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Malibu Homes
Приєднався 6 січ 2020
Might Mule Gate Opener Troubleshoot
If you have a Mighty Mule gate opener, there are mainly three components that can fail. 1. main board, 2. revolution counter board, 3. motor.
I tested all three components, and it turns out that I need to reset the mater learning for arm extension. Anyway, I learned a lot after I took all the components apart.
To test the main board (for single gate system, R4211/R5211 Jump Testing):
- 1. Turn power switch off. Remove all wires from operator arm terminal connector (color coded terminal)
- 2. Turn power on. VERIFY you get 1 beep error, turn power off
- 3. Using a jumper wire, connect GREEN (1st) to ORANGE (4th) terminals by screwing in both ends. Turn on power, VERIFY no error
- 4. Use Transmitter/remote or otherwise operate gate, VERIFY 3 beep error, turn power off
- 5. Move jumper wire to instead be screwed into GREEN (1st) and BROWN (3rd) terminals now, turn on power, VERIFY no error, turn power off
- 6. Using two jumper wires, to connect GREEN (1st) and ORANGE (4th) *AND* GREEN (1st) and BROWN (3rd) all together. Turn on power, VERIFY 1 beep error, turn off power
If your system does exactly the above steps, your main board is working.
If you have a Master/Slave setup (two gate driveway), here is the additional steps for the Slave portion:
1. Keep mater arm wired up. VERIFY there is no single beep error. The unit only thinks there is a second arm, if it sees voltage between green to brown OR green to orange.
2. Using a jumpter wire, jump green to orange by screwing in both ends, turn on the system, verify no error, turn off the system
3. Use transmitter or otherwise operate gate, verify 4 beep error, turn off
4. More jumperwire to instead be screwed into green and brown now, turn on, verify no error, turn off
5. Using both jumpter iwres, jump green to orange with one wire *and* jump green to brown with the second wire, turn power on, verify 1 beep error, turn off.
This is the end of the testing, if you have a master/slave steup.
The revolution counter board is cheap, model number is RVCTBD50.
The motor is a RS550 motor (there are a few differnet types online. I am not sure exactly which one to buy, but I guess looking for Mighty Mule motor may help) that is used for electric toy cars. If you want to buy a motor with gear on it, it will be more expensive. You can actually buy the motor and reuse the same gear to put on the shaft. In the following video, the gentleman used heat gun to take the gear off the shaft, but amazon actually sells the gear removing tool, as the second video below:
Video about motor replacement ua-cam.com/video/zssyra5lxvc/v-deo.html
Video about pinion removal tool ua-cam.com/video/LyCC_yKew-g/v-deo.html
Hope this saves you some time on your troubleshooting journey. Good luck.
I tested all three components, and it turns out that I need to reset the mater learning for arm extension. Anyway, I learned a lot after I took all the components apart.
To test the main board (for single gate system, R4211/R5211 Jump Testing):
- 1. Turn power switch off. Remove all wires from operator arm terminal connector (color coded terminal)
- 2. Turn power on. VERIFY you get 1 beep error, turn power off
- 3. Using a jumper wire, connect GREEN (1st) to ORANGE (4th) terminals by screwing in both ends. Turn on power, VERIFY no error
- 4. Use Transmitter/remote or otherwise operate gate, VERIFY 3 beep error, turn power off
- 5. Move jumper wire to instead be screwed into GREEN (1st) and BROWN (3rd) terminals now, turn on power, VERIFY no error, turn power off
- 6. Using two jumper wires, to connect GREEN (1st) and ORANGE (4th) *AND* GREEN (1st) and BROWN (3rd) all together. Turn on power, VERIFY 1 beep error, turn off power
If your system does exactly the above steps, your main board is working.
If you have a Master/Slave setup (two gate driveway), here is the additional steps for the Slave portion:
1. Keep mater arm wired up. VERIFY there is no single beep error. The unit only thinks there is a second arm, if it sees voltage between green to brown OR green to orange.
2. Using a jumpter wire, jump green to orange by screwing in both ends, turn on the system, verify no error, turn off the system
3. Use transmitter or otherwise operate gate, verify 4 beep error, turn off
4. More jumperwire to instead be screwed into green and brown now, turn on, verify no error, turn off
5. Using both jumpter iwres, jump green to orange with one wire *and* jump green to brown with the second wire, turn power on, verify 1 beep error, turn off.
This is the end of the testing, if you have a master/slave steup.
The revolution counter board is cheap, model number is RVCTBD50.
The motor is a RS550 motor (there are a few differnet types online. I am not sure exactly which one to buy, but I guess looking for Mighty Mule motor may help) that is used for electric toy cars. If you want to buy a motor with gear on it, it will be more expensive. You can actually buy the motor and reuse the same gear to put on the shaft. In the following video, the gentleman used heat gun to take the gear off the shaft, but amazon actually sells the gear removing tool, as the second video below:
Video about motor replacement ua-cam.com/video/zssyra5lxvc/v-deo.html
Video about pinion removal tool ua-cam.com/video/LyCC_yKew-g/v-deo.html
Hope this saves you some time on your troubleshooting journey. Good luck.
