Відео

@@Dr_panda_nugget2 for the size of the bike it has a fair amount of weight at a little under 50bs. I think my real problem with the weight is when it comes to size and pedal potential. Heavyish bike stuck in a granny gear equates to extremely fast peddling with increased resistance and that ends up taking you at a pretty slow pace relative to a traditional bike. Thank you by the way

@@dougsshed6713 well understood, not everyone will agree that it's an ok weight, but I'm sure we can all agree it's definitely a workout we've all needed for the arms 💪😅

@@FNtech61please don’t spread misinformation on this video to give yourself an ego boost. Read page 4 of the users manual. “The rider should not exceed 220 lb.” I am under 220lbs but this melted wiring connection implies bad engineering in the bike. Heat is created by electrical resistance running through the wires and clearly this is a choke point. If the bike had a proper controller to limit amperage going to the motor or adequate materials to handle that load this failure would have never happened even if the rider was 350 lbs. only leave civilized comments that add value on my videos.

​@@dougsshed6713 whatever 300lb crybaby

@@k-sell4065 I’m glad yours is working out! I will admit it was fun to scoot around on but for my use I would have returned it even if it didn’t dry itself. I ended up getting a geared e-bike.

@@dennisoneal8505 do you really think I was unaware of this fuel leak before I tested the pressure? It presented a good opportunity to show others how to test fuel pressure and see what the gauge looks like when pressure drops. I may know what I’m looking at but plenty of others are new to working on their own vehicles with limited resources and this video is intended to help them out in their journey.

I think it's a great video. He took time out of his schedule and made us a video to show us how to check fuel pressure on these engines. It was detailed and straight to the point. Nice video dude.

@@jerrygarcia1730 at least the place I bought from has a pretty good return policy

It is a Maddox but yeah it came with various adapters to fit other makes and models. It should have everything you need in the kit

@@sethsethsethish I’ve used it on 1/4 inch steel and it performs great on it. Most frames are around that thickness so I wouldn’t hesitate to do it especially if proper prep and multiple passes are used. I’ll try to grab some spare angle iron from work and upload an update… if I get around to it lol

@dougsshed6713 that would be awesome as I'm new to welding and looking to do this. Also thanks for reply!

@@sethsethsethish I’ll comment on this if/when I get around to it

@@zerodoinkthirty0 I couldn’t tell you. I didn’t bring a thermal gun with me but after going up a pretty steep hill (the sidewalk has stairs) the bike cut out and quit working. This was after under 10 miles of total riding.

Outside temp was about 75 that day if that matters to you

Damn that sucks. Mine probably filled my tire from flat 50 times. Lowes is usually really good with returns though.

You only need a few tools for the job but even if you hire it out to someone else it is a quick job (30 minutes tops in a shop) so not too expensive anyway. Glad I could share information

If the fuel pressure is too low this can definitely cause a crank and no start situation. Low fuel pressure would typically be caused by a faulty pump or no power going to the pump (bad fuse or relay). Considering yours will start and then randomly shut off my money is on a bad fuel pump and not a fuse or relay. I’d check the pressure like how it’s described in this video and if it’s low get a new pump. As for the P0449 these trucks are notorious for that issue. Fuel often spills where the gas cap is and leaks down a tiny vent tube leading to a solenoid attached to a vapor canister causing it to break. The good news is that this is usually a super easy fix and under $50! was able to replace mine with just a flat head screwdriver in about 10 minutes without even getting a jack out. I doubt that solenoid would lead to a no start situation though. Part that fixed the P0449 for me shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/gm-genuine-parts-vapor-canister-vent-solenoid-214-2311/11680487-p?product_channel=local&store=6189&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=6189&&&&&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD05GhXqydkXjhFpLOGy52QixK2rV&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImoiVvsHZhAMVf2BHAR3ZIgAIEAQYASABEgK9QfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

So it decided to start it ran good about 4 days then went to put gas in it and same problem crank no start. Just changed the solenoid canister and still no start. So should I check fuel pressure and get a fuel pump

Did a fuel pressure test and it's getting 0 pressure

@@doggu696 sounds like you found the issue! Time to get a new fuel pump in there

With key on and engine off between 55-62 or 45-59 with engine running

If I had a large enough garage or shop I’d love to use a mig machine with gas as they are less prone to burning through and it saves needing to clean each spot before putting a tack directly next to it. That said these flux machines certainly can get the job done and on a small budget!

