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Complete Tuning Solutions
United States
Приєднався 6 вер 2013
Official Channel for Complete Tuning Solutions Videos. Motorsports coverage, how to videos, general shop updates. I'll also post product reviews from time to time.
About me:
I've been in the motorsports scene since 2001 when I first started tuning vehicles (DSMs). Now I live on a small farm/ranch in Texas and mostly tune and modify my own vehicles, with some select client builds mixed in from time to time. Here to learn and share knowledge as well as provide tips/tricks along the way.
Considering subscribing, liking, and sharing videos to help this channel grow.
About me:
I've been in the motorsports scene since 2001 when I first started tuning vehicles (DSMs). Now I live on a small farm/ranch in Texas and mostly tune and modify my own vehicles, with some select client builds mixed in from time to time. Here to learn and share knowledge as well as provide tips/tricks along the way.
Considering subscribing, liking, and sharing videos to help this channel grow.
Garmin Catalyst: Revolutionizing Track Experience in my Miata
Garmin Catalyst: Revolutionizing Track Experience in my Miata
Follow along for a view of my top lap per session, 4 sessions total. I utilized the Garmin Catalyst to record and then post track, analyze the results. Track was the 1.3 Mile course at Cress on Motorsports Ranch in Cress on, TX (outside the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex).
Car: 1990 Miata
Power: ~102 whp, 1.6 motor with intake and cat-back exhaust, MS3 PNP ECU, 93 octane, not quite optimized spark map.
Suspension: Budget Bilsteins. Hypercoil springs, Energy suspension bushings, spec miata sway bars.
Tires: Han kook RS4. 225/45/15. ~5/32 tread, 3-year-old date code on 15x7 Spec miata style wheels.
~2350lbs with driver.
Working on gaining driver experience and seat time running intermediate HPDE class with Apex Driving Academy. First session was learning the course. Second session was trying some new lines and was cut short due to an incident a fellow driver had. Third session was refining some lines and focusing on two specific corners and staying consistent. Fourth and final session was some final experimentation and trying not to have brain fade as it was getting late in the day and was warm outside.
Intro: 00:00
Prep: 00:12
Cresson: 00:35
Lap 1 - 1:18.90: 01:03
Lap 2 - 1.17:50: 02:32
Lap 3 - 1.17:65 (with optimal lap side by side): 04:00
Lap 4 - 1:16.99 (with optimal lap side by side): 05:30
Closing thoughts: 06:58
Best Lap 4 - 1:16.99 (solo view): 08:33
Get your Catalyst on Amazon here: amzn.to/3BDbSDE
👉 Subscribe: www.youtube.com/@completetuningsolutions?sub_confirmation=1 👈
Follow along for a view of my top lap per session, 4 sessions total. I utilized the Garmin Catalyst to record and then post track, analyze the results. Track was the 1.3 Mile course at Cress on Motorsports Ranch in Cress on, TX (outside the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex).
Car: 1990 Miata
Power: ~102 whp, 1.6 motor with intake and cat-back exhaust, MS3 PNP ECU, 93 octane, not quite optimized spark map.
Suspension: Budget Bilsteins. Hypercoil springs, Energy suspension bushings, spec miata sway bars.
Tires: Han kook RS4. 225/45/15. ~5/32 tread, 3-year-old date code on 15x7 Spec miata style wheels.
~2350lbs with driver.
Working on gaining driver experience and seat time running intermediate HPDE class with Apex Driving Academy. First session was learning the course. Second session was trying some new lines and was cut short due to an incident a fellow driver had. Third session was refining some lines and focusing on two specific corners and staying consistent. Fourth and final session was some final experimentation and trying not to have brain fade as it was getting late in the day and was warm outside.
