Відео

@@gilsaulog3051 This was a while ago. From memory around 1300-1500mah

@@shmelie 1.make sure you have a good mesh. Mesh needs to be close but still spin freely without binding, pinching or whining sound you also get if too close. You need some play but only the smallest amount. 2. you also loosen the slipper clutch a little(not too loose obviously) This also affects the driving dynamics too If the slipper is very tight the vehicle will easily wheelie if that's not want you want you can loosen as a form or wheelie control but it's main purpose is to protect the spur gear under heavy load. Ideally the slipper clutch will slip before you destroy your gear. 3. use a harden steel pinion not a brass one. A Brass pinion under high speed will heat up and deform creating sharp teeth that will chew your spur gear A harden steel one will not deform under high rpm.

@@newbraskia.3992 Upgrades are in the description. Only thing I would do if possible is change the hubs and hub carriers to proper 17 hex hubs instead of an adaptor. As the axels are very week. Also if bashing off road best to get 2.2/3.0 SCT wheels and tyres with 12mm hexs instead of using 17mm hex adaptors

@@druscanam Thanks for that I appreciate it! I am looking to race not bashing. Looking to enter a cheap E-Buggy try to hang with the more expensive brands out there.

@@newbraskia.3992 What are you planning to race in? This particular vehicle is a 1/10 SCT platform that's been modified to mimic a 1/8 Buggy. If your going to race 1/8 off road I don't think it would stand a chance. It's much lighter and uses a slipper clutch instead of a proper centre differential. If you're after cheap better to go with something second hand from Serpent/Kyosho/ TLR/ /team associated or Tekno. Or maybe find a cheap Arrma 6S typhoon and buy some of the TRL edition hop up parts? For cheap Chinese cars, maybe FS racing, DHK or ZD racing 1/8 Buggy would be your best bet. VRX do make a proper 1/8 Buggy too which would be better than the blast for 1/8 off road racing

@@stephennogare I feel like stadium trucks are just like that also. You could try running a shorty battery up front of the battery tray as well as loosing your slipper clutch a little bit and maybe run a little less gripper tires depending on the surface you're running on be it a high traction or low traction surface. I guess the positive is on low traction surface like loose gravel or dirt it should grip pretty well.

@@STREETH4WK www.ebay.com.au/itm/293661310358?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=t7VbWmHDTC2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=KCHO5z_hR5O&var=592472834097&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@STREETH4WK I Send a link on Ebay where I brought from but if youtube deletes it (as it seems to do when you share links) The product description on eBay is 2pc Front Rear Universal Drive Shaft CVD Part for HIMOTO 1/10 Remote Control Car As mentioned, it's a rebranded Himoto Tanto. On the Tanto, the brushed version had dog bones, and the brushless version had universal shafts.

@@druscanam Great! Thanks very much.

Yes, beeps and slows down.

@@druscanam thx i will buy 1 right now

@politie_jip112 you won't be disappointed. I would suggest the 144001 1500mah 2S battery for more batteries. Fits perfectly into the battery tray and has a bit more punch being a lipo. It's actually what it is running in this video 👍

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@@druscanam i have some cnhl 1500mah 2s 13 euro a piece i have 4 of them

It's just brushed and only 2S. Also, it stays very cool, too, after 3 battery packs in a row. Must just be set up really well. I might later down the track. Try it on 3S after I've already driven it a fair amount. If it can take 3S well like my brothers FT009 did (apart from the tamyia connectors plugs on the FT009) Then I won't bother with brushless If it burns out on 3S, it will probably make brushless. Either a 2440 or 2445 3000 or 3600kv motor or a 2838 or 2845 motor around the same kv using a 3.175 to 2.3mm adapter.

There's already a video of that, RC tanks and trucks 24/7

For sure although I found it even cheaper now. Although even if it was $100, it would still be worth it when compared to something like the Horizon hobby pro boats cost. Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! AU$59.19 70%OFF | 2.4GHz TY725 RC TURBOJET PUMP High-Speed Remote Control Jet Boat Low Battery Alarm Function Adult Children Toy Gift a.aliexpress.com/_mMg4AMW

Actually planning to do some up river rapid races with it.

