Відео

It was just something I cobbled together. The bolt from the cam sprocket, a small piece of PVC pipe, and a piece from this HF caliper set: www.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-11-piece-63264.html?gQT=1

Nope! Still happening

I began rethinking the attempt almost immediately

plans always seem foolish in retrospect. Most of the time, 20% into a job the plan is out the window

good luck!

Save your money. The bloopers & outtakes reel for this job would be 4x the length of this video

good luck!

Noticed some oil on the backside of the engine. Start of a slow fail and figured it was time. Never got to the point where it hit the exhaust. No engine whining. Good luck!

Is there a way to replace the washers without replacing the entire bolt? I should have just not re-used the bolts, is what the consensus seems to be. Tough lesson to learn

@@damnedhumanrace you actually just add washers onto the existing ones. if I remember correctly it was 2 washer added to each bolt. I don’t exactly know what but these bolts are very fragile. I’m going to have to do this same job on my 04 highlander. I gotta say you just have bad luck my dude when working on cars.

​@@Sci-Mon1 I think if I take that cover off again I would just spring for new OEM bolts. They're only a few bucks apiece. Part of me just never wants to turn another wrench on this car

We never smelled this stain. Was hidden under a carpet, we didn't know about it

152k

Ryobi multi tool with Rigid right angle drill attachment

@@damnedhumanrace what was the drill size again?

@@bhadz100 not 100% sure what I used but the guide I followed used 7/64". Don't think it really matters as long as it's small enough to go in through the seal without nicking the edge

removing two or three issues I think the pure gasket replacement probably took me 10-12 hours? Hard to estimate because it was spread out over several days. Definitely wasn't rushing. Knowing what I know now I could probably go back and get it done in 6-8?

@damnedhumanrace just finished installing the plugs, coils and gaskets. Front one was simple, the back took me the rest of the day. The gaskets got caught on the rear passenger side and I didn't realize it was off until I was almost done tightening the bolts. I took off the cover again reset the little piece of gasket, and then retightened the bolts making sure that the gasket was in place. But that's enough for tonight! I'll put the rest of that together tomorrow and take it on a test drive then. I think I'd rather do the timing belt again then the back gaskets! my back and knees are killing me from leaning and climbing over that van!!

@@MattL.-KE0SAW yes I agree timing belt was an easier job than that rear bank alone. I lost feeling in parts of my hands for weeks from supporting my weight on the engine in awkward positions. I was paranoid about the gasket slipping out or getting caught like yours did. As far as I could tell it went in ok, but access/visibility is so tough in some places it felt more like hope than a confirmation when I was checking it

@damnedhumanrace exactly! That entire back valve cover is done by feel alone and nothing else. I think a blind man would have an easier time than us with that one!

talking should not be allowed on youtube

Thanks very much for this reply. I didn't use the Toyota seal packing black but I did use RTV. Misapplication of the RTV is one of my leading theories to explain the leak, along with the 69 vs 96 inch lbs on the rear bolts. Definitely did not remove those half-moon pieces but I don't think the leak is coming from there. Good note on the bolt shouldering- if I end up re-doing the rear cover I'll spring for all new bolts. It will take me a while to talk myself into making another attempt at this

Home Depot rental. People do it every day.

only if you're changing the seals behind them. Don't need to loosen them just to change the belt

it's (some type of) oil not water

in retrospect maybe not the worst idea

there was no visible problem, it's just recommended to replace them at certain intervals

@@damnedhumanrace .. Nice.. What is the supposed time or number of kilometers?

@@damnedhumanrace There is a project to buy 2007 v6

@@adiladilalhmady106 looks like Toyota recommends 90,000 miles or 145,000 km

Thanks! To my knowledge this was the car's first replacement belt (also my first time ever doing one). Car was showing no symptoms or issues, but I think recommended replacement is every 90k miles and this was done at 152k (I've owned it since 35k miles). Overdue on paper but the belt looked to be in excellent shape when it came out.

Rhode Islander here as well. 😀

@@kuelguy2403 Nice. I'm a transplant but I've been here long enough I guess I should come to terms with the fact I'm a RI'er

you're probably right that it wasn't necessary. I was piecing together the steps I took on this job from other videos and tutorials. The gasket manufacturer did not call for it, but I didn't see the harm in it. Especially as the mating surface had that bit of corrosion

@@damnedhumanrace you did a good job anyway and I'll be tackling this job soon. My props to you regardless Sire.

@@UndesirableOne-g7n good luck be patient

You could do either TDC or 60 degrees Before TDC (60 BTDC)

hard to put a number on that, maybe 20-ish hours? I was trying to be careful and not rush. Also filming every step added a bit of time

Did it work?

yeah the only thing that would have made this more enjoyable would have been getting rained on. Good luck!

Video linked in description: ua-cam.com/video/s9LksZmDOsQ/v-deo.htmlsi=Y9dtHZzCHBJY3DkB&t=1463

@@damnedhumanrace Yeah, I watched that video, but there were some questionable items in the video (for example, like putting the timing belt on backwards and not knowing what the mark on the crank gear was for) made me question the “bottom out and back off a 1/2 turn”. Was looking for documentation on this method.

@@Joel4JC yeah sorry I have no official source. I think the reasoning behind it is if the stud is backed out some before the nut is applied, it is less likely to bottom out and strip the threads while the nut is being torqued

@@Joel4JC not official but: www.cumminsforum.com/threads/head-stud-install-question.550354/#post-5704404