Відео

didnt even show one FET exploding... self resonant, they really do not appreciate abrupt changes in load AND inductance, ie, throwing a steel bar in the active coil. eye protection is a must (or point them away from you, lol...) never had an issue turning them on WITH iron in the coil, but to push it in, or remove it rapidly whilst running... instant failure :) epoxy spraying everywhere. so... turns ratio. you can control the power drawn and delivered to the load with the turns ratio. work is always "one turn", coil is primary of X turns... 7 here. ignoring circuit losses, say its pulling 960W. (easy maths) or at 48V, 20A. that means the coil is "appearing" to be 2.4R. meaning the work is 2.4/7^2 or about 0.05R. resistance reflects at the square of the turns ratio. (shutup about it being impedance, dont get too technical... it doesnt actually matter! not measuring power in the tank circuit, simply power drawn from the supply, and the "resistance" or "load" that would cause that DC draw.) you can say theres almost 7V in the workpiece. 7v/0.05= 135A... therefore, power in the workpiece, or I2R... 135x135x0.05= 940W not too far off, i rounded a few decimal places here and there ;) also, V2/R is the other power equation... 49/0.05=980W. again, i rounded a few decimals... for the same work piece, adding one turn for 8T on the primary will reflect it at approx 3R, which at 48V will draw 16A... giving approximately 720W... or removing a turn for 6T, will draw around about 27A. for approximately 1280W in the workpiece. double check any calculations by running it at 24V, etc, everything should work out to give the same "work resistance", especially if you consider the circuit losses. by altering the turns ratio, crunching some numbers, you can adjust the power drawn. stay within the current ratings of FETs... supply... etc... this doesnt alter the voltage requirements, assume a resonant rise of 6x... you need minimum 300V FETs for 48v... 6-800 for 100V supply, etc. an irfp250/ irfp4668 are 200V devices. of course theyll break down when the tank hits 300V or more. all the snubbers are doing is reducing the power in the tank circuit, and thats why its drawing 300W or so unloaded... your snubber has limited the voltage in teh tank circuit. rather than bouncing like a spring, its being damped at the peaks, and that power has to be replaced on every half cycle... killing teh resonance may reduce the voltage rise, but its doing it at teh cost of excess power consumption. unloaded, it should only draw the power lost in circuit losses, radiation, etc. a parallel resonant tank poses a high impedance to the supply, most of the power is dumped into the "R" of the coil... which is a transformer, as described above. unloaded, with a very small R... almost no power should be consumed.

Can you help me to make this one

How can you be so successful in everything? You are so inspiring. You are amazing. I feel like crying right now."

Could you share how you made it with me? I want to make one for myself, but I don't know where to start. please

How is it "extremely dangerous"? Terribly misleading title!

how its the circuit RC of peak absorption?

Can you please share values of snubber C and R? Describe more what upgrade have you done. Thx

I so badly want to make one of these furnaces! I want to try making high entropy alloys at home 😅

Pressurized flammable gas is pretty dangerous yeah

are you sure this go up to 3000c??? maybe you mean 3000f

Coper roaches 😂 looks like you definitely need an IR filter lens.

Cool contraption, I just use my hand, it took a lot less time to build.

nie spawa tylko wypala dziury

Bone ceramic?

Knife made by Animal Bones.

Ball snack

ceramic

OK, I watched the other vid with subtitles, an inert gas would be much better, even nitrogen. Try hydrogen, sure it is reactive, but it will improve the penetration. CO2 is, well, you know.

爽

If you are interested in the production tutorial and detailed process, please click this link and remember to turn on CC subtitles：ua-cam.com/video/wCij6W4vylE/v-deo.htmlsi=BvV4dkWYIUipl6jd

very cool. lol those are some mega beefy cables as well !

直流电弧炉，底阳极

Would highly, highly recommend you get some foundry gloves mate, at the very least some welding gloves. Neat video though!

Use it properly. It is safe and efficiently reliable

Долго копашишся.

How are you touching high current without getting shock?!

hi

That's a lot of fried MOSFETs! Nice 48V mod!

This ruby is too dark to make a laser from. Actual laser ruby is pink. What you are getting is spontaneous emission rather than true lasing

Looks pretty cool, great job!

It's like anything,abuse it and can go wrong way.What made it more dangerous in the mines is because open flame and methane do not mix.

Pretty cool project! Nicely done with that high voltage arc start and height control!

Why there is so much static noise in the background 😩

больше распыляет металл , чём плавит . НО работа проделана " моё почтение"

попса! лазерная плавка покруче будет!

I believe you can add a wire wound choke to shorten the pulse width on the caps and get it closer to what your rod needs. Pretty neat just as it is too!

I would like to build one of these, do you have any schematics or videos of you making one? I wish I could just buy one somewhere, honestly

Can you explain how you make that ?

I work in a steel making company and Iwant to make a mini EAF like yours

Gute Experimente. Besonderer Respekt gilt dem automatischen Lichtbogenzündsystem. Aber die Leistung reicht aus meiner Sicht nicht aus. Ich habe erfolgreich mit einem Industrieschweißgerät mit ca. 70 kW Leistung experimentiert. Carbonstäbe mit einem Durchmesser von 50 mm. Strom von 300 bis 1000 Ampere. Spannung von 30 bis 60 Volt. Dafür ist jedoch ein industrielles dreiphasiges Stromnetz mit ausreichender Leistung erforderlich.

可以跟你交個朋友嗎 我留意你很久了

大神終於復活啦 等你等得好痛苦呀 我還以為你給抓了 你應該是同一個人吧

Ciekawy projekt!

A bit more code for the welding process Ah, a hollow rod would be best, as then de-carbonization can be achieved and a nitride hard steel can be produced... also titanium can be added with an argon flow. I assume you are using tungsten rod and this would be best for an add on to an existing electric furnace.. waiting for your upgrade. Happy grinding of the casts.

Bravo.......carbon arc light........great job......cheers

Better question; where does one source a 60,000 uF capacitor?

LOL.. I found directions to make a carbon-arc furnace in an old 1950s "science & engineering experiments for kids" book back in the late 80's. It told you to get carbon rods from old dry-cell batteries, crimp them in lightweight curtain rods, and use a terra cotta flower pot as the crucible. And the best part? Just wire it directly to your house AC mains power with a cut extension cord, using a glass ash tray, salt water, and lead fishing line weights/sinkers for a rheostat. 😂 Of course, being the smart kid I was, and that nobody in the family smoked, I would just use a spare dimmer-knob light switch in the house workshop as that was a factory made rheostat. And would obviously be far superior to some janky thing made with an ash tray, lead sinkers & salt water. I did actually strike an arc, for about 5 seconds. Then the dimmer switch melted. 😅

that poor welder is not designed to work at 100% duty cycle, it will give up soon if not given adequate cooling period

so without mirrors to bounce the beam to amplify the light, this is a non amplifying laser? A 1/2 bounce laser?

Есть лампы такие... могу продать