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What is the reasoning behind filling the holes with clear epoxy first before filling them up again with silica-mixed epoxy? Thanks.

This seems like a permanent solution. What happens if you need to remove the hardware in the future?

How about just using a JB Weld Marine Epoxy syringe to fill the hole?

I’d recommend using an aircraft technique to make the bond area of the top larger.

wow, so much work. as a beginner i would just use 3mm butyl lines.

"Really strong box"... 😏

hows it holding up 6 years later?

Hi. Do you use 1708 or 450GSM fibreglass?

Instead of the 406, I'd use the 404 High Density Adhesive Filler. It's always better for hardware and worth the extra $$ (but ask around the dock. No one ever uses all of it.) I learned that you can use baking flour (the terrible Robin Hood type stuff everybody has that lasts forever). I've used Kruteuz Pancake Mix -- but for sea kayaks. Seems very strong but the forces are much less on a kayak. (and once it's saturated with epoxy it's inert. I've got 20 year old kayaks with this on it no problem.) I wouldn't over worry packing holes like this. A narrow stick would clear any bubbles and pack the hole. Another thing about movement. It's always better to install hardware that has two fasteners (as in the video) instead of one. One will work loose more quickly than two working together. And if your deck is a bit too weak. Build up an area larger than the hardware base with layers of glass top and underneath. Might not look good but it'll be strong. Whenever I apply patches several layers thick I never do them one at time, I stack them up on plastic (construction plastic is great) saturate them, rake off some of the excess. Apply some epoxy where it goes and then lay it on; roll it or use a plastic scraper to squeegee off the excess. (This is also great for patching a big gaping hole. 8 layers of 6 ounce glass is reasonably stiff. You'll still have to use a filler. By applying all the glass at once you've made it simple. Punch a hole in your boat? If you can keep the area dry for half an hour I can patch it up good enough to cross an ocean.) I don't know why so many UA-camrs apply one layer of glass at a time.

Thanks for the good video. And cheers with New Glarus beer!

Here is my variation on this good approach, to achieve maximum strength... [1] Use a countersink bit to cut through the top skin and vertically down through the balsa core to the bottom skin. [2] Use a Dremel 115 Carving Bit to remove further balsa core, expanding the cavity and roughening the inside surface of the skins. Then vacuum out all balsa dust. [3] If re-attaching hardware where there is an existing hole through the deck: either seal the lower skin with (a) tape from below or (b) a small plug of epoxy putty from above. [4] Use a large syringe to fill the oversized cavity with a mixture of epoxy resin and fine chopped glass fiber: some of the epoxy resin will be absorbed into the balsa, increasing the concentration of glass fiber in the hole (no need to drain the cavity and then add thickened epoxy); keep adding from the syringe until no more epoxy is absorbed. [5] On larger sailboats, where there will be a very strong side-load on the hardware & fasteners - reinforce the fiberglass top skin by epoxying a shaped and pre-drilled 1/4" G10 riser plate over the plugged cavities (the G10 riser will need to be painted with polyurethane for UV protection).

I am going to build this for the overflow spillway of my waterfall I am building. I need a custom tank in a weird shape and I dont have a sheet metal shop. This looks like it will work since its 100% water tight with all that epoxy

Butyl Tape is my prefernce. Informative video.

A big Thanks for your super video. Well worked out. I'm going to do that tool.

was that 10KG of epoxy or what? :)

What kind if boat is that in the opening scenes?

Thank you, you gave me a great idea to replace the shaft bushing on my sailboat. Thanks again👏👏

after all those material costs, might as well buy a 200 gallon tank.

If you size the split collar to the shaft diam… how do you know it will fit the diam of the brass bearing housing well enough to push it out? I have. 1.25” shaft diam but no idea of the bearing od. Once boat is hauled i can measure it… but until then how do I know the iron pipe od wont be too big or small to push out the bearing?

This is way too complicated for me, turning a 5 minute job into a chore. Just use a good sikaflex and be done with it. That resin will crack under load imo.

This is a great instructional YT, especially for a new boat owner like me. You could be even more effective if you provided names and brands and links of hardware and epoxy and such. Thank you.

Brilliant !,

Would you please inform me about the sealant used in this application?

Outstanding tank creation videos. I assume that thickening epoxy for the fitting threads must be a well known boat mating technique, but not sure how to make it.

How have the tank held up?

Interesting technique. Like the look of those cleats too. Thank you.

your work is perfect. i loved it i need to have more about 5000 litre for commercial use can i make it

Have you ever tried to under drill the final hole by a 1/16"? You will need a power driver to place the final bolt, but the tight fit will virtually guarantee zero water intrusion. It will also make placing the nuts much easier as the friction will prevent the bolt from turning as you tighten the nut.

Hi bud, what grit sander did you use to do the final sanding ?

Hi bud, what epoxy did you use ?

Using your tool and technique would it be feasible to use the new bearing to push out the old bearing then split the old bearing using a Dremel to get it off of the shaft?

Hello, where can found a book with these ilustrations? are so good. Congratulations

tks

good 👏👏👏👏👏🇧🇷💯

What size and year O'day is this? thanks

Inspection and cleaning port?

great idea i will do this

Excellent video. Thanks.

IT'S LITERALLY THE SAME PRICE TO JUST BUY A TANK. Epoxy alone is going to be $200.

Would this method work to make a black water tank?

why u dont show all 1

I love UA-cam. We have all seen repair jobs that were done incorrectly. In this case if the hole was not filled with epoxy first, you could over time ruin your deck. Before UA-cam that was probably the rule rather than the exception. For non-handy people such as myself, UA-cam is a god send. Great video by the way. I'm installing a new traveller in a different location that the old one so this helpled a lot.

Excellent video. Subscribed.

you know it's serious when the festool track saw comes out

Woodglut has a lot of plans to choose from.

Excellent!!! I love learning the RIGHT way to do tasks. UA-cam University for the win! Thanks for the well-produced step-by-step. Much appreciated!

Great videos, I've just made a custom diesel tank this way.

Great vid

Wow thanks was gonna build one with plastic you saved me !

👍👍🙂