Intro: 00:00
Prep: 00:12
Cresson: 00:35
Lap 1 - 1:18.90: 01:03
Lap 2 - 1.17:50: 02:32
Lap 3 - 1.17:65 (with optimal lap side by side): 04:00
Lap 4 - 1:16.99 (with optimal lap side by side): 05:30
Closing thoughts: 06:58
Best Lap 4 - 1:16.99 (solo view): 08:33
Get your Catalyst on Amazon here: amzn.to/3BDbSDE
👉 Subscribe: www.youtube.com/@completetuningsolutions?sub_confirmation=1 👈
Переглядів: 28
Відео
How to Replace Miata Clutch Master & Slave Cylinder - Step-by-Step
Переглядів 51Місяць тому
Follow along as I guide you through the process of replacing the clutch master and slave cylinder on your Mazda Miata using my track Miata as an example. Easy to do regardless of your skillset. We'll cover everything from the tools you'll need to detailed instructions on each step of the replacement process. You'll learn about common pitfalls to avoid, tips for ensuring a proper fit, and how to...
How to Remove LS Cylinder Head Springs (DIY Tutorial)
Переглядів 100Місяць тому
Follow along as I tear down the spare 241 cylinder heads for the Project Formula build. Salvaging the dual valve springs that came with these damaged heads will save me money on the build. I also talk about using the Lisle tool 16560 from: amzn.to/3XHTxOx 👉 Subscribe: www.youtube.com/@completetuningsolutions?sub_confirmation=1 👈 Music track: Marshmallow by Lukrembo Source: freetouse.com/music N...
Project Formula: Quick fix, broken driver side mirror bracket ($40)
Переглядів 81Місяць тому
Quick video on how easy it is to fix that broken mirror on your f body. Designed to break loose, Amazon usually has a replacement bracket for you for $40. Need a 10mm socket, Phillips screwdriver and a t15. Part is here: amzn.to/47aywis (amazon affiliate link, consider clicking here if you found this helpful) 👉 Subscribe: www.youtube.com/@completetuningsolutions?sub_confirmation=1 👈
Project Formula: Taillight swap, repair, wet sand, LED bulb upgrade
Переглядів 50Місяць тому
Swapping in and repairing a new to me driver side tail light assembly. Wet sanding, compound, polishing both tail light assemblies, swapping in a new flasher to prevent hyper flash, and LED bulb upgrade. Parts needed below: 1 Flasher: amzn.to/3MDMHTI Pair Reverse light bulbs: amzn.to/4gfWRY6 4 pack Tail light bulbs: amzn.to/3XzkSlB 4 pack 194 bulbs for corners and running: amzn.to/4eiAjEB (amaz...
DIY Holley Terminator Max mount solution for 4th gen f-body
Переглядів 56Місяць тому
Making a proper mount out of aluminum for the Holley Terminator X Max using the factory ECU location. Follow along as I use CAD (cardboard aided drafting) and some aluminum rivets to securely mount the Holley Terminator Max on my 4th gen Firebird Formula project. 👉 Subscribe: www.youtube.com/@completetuningsolutions?sub_confirmation=1 👈
Project formula: Initial motor health baseline/compression test and my Gen 4 motor score.
Переглядів 443 місяці тому
Got a pretty decent deal on an aluminum gen 4 for the firebird and compression tested the current gen 3 that's bleeding down oil pressure. 175-185 across all 8 means I'll have to drop the pan and try to find the oil leak on the cheap. 👉 Subscribe: www.youtube.com/@completetuningsolutions?sub_confirmation=1 👈
New Project Kickoff. Street/Strip build.
Переглядів 1303 місяці тому
The first of many on this new project series. This is one of my dream cars from high school and will be a fun build and journey. Should compliment the Miata nicely. 👉 Subscribe: www.youtube.com/@completetuningsolutions?sub_confirmation=1 👈
My shop was a disaster! Space update and new tools + future plans for the Miata and next project.
