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SLO HKB 10 LUC 250W
Finland
Приєднався 7 вер 2018
Welcome to my channel! I upload videos of elecrical stuff, for example lamps and power lines. My English isn't good and I rarely add subtitles to my videos.
Відео
Fresta F-961 125W - Old Finnish Spoon Lantern in Bad Condition
Переглядів 879Місяць тому
Streetlight Made in Finland 1970
Järnkonst 7417 125W - Old Swedish Lantern
Переглядів 594Місяць тому
Järnkonst 7417 125W - Old Swedish Lantern
"Zodiak" LED tube, the worst LED tube I have seen
Переглядів 8462 місяці тому
This is the last one of 12 Zodiak LED tubes I had which is still in use... One of them is already replaced to a clasdic fluorescent tube.
Airam Floralux & Orno Master 340 - 114
Переглядів 9172 місяці тому
Airam Floralux & Orno Master 340 - 114
"SLO 740-2/U" 70's fashion bowl fixtures, bad start-up video
Переглядів 5942 місяці тому
"SLO 740-2/U" 70's fashion bowl fixtures, bad start-up video
Old Finnish Srteetlight PSO HKB4 125W 1967
Переглядів 1,9 тис.3 місяці тому
Old Finnish Srteetlight PSO HKB4 125W 1967
Airam/Sylvania 20 W white T12 tubes
Переглядів 1,5 тис.7 місяців тому
Airam/Sylvania 20 W white T12 tubes
Airam HgSL 160 W self ballasted mercury lamp
Переглядів 2,6 тис.7 місяців тому
Airam HgSL 160 W self ballasted mercury lamp
Testing Philips Master City White CDO-ET 150W
Переглядів 1,5 тис.8 місяців тому
Philips ellipse shaped metal halide lamp.
Kaiser Duka 50 - Sodium fixture for darkrooms
Переглядів 4,6 тис.8 місяців тому
Kaiser Duka 50 - Sodium fixture for darkrooms
Starting 22/20/18 W Circlines without starters
Переглядів 1918 місяців тому
Starting 22/20/18 W Circlines without starters
Self made Resonance - Double Ballast fluorescent circuit
Переглядів 3 тис.8 місяців тому
Self made Resonance - Double Ballast fluorescent circuit
Asea-Skandia PL fluorescent bathroom fixtures
Переглядів 2,4 тис.8 місяців тому
Asea-Skandia PL fluorescent bathroom fixtures
Electronic ballasted 2x 18W T8 fixture
Переглядів 1,9 тис.Рік тому
Electronic ballasted 2x 18W T8 fixture
Two 28W T9 circlines in series with two 18W T8 ballasts
Переглядів 843Рік тому
Two 28W T9 circlines in series with two 18W T8 ballasts
Bad 2x 8W 12VDC Fixture and lamp in EOL
Переглядів 6 тис.Рік тому
Bad 2x 8W 12VDC Fixture and lamp in EOL
PSO HKB 13 LU 400W High Pressure Sodium Streetlight
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Рік тому
PSO HKB 13 LU 400W High Pressure Sodium Streetlight
Unboxing Japanese National Chain Pendant Fluorescent Fixture
Переглядів 848Рік тому
Unboxing Japanese National Chain Pendant Fluorescent Fixture
Airam 40W Rapid-Start tube in EOL & various starters
Переглядів 12 тис.Рік тому
Airam 40W Rapid-Start tube in EOL & various starters
Two 30/28W circline fluorescent lamps in series with an European 65/58W choke
Переглядів 2,4 тис.Рік тому
Two 30/28W circline fluorescent lamps in series with an European 65/58W choke
Special lighting at a Finnish gas station
Переглядів 311Рік тому
Special lighting at a Finnish gas station
I never seen a sodium fixture use a fluorescent starter before!
That EOL lamp is whats breaking your fixture. Replace it
Le starter est en court circuit,les.bilames restent collé.il faut changer le starter.
Cool! One of my favourites.
Which year was this manufactured, if you know?
Beginning of the 80s, I don't remember the exact year.
Can you record startup of this?
Suurin osa on vielä paikallaan. Tuosta kohdan 1:08 Froggystä en muista, vaikka olenkin tuosta ohi mennyt monta kertaa...
I also have a light bulb with the same problem, but the spirals of the lamps are glowing. If the author of the video is interested. What kind of fluorescent lamps exist in our country and not only
Yep, average LED experience. Besides this, the driver chip or a capacitor of the right side is bad, or there is a crack at somewhere of the power rail.
𝗘𝘀𝘁𝗮́ 𝗺𝗲𝘁𝗮𝗱𝗲 𝘁𝘂𝗯𝗼 𝗱𝗲 𝗹𝗲𝗱 💡
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Lâmpada airam floralux 40 Watts 💡
Noisy
What yellow starter
Lovely SLO fixture I have one similar to this.
Suporte de partida solto 😮
Bom vídeo like💡😉
Iluminação pública 125 Watts 💡57 anos
This tube has a gas contamination - hence non-ionisation of the cathodes on preheat and a characteristic very dull red glow. Classic EOL occurs when either or both cathodes have exhausted their emissive coating onto the tube wall, which is a very obvious sight whether the tube is switched on or off. In classic EOL the bare tungsten filament fails to ionise and takes on extra power causing a bright orange glow. There would still be rectification across the tube in this case too, not zero striking. You can attempt to "revive" the lamp on HF this sometimes works.
Seems to be more common in T12 tubes with my limited sample size of three with one having this issue vs around 40 T8 tubes with one also having same kind of fault
It also happens with us as with T12 and T8
Starter tungsram não acesa nada ? 😒
How safe this light on ra4?
