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7Alfa Tech
Приєднався 24 січ 2021
Stainless Steel and Bronze Vase turned on a lathe. Golden Ratio.
This vase was turned on a 12 x 36 lathe. The majority is made with 304 stainless, and the base with bronze. The two sections are designed to come apart for thorough cleaning if need be.
This project was completed some time ago.
This project was completed some time ago.
Переглядів: 138
Відео
Parting 304 Stainless, mild steel and 1144 at High Speed
Переглядів 1,6 тис.8 місяців тому
Testing out higher surface speeds and feeds on a small lathe, a Precision Matthews 12x36. Starting with mild steel, then 1144 and finally 304 stainless at various feeds.
Dimple Dies Without a Hydraulic Press
Переглядів 544Рік тому
I review the design process using Fusion 360 and then turning on a Precision Matthews 1236T lathe. The dies can be used anywhere, and one is not restricted to a sheet that will fit in a press. A couple of reasons for modeling in CAD: it is a parametric design, so it should be easy to change dimensions if needed; the drawing gives the dimensions needed. Only a few critical dimensions are critical.
Precise Bolt Hole Circles, Easy. Step by step guide with a DRO.
Переглядів 273Рік тому
Precise placement of holes may be considered difficult or tedious. But it need not be. I drill bolt holes in a circular pattern on one plate, and then drill a matching pattern on a second work piece. The second piece then matched up to the first one. A graphical DRO makes it easier to see what you are doing. Here is a link to my review of the YHSINO: ua-cam.com/video/nOotWqwTFds/v-deo.html My m...
Argon Gas Disappearing Too Fast? Quick Tip Video
Переглядів 111Рік тому
Quick look at finding out why your Argon cylinder is getting depleted sooner that expected. The fix may be surprisingly easy. With an inert gas like Argon, it will just cost you time and money. But it may be a more serious matter with a fuel gas.
The best rotary tool: Review of the Nakanishi Emax EVOlution micro-grinder.
Переглядів 1,5 тис.Рік тому
This is one of the the best rotary tools that you may have not heard of. It is a micro-motor tool capable of 1000 to 40 000 rpm. The review looks at the tool, and its usage in the shop. It is quite pricey but it comes with Japanese quality. Recently, a review of its big brother, the Espert, was done by Dudley Toolwright: ua-cam.com/video/Fm3HDSdueQ8/v-deo.html&ab_channel=DudleyToolwright
Enlarge the Hole in a Small Washer using a lathe
Переглядів 2,5 тис.Рік тому
Often you can't find the perfect washer. It may be too thick, or too wide, etc. Sometimes, only one dimension is incorrect. Here is a quick way to fix a washer that was otherwise just the right thickness and width for my needs.
Drunken Threads: what to do? QCTP tool holder problem.
Переглядів 525Рік тому
Most of us have a selection of these cheap quick change tool post tool holders. They serve us well at a very reasonable price. But once in a while, we'll have to face the quality vs price trade off.
Parting Large Diameter Steel Bar on a Lathe
Переглядів 2,3 тис.Рік тому
This video is about parting 1144 and 8620 steel bar on a 12x36 Precision Matthews lathe. It shows three different parting blades in use: a grooving and parting tool with a carbide insert, a HSS 11/16" height blade and a Shars clamp-on blade with a carbide insert. I also discuss the feeds and speeds used. Bars are 1.5" and 3" in diameter. Viewers may remember a problem I encountered while making...
Make a Copper Head Welding Finger
Переглядів 578Рік тому
This is a simple object that can make welding easier. But it can be used just as much for holding other things down, such as a PCB, while soldering components. I show two ways of making the finger. The first combines machining and welding, and the second is machined only. An even simpler version can be made by grinding the tip on a sander and then welding, but what's the fun in that? Here' a li...
Making a Table Insert for a Band Saw
Переглядів 284Рік тому
I have a 14" Delta vertical band saw, and the original insert surface had become quite irregular. This video is about making one from steel, along with some a minor disaster that occurred along the way.
Stainless steel 304 round bar parting off on a Precision Matthews 1236-T lathe
Переглядів 1,7 тис.Рік тому
304 stainless is never fun to part off, especially on a smaller lathe. But making sure everything is as square as possible and selecting the right speeds and feed for your machine helps. As does magic .... TapMagic is my fav elixir.