Переглядів 873 місяці тому
Sold my bass boat and am liquidating some tackle; this leaves me room for a second project car (TBA). Quick video update of the Miata project (1.8 VVT tear down) and unboxing of a new US General toolbox to keep me organized. 👉 Subscribe: www.youtube.com/@completetuningsolutions?sub_confirmation=1 👈
Adding Vehicle Speed Signal to MS3PNP Miata (1990 Miata)
Переглядів 334 місяці тому
Easy to do by only running a wire, now you too can log vehicle speed on your megasquirt powered Miata. Input the proper gear ratios and tire size and you'll also be able to figure out selected gear. 👉 Subscribe: www.youtube.com/@completetuningsolutions?sub_confirmation=1 👈
3000gt Tune up. Plugs/wires/valve cover gasket replacement
Переглядів 3854 місяці тому
Replacing spark plugs and wires on a 3000gt VR4. Bonus middle video coverage of replacing valve cover gaskets. Voice over with tips and tricks. Recommended plug wires (NGK): amzn.to/3AVo5mP Recommend plugs (NGK - Iridium): amzn.to/47ekM6c Recommended plugs (NGK - Copper (6 required, or 3-2 packs): amzn.to/3z6IV21 👉 Subscribe: www.youtube.com/@completetuningsolutions?sub_confirmation=1 👈
Project Miata: HouSCCA 2 Day Autocross
Переглядів 584 місяці тому
Shakedown runs for the track Miata at a somewhat local Autocross event. Went decent overall. 6 years away from Autocrossing means I had some serious cobwebs to clear and a few things to adjust with the setup for the next time. Missed driving in anger. Just wish I fit in the cage better and it had more power! Car technically classes in DP for PAX but does it poorly on 7.5 inch wide wheels and 2 ...
3/S (3000gt/Stealth) Overview and Inspection video
Переглядів 1464 місяці тому
Follow along for a brief history lesson, overview, inspection with tips and tricks. 👉 Subscribe: www.youtube.com/@completetuningsolutions?sub_confirmation=1 👈
New Mini Series kicking off. What just came in from Japan?!?
Переглядів 355 місяців тому
New Mini Series kicking off. What just came in from Japan?!?
DIY Cribbing for wrenching and alignment
Переглядів 575 місяців тому
DIY Cribbing for wrenching and alignment
Track Miata Update: Adding 3" brake ducts
Переглядів 4695 місяців тому
Track Miata Update: Adding 3" brake ducts
1990 Miata Front Subframe Swap Part 2: Reconditioned Subframe install Quick and Easy!
Переглядів 766 місяців тому
1990 Miata Front Subframe Swap Part 2: Reconditioned Subframe install Quick and Easy!
1990 Miata front Subframe Swap Part 1: NA8 subframe reinforcement, repair, and restoration.
Переглядів 796 місяців тому
1990 Miata front Subframe Swap Part 1: NA8 subframe reinforcement, repair, and restoration.
Miata Wildwood proportioning valve install with in car adjuster.
Переглядів 9236 місяців тому
Miata Wildwood proportioning valve install with in car adjuster.
Brofab front hub install. Cheap track insurance for the NA Miata TT build.
Переглядів 2267 місяців тому
Brofab front hub install. Cheap track insurance for the NA Miata TT build.
$2000 flashlight race. Yellow Belly 1/8 no prep Texas 2k weekend.
Переглядів 6157 місяців тому
$2000 flashlight race. Yellow Belly 1/8 no prep Texas 2k weekend.
TX2k24 2jz qualifying. 6.4 off the trailer. White Rice
Переглядів 2377 місяців тому
TX2k24 2jz qualifying. 6.4 off the trailer. White Rice
Texas 2K24 coverage. Qualifying Round #5 for stick shift
Переглядів 2727 місяців тому
Texas 2K24 coverage. Qualifying Round #5 for stick shift
Tx2k24 stick shift qualifying round 5. 6 second stick shift cars.
Переглядів 2,3 тис.7 місяців тому
Tx2k24 stick shift qualifying round 5. 6 second stick shift cars.
Quick mod! Installing front swaybar brackets on NA Miata.
Переглядів 307 місяців тому
Quick mod! Installing front swaybar brackets on NA Miata.
How to: Energy Suspension rear bushing install - NA Miata.
Переглядів 258 місяців тому
How to: Energy Suspension rear bushing install - NA Miata.
Installing Singular Motorsports headlight lid brackets, V2 hood vents, and aerocatch hood pins
Переглядів 868 місяців тому
Installing Singular Motorsports headlight lid brackets, V2 hood vents, and aerocatch hood pins
Making a true cold air intake for the track Miata. Follow along and learn something.
