Відео

Why remove the battery and plate, just put the parts from beneath.

Curse you 2017 Mark!!

Very professional video.

Great stuff as usual Mark, thanks Mate!

I fitted forks from a 2005 Yamaha R1. They are the exact same length as the originals so that if you make the fork yokes to the correct dimensions the steering geometry need not change. That alone is the best chassis upgrade you can do to these Tontis. These Guzzi forks were never good, not even in 1983. These bikes handled well due to the frame, not the suspension components. Also, if you retain the R1's 'Blue Spot' (or Gold Spot) calipers you can also retain the linked brakes with the original master cylinder. Oh, that and the sidestand from the Lemans mk4. Just my 2 cents that no-one asked for.

Standard is to use one fork seal, however a lot of people just use two because they're using the wrong size fork seals: while it's often called a 35mm fork, the stanchions actually are 34,74mm in diameter. So when using a 35mm fork seal, of course the forks are always leaking a bit, hence people are using two. Get the proper size, then you only need to use one, as intended. Same problem when using aftermarket clip-on handlebars; 35mm handlebars are often overtightened in a desperate attempt to stop them from moving on the 34,74mm stanchions.

Amazed the LeMans still has the funny cartridge dampers. Thought that was just the small bikes. Good to see this all coming together. Grand roll out next Spring will be excellent. Reminds me, need to go and drain the ethanol petrol from my Guzz.

A wise choice on double fork seals. I did the same. Keep up the good work!

Always like your videos thanks for the update 👍

Always a great watch Mark, thanks! She's looking good.

She's looking great Mark! 👌

Do you have any information you can share on the rectangular headlights and what model of FIAT they were used on? Mine too is in poor shape. Thanks in advance! Bike is looking great.

Fantastic video as usual Mark. Love the detail!

Getting there - thanks for the update!

Seems crazy to redo the carbs.. Looks super clean to begin with...

Pilots need to go bigger I think.

Nice bike and tutorial . Never rode a Guzzi , had an SF2 for years though . Subbed as you are worth watching , thank you .

Keep up the good work!

I still love those bikes.

Home straight!

such a simple design

My LM III’s didn’t have dog leg levers. They were a bit extra Long and had excellent leverage. They might have had a plastic sleeve over the lever, too. Also, my LM III’s had a very handy enriched lever on the left side of the engine under the carb. Very handy and short cable run. Sadly, I don’t the parts are available anymore. Really love the way you make up ‘bespoke’ spindles, bolts, etc.

Thats a decent effort on the seat mechanism - I've always thought it a bodge by Guzzi.

Hi Mark, what would you recommend to bring the seat back to life, mine is looking a bit grey and tired

Hmmmm.........not sure repeatedly wrenching open carbs with accelerator pumps, sending neat petrol into the carbs AND cylinders, is a good thing.

Ciao Mark, complimenti per il canale...❤️🦅🍻

Excellent. Not quite sure, did you use baking powder and superglue on the cracked plastic parts?

Nice you abandoned the ‘cage racer’ project. I’ve owned multiple LM III’s, as well as a I, and a V. I still own the 1990 LM V, btw. The III is probably my favorite of the 3 variants. Too many details to list here, but the aesthetics were a big reason. I’ve had them completely apart and learned many lessons. Won’t bore you with a list, but I’ll leave you with a huge one that I hope you never have to deal with. Around this era, MG casings were known to occasionally be porous. I learned this the hard way. A persistent oil drip from the weep hole at the bottom of the engine/gearbox joint had me convinced the rear main seal was leaking. After replacing the seal twice and still seeing oil leaking, I was flummoxed. That’s when I learned about the porous case issue. Out came the engine and I pressurized the crankcase with air while the bell housing area was full of water. To my amazement I saw a stream of air bubbles. A bit of epoxy to cover the leak, and it stayed completely dry for years until I sold it to a very happy new owner. Enjoy the bike. Some of those gearboxes can be extremely clunky. Just get used to it. Also, make sure you have the contact patch of the final drive gears adjusted. It’s a trick operation best entrusted to someone who’s already done many of them. I’ve had two final drives self destruct because they weren’t set correctly at the factory. It’s a big fucking deal. A very big fucking deal. But once set, it’ll be good almost indefinitely. Ride safe.

Ooof the trickiest bit!! Had to get the sewing machine out on mine.

Really getting there now. Linked definitely the right way to go. I’ve never had a problem jumping from Japanese bikes to the Guzz.

Nearly there now!!

Mark, I can't thank you enough. I am in the process of doing a restomod on a Mk 2 Le Mans. this video has been my "Bible" for wiring the Domino switches. I don't think it would have been possible for me to adapt them without your clear & concise tutorial. Absolutely top notch stuff! The rest of the series has been very helpful as well. Thanks again.

When the Moto Guzzi engineer decided to fit the brake distributor next to the back wheel he was thinking about how good he looked in his silk shirt, whether his hair was optimally styled and casting a glance across to the secretary. The British winter was nowhere in his mind at all.

The bevel drive should have a molybdenum additive from memory.

Great progress, very interesting build. I love that you kept the Guzzi original.

I had a MK 2 Le Mans . It had a few annoying traits. The throttle cables would randomly puul too far out of the carb and get stuck out on one side only leading to rough running. The points needed setting very often or would run rough, hopefully an electronic setup would fix that. The exhausts were painted black and the paint would burn off and steel rust, chrome would have been nice. The diff would leak oil even after a new seal. The switch gear, indicators etc were very dodgy. The fairing mounts at the headlight area were very flimsy and prone to cracking. The mirrors were ordinary, so I ended up putting handlebar end ones on , they worked ok. It was such a fun bike. Be careful changing the oil filter must be tight mine came off and seized the engine. Enjoy.

An elegant solution to the electrical controls on the handle bars for sure. 👍👍.

Thanks for posting. Could I ask... who did you use for the vapour blasting service please?

Now I can say MOTO GUZZI is better than BMW when it comes to design, durability & practicality. ❤

Do u need to clean after vapour blasting as in bead,etc?

Why ali washers&not copper?

Ah the odds and sods! Always the hardest bits to get all finished off but the bits that make the biggest difference. Good to see things all coming together! Definitely stick with the linked brakes, they're ace!

Your work is always so neat. I keep looking at the home built wiring harness on my project and though it all works, it could be tidier 🤔

Hi Mark, I am very much enjoying your work, great project. Many years ago, before the internet gave so much help and information, I oiled a speedo and ruined the clock. The rotating cable migrated the oil up into the mechanism and the needle fluctuated wildly. I can dimly remember that I should have wiped the top 6 inches dry. Hope this helps you avoid what was for me an expensive mistake. Thanks again for a great series of videos.

Hi Mark,, do you use the original jet setup in the carbs? Some people say that is too lean because of legal regulations, especially with the LM3. BR Jürgen

Perfekt Job!

Superb. great instructive filming/annotations and voice overs. Just phenomenal. Makes me want to have another crack at a restoration.

Great job.

let me try again : i threw my lego switches into the bin and mounted CEV206 (left) and 205 (right) switches; they have cast aluminum bodies and sturdy electric interior; the wiring is mostly identical to the lego switches; tommaselli offers clutch and twistgrip handlebar clamps into which the switches can be mounted; the CEV206 can also be mounted into a separate cradle; if you search the internet in Italy you will find these switches used and NOS at fair prices good luck and keep rolling

Enjoying the build, filming and no-nonsense voice overs Mark. Great stuff!