Відео

Yes, a 12VDC motor will work with this circuit. I would recommend increasing the frequency (use a smaller capacitor value) so that it is out of the audible range. Someone else had commented that they heard an audible noise from the motor when using this at the 1kHz frequency.

Temu. You can also search "glow in the dark white pebbles" online and probably find similar from other sellers as well.

I updated the schematic picture on Github to show the switch now. I put the switch between the +12V power supply and the whole circuit. Yeah, I can understand not wanting to put a switch on the main power line in your case if you are running 10A. So there are actually two ways I would suggest: 1. If you want to use a switch, you can put it so that it cuts off power to only the 555 timer circuit. Then, connect the LEDs (+) directly to the power source and the (-) to the drain of the MOSFET. The LEDs won't turn on if the 555 timer IC has no power to drive the MOSFET. 2. Someone else commented about how they had put an RC low pass filter on the output of the 555 timer (on the gate of the MOSFET) to turn it completely off when the potentiometer is completely left. That will work by slowing down the turn-on time enough that the gate threshold voltage is not reached. The disadvantage is that you can't get max brightness anymore. It goes from about 0% - 90% instead of 10% to 99% brightness. I tested it with a series 100ohm resistor and a parallel 0.1uF cap on the gate, and that worked for me.

@@Electriangle Thank you for your response. I tried a lot but could not make the low pass filter work, so I ended up adding switch between 12v & 4/8 pins. works fine. I made 4 of these & using them to control my RGB strip(brightness + RGB). However, no matter what value cap I choose, at certain color level or brightness level, it flickers! I assume it's probably because of the 4 frequencies interacting.. I tried adding some caps in parallel but it's not smoothing the signal enough.. I know it's not related to the video but please let me know if you can think of any possible solutions. Thanks again.

​@@kuro758 Yes, I agree, it probably has something to do with the frequencies interacting. Specifically, I think the signals are getting out of sync as you adjust to a certain brightness/color. For example, as one of the signal states goes high, another goes low. If the frequency is too low, that might be perceived as flickering to the eye. I think if you can get the frequency high enough, it should be able to hide that issue. What value of capacitance are you using to set the frequency? Also, is the potentiometer a 10Kohm? I can check what frequency you're running at if I plug them in the simulator. I've started to realize from the comments that I should have shown the configuration for a higher frequency than 1kHz since it seems to not be very ideal for several of the applications I've heard.

@@Electriangle Yess! You could do that? The pots are 22k & capacitance 22 nF! It's set up like this 12V → R,G,B → R,G,B pwm control → Main pwm control → Ground. Thanks a lot!

@@kuro758 I checked in the simulation with a 22k pot and 22 nF cap, and you're operating at around 2.5kHz. But actually, I didn't realize before that you were using two of these controller circuits in series for brightness + RGB. Now that you mentioned your setup, it might not be as simple as increasing the frequency... Can I ask / suggest, do you need to include that Main PWM controller circuit for controlling brightness? Since you already have the three brightness controllers, wouldn't they work independently without the Main one to control the brightness for each color + the whole strip?

Yes! This is a demo of my latest LED project. I’m working on preparing the tutorial video for how it was made.

I don’t think I understand your question exactly, but you could potentially use this 555 timer circuit or a similar one as a PWM controller for a servo motor or a dc motor. Depending on the application, you should adjust the operating frequency by changing the capacitor value. A MOSFET is needed to provide a higher current drive to the output.

At least it’s beautiful 😁. I don’t expect most people to have my exact setup, but hopefully it can be an inspiring concept for other LED project ideas. Also, you wouldn’t be able to see it from this video, but I actually have the equivalent of three desk spaces in my room. So work space is not a problem for me 😉. At some point I’ll post my full desk setup to show each of my DIY projects together.

That's his table and he can do whatever he wants with it. Also not all PC monitors come with VESA brackets.

If it was pointless, why would he have it on his desk?

Pointless? the only pointless thing here is your comment, and what workspace would you have under the monitor?

To be honest, I had wondered before making it if it was too basic to even need a video on. But then I realized that things can only become basic info after you have learned it first. So I am glad to hear the feedback that it was helpful!

