Відео

This sensor is required for all electro-viscous fan clutch systems. It cannot be eliminated as long as an electro-viscous fan clutch is used.

@@kevinalbers1084 Just showing a part of how the device works inside.

Não é um adaptador, é um app.

I use a bluetooth OBD2 adapter as the interface between my android phone and the vehicle data network. The brand Inuse most often is a Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBDII available on Amazon for about $15 US dollars.

Is there something specific you didn't understand in the written description?

Pretty much, yes. Each gear is splined to a shaft, either the intermediate shaft or the CV axle shaft. Each gear has teeth on the outside diameters and these teeth get coupled together by the collar that is moved by the shift fork driven by the actuator. The actuator (at least an original one) has a coil spring inside so if the external teeth of the gears are not aligned and the shift collar cannot easily slide over the mismatched gears then the coil spring of the actuator compresses allowing the actuator to go full travel. When there is a little movement of either of the 2 gears and the teeth move into alignment the coil spring will move the shift fork and collar coupling the gears together.

Yes, the intermediate shaft is nearly always spinning. Generally the front driveshaft spins due to friction inside the transfer case clutch pack and the rotation of the drivers side cv axle. It may surprise a lot of people that most often, while rolling down the highway the intermediate shaft is actually spinning backwards. When cold at 65 mph mine spins about 1200 rpm backwards. This drops to about 700 or so once all the fluids are fully warmed up. Don't discount the possibilty of a driveshaft being out of balance. It happens.

Aapke dimag par hai

You might need to push in where the actuator pushes in, using something like a long screwdriver, and slowly turn the passenger wheel at the same time so the two gears get lined up. If you can push all the way in where the actuator pushes, and spin the front passenger wheel, with neither the drivers side wheel nor the front propshaft (between the transfer case and front differential) turns then it is possible that this disconnect has something broken inside. But it could also be something broken on the front differentail.

@@thomasjbaker7688 Thanks for responding! I took that disconnect off and opened it and it's fine. I guessing it's the diff that's messed up but it's new it was replaced last month. But the transfer case and front driveshaft lock up so It almost has to be the diff

@@IkeCoblentz Maybe drain the front differential fluid and check for metals? Are all the splines OK on the CV shafts and intermediate shaft?

@@thomasjbaker7688 Yes the splines look fine. Ok I'll look for metal

Enable background data and enable app sleep mode in mobile settings

@@Tajbabamh Thanks, but the app isn't listed in the background data section.

App name:- Car scanner

I would closely inspect the outer bearings that accept the passenger side CV axle stub. Also the seal there. These are a very common failure point. I have read where some have replaced the original outer bearing with one that is just a little wider but still allows the original seal to be installed. The idea is the wider bearing carries the load better?

Depends on the scanner tool Not the app

The Android application used here is a simple serial terminal program. Be aware it is just a terminal. Does not do anything other than that. play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.kai_morich.serial_bluetooth_terminal

Same

Same😊

Same problem

same problem😢

Play store

My experience is limited to the 2002 to 2009 GMT360/370 platform so I have no way to know about other models/years.

Car Scanner

It depends on the vehicle. I have only GM vehicles from the early 2000s. For those the Torque Pro app has a set of enhanced PIDs to load.

@@thomasjbaker7688 Ok my car olso GMC so I'll try load external GM PID thanks

@@thomasjbaker7688 can i do this on 1st gen toyota tacoma?

@@MrDarkoKos I don't know. I only have older General Motors trucks

Mod apk

send it to us bro

Comparando.

This is NOT the ignition switch here. Read the description of the video. This is a demonstration, NOT a problem report.

Exactly a waste of time

In vehicle or on the bench? Off the vehicle you need to connect 12 Volt power to terminal D, ground to terminal B and then ground out terminal A to activate the actuator. Remove the ground from terminal A and it should retract. I have another video showing this being done but the connections are not shown clearly. ua-cam.com/video/SpVxIPz5oN8/v-deo.html

@@thomasjbaker7688 I can hear the motor when I reset it but the switch for 4wd is stuck in in auto but I can engage 4wd with a screwdriver and locks in... Sometimes I can hear the transfer case motor and sometimes I don't

@@terrywilliams2860 Is the "service 4wd" light on or has it been on before? Best is to read the codes, but a standard "code reader" won't do it.

@@thomasjbaker7688 code is C0321 transfer case lock I have switched out the switch motor part under the dash and the front actuator and still can't 4wd to work

@@terrywilliams2860 Ahh, well the transfer case lock circuit goes to the shift encoder motor under the center of the truck. Not the axle disconnect up front. What the "lock" is is an electrically released, spring loaded brake that stops the shift motor from turning when it is a given mode and isn't being shifted. Do you have a test meter to check voltages? There is an orange wire that goes from the ATC fuse under the hood all the way down to the shift motor. This wire gives the positive side of the brake circuit power. The ground side of the brake circuit goes from the shift motor to the TCCM (4wd control module) in the left side of the dash. This wire is Tan colored. The brake is released when powered and on when not powered so when the system needs to shift then the TCCM grounds out that tan wire which releases the electric brake and then the TCCM turns the shift motor to where it needs to be,,, then disconnects the ground for the brake so that the brake is on again and holds the shift motor in place. You probably have a bad wire somewhere, either that orange wire is not getting power down to the shift motor or the tan wire is bad going from the shift motor to the TCCM in the dash. It vould also be just a bad connection.

Hi Jason, Do you read other data sucessfully in Torque Pro? Specifically can you read other GM specific data from the extended PID set? These are all labelled in Torque Pro with the prefix "[GM]".

No te va a responder porque no hablas inglés