Переглядів 1949 місяців тому
Making a true cold air intake for the track Miata. Follow along and learn something.
DIY How to: Advanced Autosports FPR kit for 90-97 miatas
Переглядів 88Рік тому
DIY How to: Advanced Autosports FPR kit for 90-97 miatas
Just put jb weld in the spark plug hole a start it up real quick. It will fill them scratches up
Ha love it! I'm dropping in Wiseco pistons and Manley rods.
Is there a way to pair it with OBD II Data for cars with OBD data available?
Not that I'm aware of. You could potentially use an app like track addicts to match up and overlay.
if its rwd i think you want all the power to the back?
The key is to dial in enough knee pressure to have the rears contribute without locking up. Weight transfer plays a much bigger role than drivetrain configuration.
@@completetuningsolutions you wont lock up if its in gear though? Like almost imposible?
@@BEYTEK no it'll lock them if I hit the brakes hard and have too much power to the rear.
What pins are those? Do you know if I can buy them direct and avoid the extra splice?
They came with the Megasquirt kit. Here is the full kit from them: www.diyautotune.com/product/ms3pro-plug-play-26-pin-options-port-connector-package/
Let me know your thoughts. Have you used this tool before? Interested in seeing the comparison to the Amazon style one I have coming? Please note apologies on the audio drop, would it benefitial to correct and re-upload?
What did I miss? Was this useful? Anyone inspired to mount their Holley in the factory location?
YOUR THE BEST HERMANO
Glad to help!
Thanks for the video, I actually have to do almost the same job here, minus the lid riveting.
It wasn't too bad. Take your time and measure a lot, cut slowly.
@@completetuningsolutions I did, turned out great!
Awesome! @@ninokri
Great series with a lot of good information. I watched/listened as I was doing a cut and crimp set of plug wires on a small block Chevy. Having spent a good part of my career working on these and other import vehicles these are sound practices for just about anything held together by nuts and bolts. Keep up the great content.
Appreciate the input!
Update: The linoleum tops slid so perhaps some glue would work versus the factory adhesive.
Funny that I got this video recommended. I also have a red NA Miata, and I also made crib blocks for it. I went with 8 layers of 2x4's, staggered like you did. On top of that I have two layers of 3/4" particle board and 1 layer of 2x12, keyed to the top like you did, and giving me a total height of 14.75". I think I used them when I pulled the trans...You need a lot of height for trans removal when you do the clutch, etc.
Small world! Makes sense for the height if you are dropping the trans out the bottom. I'll keep that in mind and "key" some extensions for that day. Who am I kidding, hopefully I can have quick jacks or a 4 post by then. I do plan on pulling the motor later this year and the trans will go out with it out the top.
@@completetuningsolutionsIf you can afford quick jacks or a 4-post, that's ideal. So many people have told me to pull the motor and trans together. And if you have the room, sure. I have limited ceiling height and limited garage length. I had no problem pulling the trans out the bottom. And when I rebuild the engine in the near future, I'll be dropping the trans and pulling just the engine out the top. Hope yours goes well.
This will definitely make your brakes perform better! Good luck with the rest of your upgrades!
Hope so! Let me know if you want any details or other tips/tricks as I film this car build.
This looks sick omg 😍
Thanks! I hope it performs as good as it looks.
About to add these to my exocet (probably overkill). Noticed you used the standard torque value along with the threadlocker. Loctite recommends reducing the torque seting by 20%. Have you had any issues with disassembly?
I was just following their instructions. Haven't had to disassemble yet, but don't think it'll be an issue. I usually shoot for close to max setting or a smidge under, never over when using loctite. Aware it does give me a mechanical advantage and the possibility to overshoot.
Dam 6.8 with a manual 😳
Yeah the finals was just as impressive. The track prep was ON POINT this weekend.
Nick is set on kill💪💪😎
My favorite was the consistency over the weekend. It wasn't a glory run, kill mode all weekend every hit.
Killer supra wow
Yeah that Supra is no slouch.
