Відео

because of differences in the making of a booster that is not the original one. i used an aftermarket rebuilt unit...i had to add a slightly stronger return spring to the pedal. the pedal now comes all the way back yup every time ....and engages the brake switch properly ...a search on amazon with this part number will being up the spring i used..its a bit stiffer than the original but i works great B07KMRG2KF

Thank you very much..its been a shit ton of work...i ride it with all the nannys off and its the rowdiest bitch ive ever thrown a leg over..but i love and respect it..power wheelies at 120 are scary shit lol

Im glad to hear it..and glad it helped you

yes sir it did, we get hot days in texas, and i have not had a problem since, but it was not just this that fixed it, this was about 90 percent fix id say. for good measure and help lower the heat getting to the tank and to me i also added 2. heat reflective material to the bottom of the tank, 3.added heat reflective shield on top of the rear cylinder head 4. header wrap both front and rear heads all the way to the mufflers. 5. i completely bypassed the vapor canister. was causing stalling and pressure build up in the tank. (once bypassed this problem went away) if you do this mod the the bubbling will go away, even on the hottest days i might get a bubble or two but it has to be really really hot. if its not vapor locking like mine was you might consider just bypassing the charcoal/vapor canister only theres a spring loaded check valve in there that allows the pressure to build up until the pressure in the tank is enough to overcome the spring, but the pressure in the tank is never fully released because of the spring. no matter how hot it gets i can open my filler lid and theres no pressure in the tank, this aint necessary to stop the bubbling, i got tired of the stalling and getting sprayed with fuel everytime i opened the fukin lid, now with the bypass, the vent hose is open to atmosphere so pressure never builds but you will have the smell of gas vapors in your garage when get back. but all of the above is what it took to stop the aggravating shit that i was dealing with. another bad thing with the canister is that if the bike fell over fuel gets in the vent line, fills the charcoal canister and then gets pushed out, on the the v4 the vent to the canister woiuld push the fuel out directly onto the blazing hot header, and you guessed it FIRE. so i plumbed it away from the header

@@mr1hander I had the canister removed , thermal shield on the bottom of the tank, checked if vent lines where ok, and still pressure in the tank and bubbling fuel… today I had a new gas pump installed, problem solved

Then it was the fittings leaking ..good to hear you got it fixed

@@mr1hander went to a trackday today (very hot wheather) and no gases no bubbles NOTHING. Went back home riding (20 min) , put some gas before getting home , and it started doing it again. 😓

@wayakpsy5567 sounds like the fittings are leaking on the pump housing like mine..it's only a matter of time and heat before the plastic on the pump housing starts to expand..

hey patrick.. only way without complete disassembly to find the broken pieces is to add some spacers the way ii did in this video, its really rough to tell you anything, these sunroofs have alot of moving parts you know, my sunroof has recently completey crapped out and broke so it is permanently closed, i have ot had the time time to remove the entire thing and replace parts.

@@mr1hander I just want mine closed that's all I'm gone emergency close it I guess

Mine doing the same thing yours was. Hitting the piece and stopping it from closing all the way.... Where did you get the white thing from and did you put them on the both sides

i added thermal protection to the entire bottom of the tank to prevent that . the problem was not boiling fuel, it was the leaking housing seen here allowing fuel and escape path returning from the injectors, that escape path allows the fuel to vaporize , vaporlocking my entire fuel system, after i added the orings to fix this leaky housing, it has never vaporlocked or failed to start since. and i have never heard that sound of boiling fuelm, which was not actually boiling fuel, it was pressureized vapor coming from the fuel feed lines, which found the point of least resistnce which was the housing leak, which in turn blew bubbles into the fuel, soundig like a boil, but the in tank camera shows its not a boil but a bubbling.

Still have it but its been a while since I was trying to regear for 5 blade head and get more rpm out of the turbine with a custom ecu.. its been years since it flew

@@mr1handeroh! Its a shame! Its one of the few i saw flying haha. Do you have some details about the tail fan? Im even ready to buy yours if needed😂