5C Chuck Power Key
Переглядів 3,7 тис.2 роки тому
Tired of cranking the 5C chuck key forever? I make a key that fits the Precision Matthews 5C collet chuck that I reviewed recently with a simple adapter allowing the use of a power screw driver.
Turning Titanium: making rings and an arbor for the rings
Переглядів 9222 роки тому
My daughter wanted to make some rings out of titanium. We used a round bar and made 3 rings as well as a simple ring turning arbor
Precision Matthews 5C Collet Chuck: Review
Переглядів 23 тис.2 роки тому
This is an adjustable 5C collet chuck sold by Precision Matthews. It is the D1-4 camlock version. They also have a D1-5 version listed on the site. I recently purchased it and decided to give it a once over and test it out. It came in very nice packaging, and in fact I have kept some of to cushion heavy items. Not sponsored. Please be sure to give a like, share and do subscribe if you find the ...
Review of YH-800 DRO Display for PM 727 Milling Machine
Переглядів 4,7 тис.2 роки тому
Review of YH-800 DRO Display for PM 727 Milling Machine
BS-1 Dividing head Horizontal Alignment
Переглядів 2,3 тис.2 роки тому
BS-1 Dividing head Horizontal Alignment
BS1 Dividing head Part 1: Disassembly
Переглядів 9 тис.2 роки тому
BS1 Dividing head Part 1: Disassembly
Milwaukee Hole Saw: Use the Drive Dogs
Переглядів 1333 роки тому
Milwaukee Hole Saw: Use the Drive Dogs
7.5 inch diwading prise
Thank you
Anyone know how to unlock the rear stator cover on the older 351 emax evolution (what the power chord plugs into)
A more than good enough video for me to subscribe. No needless talking, unnecessary music, pleas for likes and to subscribe, and just what your testing found. Overall it looks to be fairly well made chuck. I would have loved to go with the 5C collets but wasn't willing to trust to luck for what I'd get with the average and generic brands of collets. And a full set from Hardinge is out of my budget. Instead I bought a set of Bison ER 40's for my BP clone and get dual use on the lathe. Much slower to change sizes or parts and far less capable as far as all the additional options 5C has of course.
Appreciate the comments. I too was looking at getting a set of ER 40s. You are right about the collets: they are the weak link in the chain.
This is mesmerizing!
Thanks. Much appreciated.
Ah, now we need a stainless bud vase for my 2002 VW Bug :)
What a nice combo of materials. Why did you turn the smaller diameters closer to the chuck?
The larger holes are at the lower end, along with the threaded area. This way I could do the hole, threading and the ODs all in one setup. These are the features that have to be aligned with the axis. The smaller holes can be a little off axis, and it would not be apparent.
Constant Surface Speed (CSS) is mandatory to "securely" partoff hard to machine material on a lathe. I wouldn't risk the integrity of any machine-tool for any other than soft aluminum and composites using your method.
You are quite right about that. However, I don't have a variable speed dial, nor a CNC lathe. As I mentioned, at the higher speeds in 304, there was a nubbin left behind. This is from the tool just bluntly ploughing through and not cutting. There are several solutions: hole in the center, speed up the lathe or use hand feed at a slower rate. I think for most people who do not have an ability to set up constant surface speed, the use of hand feeding into 304 stainless is just as tricky... slow enough to not burn up the tool and yet fast enough to get under the "skin".
Very nice. Can you try to increase the rpm at the same depth of cut?
Yes, I will most likely have to do a video on that. My lathe has two pulley settings, and currently I'm in the low range. Each range allows for 6 speeds selectable via the gear controls. Easy to switch between. Since a lot of my stuff is not in Aluminium, I've just been lazy and left it in the low range. I suspect the high range will be even scarier
@@7alfatech860 I'd like to see that too
Ah the distinct smell of Tap Magic smoke brings back old memories :)
Gotta love it🤣
That is very nice to see. I would not have expected the results with the 304.
I was surprised too. Turned out much better than expected.
Thanks for the instructional!
Appreciate the comment😀
You didn't show how to take the chuck off. I recently bought a Chinese BS-0 replica from Vevor, and the chuck is on very tight and difficult to remove, so I would have liked to see some tips for removing it, as apparently other people had great difficulty with taking off the chuck as well.
I have not had any trouble taking the chuck off at all. Could you please clarify what the trouble is? Is the taper getting jammed or is it a problem with the cams? I have found that the cams sometimes need to be adjusted a small amount.
