Відео

I prefer well-made tools from America or Europe also, but agree that for low volume use they can be hard to justify. I bought the really cheap crimp tool from SteinAir for the avionics connector pins, but didn’t really like it as it wasn’t a ratcheting tool and you had to crimp entirely by feel. I debated getting the industry standard DMC tool, but it was close to $700 with tool and positioned. So, I split the difference and got a JReady tool which is essentially a DMC knockoff. It isn’t DMC quality and I am not sure it would do 2,000 terminal, but then I’m doing maybe a couple hundred at most and so far it has worked well. It sets up like the DMC for specific pin sizes and wire gauges and seems pretty solid and accurate and it is a ratcheting tool so has greater consistency than the much cheaper SteinAir tool.

Making good progress there. You are 6-9 months ahead of me. I’m building doors now and doing electrical. I am building my panel from scratch and that is a time consuming process.

No one is going to fault you for using the cheaper tool, especially when it performs the same task. The funny thing is that my dad was a Snap-on guy, and his son is the Harbor Freight guy, and to me, you performed the spark plug wire fitting flawlessly. You could have checked them with an ohms meter to make sure they are at the proper resistance. Good work.

Great video thanks

Dad and Chad had a similar issue on the same grommets I think. Wires were pulling away inside engine bay. Seems way too tight to me even if you expand the gromet size.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again - you and the Project Manager work together like an Operating Room Team. Inspiring.

The Rans looks great! I continue to be impressed with your team effort!

I purchased the air box front and it fits perfectly nice and clean follow the instructions like your videos I had same issues with the fasteners what is the tape you used under the cowl in the back?

I guess I didn't see your alternator cooling hose!!?? Just a suggestion that the winged cam locks for the oil filler door save having to have a Phillips screwdriver in your pocket.

Dzus Fasteners, after Ukrainian-American inventor William Dzus back in the 1930s.

Happy 40th 1st Date Anniversary!

Little did you know then you would have an aircraft building in the family. Not everyone has such a nice builder to work with.

You really need a screwdriver to open the oil door? That’s nuts.

👋 Just caught that 😂

I was surprised to see you drilling from the firewall to the nose. I would have started at the front so that any slack was driven to the firewall where it is easier to sand off a little excess. I still think you can fix that easily with just a little lightweight body filler.

You can correct the fit of the upper/lower cowling by adding some fiberglass to the lower cowling and sanding it to fit before you paint the cowling. It will take quite a bit of layers but you can sand it to fit; just takes time and a little work.

I am surprised that RANS makes the cowls so oversized. There is a lot of material to trim off.

I haven't seen the final instrument panel until now. It's really clean. Keeping to the essentials gives it a relaxed presentation. Nice job.

Build up the lower cowl to match the upper w/ thickened gelcoat

I started my doors today and something doesn’t seem right. My aft trim strips appear to be white as are yours, but the lower and forward pieces are clear plastic with white film on the outside with writing on it. I peeled off the film and the pieces are clear. That didn’t concern me too much as I will probably paint them anyway, but my forward trim piece isn’t even close to being the right angle for the door. I aligned the top leg and found the angle at the knee to be way off. The bottom end of the forward trim strip is more than 3/4” off of alignment. Yours appears to align fine in your video. I can force the bottom into position, but it makes the trim strip wavy and slight buckled at the knee. Did you have any such issue? It didn’t appear so from your video.

I found when fitting my wingtips that an orbital sander worked great for the final finishing. You can use 80 grit initially and then move down as you get closer. The orbital is much less aggressive than a belt sander, but quite a bit faster than hand sanding. And as long as you keep it moving and are careful, you can sand very straight lines even though it isn’t long and flat like a belt sander or hand sanding block. And my DeWalt does a great job of sucking the dust through the holes in the pad so it makes much less dust than either a belt or hand sanding block.

I am planning to run my Rotax a few times before installing my cowl for exactly the reason you mentioned. I suspect the vibration will seat the engine mounts and likely induce some amount of sag. The Rotax vibrates less than the Titan and has different engine mounts, but I think any elastomeric mount is going to settle with vibration first and then with age.

I noticed on ours that the fwd edge of the lower aluminum boot cowl skins were not 100% straight. Keep that in mind when trying to sand (straight) the aft vertical edge of the lower cowl.

At 2:50…I placed a fairly large dab of red RTV silicone sealant right on the corner where the hose goes around. Let it dry and it becomes a permanent cushion. Stole the idea from a brother who is AP/IA.

I noticed the same thing with the foam and VHB. The parts manual shows only VHB and the figures manual shows only foam tape. Well, the parts manual shows it off the side, but not in position. I suspect using both is the way to go, although, VHB alone might work. Not sure it would get pressed tightly enough against the plastic without the foam. I even checked the current manuals on the web site and they seem to still be the same as my 4 year old manual set.

Joggle juggling? I've heard of this! 400 vids? Congrats!

Wow! 400, thats a lot of data! Congrats, you are getting close to being done.

Wait till you get to the fasteners I fit everything up and let it air for a cupa weeks before the fasteners Thanks for the videos

Nothing a little bondo won’t fix at the end. 😁

Remember that the engine sags a bit, so you want the spinner higher by 1/4"-3/8" on first installation. At the open house, I saw many S-21s, mine included, with spinners lower than the top of the cowl due to this.

I truly enjoy your videos. Unlike most other creators you show work WITHOUT a bunch of unnecessary commentary. Your dedication to DAILY work is equally impressive.

Love the build. Please consider a mask when cutting carbon. Vacuum cleaner or not....

Yes enjoying videos. You two are awesome.

Worked with a guy that came to work an hour early for years on the _Monday_ after the time change. But never mind that. the plane looks great!

Good idea not to push things too far when making critical cuts. Never hurts to sleep on it.

Almost certainly overkill on the hose clamps. In 55 years of using worm gear style hose clamps, I’ve never seen one work loose. The biggest failure mode for these style clamps is over tightening them. This distorts the screw thread slots and deforms the worm gear housing and that can lead to failure.

Careful…don’t be messing with Project Manager. 😂

Just curious, why did you choose a two blade prop and not a tri blade prop?

Your videos are the bomb.

Did you have a way to spin the unit before final drilling to check that there wasn’t any nose wobble in the spinner?

Makes me glad my Airmaster came with a nice chrome spinner that just screwed on. 😁

You are getting closer & closer to an engine start. Please remember to install the alternator belt before you do the final prop install. It is pain to remove the prop to replace or install the belt, been there, done that.

What's all the hubbub, bud? Looking good!

You may have posted this on another video but can’t find it. Where did you find the panel trim strip?

I would bet that Clint at Vetterman would move the fitting on the heat muffler for you at some saving$.

I had fun running the heater hoses for my Rotax heater and they are just 3/4” heater hoses for water. Looks like you are having even more fun running your SCAT tubing than I had with my heater hoses. The water hoses are much smaller, but they are also much stiffer and getting the spring clamps on them was fun to say the least.

You bought all of those Aerosport parts and you are worried about $400 for a heater muffler? 😁

That is beautiful! You two are doing really nice work. You will be able to fly it with lots of confidence.

You’ll never use that handheld radio. I wouldn’t have the extra equipment flopping around.

There are some (maybe earlier) heater boxes, that have offset inlet/ outlets. I felt that might make running the hose easier. Ours is like yours and I ended up trimming the inner corner of the oil cooler bracket to keep it from rubbing. I also used two sets of clamps on the intakes.