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Thank you John :)

It really depends on the loco, some are very easy to service, others are a real pain. I'd say the easiest loco to service (so far) are the older tri-ang locos, overall they have very few parts, zero delicate pieces, and they come apart very easily, usually 2 easy to access screws hold the shell on and they you can pretty much clean the entire thing easily with cotton buds. They only thing I'd say is, if you are using rubbing alcohol like me, keep it away from shell and when cleaning the wheels, careful not to get it on the painted spokes, if you do, don't rub it off, just let it dry naturally and it should be fine. They are also cheap, so get a second hand one to practice on for your first attempt, there are loads of videos on YT on how to service them. If you tempted, give it a try, servicing locos can actually be quite fun, relaxing and very satisfying when you see how well it works after :)

@@DaveAtLittleton Since writing this, I have actually repaired a non- running Terrier which now runs beautifully. I have attempted to repair my Adams Radial but the motors are just too weak. I have attempted to fix my Schools class but it has been a nightmare. Really stuck on that one. All of the above (apart from the Adams) were Ebay purchases and all turned up as poor runners. I didn't break them myself! I am addicted to taking them apart now!

Sounds like you're having a great time :), OOBill has serviced some schools, maybe those videos might help if you've not seen them already

@@DaveAtLittleton watched loads of his vids. I will watch those next! The collector arrangement on the Schools is a nightmare!

I used rubbing alcohol as it normally doesn't react with the finish or decals on modern models unless you really scrub as I had to on this occasion. The loco is all fixed now, I used thinned satin acrylic gloss in a cheap air brush and it looks like new.

@@DaveAtLittleton Excellent, thanks. I use paraffin on my live steam locos but the oil is a lot thicker!! I hope nobody uses 460 steam oil on N scale locos…

Great advice 👍

I'll try not to

A very sensible rule to keep in mind 👍

Thank you for the very kind words Mark. I'm not sure I will ever reach Charlie's standards but I am with practice my videos will get better. My videos are all very different at the moment as I am still trying different ways or making & editing videos and working out what works well for me and what people like so thank you very much for the feedback 😊

​@@DaveAtLittletonkeep at it. :-)

Noted, I try to avoided repletion but in videos that are meant to be educational in a sense, repetition is also necessary as it's how people generally learn so there is a balance I have to strike. Yes, I watch OOBill, he's very good, the oil or grease on the loco body was old and had dried and worked its way in to every tight space. I can take apart and clean a loco relatively quick and easily but this one was really bad and that's what led me to making the video.

​@@DaveAtLittletonone of the problems is that many plastics are made from mineral oil, so if any mineral oil is left on the plastic bodywork, the oil and the plastic begin to amalgamate with each other.

That is a great tip, I think when starting out you just assume Polycement is the way to go as it comes with Airfix kits and so there is a strong association there and so people, including myself, fall in to that trap.

@@davidbraun6568 Thanks for the feedback, I do have one but opted not to use it for this video so I could easily bring the camera in close on the damage, but I will try and use it more 👍

​​@@DaveAtLittletoncan I suggest that you make up a semi-flexible arm to mount whatever you are using for a camera: Basically 3 lengths of 2 x 1. One of them you drill through near both ends (the middle piece), and the other 2 drill through (the same hole size) in one end only. Join the 3 pieces with a couple of bolts with plain washers and WING NUTS, to make an arm which can be positioned any way you want, and locked tight with the wing nuts. At one end fix your camera mount, and at the other end make a foot/ base (a couple of small blocks of wood and a board to do as a foot), which can be clamped in place, or weighted down. Simply position the arm to suit your preferred camera view. Hope this helps.

@@martinsims1273 I had not thought of that, thanks!

Haha, well glad I helped you achieve something :)

Such a gentle and soothing voice. Lovely :)

Thanks :)

Thanks, Yes I have one N-Gauge loco (a LMS 4F that I picked up for £25), after a fiddly clean it is a speedy little thing!

True, I have had some beautiful bargains through second hand. With this one, I didn't plan on having it weathered, I would have preferred pristine, however, I am not adverse to having it weathered, and so a slightly cosmetically tarnished loco with be the perfect candidate for me to dip my toe in the water in that area.