@@Dewx30LOL i couldnt part with it, i actually won that fuselage and turbine mechanics at my first scalemasters competition with the EC135 entry i built ... so the 520 has a special place in my heart, the only reason i have not worked on is just cuz well my kids grew up and found other hobbies that i try to share to spend time with them, i have other hobbies as well and theres only so much money to go around LOL.. the main thing stopping me from getting it flying again is my transmitter finally just got too old ..and im in the market for a Jeti DS24 so 2k for that.. then i have to make the mouthpiece and rudder knob setup that i use to fly with..so its a pretty involved ordea; cuz i have to design and cnc all the parts myself,, right now im in the middle of buildinh a stroker 416 for the corvette.. so you know ...the money ..... but what info are looking for if i can help i will.. the tail fan is the vario carbon unit driven by the mechanics by shaft drive.. thats the difficulty in getting it to fly, it requires great deal of power but so does the main rotor so it a precarious balance ...thats why i was trying to get a new ecu to get more rpm and power out of the turbine, which is no problem for the turbine but then the gears start to become the weak point. so you see the dilemma, my buddy taylor at taylormade helicopters built one and did an electric edf for the tail fan that has flown very successfully but its al electric not turbine.. so i give him shit about that LOL...but i will say that im getting the urge to get flying again. i still have an unbuilt as350 3 meter disc setup i have yet to build.. and im getting the urge.. i just need to drop that 2k for a transmitter thats the hard part for me LOL. what in specific would you like to know my friend

what would you like to know @@Dewx30

⁠@@mr1handerHey Rick! Sorry i was into a hard weeks and didnt check you replied so fast! Honestly im just looking for some number of the prop you’re using or so! My father built a mechanism himself made of belts. It works LIKE A CHARM but even pushin rpms up to 32k air at the tail is not enough. Also we’re about to struggle with power, but thats the ne t step. We’re already thinking on an EDF but thats not what we definitely want to haha

yea i kinda figured that..

i kinda thought the same..i thought about machining a groove on the inside of the bearing but cutting into these is just ill advised, king bearings is looking at a nov dec time frame for the bearings i wanted with the center groove on the inside for the cam bearings..but ls engines have been running these old design bearings for a long time as well as small blocks so im sure itll be fine.. i just wanted a better hydrodynamic wedge because of the cam and dual spring setup im using.. which will put more pressure on the cam bearings through the pushrods

thankx

which rod

Same here. Found the hole the rod is in is to loose. If you hold it tight to the red rail it will come out. I had to add a spring to pug it over tight so it would cam out

you probably have the round nut on top of the plate too tight. do it up tight, then break it back but leave right at the point you break it loose (but its still snug). Then just make sure every so often it does not come really loose. Also grease up the rod where it contacts and the bottom of plate

Set the timing right and put a little grease on the frame slope where it contacts the plastic lever on the index rod. Works every time ! Do not use case lube as it wont last but a few cycles, You all heard of machine grease, haven't you ?

Just had my first primer explode because of this. The priming system seems to be the only issue I have with my load master.

@@rambocambo75 I've had two explode on me so far. Plus I've had probably 3 to 5 percent rate of primers getting seated sideways. Would be nice if Lee could figure out the issue.

solution is to look for Lee carrier alignment. If its out of alignment it won't index correctly.

nice brother.. we gotta keep these old gems running..mines at 248k miles and still running strong except for a check engine light that im pretty is the fuel tank purge valve.. keep at it.

they are jgy370 18rpm www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0833PHKJH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 the upper and lower wheels are both 40mm and i ended up with different width wheels for 223 and a narrower one for 300 AC cases since they are shorter the flame gets too close to the wheel hince the narrower version

i will say your absolutely right there bud.. i assumed it was like every other lee reloadr i have and it took me a bit longer to figure it out.. i should have looked at the directions..just cuz i have 4 other doesnt mean i know the loadmaster....i found the nut at the bottom after i posted the video...either way...lesson learned

yes they can be

i used ASA because it was the highest temp stuff i had, it is 95 percent infill but its not strong enough, i would use the highest temp stuff you can find, abs is pretty high , i had to make sure the flame was angled away from the wheels and not have the radiant heat being bounced toward the wheels cuz they would deform, i changed the thickness of wheels to thinner based on the shortest cases i would be annealling which is 300 AAC , but i 3d printed only as preliminary, the final pieces are going to be made of delrin or something like that, but as long as i angle the torch head properly and used as small a flame as i could the ASA stood up well and i was able to anneal 300 to 350 cases at a time non stop, stopping only long enough to reload the hopper

your drain might be clogged or the evaporator box has a crack in it, but no liquid should leave that box into the cabin floor

Yours sounds like what most of them have trouble with. Debris build up in the guide rails. A clean towel and some spray silicone or dry lube would have solved this issue oh 5 years ago sorry mate 😂