It should maintain pressure longer than a few minutes. I’m not an expert mechanic but to my understanding any loss of pressure that fast would be due to a breach of some sort. Maybe a tiny fuel leak (might not see it dripping) or leaking injectors. Try to smell around for fumes or ask someone around you if they can smell the fumes as your nose might become desensitized to them. An engine light with a rich or lean code could point to that some of these issues as well. The original fuel leak and fume area escaping from my truck is from the fuel pump due to corrosion. This is a common culprit on these trucks. I wasn’t able to see any puddles or dripping because it would evaporate on top of my tank. That’s what caused my pressure drop. After I replaced the pump unfortunately my lines started leaking because I disturbed them while they had heavy corrosion themselves. At this point I made the video and then I replaced the fuel lines. That’s where I’d start. Just reach on-top the tank and see if your fingers smell like gas after touching the fuel pump and lines. If that’s it then replace the pump. I’d recommend ordering new stainless braided flex fuel lines because there’s a good chance you’ll be leaking like me in this video after you replace the pump. Let me know! Sorry if I can’t be more help

@@dougsshed6713 no problem you have helped me tremendously with your input. I appreciate it very much. Ima start looking for leaks and maybe a maf sensor.! Thank you 🙏

That’s actually why I posted this one… couldn’t find another one! Thank you

Glad to help!

Thanks for the kind words! I’m glad I was able to help you out

By any chance do you need this exact part? When I ordered this part they shipped me two. The first is still holding up great. If needed let me know your email address and I can ship you one free of charge

I hope it helped some. Sometimes the speedometer cable is pretty tight on the top end where it reaches the speedometer itself. I had to use a pair of pliers to get it free. It’s a pretty easy job though.

I believe I had it somewhere around b and 3 but I don’t remember for sure. There’s a chart going down to 18g on the welder. I set the voltage slightly lower and played around with the wire speed until I got it where I liked it.

Happy to help!

Thank you!

​@@dougsshed6713 You're welcome my fellow welder.

The purpose of this video is not for professional auto body technicians nor is it to help people become professional repair technicians. This isn’t a training video. This video just demonstrates you can use a cheap sub $200 FCAW and use it plugged into regular household outlet and start welding on body panels at home, outside and in the wind without shielding gas. It can be done and that’s all the data this video intends to provide. 8k miles later everything is still holding up just fine.

​@@dougsshed6713 You sure told him. There are too many trolls on UA-cam. Good video and great tip.

@@robertblackshear8963 I troll from time to time myself haha

That would be correct. Changing the size of the front tire is the only thing that will affect the speedometer reading with this cable style speedometer.

It worked great for me. I’d recommend it on a budget

If I ever get around to it I’ll update this comment lol

she mustve meat 33 not 330. Do not inflate your tire that high.

Youll likely die from popping the tire . (Sounds a little harsh) Most sedans take no more than 40 . Trucks id say no more than 60 especially with stock tires .

max 35!

Open your driver door and there will be a sticker that tells you the exact psi each tire should be! If you can't find the sticker google it! Enter "tire pressure for Toyota Prius" into the search bar and specify the year!

Thanks for the kind words!

I ordered mine from EBay. I know it says it doesn’t fit a shadow 1100 but it fit right on for my VT1100C No problems. Here’s a link www.ebay.com/itm/152654672816 The other option is to find a local Honda motorcycle dealership or service center and buy it from them. I know here in the US you can even call them and have them ship one directly to your house. Hope this helps!

Bought one last summer, still in the Box. One of these days I’ll get to use and learn

What settings did you have it on. I can't get a good setting for a good weld.

@@brycepeters964 I thing it was just below B for voltage and wire speed around 3.5

Glad I could help

You’re welcome!

When I first took the speedometer cable off it was a bit stuck. Some good wiggling and pulling got it loose though. As far as unscrewing there is just the one philips head screw and then you should be able to pull it out (sometimes a little force is needed) hope this helps

It took about 40 uses or so before my pressure gauge went out. Pump still works good as of now (maybe 50 uses)

Yes, it never hurts to check the condition of the other components since you already have access to them

Thanks for the comment! I’m glad you found it useful

No problem! Hope it works as well for you as it did for me

Holding up great. I probably filled this tire 50 times by the time I got around to changing the tire out and it hasn’t missed a beat

Thanks for the input! I did not lubricate part. There seemed to be some sort light of lubricant already inside the assembly when I got the part. I’ve only went about 2 miles (maybe about 3.7km) so far as the weather has been a bit wet lately. If I were to have added a lubricant I would make sure it’s compatible with nylon as some oils/greases can break down plastic parts