Відео

Nice choice in soundtrack

I've been waiting for this explanation ever since I started climbing, thank you so much!

Great video! Its so hard to find videos explaining intermediate level climbing to detail; its all so superficial lately.

A short and rainy stint in the beautiful Blueys of New South Wales which are ironically reminiscent of The Red's sandstone in Kentucky. Madge MacDonald 25 / 5.12b pulls off the ground with its hardest moves of pockets and crimps. The rest of the climb mocks you with big moves and bigger holds daring you to fall off its pumpy track before the glorious jug rail where you look down and wonder how it could've been that hard at all. Lower off to the sound of cicadas and the picturesque Centennial Glen waterfalls and do it all over again!

Some years back, I walked up there and found a crowd gathered below Triple Crown; a woman who climbed WAY harder than me was struggling to turn the lip of the second roof and repeatedly failing, hanging on the rope and trying that move without success. Amidst the other calls of advice, I called up a suggestion that she place her "lip foot" differently... She looked down at me in obvious disgust - she KNEW that I was a 5.9 leader on a good day - and said sternly, "Lower me." When she dirted, she said to me with a sneer, "Perhaps you'd like to SHOW me how it's done." I looked up and gulped... hey, the draws were set to the move, and I thought, it's a top rope to go try that lip move. "I'll try," I said weekly. As I turned to put on my shoes and harness, I heard the sickening sound of the rope slapping through the draws as she pulled it. "I didn't mean that I wanted to LEAD it," I objected in horror. "Well now all my draws are up there," she smiled coldly, "so I guess you HAVE TO, don't you?" She looked rather victorious... I tied on. My vision silvered out and a rushing in my ears drowned out everything external. I don't remember floating my way to that lip move, but I DO remember doing exactly what I had recommended and continuing through the third roof with a knee-bar above my head, arriving at the chains trembling like an aspen leaf. Back on the ground, I was greeted with a lot of bulging eyes and slack jaws - the whole crew knew me, and knew that I climbed nowhere NEAR that grade. I think that was the last time Paula ever spoke to me... BTW, I remember that I climbed the second and third roofs facing right, for what it's worth. 🙏

Incredible climb, great job

Your intrepid hero's first day out on Oz rock pits him not at the Grampians, Arapiles, nor the Blueys, but rather a small local crag in the suburbs of Newcastle with rock reminiscent of the Red River Gorge. This lil' punchy number didn't look like much from the ground up but after some jug-hauling goodness there lay a thin showstopper crux guarding the chains that was certainly worth tying up for.

Would it be possible that a beginner hires a guide to secure him and instruct him while he climbs ?

Cool video! I see that your insta360 camera glass got scratched in the process.Did you use gorilla glass premium lense covers ?

That sloper to the right of the second bolt at the crux SUCKS lol. Great job pulling through on that small LH crimp there. Really wild climb and would be a lifetime achievement for me to lead it.

finally the ASMR we wanted

Supporting your feelings: it seems like you have good, mindful breathing. Future-you will smile at some of those placements. :-) But good shit - another great climb in the experience bucket! Nice job my dude. Thanks for sharing.

The protection looks really cryptic on that first pitch. Does small offset nuts work well in Gunks stone? The leaf blowers in the background…😅

Looked like fairly juggy holds whenever you needed pro? Are gear anchors like that common in the gunks (never seen cams left behind before)?

Pre-placed trad gear?

how high was that route? (btw your crazy)

So dope props for doing it one pitch, have to get on this one

Nooo, they took away donuts from dunkin :) !!!!

