Of course I am much too early. I make another photo with Turtle in front of the lighthouse and then circle around to find a good spot to park her. Preferably visible from the lighthouse, fun to be able to see her from above. I make a photo from above with her on it later. The air looks much cleaner today, so I am hoping for a good visibility. I have more than half an hour, so I get down on the floor, next to the beautiful stone welcome mat. Waiting for the door to open…
A little before two I hear someone turning the keys on the other side. A man in uniform stands in the door opening and looks around. I say a happy “boa tarde” and he looks down on me. He seems surprised. I get up and telll him how happy I am and that I have been waiting for two days just to be able to visit this lighthouse. He acts a bit grumpy and says it’s not 2 pm yet. He asks what I expect from the visit to his lighthouse. I smile at him and try to find out if he really has a bad temper or is just pulling an act. I am nearly sure it’s the second. His eyes just look too friendly. Other visitors are arriving. A few Portuguese and a German couple.
The lighthouse keeper tells us he is the most senior in rank, the chief in command, and that he is welcoming us personally because most of his men are on holidays. The Germans don’t have a clue what is being said, so I try to translate whenever it’s possible. Our “guide” shows us the photo with all the lighthouse keepers responsible for this lighthouse at the moment. It must be an important thing to be on that photo. The same happened at the lighthouse of Montedor. Lighthouse keepers are part of the Defence department, so they receive a military training. I guess being included in the photo must be part of an installation ritual. I know the military organisation in the Netherlands is very hierarchical and full of traditions and rituals. This introduction gives the strong impression it is no different in Portugal. Lighthouse keepers are responsible for the complete building, they do all the maintenance themselves. They receive a technical training but they are also painters, carpenters and cleaners… 5 lighthouse keepers and their families live here in the building.
Farol de Barra (1893) is the tallest lighthouse in Portugal. It is 62 metres high and 66 metres above sea level, being the second highest in the Iberian Peninsula only one metre below that of Chipiona in Cadiz. I start climbing the snail-shaped steps, 288 in total. In 1958 an elevator was installed in the tower. I understand for the staff it’s a real game changer, but as a visitor I wouldn’t want to miss the experience of climbing it myself. Some of the steps have a small sign with the number counting the steps. Saves a lot of concentration effort. I am too excited to count anyway…
After the main stone stairs a narrow metal ladder follows that brings us to the room where the lamp itself is. It is shining like gold. Another lighthouse keeper, according to the chief the most junior one, is ready to tell us all about it. And only a few minutes later a huge surprise suddenly comes in: Maria and Olli sneak into the lighthouse chamber. They were in the neighbourhood and they knew I would be here… they wanted to surprise me. And since they are lighthouse-freaks too, they are interested too of course. It is so nice to see them again!!!
The officer opens the fresnel lamp for us, to show the two bulbs inside. If one fails, the other will automatically take its place. He doesn’t touch anything with his hands, always a piece of fine cloth to protect the glass and copper from finger prints… he tells about the code of this light: 4 strikes every 13 seconds. Under the lamp is a clock mechanism that used to regulate the code. The old clock mechanism needed to be rewinded every 4 hours. It can still be used. Every single part is still being maintained and in top condition. The fresnel lamp has some additions for the light to be directed to the skies too. It is used to guide airplanes. The importance of nearby airport has lowered, and so has the air function of this lighthouse.
From above the views are stunning. We are not allowed to go out to the balcony. I don’t understand why, probably something with safety. It doesn’t matter, what a perfect visit!!! It’s quite hot upstairs. The other people want to leave. I chat a little with the officer and then descend the stairs too. The chief in command is waiting for me, he wants to stamp my Ruta 181 booklet. It is my first stamp. Olli makes some pictures of us both.
Olli, Maria and I make a silly selfie with the lighthouse and then have an ice cream and coffee. It really was a super surprise to see them in the lighthouse. They will be staying here in Barra. Maria has to work. I am ready to leave this place… I am going to the festival. They might come later. What a day!!!
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