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I havent seen a compressor that has done that before, could you give me some more information on the model?

FACTS! Did you figure it out bro? these airbrush compressors are 🗑️

On my model I think I can get up to 50 but that might make it too hot. You would want to get an external air tank or a higher quality model to consistently get better pressure. When it comes to small things like miniature figure, shoes, etc, you dont need a whole lot of pressure. If you are doing like t-shirt artistry or painting a wall you would need more

And you mean 50 while spraying? Thanks for your help!

@@sheldonnorton9035 Yes for mine I get around a maximum of 50 while spraying. If you set it and it drops significantly in pressure you will want to check for leaks.

I tried an Iwata as opposed to my cheaper brush and then got 30psi. So perhaps it is all leak related. I should try a new hose as well.

Im swooning

As long as the motor doesnt get too hot, which can happen on the cheaper models, yes it is perfectly fine. I usually run it for a few hours at a time. It refills itself to keep steady pressure at all time.

Glad it could help you 👍

Well once you paint the shoe you are not conditioning the leather anymore, and you cant condition paint. I highly suggest using angelus finisher, liquid kicks finisher, or a light spray of treehouse clear coat

What seems to be the issue?

The first thing I would try is disassembling everything and letting all of the parts soak in warm cleaning solution overnight. Then use cleaning keys with the brush on them and try to REALLY deep clean everything

@@MarldainLunas Is there a specific video you could recommend for the airbrush that comes with this particular compressor?

@@jaysmith9560 An airbrush is a separate thing from a compressor. You will have to know the brand and model of the airbrush itself. Once you figure that out it will be easier. I suggest Bloodshot Airbrushing youtube channel 'airbrushing tips for beginners' ua-cam.com/video/VvTAULr20Jg/v-deo.html

It is normal for an air compressor to get hot to the touch when using it for some amount of time. If it is hot to where it can burn you with a light touch, then there may be an issue with airflow that is making it work too hard. You can always try to find if there are any air leaks and seal them.

Hey I have the same exact one that I just bought, I can’t seem to change the pressure on it and it goes right up to 60psi and turns right off. I’ve tried pulling it up and changing it but the needle doesn’t move abs no air comes out the brush when I pull the trigger back

The bluish undertone of the mint should actually help with the tone of the off white. You would just need the off white. It will take a few layers to get a solid color, but it should be just fine

Im not sure I follow your question.

You might have a cheaper compressor. I have had a couple that dont go very high. The best thing for now to try is use some plumbing teflon tape around all the hoses and connectors. This is to limit leaks. Another way is to have a compressor with an external air tank. That way you should have constant high pressure.

Liberal amounts of white teflon tape (used for plumbing), wrapped around any hose connectors. This should make them air tight.

Its usually on while you are spraying. It will build pressure up to the 10psi and wait for you to press the button. When you press it the pressure Wil go down a little bit. So you want to set the right pressure while its blowing air. So when it idles it may be somewhere around 25psi

Good luck on your project! Also read through the comments on this video for more tips :)

@@MarldainLunas Thank you very much. <3 I'll definitely do that! I already noticed that there's often useful tips and ideas found among the comments under these kinda videos. ^^

Maybe make sure all of the seals are tight where air could get out. Teflon tape on anything that screws in. I will note, when you press the trigger the pressure goes down naturally

:D Of course, hold the air

You can find them in specialty online stores, or hardware store. Just be sure to read the description. I think they are 5 horsepower

Yes for shoes I suggest scuffing.

@@MarldainLunas thanks for the info!

If it is dark brown: First layer light gray, second layer 50/50 light gray and white. Third layer white. Fourth layer pink. It should be more vibrant when you bring the saturation of dark and muddy, and slowly bringing it up brighter.

@@MarldainLunas thank you very much for your help! 😊

Its the simple things in life. Have fun

That just depends how vibrant you want it to be. You want to do fewer layers of paint, so if you are using a dark paint then a dark base is ok. But if you want white or yellow, you should use a light base. Try painting yellow over black, and yellow over white to see what I mean.