@@DaveAtLittleton Try weathering powders, Humbrol make them, very quick, very easy to apply and give a terrific look and finish. I'd spray the bodywork matt black or dark grey first. The powders do stick to the matt, but I'd recommend a matt varnish over the top to aid with handling.

P.S.: I forgot, not being funny, do look at archive colour photos first. Because it's "weathering" it's easy to think it can done without referencing the "real" thing first. Believe me, it won't look right if you don't get a feel for how it really looked!

@@crewelocoman5b161 Thanks, great tips, I will either do some thing like that or I will chicken out and bung £30 to TMC to do it for me

I will have to watch their video to see how they did it, I do want clumpy grass in some areas and I really want it to look like a reflection of natural overgrowth, and less like a clumsy slap dash attempt with too much PVA :)

@@DaveAtLittleton the technique I've seen involves putting down the scenic grass and then manually clumping it up to create mounds.... Then static grass over the top. Seems to create a nice effect, I've just not got the balls or time to try it myself 😂

Yeh, just me rambling, feel free to watch with the sound turned off! Nothing on my channel as good as you produce

@@DaveAtLittleton don't be so hard on your self, Dave. Good advice you gave about that loco!

That’s the worse 9F I have ever seen. 😊 Set of wheels missing for a start.

@@briandugan4974 haha, I best change the title!

Thanks for watching :)

That's very kind of you Martin, I'm glad you enjoyed it :)

Good idea about colour match. On my new layout I have used wall paint on one place, just they sky, but this time I bought an absolutely huge pot so I don't have to worry about the same problem again

Thanks RR, you're right, it could be made good, for me, it just got to the point of, how much effort is needed to put it right vs how much effort is needed to rebuild it and just about reached that tipping point for me. Up until now it had been my plan to refurbish it :)

I think those small layouts are very handy when u just like to shunt and don’t have time to do much else you can really get close to realistic operations with these layouts perhaps think heritage more than a particular railway I’ll be watching it all 😃

Again, great suggestion, when I start laying boards for the fiddle yard I will look up images/plans for LMS marshalling yards and perhaps decorate with some simple scenery, something quick and cheap but that looks tidy.

On my layout, the fiddle yard has cork, gravel paper ballast, and painted the bare board with burnt umber paint. Simple, but makes it part of the layout.

@@garagewindowrailway that's a great suggestion, thanks

Great suggestion, I may do something like that for either a shelf or portable layout, something for when I'm not able to go in the loft.

Thanks for watching. It's 4 ft long and 1 ft deep (120 cm x 30 cm approx), the backscene is the same, size, I bought a 2 ft x 4 ft board (60x120cm) cut in half and folded it. The thickness is 12m,. Good luck with the build, remember the base frame so it doesn't sag and warp like mine. Mike from Hornby Magazine did a short video on how to build a simple and easy base frame.

Thanks MR :) I don't think I'm being too hard on myself, it was my first try and I have had 15 years of enjoyment out of it. I could do what you said but I think given how much I would like to change a fresh start might be easier though I will salvage as much as I can, thanks for the tips!

Thanks Martin 😊

Thanks Donni, do you put pictures of your work on Instagram? If so, I'll follow you as I'm always looking for ideas around weathering, it's an area I'm cautiously dipping my toe in to :)

@@DaveAtLittleton I post on some fb groups and that’s as far as I’ve got, so far - I run older Analogue 00 gauge and like to do Historical style posts, that include some old pics of the real thing, then bring it into the present on the layout. This week I’ve been running (L)NER stock and did a mini feature on the North Eastern Railcar, using a blood and Custard Autocoach renovation and looked strikingly Similar. Gr8 fun to be had 👍🏻✨

Thanks Michael, yes, on some of my boxes, after fitting the added details like lamps, I have found the polystyrene boxes need to be modified. Hopefull, once I get the fiddle yard sorted it will be less of a concern as I can just keep the locos out ready for use :)

@@DaveAtLittleton glad to be of help

and is that my star pencil?

​@@rutheniclmusic8888 *was*

Thanks Martin. It's not but here's a history of Littleton No 5 and where it got it's name preservedbritishsteamlocomotives.com/manning-wardle-works-no-2018-littleton-no-5-0-6-0st/