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Moab Rock Climber 88
Приєднався 3 сер 2020
I'm a climber who lives in Moab and hopes to share my climbs via POV videos.
Scary Chimney Climbing in Moab, Utah
Watch me run it out and contemplate my decisions on this sketchy climb between two pillars.
Переглядів: 2 375
Відео
Thin Hands Crack Climbing, Abraxas Right, 5.10+, Moab, UT
Переглядів 2,1 тис.8 місяців тому
This climb sports some proper thin hands climbing with some fun face climbing at the end. Definitely a fun route.
Sandstone Crack Climbing, "Texas Two Step" 5.10b, Long Canyon, Moab, Utah
Переглядів 69010 місяців тому
An enjoyable climb that gets wider, and sandier, than expected at the top.
Hand Crack Climbing, "Tequila Sunrise" 5.10+ Long Canyon, Moab, UT
Переглядів 1,3 тис.11 місяців тому
Cruising up a classic hand-crack in a gorgeous location.
Sandstone Trad Climbing "Visible Panty Line" 5.10- Wall Street, Potash Road, Moab, UT
Переглядів 1 тис.Рік тому
A slow lead on a hot summer day where the temps were in the low 100s. The heat and the sandy nature of this climb made it seem tougher than it actually is. The soft Navajo Sandstone on this climb was really scarred in some places from cams catching whips and rope running over it, so I took advantage of the good pro when it was available. Some really neat hand holds and jams on this climb make i...
Summiting Castleton Tower, "North Chimney" Pitch 3 and 4, Castle Valley, UT
Переглядів 780Рік тому
This is me following pitch 3 and 4, which when combined were only about 36 meters. It wouldn't make sense to do both pitches separately unless you were suffering from rope drag from not extending protection. This was a unique pitch because of the exposure and it was easier than the previous pitches.
Offwidth Crack Crux! Pitch 2 "North Chimney" 5.9 Castleton Tower Castle Valley, UT
Переглядів 2,8 тис.Рік тому
My slow lead of the second pitch of North Chimney in the heat of July. The offwidth wasn't that bad and is over after a couple short shuffles upward. I did find that the pitch has many blocks and flakes that you have to put protection in, which is even more worrisome when the cams are placed on slick calcite. Many more blocks and flakes than pitch #1, but all-in-all I think they are probably mo...
Climbing Castleton Tower, "North Chimney" Pitch 1, Castle Valley, UT
Переглядів 781Рік тому
Climbed Castleton Tower in the heat of July where the high temp in Moab for the day was 101F. We started the approach at 4:45am, were climbing around 6, and summited before 9am before the heat of the day. The 1st pitch, the beginning of the 2nd, and the topout were in the sun.
Stemming "Guava Jelly" 5.9+ La Sal Mountains, Moab, UT
Переглядів 195Рік тому
My helmet cam was aimed a little too upward for this climb. This is a very fun sport route up in the mountains next to Moab. The crux involves some technical stemming with your legs and palming with your hands.
Finger Crack Climbing "Astrodad" 5.11+ Wall Street, Moab, UT
Переглядів 7 тис.Рік тому
First person rock climbing beta of the route "Astrodad" at Wall Street in Moab, Utah. I have previously climbed this on top rope after leading "Astrolad", the variation of the climb that goes around the arete. Both routes are worth doing and are similar in difficulty in my opinion. A double set of cams 0.3 to 0.75 with single 1-3 is more than enough for the climb.
Rock Climbing "Pinhead" 5.10b - Wall Street, Moab, UT
Переглядів 1,7 тис.Рік тому
First person rock climbing beta of climbing the route "Pinhead" at Wall Street in Moab, Utah. I have climbed this route before this attempt and have placed more nuts on the route than I do this time climbing it. Route could definitely be done with a single rack of camalots 0.3 to #3 and nuts. A #4 is nice to have.
Bold
were you born in 1988?
I'm exhausted just watching this vertical grunt fest!
Nice how does the 5.9 compare to the 5.9s on Wall Street for example?
Its pretty comparable honestly. Just heady because the crux is unprotected.
Oh My! I suffered... I really did
I added the anchor in the late 90's. Someone had climbed it before me and rappelled off a single piece called a Teton, which is a weird discontinued passive T shaped piece. It would have been really scary to rap off it. I didn't feel right naming it because I didn't actually do the FA. I have never heard of that "Sleeve of a Wizard" name, but I guess it's as good as any. Cool video and good job on the climb!
Thanks for the history, anchor, and kind words!
Sleeve of a Wizard is the name of the route, sitting above Moon Flower Canyon on the south side of the Colorado River. With the new development occuring on Kane Springs it will be interesting to see how access to this and other routes around that area are affected.
Thanks for sharing the route's name. I agree, hopefully climbers, petroglyph seekers, and canyon travelers don't lose access to this area because of the development.
Looks to me like a good old fashioned small nut would’ve been absolutely perfect in that first spot
Woah and just to arrive at some old slings getting the full desert sun every day. Even getting lowered down is spicy.
Scariest part of the climb! That tat is gonna get someone killed.
Awesome vid. What's the name of the route?
It's un-named. Which is too bad because it is a unique route and could be given a really cool name.
Spicey
Welcome to climbing in Arches(so it seems) buddy. I don't know what else to tell you lol. Maybe don't bring a double rack next time?