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I connected to LAN, i get all ones. But still nothing shows up on the Tesla website/app
This has nothing to do with Tesla. This is for Solar Edge Inverters for monitoring your solar production. If you have Tesla batteries, you need to contact your installer to set up your battery connection.
@@seanxie3261 but it was showing up on the Tesla app until the zigbee stoped working. The zigbee gateway was provided by Tesla and says Tesla on it. It's a Solar City install which utilizes a Solar Edge Inverter, and I think Solar City was purchased by Tesla after the install. Do I need to contact Tesla and tell them to grab the date from Solar Edge servers? Why does the data make it to the Tesla servers when connected via zigbee but not when connected via wired Ethernet? Also there are no batteries.
thank you so much!! this worked perfectly!!
Great! Take care.
Great. Info! I have the tplink and wondering which port I use. The WAN port or one of the LAN ports. Thanks.
I am sure you need to use the LAN port, as this is one of the client for your tplink router. WAN port goes to your internet service provider or modem
That helps a lot. Thank you
Cool. Take care.
Thank you for sharing this information. I have two of these inverters and one is completely offline by this point. Any support out there to get some clarity is non-existent and solar companies rip you off with pricing to get these back online. Thanks a lot for showing in detail!
sorry to hear that. I guess you have to bite the bullet and fix it. There is really no alternative, I guess. Good luck.
Thanks! This was very helpful. I believe I have the same unit as shown in the video. I’d like to share some additional tips: 1. Even if your Ethernet cable already has two ends, I believe you can use the middle gland to run the cable as shown in the video. The trick is that the entire black rubber bushing up in the gland can come out and you can remove the plastic plug from one of the holes in the bushing. There should be a vertical slot into the hole from the side which allows you to slide your cable in from the side of the bushing while you have the bushing out of the gland. Then you can run the end of the cable through the gland and plug it into the Jack before stuffing the bushing (and cable) back up into the gland. Be sure all the power is off because that is a tight area to work in! 2. After shutting everything down and running and connecting the Ethernet cable, you have to turn the AC disconnect switch (not the switch on the inverter) ON so you can actually use the LCD screen and buttons. 3. After selecting the Communication menu and scrolling down to where you can actually select “LAN” as the communication method, I had to hold the select button in for about a full second for the LAN selection to actually “save”. Otherwise it would just go back to using the cellular modem.
Thank you the information
Anyone getting "g server ping failed" now after months of it being fine?
No. Everything works well. You may want to trouble shoot your network. Maybe connect your laptop to the ethernet cable to see whether you can get good internet connection. I would start from there to isolate the problem. Otherwise, maybe check with your installer to see how to maybe "reboot" the Solaredge inverter.
very nice! thank you so much! For my SE7600H model, the buttons didn't work without the cover. so i had to insert the Ethernet cable closed the cover to operate those buttons. also without power, it didn't work for me. i had to turn back the power on with cover on to get into the setup.
Thanks for the tips!
Do I need to turn everything off when I open the cover??
Well, you need power to program the unit. Yes. There is high voltage within the box, but the low voltage portion is where you will be working on. Do not touch anything at the upper portion, where those thick wires are located. If you are not comfortable, I highly recommend you ask an electrician to help you. You certainly do not want to get electrocated.
@@seanxie3261 i took the cover off without turning off the electricity to the unit. I was scared so I put the cover back and asked that question. LoL. Im going to turn off the circuit breaker to the inverter.
What model number is the inverter in this video?
model SE7600A-USS2RNCB2
Is there anything else to set up on the wifi network? Or once the LAN is enabled it automatically connects to Solar Edge? Thanks for this video. I have exactly the same inverter. Your instructions were helpful.
It should communicate with their server automatically, once it is connected. If you need Wifi, you will need a special Wifi module. Direct connection does not require any additional module. Good luck.
Thanks for your post, it's very informative. A couple questions: In the menu, besides LAN, was there an option to do a direct wi-fi connection, and then use the buttons to enter your router password? I have good wi-fi signal to the area my inverter is located, but hard wiring an ethernet cable between them would be a bit of a pain. Or would another option be to use an TP Link Powerline ethernet connection kit for the ethernet connection?
You need a WiFi adapter in your unit for WiFi to work. Maybe your unit is WiFi capable. Mine is not. Mine is 3G connection only. The installer said it will cost me, I think $400 to $600 to install the adapter. If your menu indicated Wifi option, just try it. Maybe it will work. Good luck.
Another point you have is about the TP Link Powerline ethernet. It will certainly work. The only problem I am thinking is that you need to have power to the TP Powerline adapter. Where are you going to find power to the TP Powerline adapter? Theoretically, you can tap into the unit (I am sure there is voltage within the unit), but it would be too risky to mess with the unit in such a way, especially because we are not so family with the unit. You certainly do not want to get electrocuted, you know.
