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when your done with painting bottom before it dries the tape will peel off easy.

Thanks!

I believe this is it. Genuine Ford 6L2Z-7G276-AA Connector

It depends. I would suggest you follow your vehicles recommend oil. Some vehicles recommend a winter blend and a summer blend. What I found was the 5w-20 Havoline seemed to lose oil pressure when it got hot, leading me to believe the viscosity is below 20. I didn’t have it tested so I’m not sure. An oil engineer friend recommended 5w-30 because I live in a hot climate. I’ve had no issues for over 3 years. Hope this helps.

@@rjyoungjr very helpful thanks. I have an 18 f150 5.0 and there's a bunch of cases of low oil shown on dipsticks and ford made a longer dipstick for the 18-20 trucks I believe. My dipstick last night was below the minimum line but is it really low in the question. Hence the question of running a 30 viscosity instead of 20 to thicken things up slightly to see if it helps, which I've heard it does

Thanks. I actually did several videos. The root of my issue ended up being a low idle. The rpm gauge only changes in increments of 50. Mine was reading 650, but was actually lower. I increased the idle to 700 and no more issues. The appropriate idle is 650-700.

Hey my 2011 f150 with 5.0 engine has about 200k miles . High mileage. But I haven’t had issues with my transmission should I still get it replaced. I am running a tuner idk if that has helped but no prombles here ?

Sorry, not transmission line, transmission lube. Spell check changed it.

No issues. Been running it for over 3 years now.

You're welcome!

Thanks!

Thanks 👍

Not sure what you mean?

Yes. No more issues.

@@rjyoungjr Awesome news, thanks for the quick reply!

Lol

Check out my last video. The root of my issue turned out to be the idle was set to low. If you have the factory gauge, it changes in 50rpm increments. Range for idle is 650-700, but without attaching a meter to measure exact rpm, 650 might be 601. Can’t be sure when the gauge goes to 650. Changed mine to read 700, never another problem and the hot spot on the starboard manifold temp sensor went away. Good luck.

@@rjyoungjr that’s very interesting, thank you for sharing this information. 👍

I agree. Mine has about 150k. I’ve kept up all the maint, all fluid changes, etc. great truck

Were you running it on muffs or was the engine submerged. This engine will not cool properly using muffs. It must be in a barrel, or you can hook the hose up to the rear hose wash port and run it. Just don’t rev the engine. Idle only. If everything is working right, should be around 140 on the temp gauge. I don’t remember what the high temp range is on the engine before alarm, but it’s hotter than you would suspect. However, even here in Florida running hard in almost 90 degree gulf waters, mine never gets above 160.

@@rjyoungjr Thanks. I was running the engine on muffs. I will try the other way and see what happens.

Please look at my final video. The root was not the part, it was the factory idle set too low. If the idle is set using the Suzuki gauge, it is plausible for the idle to be set 30-50rpms to low, but show 650 on the electronic gauge. I used the butterfly idle adjustments on the engine to achieve 700rpms at warm idle, and that solved my problem. It was only a quarter turn of the idle screw that made the difference. 2 years and no more over hear issues. I’m assuming that the temp sensor that is causing your alarm in the port side manifold sensor. If not, you may have a different issue.

Not sure if you saw the final video, but the root of my issue was low idle. When the boat was set up, I’m guessing they used the rpm gauge on the Suzuki cluster. This only reads on my boat in 50 rpm increments, and I don’t know what rpm causes it to change from 600-650-700. Mine was set where it read 650 at idle, but it may have been idling at 601 for all I know. I did a slight idle adjustment on the rear butterfly valves, and now my rpm gauge reads 700 at warm idle. This is what fixed my issue, which was a manifold temp sensor on the starboard side of the engine. I changed all the parts and 50rpm idle change fixed mine. Been ok for 2 years now. Hope this helps.

Julian there is a good video or two on you tube that shows you how. But in a nutshell, 1. Disconnect the battery and discharge the system. This drains all the capacitors and any other energy storage components. Using a jumper wire speeds this up. 2. Reconnect battery. Before doing this make sure nothing is in the on position in the truck. Like the a/c especially. 3. Start the truck and let it idle for about 5 min. Then put in gear with foot on brake for about 5 min, then turn on max a/c in gear for about 5 Min, then back to park and idle for 3 min, then a/c off in park for another 3. This process assumes you have cleaned the throttle body good before beginning. I would encourage you to find and watch the video on this as it covers the steps in more detail.

@@rjyoungjr Thank you sir!

Thanks. It was a journey.

Sorry to hear that. I guess you have probably watched all the videos. Took me a while to figure it out. Not sure what they have checked.

I have a few questions about your situation. Was the boat in the water when you was idling? Or was it on muffs? Do you have a Suzuki gauge on the boat. If so what rpm does it read when at idle and at operating temp? Do you have a laser thermometer that you can check temp around the motor with the cowling off to look for hot spots? Is the motor new? How long since the impeller was changed?