:o I figured it out. You can do a RC low pass filter on the base of the output Mosfet to get it to turn on only after the "average" voltage is about 0.6Volt (or whatver your mosfet base voltage is) by using a capacitor and resistor in series. Then you got that satisfying effect of it only turning on when you turn the potentiometer at least a little bit. So turning it to far left is "Off".

@@MattFixesStuff Nice! That's cool, glad you enjoy the circuit :). That's right, a low pass filter on the output would slow down that MOSFET turn-on time enough to keep the output off. For my circuit, I settled on just using a push-button switch to turn it on and off, but that's a good upgrade idea you had there. So, for your first comment, it technically could work without the diodes, but the disadvantage is that your brightness / output power control range (at least based on this circuit design) would be limited to 60% - 99%. Adding the diodes in gives that extra range so that it can be adjusted from 10% - 99%. (I had tried to remove the diodes when building this to simplify the circuit, but then realized this limitation after analyzing it).

@@MattFixesStuff hey this sounds really cool, could you please explain how to calculate the values for R & C? I tried reading about it but I'm lost. I'm using IRFZ44N same as the video.

@@kuro758 I just put a 50k potentiometer and 10uF capacitor if I remember correctly. then I played with the potentiometer until I hit the sweet spot. (then replacing the potentiometer with a normal resistor). My mosfet is a BS270.

@@MattFixesStuff thank you!

I love to hear it! I actually bought another three more of these led strips after doing this one. I’m always keeping a stock ready for whenever a project inspiration strikes 😄.

I'm not sure I understand... could you clarify? Are you trying to actually use the "Custom Office Templates"? This video is meant to show how to hide this folder in case you don't want to see it appearing in the Documents folder anymore (Microsoft decided to have it generate there by default, but I never use it).

@@Electriangle I want to save it in the folder I have navigated to, not be redirected to a 'Templates' folder. As in, when I click 'save as' then change the format to 'template', Explorer should stay in the folder I've navigated to.

@@BlackSailPass_GuitarCovers I see what you are saying now. I tried to find a way, but I don't think that it is possible to change that. Since Word references a single location point for all the custom office templates (the "Default personal templates location"), it appears they decided to build it in the source code for the file explorer to jump to that location by default.

Yes, it does work with more rows of text. I just tested it to confirm. You simply add another segment and adjust the start and stop boundaries. For example, you could make the first segment "Start Y" set to 0 and the "Stop Y" set to 8. Then for the second segment, you could make the "Start Y" set to 8 and the "Stop Y" set to 16. The only thing is you can't have less than 6 pixels tall or the text will get cut off. That is the minimum height it needs to display the letters. So for my matrix project shown in the video, it doesn't fit with the example I gave. But if your matrix project is bigger, then it will work fine.

Yes, you can use to do that. It is similar in functionality to line breaker in HTML because you can insert multiple of them and it will continue to add new lines. For example, to achieve that spacing you are asking about, you can put two next to each other like this: print("Eric John Albert") And that will output with additional line spaces as you showed.

Yes, do you mean combine them into one Arduino sketch to switch between them? I decided to format the code for these videos so that the animations can be activated simply by calling a single function. So, depending on your project, if you want to use a button to switch between them or switch after a certain time limit, you will be able to add that into the loop() of the Main sketch and call the rainbowCycle() or ShootingStar() function based on a conditional statement. Just download and put both the Shooting_Star_Animation.ino and the RainbowCycle_Animation.ino files in the same Arduino folder together and each function can be called within the Main sketch.

That's a good question. I realized after making the video I should have used a better example to show this. The space would remain there, and any other characters beyond that would also remain there. It simply overwrites the characters starting from the beginning. Here is another example to show that: print("example word") Output: wordple

For these FastLED demo videos, I've been using a large plastic diffusion sheet that I had pulled from a broken TV. I try to pull out the diffusion sheets when I see a TV being thrown away. They are not always as nice as this one, but when they are, they can be a good way to get a free diffusion sheet for DIY projects.

Yes, that should work as an equivalent part. The specifications on those are very similar from what I saw in the datasheets. The diodes in this circuit do not need to have a specific feature, they only need to control the direction for charge and discharge currents through the potentiometer.

i checked the specifications before but from what you are saying, as long as it can manage the maximum voltage and current of this circuit, any diode should be fine right? @@Electriangle

@@Littlenet Correct, any standard diode or Schottky diode should work fine.

I love this response 😄!

