Відео

I chose to replace the tank entirely. I chose not to take any short cuts. I found the original manufacturer was still in business, located in Bellingham, and I ordered a brand new tank from them. I was even able to adjust the dimensions to allow proper airflow around the tank. I sent them a drawing, they made height adjustments and fabricated a new tank with the fuel sender installed, ready to go. They even added custom mounting brackets to allow mounting without the banding straps.

Hi, Thanks for watching my project videos. This project expanded beyond just replacing the tank, however I can comment on some costs. The tank itself was approximately $3000 USD, including all new hoses. But the Coosa and fibreglass repair was easily another 2000. Not included are the cost of tools and equipment. The Dust Deputy, three different electrical sanders and grinders, plus hundreds of Expendables. The fuel tank was a much simpler project than the cabin restoration.

Hi David. There is space under the triangular forward berth, and I considered doing just that, but I was afraid there was a stringer running down the centre spine, supporting the centre line of the bunk, so I decided not to risk cutting into it. A rectangular hatch would not work. I did purchase a little endoscope inspection camera, and used it to check the drainage between the step and the fuel tank, so all it would take is drilling a 3/4" hole and taking a peek. One day, when the pain of this project subsides, I may do just that. Having another storage option would be GREAT!

Hi Miguel. Thanks for watching my project. I appreciate your thoughts. I live in Vancouver, and am only now nearing completion of the project. There are so many factors and variables, I don’t know if I’d be comfortable doing it on another person’s boat. There are so many compromises. My main concern remains securing the tank without the steel bands, and then the final finish appearance when the deck is fixed. It will be a challenge making it look nice. Of course, having done the job, filmed it and watched every step, the second time would be easier, faster and better. The videos you’re watching are me as an absolute novice. Another factor is that my fish wells were removed prior, creating access under the deck that yours would not. But who knows, life has a way of opening new roads. I never expected I’d be totally re-wiring my boat, and I did. Then one day, a fellow like you asked me to re-wire his boat - and it turned out great. I do enjoy the work, however. I’m happy to help you in any way I can. Do you have pictures?

Thanks, for watching my DIY adventure. The radar tower came from fish on sports. It’s a uni-arch with captain’s package and LED lights. www.fishonsports.com

Thanks for watching. I hope that there’s some useful info in these videos. I have to say that using a mitre on the cut in the deck was really helpful when it came time to repair the hole. If you do straight cuts, it’s a lot more difficult to set the lid back in place.

Thanks for watching, and all the best on your project.

Thanks for the response, Happylife. I do have a acetone container that I keep my fin rollers in, and that works well. But you’re saying that you can re-use roller sleeves? I have a cleaning station with acetone and a chip brush for cleaning the fin rollers before I place them in the clean acetone container, and once that brush gets resin or gelcoat on it (without setting) it never really comes clean, and I eventually replace it after a while. I’m not convinced that I could clean a sleeve enough to use again. Also, at the time I was filming these episodes, Acetone was $100 per gallon, so I was desperately trying to conserve acetone. In the beginning, I tried cleaning and re-using mixing cups and roller trays, to minimal success. Once little flakes contaminated fresh resin, I felt it compromised the lay-up, so for the most part, I don’t re-use them, unless they come out perfectly clean. I never used large rollers and sleeves again, instead I bought bulk packs of the 3” sleeves. I saved a lot of $$ buying boxes.

Does the acetone remaining in the sleeve negatively affect the resin? I’ve read multiple places that acetone is not a good thinner for resin.

Of course I know that. What exactly are you referring to? I follow carefully the waxed / non-waxed protocol. I used laminating resin for all layers, then used waxed gelcoat for curing. Later in the project, I start adding wax to resin for some things, but normally, I’m using waxed gelcoat for the cure layer. Some of the sequences have time distorted, and the editing may appear that I’m out of order, but no, I follow the wax / unwax procedure. There are many little mistakes that I do make however, but wax isn’t one of them.

It is worth noting that I do frequently run a bit of sandpaper over still unwaxed layers to knock off sharp bits and poky pieces, but I follow the order.

@@diyprojecttrophyfibreglass7892 No worries, your commentary said waxed gel coat that’s all.

@@russellfaith8959that’s what I used. Waxed gelcoat. That’s what I showed. I re-watched the video. I don’t see where there’s confusion, but thanks for watching. I appreciate it.

Welcome back! Thanks for watching. I’ll be adding more episodes over the coming days.