Yes, the CNHL 3S hard packs fit perfectly in the battery tray.(Black and Orange ones like in this video) They make 3 types, 5600mah, 6600mah and 8000mah. They are all in the same size hard pack, difference is size and weight of cells inside.

Stock they have been tested on 2S at 32k/h with stock 2435 3300kv motor. So with 6100kv motor theoretical speed is 59k/h. That said most 2345 motors have a 2.0mm shat. However, the stock ZD racing 2345 3300kv has a 2.3mm shaft sor make sure you get a motor with a 2.3mm shaft. Most common size is 2440. If you put the stick pinion which is meant for a 2.3mm shaft on a 2.0mm motor shaft it won't fit nice and flush and will vibrate and make this noise like in this video and eventually wreck the spur gear so make motor shaft is 2.3mm 👍

Does it seem a bit expensive, but then again, inflation. Maybe try and look for something used. Atm, it's a buyers' market as lots of people just don't have the cash to go buy stuff, so sellers on marketplace are being forced to drop prices used RC's are going much cheaper than new.

Maybe, it could possibly keep the magnets cool although the brushes and commutator would still wear prematurely fast due to the extra friction

It's a 22T tooth pinion (stock is 23T) and stock 81T spur. Battery use is a GNB HV 6000mah shory pack located in the front part of the battery bay. The motor is around 3300kv I calculated which is around 24,000rpm on a 2S. It was labelled with a small 12T sticker but given the rpm is exactly what they stated the 17T was. I made a previous video on this you can have a look which explains it. A true 12T 540 motor would generally be around 30,000rpm if I were to run such a motor I'd probably run it with a 14-16T pinion which I did at first but realised it was only around 24,000rpm and was getting around 30ish k/h so I geard it to get around 50k/h. Also I'm running on hard top so it's ok, I end up selling this car and he lent it to someone who burnt the motor and ESC out probably running it off road on grass under higher loads so really also depends how you run it. The set up worked well for me and what I was using it for though.

😊😊🎉❤

No switcable high and low range transmission like some of the RC'S at the time, espiscially the Trucks.

The name is Turbo Hunter its by Ho- Kai Toys.

Lilydale, yeah people use for speed runs. They don't make GRP'S in this size. You can put them on but it will upset the handling balance of the car as well as raise the ride height or reduce give you no suspension travel, also you'd need some adapters to make it work too.

Thanks, I was running it today at diffrent track (road track) on 3S today I have two mongooses and was actually running it my other one cause I already converted this one back to brushed. This time on a 2-3S 60A ESC and it handled even better cause I had new rear tyres and lighter weight. It's also good since the brushed has a 12T 540 open bell brushed (although I personally think they gave me the 17T version given the rpm/KV) anyways that one does 51k/h on 2S on a 22T pinion now with it's worn in (47k/h before). I haven't tested the the 2440 3000kv with 18t pinion on 3S but given it did 68.6K/h on 4S the 3S speed should be around the same (51-52k/h) On track the brushed motor doing the same speed actually got much hotter and I had to take a few breaks. Didn't do a video cause we where having too much fun but I think I might keep these two set ups for now and use the 3652 3300kv motor and 4S 80A for a 4WD SCT in the future. Hope to get some more footage as well as off road and on a buggy track

Tbh I was surprised myself. Low KV, low gearing and higher voltage defenently helped. I think in the future alot of RTR vechile are going to start running lower kV and higher voltage set ups in their off road RC's for better drivability and lower temperatures.

I think for general off road bashing a regular size motor might be better for off road traction. Although on a high grip surface I think the lighter motor would be better. Have a track video comming out soon look out for that one.

Obrigado. É sim!

Thanks 😊

Where in the world do you live? I'm actually selling this one.

@@druscanam Annapolis Maryland USA

@@randallandrews120 Ok I'm in Australia. The one I brought was ready to fly including radio/gyro battery and charger. Sounds like you already fly and have radio gear did you want me to link you a PNP version?

@@druscanam I would definitely be going with a plug-and-play. I've been flying for a little over a year. Started with the little 400 MM Corsair warbird with a six-axis gyro. Now up to a 1270mm FW190. The challenge with living on a boat is you run out of space real quick.