Thank you for posting this. My SolarEdge 2g just expired. I will be hooking up lan using this video
Good luck. it should work. Just be careful not to touch anything on the top portion of the box. Those are high voltage area.
So you don't need to use the SetApp to configure? Will it automatically default to LAN after you select it?
No need for any app. Just go through the on-screen menu that I described in the video. Use the navigation keys to select LAN. You will see the status once the connection is successful.
Do i need to remove anything 3g modem related? Can i leave everything there?
I would just leave everything alone. It will not function anyway.
@@seanxie3261 thanks. Another video from other people showing you need to get into the setapp to change the setting to LAN. This isn't true and I can follow this instead right?
@@heoung8611 you do not need the app. Just follow the steps in the video. You DO need the four push buttons to make it to work. Those are the programming navigation keys. For some units, the buttons are accessible from outside the cover. Mine is inside, unfortunately. That is why I have to open the cover. Please be careful about the high voltage area. Do not get electrocuted. The top part of the box is the high voltage area. Only work on the bottom part of the controller.
Thanks!! Worked perfectly!
glad it helped
Do you remove the old sigbee card or just leave it and remove antenna? Also is there any other configuration you have to do or just pretty much plug and play with the ethernet cable besides what you showed.
I left the old 3G card alone. I guess you can remove it. I simply removed the antenna, as it sticks out of the box and looks ugly. Also, as it is a live system, I don't want to get in trouble by removing the card and accidentally touching/shorting something. Sometimes, less is more. Thanks.
I removed the wifi antennae card and my LAN connection has a mod bus error and dhcp error fail. I am still trying to figure it out
1 and half years old Noritz they can send you free modern board for sure
Thank you!!! This saved me $500
Glad it helped
Thanks so much for this. My unit had one additional step. After selecting "Communication- OK", I had to choose "Server- OK", and then "LAN- OK". Otherwise, your instructions were perfect!
Thank you for the update. I am sure it will help many people.
Right on this step helped. Thank you!
This was exactly my problem about a year ago. Noritz sent me a new motherboard and it fixed it then. Now again a year later I have the same exact problem.
Thanks for the update. I think Noritz should fix these issues for free (including labor), as this really looks bad on the company's reputation. However, given the business environment nowadays in this country. Everything is going downhill...
With new units, it can be as simple as connecting the crossover wire. If you open up the unit, if you look at the bottom left corner, there are a bunch of wires. The purple line has a label of crossover. Connect the two purple wires. That fixed it for me
Thanks for this video and your notes.
Glad if it helped you.
Nice wideo one question u need turn off all panels and inverter before take out panel or it's not need
not sure exactly what you meant. I don't think I turned everything off before I remove the front panel of the controllers. Yes, there is area of very high voltage I remember at the top of the controllers. Be careful not to touch that area, as you can be electrocuted otherwise. The area you need to work on is the low voltage area, where most of the circuit boards are located. Take care.
My understanding: shut it all down per SolarEdge procedure. Run your Ethernet cable. Turn only the AC disconnect back on (so the lcd screen and menus will work). Select your options to select LAN. Once that is set, if it were me, I’d then disconnect the AC again, put the cover(s) back on, then do the shutdown procedure in reverse order to turn it all back on. In my case, it took several minutes for the system to come back up and then it went through a long process of getting status for each panel. All of that said, I’m not a pro and you shouldn’t listen to me. ua-cam.com/video/EQF842diPAY/v-deo.htmlsi=l7FPLhfcDUY6Z1sn
This is exactly what is going on. I have two units in conjunction and both are throwing error 63.
This 63 code is partially confusing. A usual technician may not be able to figure it out. As I mentioned, Noritz SHOULD recall their old motherboards. This is really a consumer protection issue. If this video helps you, it is exactly what I am trying to achieve.
Dude, thank you so much for the shortcut!
You are very welcome. Hope all is well.
Was the inverter dial switched to “on” during this process? What about the breakers? I’m going to try this and don’t want to get electrocuted.
When it is on "off" position, the power is still on. You need to do a total shutdown, if you want to turn off the entire power. I guess it is always safer to turn off everything before you open the cover. If you want to do that, you need to switch off connection to the solar panel as well, as there is power coming down from the panels. You however need to turn on the power to program the system, unless your buttons are outside of the panel (for some version of inverters only). If you look at the video, everything below are low voltage. Just do not touch anything above where the orange colored wire area. Maybe wear insulation gloves too. If you are not comfortable with electrical stuff, maybe ask an electrician.
Check your air inlet screen.
It was the pc board. The installer told me it is a known issue for that model.
Hero. Thanks a lot :).
Glad it helped
Thank you! This was the last piece of the “UA-cam” puzzle to change my inverter to LAN. Got it done!
glad it helped