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Thank you! I just packed up all my tools for moving, but I believe I'm using a 4-1/2" wheel (whatever fits your grinder), by 1/8" or less. You really want a thin grinding disk to minimize the metal ground away to create a fluid image of a metal band wrapping around the barrel.

I also posted a newer, updating process of making these barrels into cabinets. It's on the channel - lots of good info and double checking what to do there.

Appreciate it! I have a updated video out now as well. I use double doors and go slightly more in-depth for the instructions.

I've since changed designs - I do double doors now, each about 12" wide for a total opening of ~24"

Awesome! It's a fun project. I have a 2nd video with a slightly updated method for converting barrels and is what I follow today.

I do not. I wash it out and scrub out that flaky charred wood, but I don't seal the inside. I only coat the outside in polyurethane. The charred wood will act as a preservative and deter any bugs as well.

It wouldn't hurt to do so. Once the barrel head is inserted into the staves it should be fairly secure, but extra stability will never hurt. For the loss in tension, I started trimming off the overlapping stave and metal bands. Also, I've been getting lucky with barrels just not expanding as much after the door is cut out. Good luck with the barrel!

I use a standard stock item from Home Depot (in America). It's 6" diameter swivel bearing.

Oops sorry, I was a bit too soon with my question. Saw your reaction to a similar question, where you suggested that removing some staves and bending the metal could work, so I’ll be trying that! Will let you know if it worked out or not

Sorry for the delayed response. That happens to me as well. The door expands when the bands are cut and pressure is release. You nailed it. I install the door (or doors if 2) and remove the final stave that expanded too far. I load it on a sled board and run in through my table saw with the saw blade angled to whatever the staves are. Slowly, but surely, I make it fit. Now only the metal bands will be extended to far - I make a new line and angle grind those off. I also bend them, but it still sometimes ends up to "expanded' and I need to cut. How'd it go!?

@@leaf_and_knot no worries, thank you for your reply! Firstly I tried bending the door before installing it, it worked a bit but not entirely. Then I saw your comment and it worked much better! It’s not completely perfect but the door fits and it opens up easy. So I might try to optimise it a bit more and otherwise I’m quite happy with the way it is now. Especially for my first try haha, so thanks a lot!

Another tool I do need to invest in!

Thanks for watching!

I appreciate the feedback! Cheers man!

Cheers

I appreciate it. I've made many at this point and had my fair share of trial and error. I'm always trying to improve the methods!

Sorry the delay! So this issue almost always happens - it varies to what degree of severity. I've had to install the door (or doors if 2) and then trim away the excess when the closed door meets the edge. Uninstall the stave that expanded to far, trim away on a table saw and reattach until its flush to your liking. You will also have to grind away the excess metal bands. It's annoying, but really 50/50 after your pop the door off. Sometimes almost no modification is needed, sometimes you gotta work at it.

Nothing at all. In fact, it would be much easier without adding the doors! You could use the door cut out staves for other projects too.

Good luck! I have a new barrel video out with a bit more detail. I use French style doors now instead of a single big door, plus some other tips and tricks.

That's a possible solution I hadn't considered and I think you're correct - you'd have to make sure the shelf didn't become misaligned. You'd also want to make sure each caster is the same level as the others - which seems difficult given the warping and unevenness of the barrel bottom.

Definitely all good points to consider. ​@@leaf_and_knot

As a project manager, he keeps track of the important steps. Am I sanding correctly, are there treats, and what time is dinner!

Thank you for the info! I've had some barrels outside the one in the video use horseshoe nails - I believe the cooper or distillery is adding them. I usually pop them off and replace. I do need to invest in a oscillating tool - that would make my life much easier. I've seen some of the variations for the interior doors you mentioned, but I have yet to modify them in that way. I'll probably test it out on my own barrel first before offering the option. I'm always open to ideas and suggestions - thank you for the comment!

In this video I was using 5/8" self tapping screws. However, I no longer use them. I started using #8 3/4" truss head wood screws that are much better. Like these: amzn.to/3QJrs5p

Just normal wood glue - Titebond brand

Thank you! Cheers!

That's great! There are many ways to make the game, this is just my version. Best of luck learning and building new things!

Great question - I do 2 coats on the sides of the barrel. The top of the barrel is 3 - 5 coats. Whatever I feel makes it smooth and clean since it will be the table-top-display part of the barrel. It will also likely see the most wear and tear, so multiple coats are used.

The interior shelves are 2 coats, for reference.

Thank you! Cheers!

Yep, that's what I use. Although I had someone order a board with no finish and they applied tung oil (the 100% natural one). Several tung oils have non-food safe additives. Word of caution there.

Thank you, I appreciate it!