Dude. That sketchy ass Bolt 😂😂😂😂oh my goodness
As a saxon sandstone climber, and Nice sport climb 😜 jk, nice chminey. Runout is my preferance.
So many good examples of difficult on-the-fly decision/risk assessment here. It's not easy to keep a level head on a climb like this, but you kept it together well. Nice one!
Thanks for the kind words 😊
dope thumbnail!
Dude what did you pull out of your mouth around the 17 min mark lol
The wooden dowel rod that I used to keep the #4 cam retracted. The fishing wire that I used to attach it had broken.
That was a heart-stopping climb! . Your passion for climbing shines through in every video. Keep sharing your adventures .
Cool climb!
go get on the farm... not thin hands but a cool climb
Chunky enough at the top that the wide wasn't too much of a problem. Scary flake next to the chains.
Looks super fun
Nice, enjoyed this, wish there was crack climbing near me!
bro fix your 8
Nice. What was the crux for you?
Why did you skip the bolt at 5 minutes in
It's an old school star drive bolt with a leeper hanger, so it's integrity is extremely suspect, especially in sandstone.
Just like the gym crack climbing, right?
Great vid - just FYI some of those cams look overcammed and could fail. E.g. 3:13 is slightly overcammed, more problematic one is 4:29, also maybe 9:01. May want to double check your cam manuals if you have them for safe camming range
Hi! Thanks for the feedback. I agree with you about all of those placements being over cammed. However, placing a piece over cammed is not a safety issue. The issue with overcammed cams is that it can be problematic to get them out. I specifically remember pushing the cam at 4:29 in and immediately wishing I had put a #1 there instead, but the #2 was so overcammed and bomber I knew it was gonna take a minute to extract.
@@moabrockclimber88 I've been told by AMGA certified guides overcamming can be a safety issue, but just did some research and seems like people debate it. From mountain project seems like BD email suggested it can pop when overcammed
@@sheawells This is simply incorrect. BD cams have a constant camming angle making the force vectors the same on good placements and overcammed placements. As long as the overcammed unit is oriented in the direction of the potential fall they are bomber. However, placing many overcammed cams is a good way to lose a $100 piece of gear, so it's not something to make a habit of and I should be better.
It loses only 10% of strength completely over cammed, so it is not an issue at all. Now if you need that piece later for a long route, then yes it becomes a safety issue if you get it stuck) Also with the way cracks are in this area, overcam is not much of an issue either. When cracks are uneven and flared certain ways then cams are more likely to get stuck. @@sheawells
I really like your videos dude, really like that you write out what you were thinking during the climb.
Looks cool, brutal approach, though. Next time bring a convertible so your belayer doesn't have to get out of the car.
Honeymoon Chimney?
How did this compare to astrodad/astrolad for you? I’ve climbed pinhead a couple times and am looking at astrolad for my next trip.
Moab is the coolest place on the planet. Dino fossils, petroglyphs, splitter cracks everywhere. Were lucky to have it! Sweet climb brother!
Nice, great climbing. I was really engaged. What gives this an 11+ rating? There's a climb I'm projecting that is a 5.10 that seems a lot harder. it's a layback corner offwidth. I was able to read this climb easily through your video. It looks extremely fun
There's a couple very fun, technical footwork moves off the rest ledge that are protected by the bolt. The crack at that point is also sub-tips (no cams would fit, hence the bolt) which makes it feel like a short section of 11+. It's tough to see the footwork and the width of the crack there since it's a gopro vid.
@@moabrockclimber88 Nice. Sounds hard. Watching this, you had me on the edge of my seat yelling at my screen to position your body a certain way at the crux section, and then you did exactly what I was thinking and I started cheering for you as if I was actually there lol. Good work
Damn those cams are spanky new :P
Bravo! I just 2 hung “eat the rich” 5.10 on wall street a few weeks ago. Really impressed to see you climb an 11+ there so calmly. How long have you been trad climbing?
Thanks! I remember "Eat the rich" being really insecure for much of the time, so well done! I've been trad climbing for around 5 years.
Really nice climbing and solid placements. Well done
When I seconded this pitch the leader placed our 5 on the calcite and it fell off before I could take it out😅
Oh man! I could see that happening! I was really glad to have brought the #6 instead of a 5.
Your belayer is awesome!
Definitely! Not all belayers could have kept me off the ground on that initial slip.
Man of warm shower! Try to learn and exercise in an easier way.
Exciting but i started vomitting after watching.
Nice send 👌
Nice send! This looks like a super fun route, that protects pretty well the whole way up, love some of those pods for the bigger cams.
Why did this happen?
Why did what happen?
@@moabrockclimber88 Sorry, I commented on the wrong clip.
Because send
Thanks for sharing! And Hello from Ukraine!
Vomitworthy! Exactly how I feel about offwidths
love to having something like it in europe 😂
Sickkkk
2:40 The birds are very upset at your send
I think they were yelling words of encouragement.
Why place a cam 6 inches above your first one..
Thanks for the question. Mainly because I had already fallen in that spot and came close to the ground. I have also pushed through and not placed a second cam there another time when I climbed "Astrolad". I think there's decent potential for a ground fall, so I err on the side of caution.
Also think small cams in soft sandstone near the ground… Not a bad idea to have 2 in