motor.there is a file called really.h but it's not working ! Please give me a solution.
I just reviewed it, I did not make it, I don't support it ;-) Details of how to setup etc are all on the designers github page. As is a wiki that may well have the information you need. github.com/bdring/Grbl_Esp32/wiki
Where do you buy the green board for esp32 and stepper driver motor?
The old link to v3.1 was in the description, this was dead but did redirect you to Bart's web store.. Anyway; I've updated it to the current version of this board. Look at the main web store for a number of variations on this board made by Bart; they all look great, and there are versions with more steppers, etc.. www.tindie.com/stores/33366583/
Nice proect, tks for sharing. I'll copy your display idea.
For some reason I can not upload the code from arduino ide to the esp32. It says it exceeds the storage space. Any one have a clue why?
Try setting the spiffs partition scheme to "huge" from the tools menue
@@Mailmartinviljoen thanks! I found that in the docs. Never found a video on the tube that explains that.
Very nice project and thanks for sharing, please need help I want 4th axis for this how can I do that.... ua-cam.com/video/oHTzcLUDKEI/v-deo.html
Hello, Dear author, I am writing to you from Russia, you have made a very good project! In Russia there is no such thing. I will follow your blog.
Nice setup you have there. I built one by following the blueprint on github, but if I were to do it again, I'd order a pre-build one like you did. The MPCNC version from the same maker looks like a good (better?) alternative as well. That one features double stepper controllers for 2 axis. I tried numerous setups, with arduinos, rasberry-pis and pc-lpt, but this esp32 version is the only one that runs without a glitch. The sd-card is a gamechanger. I can operate my machine with a phone or whatever thing with a browser over wifi and never worry about loosing connection as it runs stand-alone. No boot time, no shutting down procedures. No issues regarding homing or machine limits like I had with the atmega version. Just perfect.
Hi Owen, very nice demo and well explained. I just ordered a board to make my Eleksmaker A4 independent from my laptop. How far is your own laser project? Mightbe good to give the community a bit of review with the board and your system. I know from several forums that a headless grbl system is on the top wishlist of many users. Having googled for hours Bart's approach is by far the most advanced and most thought through system.
Thanks for the comment, this board ended up in my little CNC/laserEngraver. I really should do a new video showing it in use there, it's a very nice tool. I ran out of time to do anything with the big format machine, I have all the parts except a frame, but I need to complete other more important stuff before I drage the box out again. When I do it will probably have a home-built MPCNC version of the same controller in it.
This is your nephew Dexter. I think your channel is really great and the vidiosna really cool
You are very welcome Dex, I'm hoping to drop some drone videos up soon, once I have fixed it :-( and the sun comes out to play.
Yeh that would be really cool
What accelerations set in EEPROM?
M201 X3000 Y3000 Z3000 E1600 My Config (Reprap) is here: gist.github.com/easytarget/1a0049a1bf20a8e6ffed5be783fc866c#file-config-g-L45 Note that I have 0.9 degree steppers and 9mm belts, I used to have accel. at 2500 for XYZ with the original motors and belts, but it really is something you need to tune for yourself, since it is related to travel, jerk and pressure advance plus hotend.. and my K280 is heavily modded. However.. Assuming you have done a good build; start fairly aggressive for accel travel and jerk on the K280, it's got a lot of potential in that respect.
I'll check it out.. Thanks again...
Hi... will you be willing to give a copy of your configuration file for the K280? I have tried to make my K280 to work with different boards and none work. This would be my last try before I do something else with the aluminum, extrusions.. I would really appreciate your help..