Nice work. Certainly first class quality replacement nut.👍👍
Very nice review. Do you think the set true feature was worth the difference over the economy chucks. I have been looking at this same model. Just subscribed to your channel. Thanks for sharing.
I am not sure the set true part of the chuck is that helpful. The amount of adjustment is very limited and is a bit of a pain. But they don't (or didn't when I last looked) offer a non-adjustable version. However, it is close to twice the price of the non-adjustable ones. There was a video by Stefan Gotteswinter form a long time ago, where he took one of these cheap chucks apart, sort of refurbished it and got it to a good spec. But his skills are way up there. I am pretty happy with this chuck, esp with the "power screwdriver."
Looks like you got a sweet example - it has the quality of my Bison 5C chuck. From the comments it doesn't look like all of the PM units are this good. In my experience with lots of different Buck and Bison chucks the Adjust-tru/Set-tru centering is best done with the locking screws kind of tight. Yes, the screws fight each other a little, but there is almost no walking out when final tightening is done. Hard to say how tight, but not loose.
Thanks for your suggestions. I have tried both ways and you are right about keeping the screws tight... though the tightness can be hard to gauge.
Хороший чак
Excellent video…I’ve seen so many people bashing the nose trying to split the body, instead of using the screws… I really don’t understand why people use grease in chucks, it just acts like a magnet for dirt and metal chips….a light oil like 3 in one is all that’s needed, There are no high speeds or temperatures that require grease… I’ve never used grease on any drill or lathe chucks in 50 years and never had any issues….it also makes future maintenance so much easier…Grease can harden overtime and actually seize the chuck
Thanks for your comment. And the good point about the grease.
Excellent video, thank you!
Where can you purchase this tool
Sorry, just saw this. I bought it from Otto Frei in California about 3 years ago. They mostly do jewelry tools. Hope it is still useful to you or perhaps someone else.
Video starts off "Welcome to the Shop". White coat, gloves, that's not a shop, that's a freaking lab, or a surgery center. Although the next time I have surgery, if the surgeon breaks out a collet chuck, I'm out.
You might be surprised by the use of power tools and chucks, wires and even pliers in surgery😄
If you have to keep adjusting your Y-axis to find the center-top of the bar, your Y-axis is out of alignment. Set your indicator probe to the vertical position and sweep the back or front of the bar until you get your "0" answer. Then reset the probe to horizontal position and sweep again across the top or bottom until you get "0" for all positions again. Your quick setup of the indexer with the rods in the t-slots (as shown in a previous video) is NOT a final setup procedure.
Surface feed rate changes (slows) as the tool goes from outer diamater toward the center. Finish will be affected by this changing of the surface feed rate.
Yes, indeed. Ideally, one should keep correcting the RPM as the tool plunges in deeper.
I received my 5C Matthews chuck today. I am not going to take it apart at this time but wondering what oil will you be using in the ball oil port ?. Great idea to check the mounting plate by itself. When I Aline the chuck thinking of using the ID collet seating taper. Again I really enjoyed your well produced video. Thank You BillB
I used some ways oil, since I already have it in one of my pump-style oil cans, but I am pretty sure any oil would do the job. The ID taper is a good way to take out all the variables that come with the collet. I would suggest doing the alignment a little differently. Perhaps make the front mounting screws snug and leave the 4 adjusting screws a little loose. Tap the chuck into alignment gently, rather than using the 4 screws. Then sung up the 4 screws. I expect this method to be a little less faster, and less frustrating.
regardless of how good this chuck is, I'm sorry I ever got one (different brand, but that's not the point), these things have way too much overhang, so they will vibrate because of the overhang regardless of how low the TIR is, also too much weight on the spindle. its mind boggling that bench top size lathe spindles have morse taper rather than 5-C.
I agree. It is very hard without something to hold the taper pulled in. My PM lathe has a D1-4 mount, so I luckily don't have that issue.
My precision Matthews 3 jaw chuck key is a little wobbly on it’s fit into the sq drive hole , thinking this could be a nice project for me. Thanks
What a wonderful review you did on this 5C lathe chuck . Considering the final runout accuracy and the reasonable price point , I would purchase one . Great video
Thanks so much for your comment. I really like it, and it is a lot easier to use with my power screwdriver mod to turn the chuck key.
cnc mill & cnc lathe, but no hydraulic press?
