Відео

What happened

Great videos. I'm currently watching every minute of the dd videos. Do you have any photos of the wiring to the test switch or to the upper portion of the cab to the light fixture and speaker?

Nooooooo! Glad your ok, it's sad to see your R2 like this. Don't give up! Love from the UK, and fellow builder...

I'm glad to hear you are OK physically. As someone on the outside looking in, I have always been interested in 3D printing and every time I see a cool project like yours, it gets me motivated to try my luck. My 3D printer is waiting for me right now in the basement. I ordered some upgrades for my printer and am going to try my hand at making it work a little better. So far the only thing I have printed is a part to help hold the X axis cable in place, and that came on the thumb drive. When I look at your project, it makes me appreciate how much knowledge you have gained over your journey. I hope you don't give up. It is easy to get discouraged when building such a complicated project but just think about all the people who are inspired by all your hard work. There is an old saying, "If it was easy, everyone would do it." Good Luck and God Bless.

I am wanting to go the relay route as well since it makes it super simple to make sure regen power isn't building up in the boards. Do you know what kind or brand of relay you used?

HOLY CRAP!! 30 seconds with my dremel and this solved the same problem I was having with my battery boxes. I don't know why your video suddenly appeared in my feed this morning but I'm guessing it's a Christmas miracle. Thank you!!!!

Hate to see this for both of you. Kind of taking the weathered look to the extreme, lol. Something to think about if you do decide to repair or build again. I just recently started watching your build series of R2, taking note of the problems you had with PETG or maybe it was PLA+. I am just now gathering supplies to start my own R2 build journey, I am going with ASA filament though. I have an Artillery Sidewinder X1 and recently purchased a CR10 S5, so hopefully if that printer is not a turd i will be printing the large Michael Badelleys Mark III files on the 500x500 bed and some of the smaller stuff on the Artillery. Anyway the thing to think about i wanted to mention. With ASA filament, which is supposed to be like ABS, not easy to print, I am printing a few little things on my X1 not R2 related just to check settings and how the filament performs. Starting out, my print was looking similar to yours with the gobs of filament being left behind on the part and nozzle. I started slowing down the extruder speed on the printer as it was printing. Went from 100% slowly down to 60%, watching the print quality get better every adjustment. @ 60% i have a pretty clean print. Im sure all printers have their own nuances to figure out but this may be worth looking into. I also just bought a metal plate from Amazon that sticks to the glass bed, the part seems to be holding so far but i have not printed anything over 4 hrs where your prints started warping. Just something to think about, Hope you & R2 are doing better

That's sadly the normal risk of moving it arround. and showing him at con. Can be damage through transport, driving him arround, or those little gremlins of childreen banging and pushing him arround ( specialy the Holos ). I know it can be devastating but the important thing is not to give up. for those damage sadly, it would need a full remake yea, it's almost undeniable. but for smaller cracks, it can he hidden with the weathering except if you want him clean. mine got through way worse than that like Leg breaking, ankle dislocking itself, faceplant with almost the whole body destroyed out of carelessness. Your damages there are quite easy to fix. would be a great lost to stop after a small banging like that. Hope to see more from you

I love the robbie the robot r2 hybrid

This sucks to see after the great videos of the event. Glad you're ok and R2 can always be repaired. Never fun having the feelingof going backwards, but the plus side is that it was after the event. Thanks for sharing your videos!

😢

Tom, I'm heartbroken for you. I was so excited watching the videos of the event, then I saw this. I'm glad to hear you weren't seriously injured, though the emotional toll will undoubtedly linger. It's hard to see past the broken parts and the marred paint at the moment, but the knowledge that you have and the experiences you've gained are still perfectly intact. You are fortunate to have those at your disposal for when you decide the time is right to revisit and rebuild. It will be a different experience to be sure, but we'll all be here to watch and learn with you. Hang in there!

How on earth did you manage to snap the arms off?

I feel your pain 😢 The amount of times I've lost control of my R2D2 and slammed him into a wall. Didn't realize how easy 3d print crumbles. Hey, at least you can just click re-print broken item and it's all good again 👍 Keep up the good work.

The moove controller battery isn't only longer but also larger and don't fit at all in the Nav controller. So yes, having the right one is very important

Very cool project!

It took me like four attempts to get my nav controllers; gamestop insisted on shipping the move ones (they had them labeled incorrectly on their side). Made the same battery swap you did early this year; working great for me so I think you'll be fine with this change (no need for larger batteries).

Looks great, Tom! Enjoy taking him out and about. Leaving the dome unfinished will make for a great talking point - folks are often surprised to learn there are 3D printed droids, and yours will be a prime example of how much effort it takes to make it not look 3D printed - but that it CAN be done! Keep us posted and hopefully you'll be able to get some pics/footage of the experience.