@@MarldainLunas thank you

Can you elaborate what you mean? I understand going with the grain is true for painting on wood, but for leather?

@@MarldainLunas the grain in the leather is similar to the grain on wood.. it has tiny crevices in it, and if you paint into the crevices of the grain it will cover more evenly and faster. everything has surface tension, and the paint resist going into the cracks. I can see on your vid the grain tends to run horizontally. if u look at it closely, u will see it . cowhide leather has a ladder type pattern to it.,

@@randy1ization Interesting. From what I have experienced it is mostly just randomized raised bumps and divots. I work mostly with sneaker leathers so they are either poor quality or synthetic and dont have a structured grain to speak of. Usually for the most part when doing purses and shoes its on the rough side of the leather and not the 'skin side?' or they have already been previously painted in some way. It is probably important if painting raw leather, but I dont know. I cant find any research or discussions about this topic anywhere, only about when cutting the leather the grain is important for bending and flexing. I will try to do more research and if you would be willing to cite any references that would be wonderful

Angelus paint is perfect for the project. First you should use 'preparer and deglazer' or acetone to remove any of the factory protectants or finishes. Then you can start painting. Since it is a larger surface I do suggest using an airbrush, but you can do it with brushes. I suggest a soft larger brush, not really the paint store kind because the bristles are too thick. Be sure to follow my video on how to spread the paint. Have a good covered first layer, that is thin, and let it dry a good amount of time before the next layer. Once its painted, may take 5 or more layers. Finish it With a top coat meant for leather. I suggest Liquid Kicks, but angelus just released some finishers that are essentially the same thing.

Can I paint my leather recliners coach with this?

What do you mean by some of it has come off, in what way? Have you already painted it yellow, or was it already that way?

@@MarldainLunas it was always yellow, some of the paint has I guess rubbed off with age. It’s an older leather bag

@@hamtaropuff It may be hard to match the color. Here is what I suggest. First go over the whole thing with acetone to remove the old paint and grime. Relax the leather with rubbing alcohol, let it dry. Then when painting: since its a dark color: start with a layer of white, then 20/80 white/yellow, then 50/50, then full yellow until it looks good.

@@MarldainLunas thank you so much!!

Yes. As stated at 2:15 and other parts of the video I highly suggest letting the layers dry completely before applying another.

@@MarldainLunas someone didn’t watch the video

Hmmm. Well that boils down to a couple things to keep in mind. The biggest thing is matching the sheen of the rest of the leather. If you cover your paint with a gloss, but the rest of the leather is matte it will look strange, if you know what I mean. I recommend Liquid Kicks finishers, and Angleus new leather finishers. I personally paint portions of leather, but I presume you want to paint the entire thing? If that is the case, then angelus does look like leather. As long as you use thin smooth layers it will keep the texture of the original leather. If painting only a portion, say a picture, you would want to keep the color scheme in mind if you want a more natural look. Hope that helps?

@@MarldainLunas Actually the jacket is red it only has two 2 inches long black strips that I want to paint white, I was thinking of using the matte finisher cause it's not a new jacket. But I'm not sure how the matte finish will match the rest of the jacket.

@@regularape Well without seeing the jacket I would suggest liquid kicks 'factory' finish. It has a slight sheen to it but closer to a well worn leather. Also going from black to white is the hardest color choice you could do. Do a layer of dark gray, then light gray, then off white, then white. Airbrush would be preferable.

@@MarldainLunas Ok i'll try that. Thanks for the help!

There aren't too many leather paint brands out there. Depending on what country you are in, they may have some, but you will need to ask around the specialty markets.

It is water based yes, but its not water as the medium, 2thin is. The difference is that 2thin is a medium that keeps the color pigment evenly spread throughout the paint mixture. Angelus paint is water soluble, meaning the more water you ad, it breaks down that medium and makes the pigments clump together.

Use white

Glad I could help. Let me know if you have any further questions

I had no idea!

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