I used a handsaw to cut the barrel staves and an angle grinder to cut the metal bands. You could use a jigsaw to cut the barrel if you can drill an entry point first (what I do now)

No real secret, the fumes will go away as the polyurethane dries. I polyurethane it in the garage or outside and wait until it dries there. (1-2 days)

No customers have mentioned it yet, but I suppose they were planning on it. You could definitely elevate it with a platform. I tell people to place it on a spare carpet piece or rug to prevent the bottom metal ring from scratching up the floor.

Hey there! In the video (but not really shown) I used some aluminum strips. Maybe 3/8" wide and trimmed the length to size. It helped a little.

This is pine, stained to color and sealed with a polyurethane. If you want the "standard" Cornhole board, there are websites that have how thick and what size it needs to be. From memory, it's a plywood board with a 2x4 frame.

Hey Alex, I do. I'm taking a break during January and a bit of February due to the cold here in Nebraska. But I have about 5 more barrels lined up to be worked on.

Hey there, sorry for the late reply. I used pine/fir and stained with dark walnut.

I've had that happen before. You can try and remove a stave or two and bending the metal back into a more circular shape. I don't think it's possible for it to be 100% flush, but should be close.

@leaf_and_knot thanks. I wound up getting some Steel wire and some tightening devices and I'll try and bend it to my will the week. I'll let you know how it turns out

I charge $500 if someone provides their own barrel, assuming they want all the things - lazy Susan, LED lights, etc.

I currently use #8 3/4" self tapping screws with a round head, which work great. I used #10 5/8" in the video, which I've since changed to the above.

@@metzvm started my barrel today and picked up the #8’s. They worked great. Thank you for the reply.

Thank you! GBR!

I would love to use a planer, sadly, I don't own one. It's on my soon to get list.

Hey there. I typically measure the inside of the barrel around the upper middle metal band. Or roughly about 14" inches down from the top. I usually get about 22.5" to 22.75" for the diameter. Then I cut off the edge of the shelf to make it flat across - but you could leave it as a large circular middle shelf - up to you! I found trimming it straight made it easy to reach bottom shelf bottles.

I appreciate it, thank you!

Hey there! I'm making another barrel with some updated methods and parts listing. It is a more detailed video on how to make a barrel cabinet. I'll release it soon. In the meantime: 1 lazy susan bracket (home depot if in USA) 2 heavy duty hinges 100 self tapping screws (5/8" or 3/4", #10) I used a harden drill bit to make the pilot holes in metal bands. Same size as screws used. 1x12"x6' board cut in two to create shelf (x2) I couldn't find a 1x12"x4' board LED light strip with AC power from Amazon (warm lighting used, not daylight. Preference) 1 can of warm polyurethane - g;pssy or semi gloss 2-3 foam brushes You'll need your own tools to make the cuts, sanding, etc as seen in the video. Updated vide coming soon with better description on what I did.

I used a piece of aluminum that I bought at a Menards. The bottom staves were just a bit wiggly for my liking. I don't think this is needed for all barrels.

My first barrel was actually a wine barrel. They are usually in much better condition and easier to work with. I've done a Bulleit with great results. I have a 2nd video with some updated methods coming soon that hopefully might help everyone. Appreciate the comment!

Hey there. I don't have a great solution. I was able to fix it on a previous barrel by drilling new holes and initially lining the door up a bit better and taking the flex into account. I used wood filler to hide the holes. It's probably too late now, but I've angled the hinges upwards just slightly to try and offset the door sag. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I don't have a great solution for the hinge flexing. Some of my barrels are perfect and other rub too much. You can try sanding or removing some of the excess wood on the door where it runs.

Hey there, I bend them at home - smacking them with a hammer and adjusting to fit the curve of the barrel

Hey there! I have the same issue on probably 50% of the barrel doors. Sometimes the issues is a poor hinge with too much play. I try to angle the door upwards just a bit to compensate for the sag. The other technique I am trying right now on a new barrel is not removing the metal bands for sanding. Leaving the metal bands on the barrel and sanding around them seems to keep the barrel wood in place better. I wish I had a better answer because it is a real problem and some customers aren't happy about it.

I believe there are some that open from the inside that may have the reach called a concealed hinge. You could also experiment with a 170 degree hinge that has a unique range of opening. Otherwise, the curve of the wood will get in the way of a normal hinge.

Hey there! I do know what you mean. You are correct, the bulge or roundness or circumference of the barrel in the middle can create a problem with any door that opens flush with it. I only place my hinges between the two inner metal bands. Placing them any higher and the door won't fully open. The hinges do have a little stress on them from the roundness of the barrel, but they are working. I would recommend using two hinges due to the weight of the door. The door can sag, even with two hinges, so it's important to mount it correctly before screwing into place. I don't trust one hinge. In the future, I will try doing a French door - basically two smaller doors that open from the middle. Hope this helps!

Hi. Thanks a lot, I'll factor that in. Yeah I will try and go for two doors as well. Still the hinge issue kept me thinking but your insights are very helpful.