@@rjyoungjr I had it in a bucket. I tried muffs but they didn’t work (west marine muffs, pretty sure they were just bad) I don’t have an rpm reader, however it was on low idle. The impeller is brand new. The motor itself is actually a 2000, but I bought it from a shop. I’m 14 so mu budget is tight which is why I went with that option. As for the thermostat, no. I might be looking to replace it though as this happened.

Is it a 25hp or a 250?

@@rjyoungjr 25hp. I have a small 14ft McKee Craft.

Ok. That motor is vastly different than mine. Check for blockage and thermostat. Good luck.

Yes that appears to be it. I made a couple more videos on the problem as well. I think if you subscribe they will pop up, but anyway I chased this problem for a year. In a nutshell, my issue ultimately was the motor was idled too low. The Suzuki gauge moves in 50 rpm increments. Suzuki states 650-700 is the correct idle. I have a long shaft motor, and although my idle showed 650, I think it was idling closer to 625 or less. I made a minor adjustment to the idle set screws on the intake butterflies(1/4 turn), and now my gauge at warm idle reads 700. At cold idle it still reads 650, but as the engine warms it moves to 700. Since I did that, all my overheat issues at idle have gone. Hope this helps.

The small increase in idle allowed the engine to pump the required volume of water to the top of the engine and prevent the exhaust manifold temp from rising too rapidly, which was what was causing the alarm. It. Ever reached an overheat threshold, but the computer monitors temp rise, and if the temp starts to rise too fast, it goes into alarm to prevent overheating.

Awesome. Thanks for watching. Make sure they put the correct oil filter too. I strictly use Motorcraft as they will have the correct check valve if the engine calls for one.

Assuming you have no other issues, remove the engine cover. Looking at the top rear on both sides you will see where your intake butterfly valves are. There is a set screw there on both sides. I turned mine clockwise 1/4 turn. This raised the rpm when the engine is warm to 700rpm. At start up and until at operating temp, the Suzuki gauge will alternate between 650-700. When warm it should stay at 700. The recommended rpm is 650-700. Hope this helps.

@@rjyoungjr hi, as you tell in your video, I change RPM, but it's the same, when I am at idle, wait 10-15 min and it overheating. Nobody can tell me what to do. maybe you have an idea. thanks paul

Hey Paul, have you watched all the videos? Have you removed and looked at your thermostats? Have you removed and inspected the high pressure water relief valve? Have you taken any of your anodes out and looked inside for corrosion? When was the water pump last replaced? When the alarm goes off what is the engine temp displayed? Using a laser thermometer does it match your gauge? If not, where is the heat occurring? There are 3 sensors on top of the engine. 1 is in the middle and it basically monitors engine temp where the thermostats are. Then there is one on both sides of the engine on too of where the exhaust manifolds are. You can use a laser thermometer to see if the entire engine is overheating, or if one side is. Need to narrow down what could be causing he overheat. You said your RPM didn’t change. It should have. Do you have rhe factory Suzuki gauge?

@@rjyoungjr hi, I rewatch everything and clean all, I effectively have one thermostat wich was Bad. Now, the overheat is ok. But now I have a problem, I was cruising to fishing zone, and after 45 min, rpm shut down form 4000 to 3000, and regulate. I try to switch off the engine ans After turn the key ON, and pull out the security to cancel error and After the engine run good for 30-45 min, and same problem. Do you have and idea ? Thanks Paul

@@sharkfishing159 are you getting an overheat alarm when the engine derates? Any alarms?

I have a series of videos that talk about all the options. Take a look at those. With the oil change and then the light right after, that makes me suspicious of the oil. It should be Motorcraft semi-syn, not full syn. On the 4x4 sensor replacement is a little more work,but still easy. Unless you live in a cold climate, I would change the oil to 5-30, or go back to Motorcraft 5-20 semi syn.

Thanks for watching. First thing is while you were changing the sensor, did you verify oil pressure with a mechanical gauge? Although it is unlikely that you actually have a oil pressure issue due to the oil pump or other engine problem, it would at least tell that these other steps will work. For now let’s assume you have good oil pressure. 1. Verify idle using a scan tool or by simply looking at the tach. Idle should be around 625 in park with AC on, and 525 or better in drive with ac on. Without the scan tool it will be hard to see the minor dips in RPM that could cause the drop in oil pressure to set off light. If Rpm seems low or sporadic, remove the throttle body, clean with throttle body cleaner, reinstall, and then do an idle relearn. 2. For oil, how many miles are on the engine? What type of oil are you using? Did you recently change to a full synthetic? What climate do you live in. Always warm, like Florida? 4 seasons, or colder like North Dakota or Canada?

Did you find your problem? That’s when mine is doing it. I’m thinking oils sludge needs cleaning prior to a oil change. ?!?