@@Electriangle ❤️

Thanks! That holder is the Omnifixo OF-M4 which I bought from their website ( omnifixo.com/ ). It was fairly expensive compared to most other third-hand soldering tools I saw, but I use it so much that I decided it was worth getting a good quality one for my work. So far it has been a great tool to have and I am very happy with its design and how useful it is.

Thank you very much. I am impressed about that tool.....and wonder why i have never seen it before. It´s sweedisch and not from IKEA :-) looks very nice. I have to buy it soon, because my eyes are getting worse. Thank you so much and greetings from Germany

@@timogeiger1377 Yes, it's definitely a product I would recommend. I hope you enjoy it for your projects! :)

Unfortunately, the does not seem to work within most browsers and will get ignored. I just tested it in the Chrome dev environment and saw the same result where it got ignored. The way that any of the escape characters will be interpreted is up to the environment used. If you were to use another environment, such as Node.js, this escape character should work as expected.

In the WLED application, you can use the "segments" tab to separate the lights into parts and control them with different effects. You need to define the segments by typing the start and stop LEDs for each segment (for example, 0 to 50 for one segment, then add a new segment for 51 to 100, etc.). When the checkmark for the segment is active, then it will change the effect for that segment. If you search for "WLED segments" on UA-cam, you can find a tutorial that can help explain how to use them.

Thanks, I hope it does come soon for you too :) !

Great! Glad to hear that :)

​@@ElectriangleHey..i would really appreciate if you reply again..i am planning to make another one..and this time i wanted to know what would happen if i used those 1 nano farad ceramic capacitors..idk if they are ceramic..they are brown coloured ones.. with 104 written on them

@@ishandiptagarai852 Yes, those sound like the ceramic disk capacitors. I have those similar caps with 104 written on them. Those are actually the same as 0.1uF value (The 104 represents a 10 followed by 4 zeros. So 100,000 picoFarads, which equals 0.1microFarads). Those will work fine in the circuit. It should also still be ok down to 1 nanoFarads if you have that value too. That would set the switching frequency to about 100kHz for the circuit based on the simulation.

@@Electriangle thank for the reply.. They are 0.1uf too..still new to these things..😅 my bad.. Actually there is a visible flicker when i use the circuit to drive leds and at the lowest brightness setting there is a flicker not in the leds but when i move something in the light.. I know there should be a flicker but will going with a lower value capacitor slightly reduce the flicker..as you know high brightness is not always required..also when i use the circuit to control anything with a coil in it.. there is a audible noise coming from it at all speeds..the circuit works fine with a motor but the noise is really bad..idk if it's a problem with my circuit..

@@ishandiptagarai852 Yeah, the frequency I had in the video is set to 1kHz which is in the audible range. I just tested the circuit again connecting it to a different mini DC motor and now I hear that audible noise you are talking about. So to improve this circuit, it will be better to use a higher frequency. You can use a lower value capacitor to do that. If you have a "103" or "102" of that capacitor type (a 10nF or 1nF), that would be a better value to put you out of the audible range of frequency. I tested the circuit with a 103 cap and the noise went away. And I'm not sure which LEDs or input voltage you are using, but I think using a higher frequency could fix your flickering issue as well. (Also, make sure you are using a flyback diode across your motor... I forgot to add it when I was testing and then noticed 70Volts surges in my circuit! I probably shortened the lifespan of some of these components😅).

There is still another way to hide the folder if you'd like. Check out my other video about hiding Windows folders: ua-cam.com/video/RJ77QxUhWhU/v-deo.html

Ok, thanks for the suggestion. I can try to work on the code for this for a new video.

Actually, Daniel Wilson has already made a nice bouncing ball code. Is this what you are looking for? ua-cam.com/video/UCeNXBzHL_U/v-deo.html

@@Electriangle ok thanks for reply sir ❤️

How to upload this code to an ATtiny85 microcontroller and combine all effects (ball, fire, fade, rainbow, knight rider) into a single program that runs sequentially with a 10-second delay between each effect

@@vinothkumar.i5471 I have not been able to get the FastLED library to work on the ATtiny85 microcontroller. Also, the ATtiny85 has very limited flash and RAM, so I doubt it would be able to handle all these effects without running out of memory. I suggest you look for another microcontroller. If you want a small one, the ESP8266 Wemos D1 Mini microcontroller might work for what you need. An Arduino Nano or ESP32 could also work.