Are you sure it can be used for black and white printing? Because when the DUKA 50 is switched on, the light is not red but orange. Many thanks.
With the first switch the situation is clear, it's for the intensity adjustment. Do you know what the second switch is used for, the one that moves in steps? If this sulphur bulb burns out, what can we use instead? Is there an alternative?
looks like originally it has its refractor, also do you use ac or dc current to start this?
Where you got this?
I found it from an old abandoned caravan
@@SLOHKB10 a caravan? What a cool discovery
@@SLOHKB10what yellow starter
One question, does it works with an electronic starter?
I don't believe so, but I haven't tested.
@@SLOHKB10 okay
It depend if the electrodes are ,live, like a standard flourescent lamp or just like those hid mercury replacement sodium lamps with integrated starter
@@hansoverbeeke5442 okay
Cool😊😊😊
Cool😊😊😊😊
Cooll 😊😊😊😊❤❤❤
With the warmup sequence does it have neon or xenon? Starts really fast warmup too😊
thats a weird lamp fixture!
very nice, what’s the wiring diagram?
Never see this. is it low or high pressure sodium? Cool little light though😊😊
Yes, it's some kind of LPS.
I have noticed same on 15w T8 tubes. They can turn on instantly even with starters!
This is due to the very low arc voltage drop of only 55V or so and being exposed to the 230V OCV from the line voltage.
Is the first fixture one of your 100V 50Hz pendant fixtures?
Nice lights! I got myself an Asea-Skandia mercury vapor fixture today!
Tube is so EOL that it doesnt even start on overdrive
I think it might have lost its vacuum.
lost vacumm doesnt last long to shine
I had a 58W Osram tube loose vacumm, and it behaved just like in this video no shine, only glow from the filaments, same clicking pattern with the starter as well.
@@symboly1042maybe the ballast watt is the exact same as your tube???
@@fansloverz yes it was and i think it lasted about 1-2 minutes flickering if i remember correctly
@@symboly1042 wow thats indeed very long, mostly i saw Flourescent tubes lost vacuum just glows for like seconds and not minutes
Preheat is so obsolete in this day and age
it's cool but i would rather sit in a room with electronic ballasts
Not always, if you need to turn on ad off the light frequently i would choose a preheat ballast because it is less harmful to the electrodes and the tube will last longer
@@filippocara0510 still electronic ballasts with filament preheating will provide longer lifetime
@@filippocara0510 that’s why you use a programmed start ballast for F32T8 lamps which were the replacement for F40T12’s
@@djm5k i love programmed start, in fact all my fixtures have it.I didn't get why you mentioned that 2 specific types of tube, preheat and programmed start are the easyer on the electrodes on every diameter and lenght of tubes, not only in the ones that you mentioned.
Do you have the 18W chokes connected in parallel? If so, they should give a reasonable current to these 28W FCL30 circline fluorescent lamps since a single 220V-240V 18W choke can run a 28W 2D lamp, a 26W PLC/PLT lamp or a 30W T8 tube decently well, which all run at essentially half the current of a pair of 28W or 30W FCL30 circline fluorescent lamps running in series with each other as those lamps have an operating current of roughly 300mA. If you are using a pair of 18W T8 chokes in parallel to drive a single 28W or 30W FCL30 circline fluorescent lamp, you would be overdriving the lamp significantly since that setup would push roughly 760 mA through the lamp rather than the correct 600mA through the lamp. Alternatively, you can use a pair of 30W T8 fluorescent tube choke ballasts connected in parallel to run a series pair of these 28W FCL30 circline fluorescent lamps since a single 30W T8 fluorescent tube choke ballast is also specified to run a pair of 15W T8 fluorescent tubes in a series pair as well.
Nice to see you on youtube, Froggy05. I am Worldwidehidcollectorusa from LG by the way. Is the circline lamp a Universal White lamp or a 3500K lamp?
Hi, I know you from LG. The lamp is Philips 33/640 coloured TL-E lamp made in Thailand in 2007.
What an interesting setup for this Japanese circline fluorescent pendant fixture. I have gotten one of these fixtures imported to North America and changed the 100v 60Hz ballasts to 120v 60Hz ballasts for safe operation on domestic North American 120v 60Hz mains. How were you able to obtain your fixture?
I wish we had 30/28W T9 circline ballasts in Europe... This fixture came from a Yahoo auction and I bought it by Buyee's proxy service
@@SLOHKB10 Other things you can try doing to run these FCL30 circline lamps properly is to connect a pair of 15w T8 series choke ballasts in parallel if you want to run one lamp, but if you want to run a pair of lamps in series, you could also use a pair of 30w T8 series choke ballasts in parallel. So far, the 58w T8 series choke ballast slightly overdrives the series pair of lamps. If you want to get spot on current for the lamps, you could also connect a pair of 18w T8 series choke ballasts in parallel to run both FCL30 circline lamps in series.
@@worldwidehidcollectorusa3519 I know, the current with this ballast is about 1A higher than it should be (6.2A) when I metered it.
@@SLOHKB10 Ideally, these Japanese FCL30 circline lamps have an operating current of 610mA just so you know. If you are using series choke ballasts without power factor correction capacitors, the line current is the lamp current. In an ideal case, you want to have a choke ballast that draws around 610mA from the mains.
magnetic ballast !?
yes
This magnetic ballast,not preheat start !?
I am totally not surprised to see those poor quality LED lanterns. This is the result on such action for "considering the environment" but producing more electronic wastes.
Where are the lights located at?
In Kuusankoski (Kouvola), more info: calm.iki.fi/tolpat/kuva/12424
0:15 täytyi tietenkin kuvata myös melko hämärän oloinen Isku -kyltti.
Is any of these LEDs working?
Probably all of them.