Відео

If you are talking about when the life sized gundam changed from the RX78-2 to the Unicorn, that happened in 2017. I think the walking gundam RX78 F00 in Yokohama is closed for good. There is a message on the site saying it closed as of 31st March 2024. I spoke about a few things during this part of the video so I am not sure if this answers your question or not :)

They are tricky to paint if you don't mask them. Another way is to use a Sharpie pen to draw in the lines. Sometimes this is easier than painting them.

I have so many fond memories of the series as well.

Love it :)

Thank you. Most appreciated.

Thank you. Cheers.

Thank you!

No sé. No tengo un alien Neca.

Works better as a paint mixer than it does as a jigsaw :)

Thank you. Yeah I know I'm not going far enough :) I have considered buying the 1/500 kit but it is expensive on the second hand market. I am glad to hear you are getting plenty of ideas for your builds from this series.

Thank you:)

You're right. I didn't even consider Aztec masking. I haven't built any star trek kits so it didn't cross my mind.

Thank you. Comments like this make it all worthwhile :)

Thank you. Most appreciated :)

Thank you :)

Thanks Jim. Yes I had a look at the Final Battle version and you are right - a lot more guns. I will be attempting to light as many guns on this kit as I can. Depending on how it goes, I may end up looking at the Final Battle version as a future build. I think I will end up using the base provided but am going to clean it up by filling all the unnecessary slots and holes. I also have an idea of how I will run the wiring - potentially using magnetic pogo pins. I think this may end up being a lot longer build series compared to usual :)

I use lacquer paints which I find a little easier to swap out. First I clean out any residual paint from the airbrush paint cup using paper towel. I then use lacquer thinner with a cotton bud to clean the paint cup. The I use more lacquer thinner to back flush the airbrush a couple of times. After this I will spray clean thinner through the airbrush until it sprays clear. I then know I can use a different color without any contamination. Although I use predominantly lacquer paints, this technique can also be used for acrylics as well (in my experience this can take a little longer with water based acrylics)

​@duckplayingchicken Thanks so much for the info. I'm just kind of getting back into modelling and I find the painting step the most frustrating. I like the painting, i hate the swapping. Maybe I'm too impatient. I'm mainly using water based acrylics. Might need to start making a change.

I'm also not a fan of swapping paints. Another trick is to plan in advance so you are only spraying a particular color in one session e.g. all green parts in one session, all red bits in another session. I am glad to hear you are getting back into modelling - such a great hobby even if it is frustrating at times :)

同意します。宇宙戦艦ヤマトが大好きです

@@duckplayingchickenさま、私はツヴァルケが好きでこのキットを作ったのですが小さいですよねハセガワがあたりが大きいサイズのツヴァルケを出してくれれば作ってみたいです！

同意します。ツヴァルケの大きいサイズのモデルがあればいいのに

Thank you. It's definitely a kit worth getting.

That it is :)

Thank you.

Thank you

I agree about pressing the bottle on the side for the vortex mixer, however the vortex mixer I have is hit and miss when trying to trigger the switch holding the bottle on the side. I am sure there are other mixers that may work better. I also recognise that these types of mixers are not specifically designed for model paint and are more suited for test tubes.

There’s a sweet spot in that device. Eventually you can find it. Also, remember you can lay the paint on its side and center it on the mixer. Try that and then rotate it along its longest axis 180° and do it again. I think that and other techniques may improve its performance for you. Thanks for this video!

Thanks

Thank you.

Thank you :)

I usually only use a small amount of paint at a time and spray at around 10-12 psi (for lacquer paints). That gives me plenty of control getting the paint on the model as opposed to wasting it. I use cheap lacquer thinner to flush out my airbrush before changing colours. I usually only need to back flush twice and run thinner through it until it runs clear. This is usually a quick process.

​@duckplayingchicken Thanks for that, I'm still getting used to the different types of paints, and I'm mainly using vallejo Air and Mig Ammo. Probably should've gone down the lacquer types though. I think they might be better.

I started with the Vallejo Model Air paints which are good to start with, however even though they were supposed to be airbrush ready, I always thinned mine down. It was strange but some of their range required more thinning than others.@@psychodermix

You're right. A seated version with the hoops would be great.

Looks like a new version has been released with the figure sitting and the hoops.

Worth even more on the second hand market now.

@@duckplayingchicken indeed!

Thank you. Most appreciated.

建設も頑張ってください

Thank you. I am looking forward to tackling more in the series.

Thanks. Yep. Old but exceedingly cool is a great description.

Thank you :)

Thank you :)

Thank you! Cheers!

Definitely inspired the design of C3P0.

Thanks. Air is supposed to come out of the holes around the nozzle. If the trigger is not changing the air flow, it is probably an issue with the valve which is located in the handle. It doesn't sound like a packing seal issue to me. You can unscrew the air valve and check to make sure no paint or grime has built up in it to prevent it from working. Apart from that, I am unsure of any other source of the problem.

@@duckplayingchicken thank you! I should have been a little more descriptive. The air was coming out of the front air holes when I wasn’t pulling the trigger. While it was sitting on the a/b holder. I contacted Grex and representative got back to me quickly and he gave me a short list of things to check. One of them was the shift pin. And it was the culprit! There didn’t appear to be any paint in or around the shaft that the shift pin slides through, but the lubricant that they use from the factory had become all gunky and thick. Maybe paint had infiltrated the area? Anyway a god cleaning and the A/B is working perfectly again! Thanks for your suggestion, you were bang on!

I am glad to hear you got it sorted out :)

@@medic53067 In addition, the rubber seals on the shift pin need to be changed occasionally.

@@homunculous007 I checked them while it was stripped down and they fit tightly on shift pin, and are sealing inside the shaft that it travels in. The a/b is about a year old, so if I use the a/b about 10 hours per month, how long should they last? A couple years?

I agree the box art is awesome. All the UC Hardgraph kits have great box illustrations.

Thank you :)

Thanks. Most appreciated.

Thank you. A lot of the vehicles from the earlier series of Gundam are awesome. I must admit this is one of my favourites too.

I agree it is a great sci fi ship design. 40" Phoenix sounds great - scratch built even better.

Thank you :)

Yes I thought about small LCD screens but have decided against it for this build. I have a bit of experience with Arduino but not hooking them up to a screen. Definitely something I will have to look into.

@@duckplayingchicken There are some handy libraries for it, so although it’s not trivial, it’s not too difficult.

Thanks. Even built stock I think they are great kits.

I am unsure. It is a shame they didn't at least try to give it a specific scale.

That's how they were sold in Australia as well. The kit I had as a kid was labelled as Robotech from Revell.

She's about 6.5 inches or 16.5cm tall

I got the model and lighting kit at Hobby Link Japan but I'm not sure if they have any left in stock.

Thanks. I am sure there are many different versions of these on the market. All the better choice fo us modellers :)