Відео

@@Mr_Resz thank you!

I have no idea lol.

Thanks

Rx7 now has a n52 engine out of a bmw

@@osielcarizales3479 I’m King Kong nigga lmaooooo

Been so long I don’t remember 😅

HVAC blend door actuator

Aye k primear el diesel o falta de aceite o presión de aceite

It’s probably part of the fuel pump assembly

@@osielcarizales3479 I guess industry has gone away from under the hood routine replacement ones now. I don’t have a problem I was just looking to maintain if needed. Thanks

I believe the fix is to replace the fuel tank

I didn’t fix it I simply took a video of the issue to see if anyone can explain why it’s happening. My best guess is that it’s static electricity caused by the belt rubbing on the crank pulley.

The damper on a harmonic balancer is bad

About 6 hours I remember finishing it in one day

@@osielcarizales3479 I have a 2012 6.6 not getting fuel and leaking fuel down the back of transmission

Sounds like a fuel regulator is leaking but your statement contradicts itself, how can you be leaking fuel if your not getting fuel. :) Tighten down the line to specific torque.

Estas bien loco Amor. 🤣

@@lilianalopez5024 verdad amor 🥰

@@luisespinoza2945 Si bb. 💓

@@lilianalopez5024 miamor Te quiero mucho corazón chula eres mi niña hermosa ❤️💕

@@luisespinoza2945 ytb Amor 🥰

Sending you some better days from California man :( sorry to hear about that battle, at least you got a good story

I don’t remember timing it to any marks

@@osielcarizales3479 I learned cp3 doesn't need to be timed. Cp4 needs to be lined up

Es aqui en el terreno

@@osielcarizales3479 q bien si llovió aya

Thanks dude. How’s the quality of the video?

@@osielcarizales3479 looks good 👍👌

Your dad is gay

Because they run so well when properly maintained just cost more the average japanese car.

@@osielcarizales3479 Interesting that some major repairs that should not happen now come under maintenance. They are a poor design on many fronts that have way too many problems even when the mileage is not that high. I don't find that acceptable.

@@TheAllEngineering Having to clean the intake valves before 100,000 miles or way below does seen very inefficient in a economical point of view cause the car will spend more time in the shop, more maintenance, but more car manufacturers are using direct fuel injection, because it saves fuel economy. Direct fuel injection is the main cause of the increased maintenance issue, Because when fuel gets sprayed before the intake valves, that keep them clean longer. Still I wouldn’t buy a European car they are expensive to keep up with. I read fuel additive helps the issue, or using certain gas station premium fuel also help. I agree on buying is a terrible idea, maybe leasing or renting is a better idea

@@osielcarizales3479 Yes direct injection does over some benefits in fuel economy and emissions. You would have to save a lot of fuel to offset the extra cost of the higher maintenance. It is not optimal across the complete operational range which is why brands like Lexus actually have both direct and port injection. The engine management selects which is optimal to use at any given time. The intake valves are kept clean as a result. There are also too many other issues with those engines that keeps owners forking out money to keep them running.

Use a pry bar to loosen it

have to get that money in somehow it's not that hard the second time around.

somebody gotta do it

Sorry! Where in the video did I slam it ?

Oh and my codes dont come back immediately. It has to be driven a while

I do have that door transmitter code as well.

I gave up on this Audi a few years ago it really pissed me off cause we ran new data line from the pressure sensor to the new bcm. Tried 3 new sensors. This car made me feel like I didn’t know how to work on cars.

Hello, I have the same problem and no one can solve this problem. How can you help me solve the problem?

@@osielcarizales3479 with high spikes in the AC pressure switch I ended up getting a manual gauge to verify pressure was spiking to 30 bar. Well after replacing the AC compressor and getting the Right amount of refrigerant into the system and ran it a long while it started to work. The variable compressor had to calibrate itself cycling the AC. If the vent temperature sensors dont work it will not self calibrate the variable compressor properly in VCDS. I had 1 vent that wasnt opening up in the dash because of a blend door motor. Replaces the blend door motor and now the sensor can read vent temperature and calibrate between that and the pressure sensor. Also if you put too much compressor oil in the ac system you can run into issues of too much liquid running though even if you put the correct amount or refrigerant in the system. If you have a blockage in the system also it will cause a spike pressure on the high side and the AC will shut off into a safe mode till the pressure goes back down to normal. After it goes off several times it goes into safety mode and disables the button on the dash for AC. After fixing several of the issues and removing lines after vacuum the system down and flushed the AC lines with cleaner and replaced the expansion valve and gone though it thoroughly. Got it all back together and with the correct amount of oil and refrigerant and ran vcds and recalibrated it running. Oh and radiator fans not running like they should will make the AC not work as well. Anyways, I got it running and recalibrated good and the owner gets the car, drives it a week and no word, 3 weeks no word. 2 months good. Didnt hear back and got a call saying everything is working nice about 4 months later. Just have to go though it and clean out the system. The variable compressor and system is sensitive and took some time to balance the refrigerant and run the calibration probably 13 times overall before giving the car back to the customer.