Відео

I agreed. Not only it is much safer with new tires (new tread), the old tires rubber actually get harden when getting old especially in hot state like Arizona; therefore, no matter how new and tread the tire has, the tire will age much faster due to the heat. I posted this is because I assumed that Michelin "Defender 2" has the same rating as "Defender" (A and A), but I do not know Michelin actually "down grade" it to A and B. Bad assumption that 2.0 is a better version of 1.0. 😢 Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

Hi, Subzero, You are number 1 view on my Video. Thank you so much. 😃 Yes, California's (sun shine state) UV ray did his job. I have old video camera and it only shows slightly better but the lens are actually "yellowish" before I polished it. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

Thanks for the kind word.😃 The process and parts should be the same because they are sister's car except Matrix is liftback. However, in my case, the bushing is not the major part causing the noise, it is the control arms are bad (please see under my videos for the left and right control arm replacement). If your bushing is not loose, that may not be the main issue unless you for sure it is the bushing because on my 2009 Corolla's replaced old bushing, the condition still "good". My rattle noise is mainly caused by the control arms. (yes, about time too, for a 15 years car and with 200k miles) Please check out my other video on this car suspension replacement. Thank you for watching and thank you for your comment. Notes: that clunking noise drive me crazy and I have almost changed most part related to suspension which may create noise. Detecting where the noise come from is a very complicated process.

@diycheapdaddy2113 Understood. Thanks for the quick response! A mechanic told me the sway bar bushings are "gone" which can cause the bumper on the left side to flap around. It's been a long time now. Do you think he meant the front or rear sway bar bushings?

@@brazyuniverse4221 If mechanic say sway bar bushing and this is what this video described; however, when I try to detect the noise, I also changed the sway bar link which are actually bad because if I remembered correctly, the rubber boot on the sway bar link is crack and not much grease inside and those link need to be replaced anyway. You can do a test by shaking the sway bar link and it should be tight. Changing the sway bar bushing by shop should not be that bad since they can raise the car up. For the bushing (this video), bushing about $15-$20 piece even OEM and holding it by only 2-4 nuts by a bracket. It should be a 15-20 minutes job for the shop. The control arms are expensive, dealers want almost $2k for it (Please check out my video under sway bar link, control arms, struts and front shocks) Thanks for watching my video.

@@diycheapdaddy2113 I appreciate the info. Thank you 🙏

@@brazyuniverse4221 You are very welcome. Thanks for watching.

The code P0741 apply to the same condition/issues and it is related to torque converter/transmission/transmission oil/solenoid. I would unplug it and check for lose contact and since you disconnect it, I would clean it and put it back tight and see what happened. The connector is the cheapest and easy way. If you watch the link on my comment on Scott's video, the P0741 was not major issue; however, the check engine light will not pass smog in California; therefore, you cannot renew your car registration. Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching.

Pleasure and thanks for feedback ı will update now my car in workshop

​@@diycheapdaddy2113 When I'm on road suddenly transmission is gone thats like rew up on N and I pull over car. I check that connector and touch a screwdriver after car select D and R gear.. after happen again.. sorry for delay answer thanx

@@asarcik Thanks for the update. For my corolla, there still a cable connected to the transmission in order for it to shift from P to D, R or N. I believed my connector's contact is dirty which created the Check Engine Light because wrong or no signal is send to the solenoid. No so sure how Chevy works. Thanks for your information.

Thanks for the kind words. Thank you so much for watching. 👍

Thanks for kind comment. Thank you for watching.

Hi, if you already know it is the coil, then you can change, if not eventually, your check engine light will turn on and the error code will be P0351 and P0354. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

Same thought here. Before I picked the KYB, I did look at the Monroe and Gabriel but the reviews were not great. I guess all the US company keep outsourcing to cheap labor countries and the QA went down. I recently replace a Blower Motor and A/C fan motor (see my video), it is still running except it has noise due to lack of lube/oil. It was original installed back in 1989 - 100% Made in USA. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

@@diycheapdaddy2113 I did figure out the problem. the rubber damper that sits between the top mount and spring was not sitting right in a way it kind of squirted up and obstructed the mount bearing. A simple and i am guessing common assembly error. Fortunately i have spring compressors so it was a fairly easy fix.

@@robdixson196 Excellent information. This will help the next youtuber detect the issue. 👍

Thanks for the kind words, thank you for watching.

@@diycheapdaddy2113 I literally just put in a new motor...because cust said it only runs when she holds down the start button...soon as she lets go it shuts off 🤦🏽‍♂️

@@508_Phax it may be the on-off switch. I did check my on-off switch, it works but it did has some burn mark after almost 30 years. I put up this video because the instruction come with the wiring on the Blue wire is not correct or at least not working on my old dryer. When I removed the blue wire, it works perfectly for my model. Thanks for your comments.