Do they make this for the rear end as well the bump stops in my rear coil springs rusted out want to know b4 I get to work on it with a welder and some 2 inch pipe I already orders these for my front end
Sorry I'm not sure if they do, didn't see this comment. Hope it works out for you.
Do I have to welded the part???
Nope. It's a bolt in affair
Its welded?
Just bolt in and go. Dorman's website has additional details.
Will that be an issue if it rains?
Thanks for commenting, sorry on the delayed response. While I don't forsee it being an issue I have a contingency plan. I can easily move the filter inside the engine bay in a rain situation by clamping it on the end of the pipe that terminates right before the turn down into the fender area (why I made a junction there as well on the downturn) and capping the hole. I'll just be sure to pack those things in my spares "in case of rain". I do run the factory undertray so I'd only be concerned in a downpour situation. Great question!
Do they make a set for the rears also?
I'm not sure, sorry. Don't see why not
You saved my Jeep!! Thank you so much for this!! A grateful UK Grand Cherokee WJ owner.
Glad to pay it forward on the Internet
Great video, thanks for posting. I was under the impression that this was supposed to be welded in, but i guess not. I think I would pay a little extra money to have someone weld in a new support rather than this fix, but I will keep both in mind
Yeah or even jb weld works too. Idea is the spring + vehicle weight holds it down in place.
got to love those "safety gloves"..
Yeah! I got tired of getting stabbed and I lost gloves in the garage when they are camo.
Great video.Thanks.
You're welcome. Let me know if you have questions.
Very clever, I had no idea. Thanks!
Glad to be of service.
my wj is leaning, 10mm on rh side. if its not a broken spring, im going to look at these things
Did this fix it for you?
I know it's probably ok, but where are people getting the information that ATF +4 is compatible with the 44-45? I can't find anything official anywhere. It just seems like a word of mouth thing.
the older manuals for the ds had it speced that way. I saw a photo of it. In think ram has rationalised it now and specifng the special oil for the 44 case in both. I am going to run just ATF 4 plus in mine.
I had found a paper awhile ago. Could have been on bobistheoilguy
same for me but I hear you can't use atf 4. I called the dealer and they said def don't use it. has to be the expensive shit I guess
There was a change for 2016+ rams. Many of them got the 44-44 Borg Warner transfer Case and that requires the special sauce. The older 44-45 tcases allow atf4+. There are some 2012-2014 1500 ram owners manuals floating around showing the call for atf4+.
@@codyfisher3706 Really? My dealer said they were using ATF until they could get more MOPAR stuff in. The guy I spoke to said it should be fine. Too late for me I guess if your dealer is right, I went ahead and used the ATF+4. I may change it out whenever I can get my hands on the recommended stuff.
Just drop xlutth
Dropping the clutch wouldn't work in this scenario as it had to much clamping pressure. Thus trying to get a controlled slip.
What insulators did you use
Moog
I got the almost the same setup as yours because these videos, I know it is an old video but What kind of line lock are you using? I'm looking at the rsd and cartek right now, my abs isn't working and I'm having problems with the burnouts
Fastbird line lock. He posted on the c5 forums
Man ur a life saver thank u a million I juss discovered mine doing the same thing and was thinking about getting rid of it but I’ve done so much to the Jeep but do u know if they have some for the back and if so could u put the link in the comments for me anyway thanks again
I'd check doman's website. Not sure they make tears, sorry.
Sad to see this track go away. :(
Yeah for sure.
Awesome!! You made it look easy. Thanks alot.
Hope it helped!
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO!!!! I'm a big time diy and was about to pay $400 to have this repaired on my jeep. I saw this item before but didn't realize it was a bolt on and I don't own a welder. Thank you man. God bless.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you! Had no idea these bolt ons existed…Unfortunately i we to u pull it and bought a replacement Dana 30 … hope I can return for credit
Happy to help!
I was doing ball joints on my 02 last year and noticed the sway bar mount was gone completely. Wifes car never run off road but to many years of Cape Cod winters. Luckily I have a welder torch and scape steel. Rebuilt for free she bought a 2018 and I am driving the 02 as a winter beater to save my truck from salt roads.
