Відео

No. Sorry, but as I have said elsewhere, I'm only reviewing the board, not supporting it. Double-check your power supplies, wiring and understanding. If you still think the board is in error go to you supplier.

Sorry for the slow reply, yes it can. But it is a slow and painful task unless you add high-pressure air assistance to the mix. You must get the focus exactly right, and lower the focus in the material between passes, so you really need an adjustable Z axis (my first upgradeon this machine..) You also need many passes, and some plywood will never cut properly if it has the wrong sort of glue (eg a glue that scatters the Blue light rather than absorbing and being cut by it) Most 'lasercuttable sheets of ply only means cuttable with IR CO2 lasers, you need to doublecheck if they include blue light lasers in their specs. Finally; You need some form of air assist, a good fan at minimum; but I'm now playing with a high-pressure airpump and a 3d printed nozzle; I'll do a video on that sometime if I can be bothered; I'm able to cut 2mm aircraft ply in 1 pass now, at 500mm/min, without the ply scorching or igniting by blasting high pressure air at it from a 4mm nozzle 5mm above the piece.. :-) Finally, you need to clean the lens occasionally, although small it still get a coating of soot etc; a q-tip, some iso-alcohol and patience are needed.

@@SlEasyTarget thank you so much. I am new in laser world ,and this informations helps me so much.I got an aluminium distancer from my laser seller ,it helps me so much to make the best distance between laser and material.And yes you are right,today I cut 4mm plywood-it turns good in one pass. Then I try to cut 3mm plywood and get- nothing. Definitely it’s about glue problem that you talk about.

No. This uses a Duet WiFi card.

The devil is in the detail. This board controls a 3axis CNC/Laser engraver with screw thread drive. The maths is like this: 4mm travel per revolution, 200 full steps per revolution = 0.02mm per step. With 16x miicrostepping you have a basic accuracy of 0.00125 (800 steps per mm). This is far below the tolerances of the rest of the machine, and greatly exceeds the accuracy I need for my pcb and laser cutting jobs. Increasing the microstepping (max is 128x with these drivers) will actually lower the speed of the machine (by restricting travel speed, the controller itself has a max step triggering rate) for no perceptible gain.

@@SlEasyTarget I have been dabbling with laser engravers for over a year now. I learn something new everyday. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

It would be a very dull video. So a short description needs to suffice. The PSU modules are all screwed to a piece of wood with some mirror mounting clips I had lying around, a couple of connector blocks route the wiring and some speaker terminal blocks make it easy to attach leads. All the fancy acryllic cases came with the modules, they are surprisingly badly made, even for low end products. Underneath the wood I glued a chunky PSU taken from an old laptop (19V at 8A, quite powerful) and a big (20A) buck converter to give me a strong 12V supply, this goes through a Power/Voltage meter so I can see the overall load and is then distrubuted to the smaller adjustable converters (which all have individual voltage/power meters too). One of the smaller converters is permanently set to 9V, and has a couple of fixed leads ending in barrel jacks, which is convenient for powering the 'scope and Transistor tester etc. The others are adjustable for whatever project I am working on. There is no negative supply, all the 0V lines are commonly bonded and earthed. I designed and 3d printed a couple of wedge shaped stands for the under the plank, but could have just as easily cut some wood to suit..

I just reviewed it, I did not make it, I don't support it ;-) Details of how to setup etc are all on the designers github page. As is a wiki that may well have the information you need. github.com/bdring/Grbl_Esp32/wiki

The old link to v3.1 was in the description, this was dead but did redirect you to Bart's web store.. Anyway; I've updated it to the current version of this board. Look at the main web store for a number of variations on this board made by Bart; they all look great, and there are versions with more steppers, etc.. www.tindie.com/stores/33366583/

Try setting the spiffs partition scheme to "huge" from the tools menue

@@Mailmartinviljoen thanks! I found that in the docs. Never found a video on the tube that explains that.

Thanks for the comment, this board ended up in my little CNC/laserEngraver. I really should do a new video showing it in use there, it's a very nice tool. I ran out of time to do anything with the big format machine, I have all the parts except a frame, but I need to complete other more important stuff before I drage the box out again. When I do it will probably have a home-built MPCNC version of the same controller in it.

You are very welcome Dex, I'm hoping to drop some drone videos up soon, once I have fixed it :-( and the sun comes out to play.