Hi, Ben, if you have one of these KYB recently installed and it has some random "clicking noise", I would check the top nuts. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

@@diycheapdaddy2113I too just had these installed and clunking clicking sound.

@@noelrmiller I would try to tighten the top nuts and see if the noise goes away. In my case, it works when I tighten it while the KYB shock still installed on the car but I also used some thread locker just in case. Good Luck. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching. Please keep us posted whether this resolved the issue. 👍

@@diycheapdaddy2113thank you. I hope to report success. Some have loosened the center nut as theirs were too tight. So I’ll see what happens!

@@noelrmiller That is very good information. Basically it has to be within the specification. Thanks for the input.

I found out the issue on my clanking noise are came from the control arms. I have 2 videos on it under this account. one for driver side which need to slightly raise the engine and one for passenger side which need to remove the oil housing. Please take a look. After I replaced them, the 09 Corolla ran as new. Thank you for your comment and thank your for watching.

Dealer want almost $2000 and other auto repair shops quote from $1200 to $1500 for changing the control arms for my 2009 Toyota Corolla. Here are the videos: Driver side: ua-cam.com/video/qB21gNLVxek/v-deo.html Passenger side : ua-cam.com/video/H0unRRSBbrY/v-deo.html Thanks and please let us know how it goes. 😃

Hi, Ken, thanks for your understanding on my first youtube video. As I mentioned to others in their comments. Nothing will go wrong, did go wrong, from taping /focus setting to downloading/uploading setting. Anyway, hope you able to resolve your cpap fuse issue. I have documented the details under video description. Thanks again for your comment and watching.

It’s a free video get over it

@@johndough1264 Hi, John, thanks for your comment. Since this is my first video, I am very nervous and every time when I talked, I stuttered over words. After some many "cuts"/"re-tape", I decided not to talk and just to get over the video. Anyway, the rest of my videos, I feel much more confidence and it did improved a lot. Thanks again for your kind words and thank you for watching.

Hi, Bruce, thanks for your kind words. I am glad you able to fix rather good working tool to landslide. My should be a classic because it was made in USA. 😁 Thank you for watching.

Hi, Aneuris, if you click the video description 's MORE right above the comments. I have documented lot of information related to P0741. Please reviewed those. Based on internet, the most common solution is to 1) Change Transmission oil (use Genuine Toyota) 2) if still have code, then Change transmission oil a second time (first drain and fill only remove 35-40%) 3) If still have code after second drain and refill. then you may have to replace the transmission filter (you need drop/remove the pan). 4) If you decide to change the transmission filter and remove the pan. You may as well check or replace the solenoid because it is next to the transmission filter with a wire connection and a nuts holding it. You can also test the solenoid using a battery and it should open and close when it has current. If not working, that is the time to replace it because you have remove the pan. By doing the above, the code should be gone, with the exception you may have a bad connection which my video indicated. If you car never change transmission oil and it is highly the cause of the P0741. Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching.

@diycheapdaddy2113 transmission works great no issues, cat have 150,000 miles on it, noticed the transmission fluid is little bit brown , I just concerned because people said don't change the fluid others said is ok I recently purchased the car so I don't know how often they replace the transmission fluid

Agreed but the trend design seems similar when I compared the Original design vs the "2" but may be the rubber material is different now. Thanks for the comment and thank you for watching.

Hi, Angel, thanks for the information. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

Hi, Peter. the fuse is listed on video description; however, as some has mentioned, it has been sold out. You can try other brands with the same specification in A mazon or auction site like e bay. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

(121 Degrees Celsius Thermal Fuse 10A 250V AEC121E) AMZ

Hi Curtis, thanks for the kind words. I believed as long as they have the same specification, it should work because the holding fuse area is pretty roomy. Someone ask that question before and I believed I put another link to it. If you still have issue locate it, I will revisit another brand. May be in auction site like e bay. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching. 👍

You are correct, the green 120C is sold out; however, remember you can use lower such as yellow 100 C but Never Higher. Lower will blow more often but Higher will not blow the fuse which will burn /short out the machine. I also saw the Green except it comes with so many type (all different kinds of ranges for all other applications). Please let me know how it goes. Thanks again.

