Відео

Fantastic guide :) Can i ask what rotary device you are using in the buffalo water bath?

do you have a full schematic

works

What is your input voltage and current?

Für alle, die sich fragen, baking soda ist Natron!

Love this video. Would you mind sharing what temperature control tank your using for your chemistry? Is it a Buffalo Appliance? Thanks!

Thanks! Realy helpful!

Wow Bro. This place hear would have blown you out , yeah? It looks so old school and free.

I can actually get 50 rolls of 35 mm with 1 L of unicolor film developer and it only cost $42 max

Hello, how is grain size compared to budget color films, kodak gold, ultramax, fuji 400?

Nice video! And what scanner are you using?

Can you not just put protectan in the original container of the part c developer after every time you take a bit to make the solution?

For hand developing C-41, I have found using stop bath useful. It is not necessary by any means, as bleach is acid enough to stop any developing. But it will make quite lot of gas, and bleach leaking in water bath is not nice. Using acetic acid stop will eliminate this stop, and as CH3COOH costs almost nothing, and is available anywhere, this has been useful for me in controlling the development times precisely when developing by hand in tanks. Just use acetic acid, and never citric acid based "non-stink" products meant for black & white, such as Ilford Ilfostop or Fomacitro. Some people say this is OK, but one known photo chemist from Kodak was very strict in this matter, saying it is not compatible with any color process. I don't know the exact reason, but I assume some citrates would probably interfere the process somehow. Storing part C in small vials has worked for me for many years. This is the chemistry I normally use for C-41, and has always produced very good results, and for a reasonable price compared with some small kits. Calculating development time increases by film processed is a waste of time, as it is virtually impossible to control the process at one second accuracy when developing in a tank. I use one liter batches, and develop not more than 12 rolls of 135-36 with each. For the first 6 rolls, I use the standard 3:15 development time, and for films 7-12, the time will be 3:30. I have used Kodak style agitation, with quite hard shaking, as color film practically can't be overagitated as B&W film can. 15 seconds of agitation, and 5 times, once per second every 30 seconds afterwards. Remainder of time the tank will stay in 37.8°C water bath controlled by sous vide and a thermometer.

Thanks for great video! Did you also reuse it? or just one time use?

Great video! Have you tried replenishing these chemicals? Struggling to find replenishment numbers.

So why not just simply spray butane in the dev part bottle every time you get some? Just get my kit today.

Thank you again Ben, this video helped me mix the chemicals with confidence !

Hi Ben, if I’ll be away from the tap - how much water it takes for each was I this same tank (1520 I’m assuming). Thank you for showing the processes so clearly. Miro

Nice video. I haven’t gone through your channel yet, but any plans on showing us how you put together your agitation and warming setup? I’m interested in that! You should look at the 500t guide from Kodak which has their premier removal process. It works even better. Only 3, easily attainable, cheap ingredients. No need for the wipe at the end. Itll remove it all in the bath.

Short answer...YES. That is why I only shoot some of it... I mean, I have several film cameras ,( I am old) , I just don't shoot film a lot. I put film in one camera at a time. If it takes me a month or two... oh well. I have a digital to play with also during that time.

I'd love to know where you got the small bottles with the rubber stoppers

Yes and pointless. Id dslr cameras had been invented first , film would not exsist

I was surprised to see a video from you recommended to me on my home page. I hope you continue to make them. C41 seems like too much effort for me but I agree with your previous video that black and white developing is too easy not to bother doing. Colour film is too expensive anyway and I'm concerned about future availability, I can't see black and white ever being impossible to get a hold of

I appreciate the short and to-the-point video. Nice work 👍🏻

I invested in an plustek 35mm scanner, and the gear to develop film. Cinestill DF96 Black and white chemistry is sooo cheap. Ends up costing me $1 to develop per roll, and $8.50 for a roll of HP5. So a total of $9.50 for developing and scanning. It's double that at my local lab. (Though I support my local lab by bringing them my color film.)

Great video! Very informative and useful

Heyy!! This is exactly what I need. Especially looking forward the developing part. I bet that if there is a way to get that wrong, I will find it and do it. But still tempted to ruin my film myself rather than someone else. 🤌🏻

Links to items

🔥🔥🔥

Super nice! Looking forward to the series 🎉

🎉🎉 😊looking forward!!!! is great for me to get more film information 🙌🙌🙌🙌

Looking forward to that!!

Congratulations, man! Great way to start! 🔥🔥🔥

You are blessed

where are you what summit

This is excellent, I'm trying to make something similar, could you help me to make a similar one?

is that a UVC tube

that is super cool thx you so much for sharing this is exactly what I was searching for

Superb 👌

bought one of these for birkeland eyde... Broke within an hour...

This is so cool! What diodes did you use/ from where did you buy them?

I recommend to change all for voltage based devices rather than on current and it's all clear :)

That could be useful for a spark gap tesla coil

Good job.

Please share cheap chinese neon transformer link ,,😍😞😟

Please share making that video

Very impressive! See also my first Coilgun 50 volt : ua-cam.com/video/UpYrQsr1iRE/v-deo.html

Which schematic did you use for the Peak and Hold Circuit?

Hey, could you please share the source code and schematic? Thanks