Thanks for your interest. I just uploaded Episode 4 of the Fuel Tank Project. I will endeavour to release some more soon. I hope it's worth the wait, but I did complete restoring the gelcoat on the dash at the end of Fall last year. I think you're referring to the dash panel with gauges etc., but I have to say that was done prior to undertaking the restoration. The dash panel was done when I upgraded the Yamaha main engine. However, the mess from the fibreglass project required extensive cleaning and some work with the switches and panels, so I will try to film a quick video showing how I did the dash and switch panel. The fibreglass repair on the dash, however did get restored, and there will be a video showing that process. I have footage for many many many steps in the restoration. Editing and Voice-over takes me a long time, but I'm due for some free time while the boat is in winter storage. Thanks for watching.

@@diyprojecttrophyfibreglass7892 thanks mate. I’ve enjoyed your vids. We have a 2002 WA also, and I’m wanting to refresh the cockpit etc

Hi. There are so many places water can enter the under deck. Along the panels in the cockpit, through the rod holders by the battery doors, through the battery door seal, through the engine well hatch, through the fuel tank inspection hatch. Water can creep along cables and wires. Water can enter through the plastic slots that support the rear bench seats. As for fish lockers … yes I removed them. You can see footage under the deck in the fuel tank episode. I am very pleased that I removed them, and it really helped when it came to re-wiring the boat and during the fuel tank project. The lockers were not a source of leaks, they were holding huge amounts of water, often bloody fish water, that didn’t empty properly, even with a new Macerator pump. Accessing the plumbing and wiring under the deck was so difficult, that I changed my approach, and removed all plumbing, and old wiring. I have replaced every hatch with new, and re-sealed everywhere possible. I do not use the rear bench seats, so I am even considering glassing over the plastic inserts that support the bench. I was able to repair the cracks in the plastic insert temporarily, by using Sikaflex and marine-tex to repair the cracks and seal the flange.

@@diyprojecttrophyfibreglass7892 thank you so much for your answer. I think i have a big work with Sikaflex on mine bayliner 😂

I just bought the same boat now and wondering regarding the aft scupers valves,i saw you have instell those ones wigh the floating ball,with the previous one you had a problem with entering water on the deck? I am thinking to put a yamaha 200f that is 500 lb,might be a problem the weight?

If you are referring to the plate in the port side battery box, it’s a plywood reinforced plate for my kicker bracket.

Thanks, Joseph. I’ll try that for sure! Thanks for your suggestion - everyday is a learning experience.

Hi Danny, thanks for the comment. My first boat was a 12’ aluminum that fit in my garage, my second was a 17’ Campion bow rider. My passion is salmon and halibut fishing in the Pacific Northwest, and to some extent, sturgeon fishing on the Fraser River. I fish alone mostly, so I can manage a 21’ boat easily enough. I can sleep on it, and take extended overnight trips. I started small, and gradually customized the boat to have the best components possible and removed items that caused unwanted maintenance and cost, like cutting out the fish lockers that filled with water and burned out Macerator pumps, adding secondary steering so I could steer alone while fishing etc. My financial reality in retirement will mean that I need a solo platform that won’t bleed me dry. Thanks for watching, I hope your project goes well. Cheers.

David. I don’t follow. Can you explain?

@DIY Project Trophy: Fibreglass & Gelcoat Repair to get the glue off the fiberglass.

Hey Chip, As I stated in this little teaser, it was the most boat I could afford, and it’s far surpassed my expectations. It’s taken me to offshore salmon and halibut fishing, camping, diving, sturgeon fishing and more since 2010. It was the ceiling in what I could afford, and I’ve improved it every year. Don’t get me wrong, there’s a long list of things I don’t like, but I’ve been able to alter many of them. Considering I fish alone the majority of the time, on a modest boat budget, the Trophy platform has been excellent for me. As with any boat over time, if you were to add every dollar spent, and repurpose it up front, you could get an improved boat, but when you have to take baby steps, you find the best hull suited to your needs and available cash, and you start the adventure. As I get closer to retirement age, I know that I have a great boat suited to my situation. Sure, it’s a little small for big offshore, but I accept that. When I finally complete this crazy repair project, I will show some the details I changed over the years, addressing many of the Trophy shortcomings and how I modified them and why.

Thanks Elijah, but I tried all types of scraping. I tried putty knives, margin trowel, paint scraper etc. the issue was that the glue is liquified and the surface is un-even, so the glue paste just smears around into the rough surface. The only thing that truly worked was wiping the liquified goo with paper towel. Once it dried and became solid, it hardened, so I was bound and determined to sand the last bits away. Scraping that goo was only effective in thick patches.

Thanks David. Absolutely correct, but in my case, I felt the work to be mainly cosmetic in the fuel tank area, regarding the tabbing. The stringers remained intact so I just added two layers of CSM for added protection. There was little to no gelcoat anywhere under the deck, so I added a couple layers for added protection, prior to gelcoat. Looking back, it would have also been much easier to use 1708, but it was my first attempt. CSM is a pain. Excellent point though, so when I did rebuild the floor in the cabin, all my tabbing was 1708. Thanks for the comment.