Agreed. This is my video and the setting on the camera is wrong, the lighting is wrong and even the download's format to youtube is wrong. 😭😢

I don't know. I did search through internet but no luck on any manual or part number; therefore, I opened the bottom and discovered there is a thermal fuse on it. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

@@diycheapdaddy2113 (121 Degrees Celsius Thermal Fuse 10A 250V AEC121E) AMZ

I am not sure what happened; however, I would do the old reboot trick (like reboot mircosoft window), remove the the battery wait 15-30 seconds and install brand new battery and then try to reset it near the control console and have the phone on the Ring sapplication next to the contact sensor when paired up Hopefully it works. Also make sure have strong wi-fi signal when paired even your reset may not related to any of the above I mentioned. Good Luck. Please let me know how it goes. Thanks for your comment and thank you for working.

Hi Mimi I agreed because the way it is designed and placement of the parts are not user friendly at all. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

Hi, Brett, thanks for your comment. if you still have the OEM Toyota hose clamp, then you need a Plier to remove the hose; otherwise, you may have one of the clamp which use a Phillips / Flat head screw driver to open and tighten up. If your radiator hose has not been changed before and even you try to twisted it, it still did not come out then you also may need a (not sharp) flat head screw driver to help the hose disconnect from the engine block or radiator connection. Be careful not to damage anything. Be Patient and go slow. If you plan to do a Drain and Fill of the radiator's coolant at the same time when you change this Pipe Connector then you also need a small pliers to turn the radiator drain cock if your fingers are not strong enough. Be very careful not to damaged drain hole; otherwise, you need to get a new one plastic drain cock or a new radiator if the threads are messed up. Be careful not to tighten that radiator drain plug too much because it will crack because it is made with plastic. I am in California and car does not have rust but if you in cold weather states (salt/rust), I would just leave it alone due to the age and condition of the car; however, it is a judgement call depends the condition of the car and radiator. Thanks for you comment and thank you for watching.

Just FYI. If you plan to keep your car, same part but available in metal ( Aluminum) and not plastic; therefore, the metal connector for sure will last much longer than the plastic and I remember it is only few dollars more. Good Luck.

I am sorry, I don't know but I think you can compare the number of the other 3 coils. Normally, one go bad at one time; therefore. you can kind of use the good coil's number as a baseline. The bad one is the one has the number which is way far off. If you ask me to guess, I would guess it is Cylinder 4's coil (the one near the brake master cylinder) because I have two Corolla and that is the one goes bad first, not sure why. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

Hi, I would check the fuse to make sure it has good continuity constantly and also the clean contact point (slightly sand it with sand paper) and make sure it is not loose. Also, the plate should not be dirty. If dirty, it does not conduct heat as good as before. I would also check and clean the reservoir calcium deposit if there is any. Thank you so much for your comment and thank you for watching.

The dirt/water/grease is on the connector outside the transmission. My guess is during daily driving, the oil grease, dust, road dirt and rain water accumulate on the top of the connector and eventually go inside the connection/wires. Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching.

Hi, Salman, for my issue it is the related to the starter and I found out it is common issue on Denso starter when the weather is cold, when weather is cold, the high pitch noise just annoying but the car will start. I saw a video related to this problem. You may want to double check the battery is not weak too or your starter may be on the way out or you have a weak connection on the starter wire. Also check your battery connection to make sure it is not corroded. When weather is cold, the Cold Cranking Amp on the battery is lower. On your first start, did the starter turn or not turn, for my issue, start will turn except it has noise when car is cold. Thank you for watching.

Im having same problem how did you fix it? @saman

@@jellybandzz7982 I replaced the starter with a new TYC which costs < $100. I have document the process which is not that difficult. It is in my video collection. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

Hi, Enrique, thanks for the kind word. Since this issue is when you turn on the a/c, I believed it is a/c related. I would check the belt since it added more pressure/load when a/c is turn on. I think it may be related to the a/c compressor. If you don't have cool air from a/c, that may be it; however, I don't know why when accelerating it works and a/c is cold (compressor working. May be the noise still there due to high RPM. Do you have check engine light? When CEL turn on, check that code. May be you have a weak coil, a weak coil would make engine rattle when car is stop and turn on a/c made it run harder. I would check the belt, compressor, coil or even spark plug. Turn on A/C made all these parts run harder. Thanks for the comments and thank you for watching.

@@diycheapdaddy2113 Good evening, could you please indicate what are the resistance parameters of the ignition coils of the Toyota Corolla 2007, thank you

Thanks for responding, if the compressor works, the check engine light is not on, I would like to know the resistance ranges of the ignition coils of the 2007 Toyota Corolla, thank you

@@enriquehernandez8652 Hi, Enrique, I don't have the specification on 2007 Corolla and the video is based on 2009 Corolla 's coil which has a different engine (2ZR-FE). Normally, when the coil goes bad, it starts with 1 and then the other 3 is not that far behind. I think you can compare each one and see which one is really out of range or slightly bad. What I think is some parts is near fail condition but when you put more gas to it, the symptom still there except it is not that noticeable due to high RPM. I think eventually the CEL will turn on and you can identify that issue by the code. You may also check the engine mount, fuel injector, fuel pump/fuel filter because those are the part about time need to be replaced and can cause rattle but when engine is rev up,, it covered it. If your a/c is cold then the compressor is fine. You can also start monitor the coolant level (head gasket) and engine oil and see whether it is lower or gone for no reason. Basically when a/c is turn on,. it put extra load on lot of parts which is slightly off the limit but which one is what we try to find out. If you able to identify the issue, please update the comments here so that we can learn something new. Thanks again for your comments.

