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I seen one guy putting lube on the back of his rod and main bearings. I said we'll there's a spent bearing waiting to happen.

I am doing my first swap. Ls3/6L80E in a 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor. It's a project with my grandkids. Not my first engine tho lol.

Brand Racing Engines pins the cam bearings on LS engines. I have seen where they have spun on aluminum blocks.

Thats a crusty unit.

I have a 748/748 lift, 280/288@.050, 110 lobe sep Solid roller for one of my big blocks. Id call that a 3/4 race cam.

But I remember the old "3/4" race cams. Alot of duration without much lift. Usually wrong lobe separation too. Believe Clay Smith started the whole 3/4 race cam jargon. Long time ago. I prefer actual specs myself tho. Truck Norris cams and shit like that is pretty simple minded terminology.

In my world, a 3/4 race cam is a cam with .750 lift.

I'm building my 67 400 more for drag racing tho. Going with 4.150x4.00 for 433 cubes. Using OTC forged SD 455 connecting rods from back in 74. 428 crank. Dropping it in a 63 SD 421 Catalina, original "405"hp SD421 was blown up in 1970. It was a drag car from day one. I'm using the old gold anodized Moroso valvecovers on mine. Using Crane roller rockers and a big Crane solid roller cam. +.250 long Ferrea valves. Going with an old Torker & 850 DP on the 433ci. Love them old Pontiacs. Gonna paint mine light powder blue so it looks more like it came in a 63. Wish I had an old Doug Nash 2-4 barrel intake & a pair of 660s for it. Always liked the silver/blue Pontiac paint. Also building another 400 its going to be that color. It's a 71 block. Getting an all aftermarket rotating assembly. Also gonna be about 495 cubes, big solid roller, but look kinda stock. Going with a Super Victor intake & 1050 Dominator on that one. So its gonna look more "Superstock", except no Q-jet. Using early 80s Moroso chrome valvecovers on it. Like to run low 10s, high 9s with it in a G-body Gran Prix.

I have that same engine. Damn good unit. EO IC how I adjust them too. Been working for me 40+yrs also. Keep it simple.

Thanks for sharing thatThanks for sharing pat

I bought a TA15 at an auction recently, I was wondering whether to use it as intended or as a table for one of my Kwik way LBM’s.

I used to use one of those flat tops, it aint easy.

Awsome. The yesterday skills are impressive.

Great video Pat 👍

Awesome

Can you show us what is required to install Mark V heads on a Gen IV block? Cooling.....

A very thorough explanation. Looking forward to the second part of the video. Thanks

The green sunnen hone, is that a industrial model ?

On that machine once you get the chuck set all you need to do it push the red knob over to open the chuck, out a new valve in and release and its ready to run. no need to turn the chuck by hand every time.

Great video Pat

Nice job Pat

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ای جانم ای جان

That honing cabinet looks like a factory piece. What you buy someone else made.

How does taking such a small amount off the top of the pistons make any difference to the engine?

Made a custom piston top work for a Porche 911 some 40 years ago. Double radius dome. So a CNC lathe. Main problem was making the fixture to get height above the wrist pin. Bottom of piston varies too much. All six better than one thou.

I have a 680 and a 2001. Have been told on the 680 when rails get wear on them you can turn them over to a new surface.

I made up a fixture to use it with my lathe to machine down the pin height of the piston.

Got the volume cranked to 11, can't hear what you're saying!! Had to put headphones on. :) Thanks for sharing, don't see too many people working with 781's anymore. 781's are all I run unless I want more than 700hp, then I'll use 088's instead.

Used one of these for quite a few years in busy remanufacturing shops. Probably done 2000 blocks on one of these models. Well built and reliable machines.👍

I had some 781s heads once I wish I kept them, now I use Merlin. thanks for sharing your wisdom!!

With experience, you do what works for you. You will end up usually with the same result. Friend ordered set of aluminum heads for a flat tapet cam. Wiped out a # of lobes. Had me check them, one head was set up for a roller cam. Same part# for both heads.

Had a lower boot made for my Berco 950, 200.00$.

Those are nice heads, 049 too

What brand are those expandable pilots ?

Great informative video... thanks!

Yes i hear that the people over in China basically have a lot of cancer basically industrial villages

Yeah you're right and luckily I found a few on eBay that were New Old Stock from k line I tried to purchase some recently in they miserable I won't mention the supplier sent them back

Awesome job brother. I do the same thing, .502 through the stock guide. I have the tooling for 3/8 liners...but honestly it's faster to core drill them and put a full guide in. did I mention I hate doing BBC heads lol. have a good one man!

That is interesting about what it costs to buy new tools vs having new ones resharpened. Where do the new ones come from? I hate made in China, and in some situations I'll pay extra just to get something rebuilt, rather than buy new from the CCP reds and their cancer villages. Here is one such situation where I do that. On many cars, the price between new brake rotors is not significantly more than buying new mid grade Chinese rotors. Sometimes it costs even less. On many American and Japanese cars, good luck getting brake discs that aren't made in China. However, if my brake rotors have enough material and I have enough time, I'll pay to have them resurfaced anyway. I just hate the CCP and their ways that much. About 3 years ago, I did such a DIY brake job to my mother's 2011 Honda CRV. My mother does not need to know this motivation or the cost, as she does not react nicely to it. Well, she got that auto parts at cost and I didn't ask for anything in labor as a favor, so she can't say too many bad things. At least it isn't hard to buy brake pads not made in China. This is also why I'd rather rebuild these cylinder heads, rather than buy a new Chinesium iron casting. I hate buying new stuff from GM and Chrysler and Fiat, but I hate buying new pieces of Chinesium even more. Sometimes even when you do your best, a valve job will end too deep anyway. I sometimes encounter people with very old heads pressing in both new hard exhaust seats and new hard intake seats. I often call those situations "A rebuild of a rebuild of a rebuild" to explain it to car guys and non car guys. To cars guys, I sometimes call it "A CV axle from the 1980s." When some heads take a lot to rebuild, I like when people find a better core for rebuilding. They avoid new pieces of Chinesium, and they avoid the added cost of more involved rebuilds. I think I could understand why those 781 heads are different. Sometimes even OEM auto parts are revised when they are sold as replacements. I have encountered replacement parts from dealerships. Sometimes they are built differently if the car shipped with a flawed part design. It is why when you buy a car, it is best not to buy one the year it arrives.

Standard iron or hardened guides?

When you do hardened EX seats on cast iron GM heads what is the MAX OD insert you do? Have you hit water jacket when cutting the counter bore? Nice vids I appreciate them.

Nice job, i have not seen adding weight to crank like that, but the end product looks good, thanks for showing.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge Pat 😊

Long sleeves don't belong in a machine shop

Do you recall what your piston ring gaps were for the first and second piston rings

i will party with you..sounds bad ass!

another fine job pat! you make it look to easy!

Have you ever drilled a BBC (6223) crank for a larger snout bolt? Ford BBF size.

The first race engine I build, I used P bearings, it was a 305 chevy camaro SCCA Americain sedan class, It lost oil pressure the driver pulled it off track and saved the engine, the babbit failed, migrated and sperated from the copper, thats when I discovered racing bearings.