Відео

Thanks for the tip. I've used these sorts of magnets on most of my builds and have never had an issue with them coming out, but eventually you are probably right, they will come apart. I appreciate the insight!

YESSSS, honestly one of my favorite cowls to date.

Usually start by using a file to get fid of the large layer lines and then fold up pieces of sandpaper to get into the crevices. It takes a long time and a lot of work. If you can get away with using resin parts for detailed pieces instead of PLA, ABS, or metal material you wont have to sand much at all.

Do you mean like putting in mesh to cover the eyes? I think that would work great actually if that's the aesthetic you want. I think some white mesh material glued to the back of the mask around the eyes would look sick

Unfortunately, some people will buy the files and resell them. I'd recommend buying them from Do3D since that's most likely where they originated, and you get updates for life. Otherwise it might be another version of the cowl you found that is SUPER similar to the one from Do3D.

Heck yeah! Lets build it together 💪

Thank you for your honest feedback!

If you scale it UP your servos and screws will probably be a bit loose. However, if you only scale it by about 5% (105%) you should still be able to getaway with a slightly loose fit. I'd just make sure to add a few extra layers of filler primer and paint to hopefully narrows the tolerances. Either way you'll have to do a bit extra work, which is why I just printed mine at 100%. I didn't want to deal with scaling it.

@ i would like to make it wearable but my head is little bit bigger . Thanks for the idea to fill it i think it could work. Maybe if i fill it with pla pen and put a brass where the screw will be or something like this 🤪

@@odinrado honestly a PLA pen isn't a bad idea! I think that would work pretty well.

Yeah Prusa slicer is good, I've never had any issues with Cura though.

Yep! Measured the circumference of my head as well as the width. Then scaled my helmet down to fit those dimensions as close as possible. In this case I scaled the helmet to 90%.

Try using Orcaslicer instead, it's pretty much better in every way.

Have you made a temp and retraction tower for the filament you are using? This will help you narrow down your temp and retraction settings for the brand of PLA you have. In the video example my retraction was set at 6.5 mm and speed was 25 mm/s. That was just the value that was automatically populated. I find I get the best results at 7 mm and speed at 50 mm/s when printing with Overture PLA. That's just what I do :)

@@jnssmnsn orca suggest retraction to be turned off ;-; I'm using cura rn

​@@markitmade8319 i am using creality hyper pla :) i did not make retraction and tem tower ill make sure to print them and check

@@AnshumanG-e9k Orcaslicer does not, please learn to use the software before stating anything like this. Cura has way worse print quality.

Like this one? www.do3d.com/product-page/zoom-mask-from-the-flash-3d-model-project-682?origin=notification

I thought about that too! I think you are 100% right, would look better with the mouth cover

Duuuuude you are so right, I'm gonna change it.

The concentration of sulfuric acid is about 30%

20% Pretty much everything in this build was printed at 20% infill :)

Just Rustoleum's 2X Primer: amzn.to/40MG2il

Figured someone would comment this. Although I don’t use an enclosure I keep the room ventilated and closed off from the rest of my house when printing. I usually have several printers going at once (printing different materials) and keep an eye on them with web cams.

@@markitmade8319 Good to hear. The stuff is no joke.

Very very carefully. Better to take your time than rush through it and break something. But even if you do break something you can always PLA solder it back together and sand away the weld line. Also, use a lot of filler primer, it is your friend :)

@ thank you! I think I might use a few layers of spray putty first to minimize the amount of sanding needed. And sand by hand. Your videos are really useful, I’m looking forward to getting the full suit built!

Awesome! I’m working an a Batfleck suit as we speak 😩🤌

Did you even watch the video? I credit the designer multiple times in the video and have a link to his Thingiverse page in my description. I didn’t steal anything. I’m just documenting the build of the design that he put on Thingiverse for everyone to use.

@@markitmade8319”the designer”. But PCB Way is outspoken multiple times. Gotto make that cash right. The only place you can see that Boxandloop os the creator in your links is when you click the thinglink. As you say, stay classy!

@ PCBWay printed the parts, they didn’t design anything. It was not my intention to take credit for someone else’s work, I’m just documenting the process of the build. I’m not familiar with Boxandloop which is why I say the designer; I found the design on Thingiverse and thought it would be a cool build. I’ll try to make sure in the future to mention the designers by name.

It's marketed as a brush-on coating for 3D-printed parts, but after testing it and comparing it to epoxy, it's basically the same thing.

basically but I think its got slightly better capillary action? pretty much indistinguishable tho.

@@cdgamer7306 my thoughts exactly!

I agree with you, but still think this thing is great for kids

There is a link in the description that should take you to a google drive with all the files :)

Yes I spray inside. It’s in my basement. It has a large fan on the back and I have a duct hooked up to a window. It works really well. I always wear a respirator, but overall, the smell is minimal and doesn’t spread anywhere else in the house. I actually believe I got mine on Amazon…I can try to find the exact one I purchased if you’re interested. One of the best investments I ever got tbh.

Haha unfortunately, no 😂

Including the cost to print from PCBWay? If you choose to print the files yourself (which is completely viable) you can plan to spend about $210. That includes material cost plus the cost of all the electronics assuming you don't have anything. I purchased the electronics from Amazon probably about a year ago (I purchase things in bulk since I do so many projects) so the prices might be a little higher now. The EXACT items I used are in the video description. If you include the cost of printing with PCBWay you would be looking at about $340. So, not a super cheap build, but a cool one for sure. Should keep you occupied for a while if you go for it.

@@markitmade8319 thank you appreciate it.

Depending on the material and size of the print I think its really affordable tbh. Especially for people like me who want to post videos more often but also work two jobs on top of that. I don't have a lot of time to do post processing on my prints at home so its a big win for me. Plus I LOVE that I can get prints in aluminum and stainless steel even though they are expensive.

Thank you for the feedback, I really appreciate it!

Not sure which one or what is used in this but I have a couple that shutdown when there is no load and also some that shutdown when there is a low power draw which is below their minimum output level, both these situations are a pain in the arse as I have to press the button on the power bank to activate it again. So basically they will charge something till it reaches nearly charged and the wattage demand falls and then shut off not fully charging the device and then not automatically start up again when the device needs charging. As said a right fooking pain.

I actually tired purchasing a cheaper power bank from Amazon and could not get it to work; it was a 5V 2A, basically the same one I used just a cheaper brand. I then bought the one in my description from Adafruit and it worked no problem; it is rated for 5V 2.1A. With the power bank I used, if I don't open the mask for a while (more than 5 min) the power bank will "go to sleep" and you'll have to press the little button on the side of the bank to energize the servos again. Might be annoying for some people but I don't mind.

Also, for the Arduino Code you might get an error after uploading the code to the board (after selecting the right one). If you get the error just test the board with the servos to see if the code was uploaded. I kept getting an error and spent like 2 hrs trying to figure out what was going on just to find out the code was uploading and executing no problem lol I'm not an Arduino expert though so it was probably something stupid I was doing XD

Thank you so much. I am definitely gonna get back to finishing it. I thought I wired it wrong. I was only able to get the eyes to light up. Not the servos. I've never used arduino before either. This was my first time.

@@dculnan Let me know if you run into any issues and I can help you troubleshoot if needed.