@@diycheapdaddy2113 Hi, I already checked Gasoline pump and filter both Ok, I replaced the spark plugs, I did maintenance on the injectors, maintenance on the throttle body, I tested the coils following the instructions indicated in your video and according to measurement the results were the following: 200k 2000 1- 34.5 .355 2- 35.4 .367 3- 34.6 .355 4- 06.7 .995 Coil 4 is not original denso, it was a replacement that I placed 1 year ago when the original one was damaged, I am going to locate 1 original to replace and I hope it improves, otherwise I will have to measure compression in the cylinders, thank you very much for your attention, if you have Any other suggestions, grateful.

Hi, Sanjith, thanks so much for the kind words. Appreciate you watching the video. 👍

Agreed. Thanks for your comment 👍and thank you for watching.

Hi, Mario, thank so much for your comment and thank you for watching.

Hi, JZ the P0741 did not come back and the car even pass smog in California (no check engine light). If you able to unplug that connection, please make sure all the contact is clean (not corroded) (may need slightly sand all the contact for better conduction) and clean it good and then when you put that back, it should have the "click" sound which means it is two connection is tight as designed or the it is locked up. I suspect the issue is the switch connection wire contact or switch itself is loose; however, based on internet, P0741 can be transmission is dirty and the solenoid itself may be bad (there is a small hole on it and it can be slightly clogged). If you go to that P0741 video description, it has lot of details on it such as part number on solenoid...etc Good luck, please let me know how it goes. Thank you for your comment and thank you so much for watching.

Hi, Collin, you are very welcome. Thank you for your comment 👍and thank you so much for watching.

With the exact same situation as well. After engine is warm it doesn’t make the sound

@@mikehike Hi, Mike, I have resolved my issue with the replacement of a new starter. Here is the video if you plan to replace it yourself. ua-cam.com/video/Uega7FTe7VQ/v-deo.html Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

Vtc actuator

I got it from ebay but please be aware there are two types. One looks exactly like the OEM with clear len but red led lights when brake is pressed. The other one is Red Len with red led lights. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

Gimme the link to buy it please

I didn’t found it

Go ebay, perform a search for " 2009 Toyota Corolla spoiler" or "09-13 Toyota Corolla Spoiler". It should come out with lot of listing and you just have to pick the color of your car and get the one with good seller which has excellent feedback. Good Luck.

Hola Sam, me alegra mucho que te funcione. Muchas gracias por tus comentarios y gracias por mirar.👍

Hi, Eric, thanks for your kind comment. When I opened it and 4 batteries dropped out and it took me a while to put back the correct position "+ " and "-" with the right combination; therefore, I might be as well make a video out of it. Thanks for your encouragement 👍and thank you for watching.

What Eric said!

Hi Mark, I appreciate your kind comments and encouraging words. Thank you so much for watching.

Zephyr is a good brand but it seems like it is not available. I believed you can try other brand provided they have the same specification as your CPAP. Normally they are rated around 100C to 120C. There is another popular brand in amazon with good review is under "Hilitchi" but it comes with 85 pieces with all different kind of range from 100 C to 280C. I doubted you need 85 piece but if you have coffee pot, portable heater, toaster fuses, electric iron blow out all the time then It can be very handy. I have not try this "CompStudio" brand but it seems like it may work, please double check with your specification. Amazon's "CompStudio 5Pcs 100C Celsius Circuit Cut Off Temperature Micro Thermal Fuse 10A 256V". Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching.

@@diycheapdaddy2113 (121 Degrees Celsius Thermal Fuse 10A 250V AEC121E) AMZ

At least you try and give it a second chance. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching. BTW, is it possible put a wire in between and soldering it back together, make this a challegege.

@@diycheapdaddy2113If Amazon can get their act together, I’m getting the Ones that take Triple A Batteries.

Hi, Manav, you are very welcome and thank you so much for watching. 👍

Hi James, thanks for your comment and thank you for watching. Happy New Year.

@@diycheapdaddy2113 happy new year to you as well

You are very welcome. I am glad it works for you. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.