Відео

I can't remember100% but... I think... The 7 pin plug is used to connect and disconnect the electric supply when the roof is raised and lowered. I think... the battery is in the gas locker on the front of the caravan. I hope this helps.

Hi Terry, I copied Kalaakaar Makerspace ua-cam.com/video/0K0s-RR0Puo/v-deo.htmlsi=NdxidASx6ba-L9Y8 I hope this helps

Hi Kev, thanks for such a quick reply, but I posted the comment in the wrong video. The Arduino code I was looking for was for your video “Part 1 Arduino”, you wrote in "Practice makes better" ua-cam.com/video/Ru7ZCAhxA_8/v-deo.html “Hi just made a DRO based on your design. I have put a link in the video I've uploaded and also acknowledged that my design is based on your design. I couldn't get your Arduino sketch to work and had to re-write it. I'll share the new sketch in the near future.” That was code I was looking for, I hope I have not been to confusing, kind regards Terry

Hi Terry, this is where I got my ideas from... ua-cam.com/video/BsQyL_qcO3o/v-deo.htmlsi=CDc-gXKFSLu1lKmQ

I know when I did the project I had problems with the file from "Practice Makes Better" . It wasn't far off but I did have to alter some lines. Unfortunately... it was so long ago, I can't remember what I did. I just researched how to to write the sketches...

Hi Kev, thanks again for your replies, My problem is in the line LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27, 2, 1, 0, 4, 5, 6, 7, 3, POSITIVE); When Verifying I get the error message; Compilation error: 'POSITIVE' was not declared in this scope Not knowing enough about Arduino code and reading through all the comments trying different suggestions not get anywhere, I think I will give BigBoyRasp code ago and see how I get on, thanks again Terry

It is available.

I put this video up for a friend of mine. He bought it after going on a Norton factory tour. The rest of us have got old British bikes as has he. He tried coming on rides with us, on the Norton... it just wasn't suitable. He's just not using it. So what's up with the Norton 961? Nothing! It's a modern bike with modern performance and braking. If you want to ride around with guys on Pre-war bikes, this isn't the bike for you!

Hi, It's a while since I did this video and I would have to watch it to able to do it again but... You can make a anti clockwise magneto into a clockwise magneto and vice versa. So the answer is... Yes.

@@kevracer3980 any help will be appreciated as to how. I only have this one magneto,and they are hard to find here in South Africa otherwise.

@@MrStinger1988 Hi Mr Stinger, I have added written instructions to the video... I'll also paste it here. There's lot's of written instructions on the internet but it takes a bit of getting your head around the instructions... That's why I made the video. Kev Below is a description from the AJS/Matchless owners club site. hope it helps. Written by John Allen & Johnny Walker, July 1988 Internal Timing of Lucas SR1 Magneto. For a magneto to work successfully the contact breaker must open during a region where the change in magnetic flux is the greatest. This sounds complicated and fortunately on magnetos with rotating armatures the contact breaker plate is keyed to the coil assembly so this is not a problem. However the cam on the SR1 can be placed at any position relative to the rotating magnet and you can get into an awful mess. If you rotate the armature of an assembled SR1 magneto, without either the contact breaker or cam fitted, you will feel two areas of resistance to rotation and two similar regions where the rotor is pulled by the magnetic flux. These are the periods where the changes of magnetic flux are the greatest. You have to choose the correct period. Again rotating the armature you will note that the region between pull and the resistance will feel soggy and slightly strange, the magnet is in line with the magnetic path through the coil. The contact breaker should be about to open immediately the resistance to rotation is felt after this period, see the sketch.. The optimum position varies slightly and will have to be found by trial and error. With everything assembled and the contact breaker tapped on to the taper at the chosen point clamp a short length of heavy gauge copper wire, or brazing rod, to the body by one of the end cap fixing screws so that there is about a 1 millimetre gap between end of the wire and the stud on the coil. If everything is correct, and the coil, condenser, contact breaker points etc. are in good condition; there should be a healthy spark when the armature is rocked backwards and forwards. The spark should occur in the direction of desired rotation (clockwise looking from the contact breaker side for an AMC single). The cam can be repositioned slightly, usually in an anticlockwise direction, to give the best spark. If there is a double spark it is likely that you have not chosen the correct region of magnetic flux change.

@@kevracer3980 thanks a bunch. With this description I got my D going for the first time since I got it 2 years ago. Don't even know for how long before that. I was lucky enough to get it right after the first 2 tries. If you are on the The "Original" Lister D Type Stationary Engine Group on FB,I dropped you a mention and thanks

@@MrStinger1988 Glad it helped you.