Yikes

Cuts off too soon. 😡

Bro good luck

The second pitch of Carbs and Caffeine 5.11a in the Shawangunks of New York is a flagship climb and perhaps the easiest way up the improbable-looking Yellow Wall. After wandering up blocky moves reminiscent of Rumney you face down the bolted "crux" that I found quite casual with a very intuitive kneebar. Re-establishing on your feet, catch your breath and charge up and around the last few tiers of fantastic holds and even more fantastic pump before the triumphant ending on the best horn in town.

how long have you been climbing?

jeez the beginning looked so hard

i like it people climbing when i wanna go to sleep

The start of The Winter 5.10d in the Gunks is a cryptic boulder problem with okay-ish protection before establishing into a thin dihedral. This right-facing corner supposedly takes good gear but call it my gumby brain or not I couldn't fit any of the wires I owned at all. Getting away with a marginal black totem you can stem up through the alleged crux although I found it much less hairy than the opening boulder moves. Pitch 2 boils down to a heady roof pull reminiscent of Six-Foot Man Roof at Farley Ledges (which goes at 5.11d...). The second pitch goes at 5.10b yet both felt equally hard to me but heck, what are grades in the Gunks anyways. Pitch 2 starts at: 13:20

I'm feeling like the belayer should also receive stoke credits. Also, waiting for the "How is this everyone's first 13a!?" video.

This climb along with ua-cam.com/video/9OZZWhjc5-I/v-deo.html seems to be many people's first 5.12a and also much like that climb I couldn't even free the moves until this season. Captain Hook 5.12a at Orange Crush allegedly has many betas but all revolve around a vital crimp much smaller than usual. Bolstered by a good crew and good vibes, your intrepid hero finally pulls this off on his last day, and not a moment too soon as the sun slowly creeps up the wall and the traffic on the long drive home accumulates.

how do you get your hooks back? I mean if you pull them out while getting dowwn you just fall right?

Sport routes? Looks like this rock will take good gear.

The bottom is much harder, but I'd rather do that for 30 more feet than do that top section lol.

The beginning was a masterpiece!

A nice little boulder problem in the vein of ua-cam.com/video/L6u8QReAlVw/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/9OZZWhjc5-I/v-deo.html this climb might be on the soft side since it's relatively new and consensus is still zero-ing in. Still, happy to be taking the points and running, this is me on the send in rainy weather and frigid temps even if my stellar video-editing skillz make it look sunny and warm.

finally, proper headwear

Absolute banger dude. nothing like getting to the top of a rumney route and seeing some rusty chains lmao

Thanks for the beta I just tried that climb today and had trouble at the crux after the right to left traverse. Reading your description was funny as I also first tried to jump from the ledge instead of going right then right to left traverse. I did figure that part out and the heel toe cam but not where to bump my right hand

I thought it was going to be complain about every route at acorn wall in a day until you got to Radiant.

was just here two days ago! beautiful in the fall

Supper's Ready 5.12a is one of the many star lines at The Shawangunks in New York. The embodiment of Gunks roof climbing, two crimpy cruxes guard entry to still non-trivial moves through the tiers before the final (imho third crux) throw onto the headwall. Opportunities to climb here and on king lines like these are rare so yours truly is happy to bag a pinkpoint with his half-baked beta instead of putting in the time and work for the send. One day I'll come back stronger, wiser, and more good-looking and walk the true path...

The gunks is one of those places you look at climbing videos of and think "Wow I sure hope I have the chance to never climb there"

Hell yeah!!!

Nice! More than one person has fallen after turning the lip into 5.6 territory :)

Good job How much harder is it to place gear on this? Looks like very strenuous stances LOL

good stuff!

Babe, get in here! New heavy breathing ASMR just dropped!

Nice work man!

Wow! That’s impressive! Awesome climbing Max!!!

HO. LY. SHIT! Great work! ...and here I was bein' all proud of breaking into 5.10s at the Gunks..... :D

Footage of this climb was one of the first beta videos I ever watched, uploaded by the august Lee Hansche. Despite never having climbed with him, I owe him a great deal for everything he shared on MP, beta, and immense stoke. I've run into some real tools and bad vibes even in the welcoming Rumney community but thankfully there was always Lee to balance it out with positivity. This upload is a nod to him and his huge influence on my climbing life. Thanks for everything Lee. Rest In Peace.