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Hoons gold in the Video. Probably only around 5% better handeling then stock elevens but last around 3 times longer which isn't really that long. Handels nice, well balance but limited by overall grip. On a warm to hot day on a preped surface a Kyosho GT running GRP's or sweeps will demolish Vendetta just because the limits before you hit understeer or oversteer are much higher. The main problem on track with the Vendetta on track although it's well balanced it just can't turn in or carry higher corner speeds compared to a 1/8 running up to temp GRP's I have a Serpent Cobra buggy and even that with S3 GRP'S on a good day will beat the Vendetta. However set up and temps need to be on point otherwise they will not hook. The tyres and set up for the Vendetta running hoons gold or elevens will be better for street or less then perfect track condition. On a parking lot yeah, the Vendetta will be able to take the Kyosho on.

No drag brake on mine. Rolls on zero thottle as normal. I'd get yours checked out.

Yeah definitely a fun choice if you have a lake to fly over, also surprisingly fast too.

Before brushless was a thing?

@@druscanam Back when it was a thing but the motors and speed controllers were still quite expensive so people would experiment, 2004ish

Thanks, the front shocks are very similar to the stock ones since the superhornet did come with factory oil filled shock, main reason it to preserve the shocks for when I re sell it. Unless you're referring to my shock mount fix 🤣 I got a new chassis but again not going to replace until I sell it. Can't believe these cars have shocks mounts fixed to the chassis, seems a bit excessive to have to change the whole chassis just from a broken shock mount.

In lilydale, Melbourne, Victoria

5.8V BEC

I have a list of all the mods I made in the description.

The stock electronics r junk in it i Heard

@@mikelester5524 Not bad for the price point. At this price on an Arrma you're only gonna get a brushed system. Didn't have any issues with mine on 3S or 4S. Did get hot on some hot days but that's not unordinary. It's not a true 1/8 vechile but similar to Arrmma's Vendetta/3S/Mega platforms so likewise doesn't have a true 1/8 power system but more like years highend 1/10 system. If you were looking to upgrade I'd probably just replace the 3670 motor with a ribbed 3674 with a decent heat sink and fan system. On this car your far more likely to find the limits of the vechile before the limits of the power system. Out of the box it has some pretty noticeable handeling problems that need to be resolved

You're welcome. Yes I now have it in my 1/8 Cobra and it works very well in that too even though it's designed to be a 1/10 scale servo. As you can hear when centred it can be a little noisy but that doesn't seem to affect it's performance or self centring abilities. It's fast responce is due to being a cordless motor as opposed to a core motor. This one seemed particularly good value for the speed.

​@@druscanam I just ordered it after watching your speech, and I saw that it has a coreless motor. I was actually unsure about the difference between a coreless motor and a brushless motor. the servo that you put into 1/8. I'm positive that was the servo's superb performance. thanks for your nice reply, appreciated.

@@user-zs4iv3vf5m Brushless is different again and the most premium. Brushless is a 3 phase permanent magnet motor that works from alternating current insted of DC current and without brushes, as such they are more efficient, power dense and stay cooler when worked hard and are tge most expensive too. Both core and cordless motors are both brushed the different is a core motor uses a heavy iron core whilst a cordless motor uses a cage of lighter coper windings using a special process to achive the same effect whilst having much less rotational mass as well as using better magnets too. The result is a much more responsive servo. Although it's also more expensive than a core motor servo too. So basically its like this Core motor= simple cheapest and most basic Cordless = more expensive but much better reaponce and speed. Brushless = most expensive but superior in speed smoothness and efficiency. In terms of speed and reaponce the most noticeable difference is between core and cordless. With brushless you also get much quicker response over a core motor but the difference between that a a cordless motor is not really significant that main difference is efficiency and longevity as it will last alot longer. So if your racing and you want it to be the last servo you have to buy then a brushless although more exis a good investment

@@druscanam Thank you so much Andrew for your thorough explanation of the differences between coreless and brushless motors. This was incredibly helpful to me in making my servo pick. thanks for great help and good luck to your Rc race.