Відео

Enjoy watching, very good atmosphere.

Good to see you in the bees. I hope yours fair better than my last two tiny swarms. You gave them some good resources so that's a good start.

Hiya Keith, hey you are looking spry good to see ya buddy. 🤣Stupid bees tell them it's not the time of year for that.😂Blessed Days Keith...

let add my 2 cents for an effective remedy for any dimensional difference in box sizes. every other year there are countless political signs dotting the roadside and most never get picked up. I use these signs to place on top of a larger box then place a smaller box on top of the sign. it works perfectly and lasts about 2 year's before becoming dry rotted. in addition to the signs comes the metal legs to push down in the dirt - I save these and sell them for .50 cents to other political people for their signs the next go round. this is another small way to reinvest into your apriary.

I had an open-air colony build on the bottom of a swarm trap like that late last year. Mine was much smaller than yours. I did a very similar thing using another swarm trap. They made it thru winter but starved out in early spring. Cutting those out is going to be difficult because they will have built out onto those wood pieces in a week or so. As far as getting them into a regular box , I'd shake or brush as many as possible straight into that blue box. I'd then move over 20 feet and do the cutting and rubber banding. Hopefully you can find and protect the queen during that process. Great video. Thanks for sharing..

Bubba, you sho don't want to bump into that there!!! 🐜

Darn. Swarm trap needed to be bigger.

Morning Keith God will dry ya out, Prayers buddy. I don't adhere to that rule moving bees rule. If you aren't to hot, change the sun facing and pack branches in the door so they have to dig their was out, they will reorient mostly. You will still get some that fly back but more stick then you would think.

That's sucks Keith, good moving them I think. Hope. Things get better soon

Stay safe and dry, Keith.

Yes move them to safe ground, yall be safe as well

Wow.. now that was a predicament.. i like the way you improvised that setup.. i never would've thunk of that. And what a great bunch of bee's. Definitely looking forward to the follow-up on this one.

I've had that before. Thanks!

They ain’t no fun up them britches, good job. Thanks for sharing

Good afternoon Keith, good to see ya buddy... WoW I didn't see your short, that is a lot of bee. I think ya need a bigger box. Praise God He makes us Strong. They are going to make such a mess out of all that crazy space, You are going to be King of Wonky Comb.😂Thanks much for sharing Keith, Blessed Days...

For some reason I have an urge to just plummet my hand in there

Very cool! Thanks for sharing Keith!

Nice knife skills

Are you dumb

Very nice, Keith!

❤

I had some do this I had to start putting the lure on top of the frames. Are you using lang frames or Laynes type?

Better to see that than rats!

They'll spook ur mule... 😁 Thankfully they keep them 4 legged critters at bay for you.

I have never been a fan of this idea of finding eggs and thinking that means they are ok. It’s something that the master beekeepers teach in their logic “seeing eggs means the queen was there at least 3 days ago” many beekeepers follow this. I will only check for eggs if I’m checking for a new queen. Then I will check back a couple weeks later and see if it’s worker brood or not. The most important thing to make sure you have a queen that is laying workers. With a production hive or established colony I will flip the box and look for capped worker brood. If I see a solid worker brood pattern and no swarm cells, then I can close the colony up assuming they are ok until my next inspection. They might not actually be queen right at the second, meaning they are replacing the queen for some reason. Going through the combs is of no benefit to me unless I’m going to be re queening them or keeping really good records. Tracking individual queens for some reason. Because they will simply replace her. If i don’t see any capped worker brood then I would take the combs out and start investigating looking for queen or eggs. Any time I only see eggs I would want to check back 10-14 days after for capped worker brood. Eggs can come from laying workers, drone laying queens and good queens. So unless the beekeeper is good at reading comb’s, simply seeing eggs is not good reason to think the colony is ok. Seeing solid capped worker brood can tell you the overall health of the colony and you know that you have a couple more weeks before the risk of laying workers, even if they were queenless and she failed to return. You find that out next inspection. Now I’m talking about the regular inspection which you want to be quick. not your full inspection which you check mite level and do any comb replacement or other detail things like that. You can try my advice on this one or not. I understand I’m saying to do the opposite of what the books say. But I haven’t had a production colony turn laying workers. If I had a drone laying queen I find it ASAP. If the colony has brood disease I will see it. it takes minutes each colony. I can see eggs very well I have great eyesight and I’m good at finding queens. So my opinion is not from someone who struggles in this area. I can give advice on how to fix problems. You need to know if it’s a queen or laying workers to properly fix. They both take time and resources. That is why it makes sense to just say they are drone layer hive and not even spend time at all. Often times if it’s left unattended the combs will be effected and the brood will be sick. They become drone sized cells and bees would need to fix them. The colony is stressed out and they don’t always feed them drones correctly or they get sick for some reason. It will be snotty brood and whatever drones do live can raise more mites. If mites were bad before they are terrible then. Putting crap sick drone comb won’t help another colony especially a smaller one. Strong healthy colonies will clean it up and take out the drones and shouldn’t crash from wherever mites or sickness but it still depends on other factors. Like flow or not and how sick they really are. They are sick because they’re dying and often they have other stress related illnesses including the mite factor.

You did what I would have done. Good job.

~aka~Sharon I have had a hive turn drone layer, too. It was fault for not checking my hives more often. Thanks for sharing!👍💛🐝💛

what city is this?

I've found that if you take a swarm at daylight or you open it too close to the trap location, the foragers will return and they will defend the new box you put up - keeping another colony from moving in. A couple of times I was fooled into thinking I caught another swarm only to find out that it was just stragglers from the old one. They will even build a small amount of comb before they die out.

Another😁

😂I Love it Keith.😁 Keep up the great work buddy,God's got bees for ya.

Got yourself a good strong box of bees. Aint nothing better than a gentle stock as well.

We'd say you got a swarm in that there box!

I'd not leave that comb and space above for more than a day or so. You'll have a mess on your hands and the bees will waste a lot of effort.

Residents, got a couple a girls fanning the pheromones at the entrance. The queen is in da house! Lol Awesome!

👋Hi Keith.😁

It would be so much better if the bees read the books.😂

Keith, you just want the Ring. Grats buddy.

I have tried trapping honey bees for two years have used lemon grass oil-- swarm commander and swarm rustler. A little over two weeks ago caught my first feral swarm ever in a trap. It was caught on swarm rustler, I looked 2 or three days ago and they are still in the trap, so they are established will transfer in the next week. That trap had stayed up sense 3-1-23. I refreshed the swarm rustler about 3 weeks ago, it does work.

Do whatcha gotta do capt'n, it'll work itself out. 👍

Hey Keith! I’m in the same boat

I feel for you. I'm having to use deeps for supers. Too heavy.