Are you planning to weather? Because if so I think the paint differences will be a non-issue like you said. Nice progress as always. :)

Looking good! I just started gluing my Mk III body together and can tell I'm going to need to do some body body work to get all the seams just right. Even the slightest warping shows up. Considering the mkIV dome to replace my V2 that i started awhile ago

I remember a guy who occasionally came to our arcade who was really good at Tempest. He'd easily get past the invisible levels. I think it was light green afterwards. This was the only game in the arcade that would keep the high scores when it was unplugged overnight. I saw your crossed hands technique for firing in the reflection - cool idea for the right-handed. Thank you!

Old Video, but any idea if the Tucson bridge works with Light Guns?

how do you protect yourself from the things trying to flip on you?

Thanks for the insight - could you provide the source of the „back plate hole part“ mod? I might use this as well…

You could also try to thave the block hinges (The part screwed in the body holding the little hinge) further into the body, Screwing it thighter so the door would slide into its place

DO YOU HAVE THE CAD MEASUREMENTS OF THESE PEOPLE IN CARBONO? CAD FILES?

DO YOU HAVE THE CAD MEASUREMENTS OF THESE PEOPLE IN CARBONO? CAD FILES?

It's been a pleasure watching your builds, I wanna build my own Astromech one of these days, so your videos have been very motivation for me.

Hey Tom! It's great to see you back at R2. Using a wire linkage for the modified door hinge DOES require a bit more hogging out of the lower passthru holes, but if you've got those beautiful blinking lights going on in there, it'll be a more than adequate distraction! Regarding the hinges, perhaps it would be better if the door holes were elongated a bit to provide some positioning flexibility? I might consider making that update at some point, or if you're able to come up with a good remix before I do, let me know. I'm glad to hear you've got an upcoming droid event to attend - have fun! Often that's the motivation that keeps us building. Cheers!

Looks great Tom 👍

Nice series, thanks for making them. I just removed those wires and went with the nitehawk-sb USB toolhead with only 4 wires. I do have some issues but will try with the ebb2209 USB when I get that. Love that gantry, so nice. Someday I might switch.

is this version 3

Great work,keep going! You’ve been really helpful sharing your build and this has greatly helped me in mine. Don’t get too hung up on the details! R2 is not perfect.

Getting so close now! great job dude, it's looking fantastic.

Always enjoy seeing your updates. The mod for the arms works well. I changed mine out. I know all the detail work takes a lot of time. Stay at it, you'll soon be there.

Is this the Mr Baddeley MK3 version?

Tom, what screws did you use to attach the Toolhead PCB? Did it require any sort of standoff? I can't find that step in any of Matterhackers instructions or the Voron 2.4 Rev C manuals Thanks in advance for any advice!

What are those yellow wire connectors. The one you pointed to where the dome motor connects to. It appears you use a medium gauge wire to your 24v system. Do you really need that heavy of a gauge? I'm about to re-wire my R2 to make it easier to remove the board from the R2. I think those yellow wire connectors are way to go.

Thanks for this series; there’s not a lot of info out there on these units. I picked up a couple of these and it’s very helpful to see how they are put together, etc.

I dontget what your shooting

i had no idea you could kill the flippers once they hit the top without a super zapper or without firing down on a spike as they approached. Thanks for that. OTOH, I think you just ruined the game for me! lol

My dad was describing his favorite game to me, I showed him this, and he went on about how much fun he had w this, thanks for uploading!

Just found out this series, though I landed on a later video first. I have the v2 Dome in and and body printed, yet haven´t assembled any of it . I doubted about too many things (even about my sanity 😅) To this day me or my printer make mistakes that can be frustrating.... Sudenly I don´t feel so alone. I have a lot to print and many videos to watch! Thank you so much for documenting your journey! Cheers!!

Carbon fiber looks great Hope you got it printing. May I ask about your acceleration

3:46 this is called parallel. If the speakers are 8-ohms each, the pair needs to be treated as a 4-ohm speaker because they are in parallel, else you will burn out the speakers or their amplifier. Impedance Matching is important for MPTT.

currently astromech is down, is there another way to ge the v3 firmware.

Is it haed to build?

Also, the temperature of the chamber has not been an issue with PLA under normal conditions. I have the exhaust fan installed, but rarely use it to cool the chamber when printing PLA.

Long time Voron owner here. Progress is looking good. The drag chain method is the vanilla route as you likely know. If you want to avoid the weight of the drag chain, the umbilical paired with the bowden is a great way to go. I have that setup on another printer, no issues after hundreds of hours of use. Dragging against the top is not an issue with my printer, but I do not have a spring steel wire. IMHO, the wire is not necessary as a capicorn bowden tube provides sufficient rigidity. Like you said, if it doesn't work, you can change it.

Are you building another one? AWESOME!!!