Відео

The point of that, is to ensure edge retention and proper heat treatment was done. If heat treat was done correctly, wood is no match for the hardened steel and will not dull the edge. Hence, still being able to cleanly cut the paper after several whacks.

@@v_forged_custom_knives okay Ron Popeill.. set it and forget it

? I'd rather the knife take damage here with me, than to have it chip or glint once it's in the customers hands.

I heated it to just beyond magnetic. For some reason with Mr. Volcanos parks AAA, I seem to always get a ball of fire. Very rarely does it happen with the parks 50. I need to get a more reliable reading though, maybe a heat treat oven :)

Most quench oils flash at 300F. Im guessing the big ol cleaver heated the oil more than usual.

Yes sir, the steel is 5160, so I use a medium fast oil, parks AAA

Thank you :)

While it is aesthetically pleasing and I am trying to hone in my hamon line skills. I thought it would serve well for this particular type of knife. Being a meat cleaver that is going to take a lot of impact and stress from chopping. Having a spine in the mid to high 30s HRC will hopefully make it last forever, if the owner properly takes care of it.

Thank you! Rutland fireplace mortar is what I used. It was the first time using it, and it worked well

Thank you :) appreciate it. Working on a few others from that same Damascus billet.

Lol ouch. Kerosene is simply used to coat the steel and burn off in the forge and leave behind a small layer of carbon, to prevent any oxidation. I sometimes do it, sometimes don't, same with WD-40. One thing I always do, is flux. I'm not rich, and 15n20/1084 ain't cheap. So Id rather not risk delaminations. And while I would love to forge everything to shape, (which I used to do, and can do) I live in an HOA community, in a culdesac and have gotten complaints about the noise. Hydraulic press and grinding are far less loud. So in lieu of not being fined, I stick to stock removal of the shapes. Clip point wasn't my design. But rather the customer wanted that shape, and so I did as they asked.

Sorry about your griping neighbors. That sux. Kerosene or WD40, I was just saying if it is clean, why put something else on it that might contaminate it? Im on limited income so I cant waste money either. New Jersey Steel Baron is where I get my pattern welded steel materials....also Speedy Metals for brass, copper and other stuff. I use my press mostly to forge to shape, the hammer is just for mild adjustments these days. Im fortunate as I live in a densely populated neighborhood as well, but Im the neighborhood fix it guy/mechanic so no one complains or no more fixes for them. Forge On!!!

Thank you, sir. To you as well. Those are some sweet, repurposed steel knives

Thank you sir!!

Normally, for a full blown Bowie, yeah. But customer wanted a camp knife, with a clip point. Hopefully he doesn't try to stab through a barrel lol

Thank you! I appreciate the feedback! I'm glad you enjoyed watching the process

Thank you! Idk if you noticed, but on the third and final forge weld, I restacked it incorrectly for how I wanted to draw it out. Almost wasted a good amount of steel and hours of time. But I was able to square it up and successfully draw it out without shearing the welds

Said the spelling police with absolutely no forging skill whatsoever. Thank you so much for policing spelling on the interweb. Super important job! Now go do something productive, you might respect yourself in the morning.

I'm sure the fallen warriors in Valhalla will forgive my dyslexia and appreciate the steel quality and versatility. But in light of being grammatically and historically correct, I'll edit the title.

Nah, there's no need, I prefer my knives super brittle. Lol. Yeah I did, just forgot to record it. Since it was a quick knife for myself for work. I only did two 1 hour cycles at 400. Normally I do the standard two 2 hour cycles. Usually at 400, depending on the type of knife

Thank you good sir

Thanks man :)

Thank you!

depending on what kind of handle material and type of guard material. roughly 175 with handmade and handstitched leather sheath. Damascus blade would be a bit more because of the time and cost of materials. Everything is forged here in my garage lol.

Thanks bro :) quick little knife for my dad's Best Friend.. I appreciate the compliment

Thank you!

Was not expecting that reveal, very nice!

I usually go to 600. This case, I went to 600 and then for fun, hit it with 1000 and buffed it.

@@v_forged_custom_knives It looks good. I always get weird etching at a high polish. Keep up the good work.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thats why the prep is so important on copper damascus. got to make absolutely certain the copper is completely sealed into the billet. Welding that small bit took more than 30 minutes. mainly because copper does not take the weld well at all. When drawing it out, you cannot let temp get above 1600. if it does, have to let it cool down a bit before squeezing or hammering on it. I'll find some of the videos I took on the process!

It's basically a combination of not wanting to disrupt the pattern so I can get the uniform pattern on the bevels. But the biggest reason, is I live in a cul-de-sac and my neighbors would hate me if I was hammering away lol.