😁 BTW, its just a manual mill and a manual lathe.
What alloy material did you use?
Great question. I've been using 1144 for stuff that does not need welding later. It machines really well and has plenty of strength for hobby use. Ideally, one could use hardenable steels.
Thanks for showing a practical application for the DRO. It does make life a lot easier.😀
Thanks for watching👍
Hi, we buy tools so we can use them to improve other tools that we have bought! I do the same thing - great fun and thank you for showing this. I was very interested in seeing the knurling tool in operation.
Hi. I've only just come across your very informative and useful channel. Liked and sub'd.
Thanks, and appreciate the kind remarks.
Hi, interesting. These PM products seem to be of better than usual quality, nice to see that. Thank you for showing.
Clamp the washer in a vise, clamp a Unibit in a drill chuck, BOOM, you are done doing this in less time then it takes to describe it!
Nice idea. It is good to see options being put out there. Though you need to have a step drill bit of 8 mm, or whatever size you are trying to get to.
Could you have used an 8mm reamer?
Yes indeed! A straight shank chucking reamer would have been great. Unfortunately, I didn't have one. And this technique, while it is a kludge, is applicable to other sizes one might not have.
Looks awesome. I took a look when Stefan and James Clough mentioned it on their channels, not cheap 😂
Yes, it hurt when I bought it😁
An observant viewer pointed out that I had not listed all the part numbers: the control unit is the Emax EVOlution NE249, motor is an ENK-410S standard motor, and the hand piece is an IR-310 ring-type quick change.
A suitably sized internal threading tool could open the bore and deburr both edges.
Yes, and the deburring would be a real bonus.
I have the same knurling tool. The shoulder on the pivot bolt was too short so I made a new bolt. Also, the holes for the pivot bolt were different sizes, and were drilled at an angle. I re-drilled them and made a through bushing. Though still not perfect, it is a usable tool now. You may wish to check these parts on yours.
Thanks, will do. My pivot bolt holes appeared to be fine, but I had not examined them closely.
a drill bit would work fine to do this. just you have to feed it really slow and tighten the chuck alot. i do this all the time.
Good to know. I imagine the slight groove that the washer is sitting in would also help.
Probably needed a specific boring tool to clear it fouling on the radius, but great use of a lathe for smaller tasks. Worth having “repair washers” in your stock for additional options - they’re just a huge penny washer with a small hole in the middle.
Thanks for the tip!
This is hypnotic to watch
Glad you liked it!
thanks a lot for this video, which helps to easily set up the optimal debounce circuit . I am using a lot of rotary encoders and have tried all kinds of software solutions. It works well, but sometimes you still have glitches. INTERRUPTS are always tricky and good for a surprise ! This time i will go back to the basics and choose a clean electronic solution. ..... besides its an honour for me to use a SCHMITT trigger - because this is actually my family name. greetings from germany Bernd Schmitt
I'm so glad to have been of help! Ich spreche nur ein wenig Deutsch. But if you reply in German, I will be lost😄. A Schmitt trigger is such a cheap and useful device. LogiSwitch LS10 is an IC specifically for debouncing, and I believe it is quite robust. But it has about 20 ms debounce time, whereas rolling your own lets you adjust it to whatever you want. And the chip may be $2-3 each.
The knurling turned out quite nice.
The knurler was nice and easy to use.
First🎉
Good to see. How come the 3 inch bar is being parted quite a distance from the chuck?
The bar overhang is actually not that great. It is about 3" in diameter and the parting is at close to 5" from the tip of the jaws, so less than 2D. And the reason is simply that I needed a disc of about 3" dia.😀
Nice machining fixture.
Nice work, I'll eventually get a lathe.
Thanks for the kind comment. The finish and accuracy one can get even with a manual lathe is pretty amazing. I had originally wanted to get something like a Tormach but got side tracked with the lathe. It has taught me a lot about feeds, speeds and different types of metals. One day soon, I hope to follow along with you and get back to CNC milling. I have an MR-1 on order.
Turning copper... very cool.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, it is a lot more fun than I expected. It is gummy and the surface finish becomes bad with shallower cuts.
I definitely need to make one for my saw!
Thanks for your comment! I have been sawing thin stainless sheets to make coupons for welding practice, and the original insert just couldn't take it.