Відео

It's just above the pulley wheel. Actually if you click on this video of mine ua-cam.com/video/fqXkIFWVn7g/v-deo.html and go to the 2:35 mark you'll see it.

Not sure. I think it depends on the exact model year. What year is your GLI?

@@chilledspeed 2017

Ok so the part number for my o2 sensor is 1K0998262T. Based on what I'm seeing, it's not compatible with your car.

Could you jack the control arm up to compress the spring and then remove the top center nut then lower the jack? Or would this stop you ever getting the strut out of the hub? You could cut the spring after you released the jack then though I suppose.

Unfortunately I went through this on the passenger side. I have some footage of it, but I decided not to include it in the final video because it was already going to be a long video and there was plenty to show on the driver side anyway. (Come to think of it, maybe I’ll cut that footage up into a community post and show it there) When I was doing the passenger side, two out of the three bolts starting spinning as soon as I started trying to remove them. Didn’t unthread at all. So there was no chance of getting a cutting wheel under the head of the bolts. The coil spring was also still intact on that side and that made getting any sort of pliers or vise grips up there to try to hold the bottom “nut” that the bolt was threaded into virtually impossible. Long story short, I ended up using a die grinder with a grinding attachment and I just sat there and ground down the heads of the bolts until there was no head left. It sucked, it took a few hours. But ultimately it worked.

@@chilledspeed thanks for the reply and well done getting the job done. That final resort is what I want to avoid, I'm on battery powered rotary so with charges would take a long time to grind the heads down. Could you jack the control arm up to compress the spring and then remove the top center nut then lower the jack? Or would this stop you ever getting the strut out of the hub? You could cut the spring after you released the jack then though I suppose.

Just thinking about it right here right now, jacking up on the control arm wouldn't help if the three strut tower bolts start spinning right away. However, if they do start to unthread a little and then start spinning, using the jack could be another way to lift up the heads of the bolts to get a cutting wheel under there. Now if you're asking this because you want to get the coil spring and strut out of the way so you can attack the spinning bolts unobstructed, I could see that working in theory, but then I also agree that it would make separating the strut from the hub a lot harder because at that point the strut/hub assembly will be flopping around and it'll be really hard to brace it while you hammer the hub off. You would also have to be 100% sure that your jack is securely under the control arm.

@@chilledspeed thanks so much for the feedback, I'm going to get the strut out at the bottom, try the top bolts, if they spin I'm going to put the strut back in at the bottom half way, nip it up and then jack the lower arm/hub up to take the weight of the spring, take the top nut off and then lower the jack and then just cut the spring when it's flapping about, then put the strut nut back on to hold it up then get it out at the bottom again and I can get access to the 3 top nuts from underneath.

It's nice, pretty much exactly what I was looking for. My GTI is my daily driver, and the ride is just firm enough to handle some spirited driving without being uncomfortable or too "jolting" for daily driving. I also plan on replacing sway bars and couple other little things as well to round it out and make it even better.

When you say glue, are you referring to the sealant I used on the brass fittings?

Hm interesting idea. Was there any particular tool that you were curious about?

@@chilledspeed start with ratchet , socket set and others for fix a car 😆

Thank you! and damnit, you're not the first person to comment about the smoke alarms haha. the batteries are changed now though so no more chirp sounds will be in my videos.

@@chilledspeed haha! I thought I was going mad, I even paused the video to go check that it wasn't mine cherping 😄 Still awaiting the call from VW to tell me how much this is going to cost me.

Honestly if your coil springs are just old and worn out, putting a fresh set of OEM springs would probably raise the height of the car just by the nature of them being brand new (it wouldn't raise a lot, but a little). If you wanted to go beyond that, I know that they make lift kits for some VWs that are essentially metal spacers that attach to the existing suspension, but I personally have never messed around with those at all so I can't speak to the quality or functionality of them. Quick story: i actually had a used Mark III GTI a while back (with the VR6 engine). I remember changing the springs once on that car with some new OEM springs, and it honestly almost looked like I put a lift kit on it ha. The distance between the fenders and the tires ended up being more than I thought it was going to be. There was a solid 4 inches of space. I thought there would be maybe 3 inches at the most. It probably won't be quite that drastic for you if you did springs, but it could still be all you need.

They started to have the button in 2011. Mine is a 2012. The only mk6 GTIs that don't have the button are the 2010s

yeah it's a called a strut nut socket

It's very satisfying ha. It was long overdue too

Happy that it helped!

I went with Powerstop. Part #S6384. My mk6 has the 272mm Bosch rear brake calipers (vs the 282mm).

Nice! Yeah it's a fun car. Especially for performance mods

Happy it helped!

Yeah, I'll admit the issue that caused the P2187 code on mine is probably different than most other people because it had to do with the aftermarket air intake that I have. But before I discovered that leak in the intake coupler, one thing that I was actually pretty convinced was the cause of it was the mass airflow sensor being either dirty or faulty. That's a possibility you could investigate.

Haha yup. I actually did finally do that recently so that annoying sound won't be in my videos anymore.

For just the bulbs you definitely don't have to remove the bumper. I think the bumper has to come off if you're removing the entire headlight assembly though. I know some people say that, to replace the driver side headlight bulb, you have to jack the car up, remove the fender cowlings and go at it from underneath, but I've done it without going through that (granted I did have to contort my hand pretty severely to get it). Also, removing the top of the fuse box gives you a little extra room for your hand.

(sorry if you got a notification that I disliked your comment, I clicked the dislike totally by accident. then I unclicked it right away and clicked the like button. oops)

I used the one made by Febi Bilstein. 06J903133A

It's the one that came with the bleeder. Yours doesn't fit?

nope just tries to cross thread and leaks

Hm that's odd. I wonder if anyone else has had this problem. Is your car a mk6 GTI like mine? (I know the bleeder should be universal, but I'm curious).

@@chilledspeed Mines a mk5 but with the TSI I always have trouble finding parts as some are mk5 some are mk6.

Too true. I've never had a sunroof leaking problem like this before. The next thing I'm probably going to have to do is pull up all the carpet to let it fully dry out so mold doesn't start to grow.

Thank you! I'll also be posting a video of me bleeding the whole system soon (not my next video but probably the one after).

Glad to help! Same here. I think every single video I watched too said that there was no way around removing the bumper to get that fog light out and I thought to myself "no way am I doing that" ha.

I knew I should have just replaced those things when I had everything disassembled ha. At least I don't have to re-disassemble everything to switch them out.

@@chilledspeed that is true, those hoses are pretty simple to replace. Pay attention to the brake fluid if that is still good, you are still bussy.... Better save that sorry! Good luck 👍

I assume you mean the 2 guide pins (or slide pins, as some people call them). I don't believe you're correct on that. Are you sure?

@@chilledspeed 2 pivot pins need lubricant . He doesn't know anything

I would agree with you if those sway bar links had grease fittings, but they don't. They're sealed from the factory.

I got a new set of calipers but I haven't had a chance to install them yet. Soon though!

From the back, there is a subframe crossmember that sits just passed the gas tank. I slid my floor jack in at an angle toward the passenger side (to clear exhaust pipes) and I raised the rear end from there. My jack is just long enough to reach it. Then I also put jack stands under the jacking points on the sides.

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It can be....what?

yeah I remember that little 5mm bolt...it was a pain ha. Glad you got yours done!

wow i didnt even know that. that is dumb