I tried them on my Triumph Metisse scrambler. I ordered them from Falcon and they were supposed to be set up for the bike. Way too much damping, shocks used to ratchet. In the end the rods (3/8") bent and I bought NJB shocks. Much better. No sign of wear after a few seasons of use. This was just my experience and I'm sure lots of people have a positive view of them.

@@kevracer3980 Great answer, thanks for response! i'm quite intrigued by the njb, might have to give them a go

£2250

Sorry Nick, I've used them since the video was made and they still look good but I haven't got a video of them being used. With the present situation, I don't think I will be in a position to make one... There is a photo of me riding the bike here:- facebook.com/photo?fbid=10158957864356180&set=g.117744448242755

another photo facebook.com/groups/117744448242755/permalink/3058045657545938

@@kevracer3980 That’s a TRW 500 isn’t it ?

@@nicksmith7552 Yes, TRW engine in a HT5 copy frame with a Burman gearbox

The length is adjustable between 335 and 385mm and cost only £203 a pair. 19/12/2020 www.njbshocks.co.uk/#ultimate. I hope this is of help.

@@kevracer3980 That’s a great help, I appreciate the reply. Thank You.

Just make it clear.. the no answer, was to the question does the direction of rotation affect the strength of the spark. Also I made a mistake in the answer, it's not the points that are moved, it's the cam. To be more clear (hopefully) The cam has to be changed to match the rotation of the magneto. T Below is a description from the AJS/Matchless owners club site. hope it helps. Written by John Allen & Johnny Walker, July 1988 Internal Timing of Lucas SR1 Magneto. For a magneto to work successfully the contact breaker must open during a region where the change in magnetic flux is the greatest. This sounds complicated and fortunately on magnetos with rotating armatures the contact breaker plate is keyed to the coil assembly so this is not a problem. However the cam on the SR1 can be placed at any position relative to the rotating magnet and you can get into an awful mess. If you rotate the armature of an assembled SR1 magneto, without either the contact breaker or cam fitted, you will feel two areas of resistance to rotation and two similar regions where the rotor is pulled by the magnetic flux. These are the periods where the changes of magnetic flux are the greatest. You have to choose the correct period. Again rotating the armature you will note that the region between pull and the resistance will feel soggy and slightly strange, the magnet is in line with the magnetic path through the coil. The contact breaker should be about to open immediately the resistance to rotation is felt after this period, see the sketch.. The optimum position varies slightly and will have to be found by trial and error. With everything assembled and the contact breaker tapped on to the taper at the chosen point clamp a short length of heavy gauge copper wire, or brazing rod, to the body by one of the end cap fixing screws so that there is about a 1 millimetre gap between end of the wire and the stud on the coil. If everything is correct, and the coil, condenser, contact breaker points etc. are in good condition; there should be a healthy spark when the armature is rocked backwards and forwards. The spark should occur in the direction of desired rotation (clockwise looking from the contact breaker side for an AMC single). The cam can be repositioned slightly, usually in an anticlockwise direction, to give the best spark. If there is a double spark it is likely that you have not chosen the correct region of magnetic flux change.

@@kevracer3980 Your advice is an important resource. I understand it very well. I had an inkling of what it meant, but I couldn't be sure.　This explanation will help me to better understand the adjustments to the camshaft which will help me to get a better spark. I've been documenting the SR1 maintenance, and it's a setup that's close to what I imagined. However, I have found that my hypothesis is wrong. I appreciate your consideration.

@@ratteshop9622 There's lot's on the internet about the SR1 but sometimes it's difficult to understand. That's the reason I made the video. If used in conjunction with the other information... all should become clear!

It's a while since I did this video and at the time I did quite a bit of research. Everything I read and from my experience doing this job gives the answer no. You are correct when you say position of the poles relative to the points is different depending on the rotation direction, that is why the points have to be moved very accurately to match them to the flux point of the rotor. I did the video because it took me a while to understand the instructions in the Lucas manual! brightsparkmagnetos.com/library/LWImags/Magnetos%20SR1,%20SR2,%20SR4.pdf The cam timing is on page eight. I hope this is of help.

The height and the preload adjustment are seperate. The preload will affect the ride height due to the springs compressing, if there is not enough preload. The shocks have been good and reliable. If you let NJB know the weight of the bike and yourself, he will be able to advise on different springs., if they are required. I made the video, as I couldn't find any information on line..... I hope is of help. Kev

They suit me on a 500cc classic trials bike and I'm pleased I bought them. I have tried other more expensive shocks in past but found they didn't last long.

Forgot to say.... They have been used regularly in classic trials and still look as good as new!

I have had mine for a year and half. They still look good and work great.