Yeh that would be really cool

M201 X3000 Y3000 Z3000 E1600 My Config (Reprap) is here: gist.github.com/easytarget/1a0049a1bf20a8e6ffed5be783fc866c#file-config-g-L45 Note that I have 0.9 degree steppers and 9mm belts, I used to have accel. at 2500 for XYZ with the original motors and belts, but it really is something you need to tune for yourself, since it is related to travel, jerk and pressure advance plus hotend.. and my K280 is heavily modded. However.. Assuming you have done a good build; start fairly aggressive for accel travel and jerk on the K280, it's got a lot of potential in that respect.

The only config I have is for my Duet WIFI board, which I fitted from scratch: I never even powered up the provided controller, and the printer itself now has double precision steppers, iR level sensor, E3d titan and v6 hotend+pt1000, a whole bunch of mods that take it away from standard. But for what it is worth I've put them here: gist.github.com/easytarget/1a0049a1bf20a8e6ffed5be783fc866c please note the comments.. Whatever board you are using; do it slowly and in stages. Start with movement, get the printer homing and moving as expected, eg it homes all three vertices reliably, and if asked to move 100mm down in Z moves 100mm (eg step counts and directions correct), dont worry about X and Y yet. Then get the hotend heating, and extruding (calibrate the extruder). Then get it probing with whatever height sensor you use. Work out the offset and get it repeatable. Then calibrate/level (with the bed at temperature.. it tends to expand once hot). Then print.. I re-calibrate before every print, the K280 is spindly and seems to drift off calibration easily.

PS: A more current view of the printer is here: ua-cam.com/video/yVcaO6UiXgI/v-deo.html

I'm getting a duet wifi. Thank you for your help help. I'll try to follow the steps you indicated.. Wish me luck.. 😉

Good Luck! Note that there is a followup board to the DuetWiFi called the Duet maestro; it's cheaper and only for single extruder systems. But it runs the same firmware/controller so the config is identical. Do not forget to halve the steps/mm for the vertices in the config if you are using the supplied (1.8degree/step) motors. And the extruder calibration there is for a Titan (which has a 3:1 gear in it) so you will need to change that radically too ;-)

It started mostly stock, but with a 32bit controller (Duet WiFi) fitted during the initial build. Since then it has got an e3d v6 hotend, with 60W heater and PT1000 sensor. Lots of lighting and fluff to make it prettier I have swapped the leveller for a Precision Piezo Orion unit on a custom effector, with my own designed part coolers and adjustable slider clamps. There is a Titan Extruder driving the bowden, and a 0.9degree stepper + 9mm belt upgrade in progress. I publish the custom bits here: www.thingiverse.com/Nanocube/designs once they are stable enough. This is an expensive upgrade path; I used the K280 as a initial kit of parts to build an idealised printer around.

Laser module came as part of the kit, but it's a very standard module (only oddity is it came with a 24v pwm/supply board, since the 1610 kit uses that, most are 12v. but you often get options) Look for 'laser engraver modules' and you will find a decent selection. Mine is a 5.5W unit and came with the 1610 kit from 'Jacks Store' on Aliexpress, they also sell these (and even more powerful ones, muhahahah) as loose items.

Yep, with the spindle+ER11 chuck I had no space left to the bed unless I mounted the spindle uncomfortably high in the holder. So I decided to reverse the bed mount rails, which actually drops the bed too far, then lift the bed back up as appropriate.I found some (nice) 2020 50mm corner legs on thingieverse, printed them and did the mods. The 100x50x20 spacers for the Y bearings I designed myself (something similar for the drive block too). It still feels strong enough for my purposes. I wont be pushing it's capacity anyway, PCB and laser engraving mostly. I will be trying some smaller 80x50x20 blocks to give 120mm Y travel; even less stable of course, though I hope acceptable for me. Legs are in: www.thingiverse.com/Nanocube/collections/cnc I have been busy on several SCAD designs (bed lifters, spindle top cover/switch/cable relief, laser velocity stack+cable relief, unused spindle/laser holder). I'll post them all to that collection once I have finished some last tweaks and taken some good pictures ;-)

I put the ER11 on my spindle and have very little space to fit any of the tools on it and have room to put a piece of wood on the bed. I solved that problem by using longer 2020 an the X Z. I cannot make it too tall as all the weight is high up and makes it easy to tip over. Please let me know when you have uploaded your mods. Thank you.