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Hello Brian, The heat shrink was just to cover the soldered joint and bare wire. Yes you’re correct, I run the cars counter clockwise however, I use the Trackmate driver stations that have the directional switch to run either way. I did go with the harder type 1 PVC material. I have a friend that has a Sintra track and we had more success using a screen install tool for the lock wire and rails rather than the Viper tool. The Sintra makes a nice track but it is not as forgiving as the type 1 pvc when installing the rails. Be careful and take it slow, it’s easy to crease or fold over the edge of the groove. He didn’t solder his power taps either, they’re just press fit. Have fun and enjoy the build. Send me a pic when you get it finished. Bob

I'm worried about the oxidation build up over time effecting the press fit connection. I'm going to at least try soldering them in. Thanks for responding.@@bobk8539

Hello Jeff, It needs two connections per lane, one positive (drivers side) and one negative. This is one of 72 power tap connections on my track. Yes I didn’t video the other side but they were all done this way. This track kit (Viper) comes with power tap holes on each end of the track pieces. That extra choice makes it easy to choose and layout the power to the track. You sure could connect track sections in this manner, a jumper wire essentially.

I’m trying to simply learn how to improve performance by getting power to the area halfway around my track circuit. I’m using 4 Tripacks ( 1 per lane of course) and just 2-wire controllers (no brakes) on my AFX/Racemasters track. Nothing fancy but I can’t find any easy diagrams on how to get power to other sections. It’s not clear to me if these are “taps” or “jumpers” lol. I just saw a video where he just used the (-) wire from his power source and connected it to the corresponding rail of the lane across the track circuit. Also have seen some wire both (+) and (-) from rails of track section next to “main terminal” track receiving power and connecting to corresponding rails of lane across the track circuit (even several “taps” every so many connections of track). Help? Appreciate your efforts here on the videos for sure.

@@docorocsrt hey that’s great, AFX track! I agree, learning how to wire it all up is most of the battle if you don’t have someone there that’s done it before. On my track they’re all power taps. All are wired from the power tap, back to a distribution block, then the drivers stations, then the timing system relay, and finally the power supply. I used the AccuTech advanced track wiring diagram as a guide. l can email it to you if needed. It has direction switches on it but you can just bypass that obviously. Just follow the + and - connections. With your track I would run power taps rather than jumpers. Use a power distribution block coming off your driver stations and distribute power (+and-) to each lane tap you want. A guy in my club is doing that now to his AFX track and I believe he’s going with 7 power taps. Let me know how else I can help

@The Slot Spot, I did not run the glue down the entire rail. I glued all the ends a few inches in, then spot glued every couple feet or so. It seems to be working well so far. When I tried my NEO cars it did pull up the rail slightly in one spot. I plan to add more glue in a few spots and I should be good to go. I also changed glue tips from the one in this video to the Zap Flexi-Tips. Much better control of the glue.

@@bobk8539 cool thanks. I don’t have any neo cars mostly just stock tycos and some older stuff.

@MT_MTB Good question! Yes I think so, it allowed me to buy a bigger track for the money. Installing the rails was more work than I anticipated however, and went a little slow in the beginning. The more practice, the better I got at it for sure. This is a 60’ track with eight rails to lay, that’s 480 feet! On the other hand, if you want your track up and running sooner, you might want them to install it. I would also recommend the type 1 PVC track (like in this video) if you do the install yourself. Very sturdy material. Good luck, let me know which way you go!

Lane spacing on this track (Viper) slot to slot is 1.5”. Total width is 8”. AFX track is 1” 5/16” and just under 6” wide. If you’re really concerned about extra space to race, look into MaxTrax, they’re even wider. Thanks for watching, send some pics of your track when you get it going.

Hey Mike, No I don’t. I planned to do an entire build video but haven’t, maybe on my next track. I’m currently working on installing and soldering the power taps, I’ll try and upload a video of that. Thanks for your interest!

The track material is PVC Type 1

Viper scale racing viperscaleracing.com/product/srs-track-rail-20-length/

@@bobk8539 Box stitching wire?

@@gattismetal I’m not familiar with box stitching wire. The wire i used is from viper scale racing, I’ll attach a link. viperscaleracing.com/product/srs-track-rail-20-length/

Viper Scale Racing, it is one of their track kits viperscaleracing.com/product/4x14-scorpion-plus-4-in-1-layout/