Відео

Well, I left my good camera in the car TWICE! Too far to walk back so I used my old Galaxy.

Hi, Thanks for your message. Nothing but props broke. Love Carbon Fiber. I just made some more improvements like heat sinking for the LED's. The crash was operator error. I took the throttle too low when I was bringing it down because I was fighting an updraft and so it lost synch. Go figure! Activated Air mode and problem solved!

i dont know but ill bet you can figure it out. maybe you need to log in first. good luck.

Im not a tech, just a customer passing on what i figured out. Good luck.

Natural Gas. Thanks for our comment.

Sorry for the late reply, I don't have a source for parts. What happened?.

@@TbstUSA i tried to clean with eletronic contacts cleaner. i dont know but seens its not made of glass or acrilic, its a kind of transparent resin. and when i aplied the product the lens melted down. :(((

@@antoniorecacho5854 Hi. I have had success with Meguiars ultimate compound to put a fine polish on auto headlights and it will even polish glass. It MAY help you. If you have nothing to lose and depending on how bad it is you can go to an auto store and get 500, 1000,1200, 2000 and even finer wet sanding paper and carefully smooth the surface. Start with the finest that renders good results without cutting too much plastic off. FIRST try the polish but dont heat the plastic up if you use a buffer Go on youtube to see how to do it but do this at your own risk but what do you have to loose at this point? Tape edges so the debris don't get on the sensors. Keep in mind, try not to take too much off and try not to alter the shape of the lens. What do you think?

@@TbstUSA i have a cup of this here. i will try.

Hi. Thanks for your warning about complaints! I can't be sure how this will come out for you but I think because there are so many people working there with so many departments and so many orders that they can't switch gears fast enough. Take screen shots of your cancellation and the don't worry message so you have ammunition should you decide to pursue this to your satisfaction. It also don't help that they are sleeping when we are awake and vice versa. Not defending them, just trying to make you feel better. I have had difficulties with them but in the end they took care of me. I wish you luck!

Yes, If you clicked on read more I mentioned tha near he endt. Crazy though that the customer has to calibrate instead of it being correct when it was sold. thanks!

@007 Thanks for the input. I don't have a PC and updating the firmware on a Mac is not possible. So I got a refund and moved on to a different make and model and things are working out just fine.

@007 Thanks again. I could do all that but for me personally, that's not time well spent. I expect something to work out of the box and if I have to tinker with it down the road I'd rather be doing other more productive adventures. Like flying! :) But indeed, I do appreciate your feedback. I'm just happy I found a suitable replacement and it work well.

Hi. Actually I think the top is covered with protruding smaller stacks off of the cover. There is also the lightning arrestor. Any prop contact with anything would result in a FAIL! Also the radio signal will fail as you suspected I suppose if you want to lose a drone that would be one way to do it. The drone used wasn't exactly designed for good aerial shots and a look down view may have been more fun. Ledrib flew a massive cooling tower so you can look for that but it was a wide open stack for some signal to get through.

Here you go. www.readymaderc.com/products/details/strix-4s-parallel-charging-board-2-0-jb-signature-line. they have a 3s as well. The battery meter isn't very accurate but I use it each time I charge.

I knew there must have been others with the same issue. I tried every idea that I got from the forums and tried my own diagnostics. the F.C. was just bad, the bottom line. betaflight 4.0.0 was said not to be a final version for release that's why it locks up. you have to use B.F. 10.4.x and it won't lock up on you. I emailed Happymodel, Eachine and Banggood. Nothing back from Eachine, Happymodel wanted me to ship the F.C. back for repair which was really awesome because they didn't even sell it to me but were willing to help. After leaving Banggood a detailed video they offered me a replacement flight controller. If you don't mind fine soldering you would have to transfer the tiny wiring harnesses to the new board. For me, i opted to partially pay for a complete replacement. took a month to release it for shipping but I am good to go now. Maybe they will treat you better. Good luck, let me know how you make out. By the way, the replacement came with B.F. 4.0.0 but I was able to flash it. Also I like the 450mah tattu batteries I get almost 4 mins out of them at 1s.

Hi. I don't know what you are asking, can you supply more details? Can I guess that you want to parallel charge several 6s batteries at 10 amps? if so, the input power supply has to be able to handle the total watts and the charger is limited to 300 watts so at 6s 10 amps you're talking around 250 watts (25 volts X 10 amps = 250 watts). Always supervise the charging of lipo batteries especially when using high current.

Thanks for your comment, I did not have USB3 on my windows 7 machine but I did on the Windows 10 so that further confirms your findings. I must have assumed that anything that can do USB3 will also do USB2 though. Here is a crazy thing I did with the output. To discharge a battery quickly, I put an 8 ohm heater coil that can be tapped to lower if needed, I set the input voltage to that of a battery in storage and had the charger throw a couple of amps into the heater coil until the input dropped to the voltage that caused it to be cut off. It cant be left indefinitely though because the battery will continue to drain by powering the charger.