Rust can really eat these up
I've owned it for a year now. Thing still rips.
Awesome!
04 Z06 here... what is your intake and throttle body?
This would have been a LS2 throttle body with adapter wiring and a Mamo ported FAST 102.
Where did you get the software and OBD 2 unit?
Alpha OBD is the program you are looking for. Many bluetooth OBD2 scanners should work, the Alpha OBD software gives some recommendations. Works well for any updates needed. www.alfaobd.com/
At what power point would you think this is a good idea over just having arp studs?
Many say 600+ it is recommended. The manufacturer recommends it at 350hp actually as the individual caps can shift. This motor made 900 without it however, so your results may vary.
@@completetuningsolutions Thanks for the reply, I figured it'd be around there. I was making 550whp last year and just swapped to a 6766 so I'll have the potential to hit around a thousand. Guess I'll keep it turned down until I have time to pull the motor and toss the girdle in.
@@schafer240 before they were a product we were making 700+. The girdles drastically reduce your chance of main issues.
@@completetuningsolutions I could see that, it's probably even a better idea for me as I'm running a 2.4 Galant 6 bolt motor which has all individual caps. I'm a fan of kiggly, I have their springs/hla and trigger kit. Not cheap but the quality is outstanding Only thing holding me back from just tossing this in is a line hone. I wouldn't want to risk it with the amount of money I've tossed at this motor
@@schafer240 unfortunately you'll want to do that (line hone). This is especially true if you aren't running ARP mains.
Would applying seam sealer prevent any more rusting of the perch?
It might. My worry would be that you would trap in moisture. I just did a heavy coat of Rustoleum.
I had a 95 eclipse with the naturally aspirated 2.0... totaled it. Now that I have been on the forums in search for a replacement 2g 4g63t I shorty found out they are bad engines because of crankwalk and do not come with a 6 bolt in any year. They say to stay away from the 95-96. If you can shed light on this subject that would greatly appreciated. Thanks
Thanks for commenting! The 7 bolt 4g63 is a good engine and the crank walk issue has somewhat been blown out of proportion. The key for any engine build is to set the thrust bearing, main bearing, and rod bearings correctly. This requires proper machining and assembly techniques. I went with a 6 bolt motor for this build as it was what was available to me locally at a reasonable cost (this is a 1/2 filled and o-ringed shortblock for drag racing application). In a 2g DSM I would absolutely go with a 4g63T 7 bolt. Much easier to install (as you don't have to do the 6 bolt in a 7 bolt modifications) and at this point in the game the aftermarket has more support versus the 6 bolt (as you can use 4g EVO internal parts most of the time). 95-96 motors are fine. Tips to avoiding crankwalk include: Not to heavy of a clutch. Proper assembly techniques and torque values.
Nice! A true driver's car with the manual transmission. I have a 98 6-speed modified but I don't drag race it.
Thanks! It was a really fun car to campaign. Please consider subscribing to get updates on my Stealth project (automatic) where I'll be targeting deep single digit passes.
Anyone tried using these with a radar detector as a mute switch?
It should work as a momentary interruption (or connection) as long as the amperage going through the switch is minimal.
what tables did you change on the o2 data? id like to learn how its done.
Most of the tables are around O2 MV rich/lean voltage. This is done AFTER you make sure your airflow modes are accurate representations of airflow mode. Short lesson is that GM uses an Airflow Mode to determine where you are in a range of closed loop airflow. You want to set those tables at your idle parameters. Then you can adjust your rich/lean voltage for those airflow modes to ensure that you are accounting for the lag that happens when you move 02 sensors from a factory location and the overlap you get from a camshaft install.
Awesome video , I was doing my tie rods today and noticed I have the same problem . What type of rubber boot do you get for these?
I'm not following your comment, my apologies. I painted the sheet metal with black Rustoleum and put in these new perches. The rubber in the video are new Moog Spring isolators.
Dorman 926-078 & 926-079
Thanks! I'll have to update the description
Part link?
I picked them up off Amazon. www.dormanproducts.com/p-128363-926-078.aspx