The only config I have is for my Duet WIFI board, which I fitted from scratch: I never even powered up the provided controller, and the printer itself now has double precision steppers, iR level sensor, E3d titan and v6 hotend+pt1000, a whole bunch of mods that take it away from standard. But for what it is worth I've put them here: gist.github.com/easytarget/1a0049a1bf20a8e6ffed5be783fc866c please note the comments.. Whatever board you are using; do it slowly and in stages. Start with movement, get the printer homing and moving as expected, eg it homes all three vertices reliably, and if asked to move 100mm down in Z moves 100mm (eg step counts and directions correct), dont worry about X and Y yet. Then get the hotend heating, and extruding (calibrate the extruder). Then get it probing with whatever height sensor you use. Work out the offset and get it repeatable. Then calibrate/level (with the bed at temperature.. it tends to expand once hot). Then print.. I re-calibrate before every print, the K280 is spindly and seems to drift off calibration easily.
PS: A more current view of the printer is here: ua-cam.com/video/yVcaO6UiXgI/v-deo.html
I'm getting a duet wifi. Thank you for your help help. I'll try to follow the steps you indicated.. Wish me luck.. 😉
Good Luck! Note that there is a followup board to the DuetWiFi called the Duet maestro; it's cheaper and only for single extruder systems. But it runs the same firmware/controller so the config is identical. Do not forget to halve the steps/mm for the vertices in the config if you are using the supplied (1.8degree/step) motors. And the extruder calibration there is for a Titan (which has a 3:1 gear in it) so you will need to change that radically too ;-)
May I know what upgrades did you add to this printer?
It started mostly stock, but with a 32bit controller (Duet WiFi) fitted during the initial build. Since then it has got an e3d v6 hotend, with 60W heater and PT1000 sensor. Lots of lighting and fluff to make it prettier I have swapped the leveller for a Precision Piezo Orion unit on a custom effector, with my own designed part coolers and adjustable slider clamps. There is a Titan Extruder driving the bowden, and a 0.9degree stepper + 9mm belt upgrade in progress. I publish the custom bits here: www.thingiverse.com/Nanocube/designs once they are stable enough. This is an expensive upgrade path; I used the K280 as a initial kit of parts to build an idealised printer around.
what laser module are you using and where did you get it from? i would like to buy the 3018 model of this CNC with the spindle but add the laser engraver later.
Laser module came as part of the kit, but it's a very standard module (only oddity is it came with a 24v pwm/supply board, since the 1610 kit uses that, most are 12v. but you often get options) Look for 'laser engraver modules' and you will find a decent selection. Mine is a 5.5W unit and came with the 1610 kit from 'Jacks Store' on Aliexpress, they also sell these (and even more powerful ones, muhahahah) as loose items.
I got my woodpecker 1610 from Amazon last week. There's not much info about it. I see you have put legs on yours and also you have the brackets for the bed below the 2020. Is it stable when using the spindle and using it for engraving and cutting wood.
Yep, with the spindle+ER11 chuck I had no space left to the bed unless I mounted the spindle uncomfortably high in the holder. So I decided to reverse the bed mount rails, which actually drops the bed too far, then lift the bed back up as appropriate.I found some (nice) 2020 50mm corner legs on thingieverse, printed them and did the mods. The 100x50x20 spacers for the Y bearings I designed myself (something similar for the drive block too). It still feels strong enough for my purposes. I wont be pushing it's capacity anyway, PCB and laser engraving mostly. I will be trying some smaller 80x50x20 blocks to give 120mm Y travel; even less stable of course, though I hope acceptable for me. Legs are in: www.thingiverse.com/Nanocube/collections/cnc I have been busy on several SCAD designs (bed lifters, spindle top cover/switch/cable relief, laser velocity stack+cable relief, unused spindle/laser holder). I'll post them all to that collection once I have finished some last tweaks and taken some good pictures ;-)
I put the ER11 on my spindle and have very little space to fit any of the tools on it and have room to put a piece of wood on the bed. I solved that problem by using longer 2020 an the X Z. I cannot make it too tall as all the weight is high up and makes it easy to tip over. Please let me know when you have uploaded your mods. Thank you.
..that'll be the Zebra and other giraffe.. ;-)
....and friends?...