My code was written using the API of SinricPro. You will need to make a SinricPro account ( sinric.pro/ ). In the "Devices" tab, add a new device with any name and description and set the Device Type to "Smart Light Bulb". The code I wrote uses a trick to switch between the different animations by switching the color temperature mode when commanded. After that, you need to type in all the SinricPro information that was generated from the website into the CeilingLEDs_Main.ino file and upload it onto your ESP8266. (Make sure your WiFi information is also typed in there, and don't share any of these items below publicly). I also assume you will update the number of LEDs and pinouts as needed for your project when you upload. #define WIFI_SSID "YOUR_WIFI_SSID" #define WIFI_PASS "YOUR_WIFI_PASS" #define APP_KEY "YOUR_SINRICPRO_APP_KEY" #define APP_SECRET "YOUR_SINRICPRO_APP_SECRET" #define LIGHT_ID "YOUR_SINRICPRO_LIGHT_ID" Then, there is a SinricPro skill in the Alexa mobile app store which you can install to link with your new account. I will need to think about the next steps now because I had used this code with IFTTT and Google Home for my room instead of Alexa.... The Alexa may have a different way to connect with the lights.

@@Electriangle ok ok thank you so mucho for you help, good night

@@Electriangle Hi, I have already done everything that you have explained to me so far but it keeps giving me an error, it is very strange, the code is uploaded but it gives me an error, and well, Sinric Pro does not detect it. This is the error it gives me: In file included from c:\Users\banan\OneDrive\Documentos\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/FastLED.h:79, from C:\Users\banan\Downloads\CeilingLEDs_Main\CeilingLEDs_Main.ino:26: c:\Users\banan\OneDrive\Documentos\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/fastspi.h:157:23: note: '#pragma message: No hardware SPI pins defined. All SPI access will default to bitbanged output' 157 | # pragma message "No hardware SPI pins defined. All SPI access will default to bitbanged output" | ^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ . Variables and constants in RAM (global, static), used 0 / 80192 bytes (0%) ║ SEGMENT BYTES DESCRIPTION . Instruction RAM (IRAM_ATTR, ICACHE_RAM_ATTR), used 32768 / 65536 bytes (50%) ║ SEGMENT BYTES DESCRIPTION ╚══ ICACHE 32768 reserved space for flash instruction cache . Code in flash (default, ICACHE_FLASH_ATTR), used 0 / 1048576 bytes (0%) ║ SEGMENT BYTES DESCRIPTION A fatal esptool.py error occurred: Cannot configure port, something went wrong. Original message: PermissionError(13, 'Uno de los dispositivos conectados al sistema no funciona.', None, 31)esptool.py v3.0 Serial port COM6

@@Richi379 That is fine. That is just a warning message, not an error. I saw that warning too when I uploaded this code. I remember trying to research that but didn't find a clear explanation for why that shows there. If SinricPro does not detect it, you will have to do a little troubleshooting... It will be good to verify you can turn on and control the light animations directly from the SinricPro website before connecting it to Alexa. Since the code is uploading properly, maybe double-check for any typos or copy-paste errors for all the SinricPro and WiFi information in the code. Do you have a way to check your router and see if the ESP8266 is connecting to your WiFi at least?

@@Electriangle With what you just told me, I think it's not connecting to Wi-Fi 😅 the thing is that my internet is very bad and it gets saturated with devices and I have to disconnect devices to connect others but it doesn't always work, tomorrow I'll try to do it again to see if It's already detected, thanks :D

Hi. Everything on GitHub is the complete code: github.com/Electriangle/CeilingLEDs_Main Are you using an ESP8266 microcontroller or a different Arduino board? The error seems to indicate that the primary issue is an invalid pin was used. Did you use the same pin numbers in the code, or did you update that for your project? const int LED_PIN_1 = 16; // Output pin 1 for LED lights const int LED_PIN_2 = 2; // Output pin 2 for LED lights

@@Electriangle aaaaaa I had misunderstood how to do it, thank you

@@Electriangle Hi, I have doubts with these steps: Step 2) Extract folder to desired file location. Step 3) All the .ino files must both be within a folder together named CeilingLEDs_Main. Rename folder to match. Step 4) Open CeilingLEDs_Main.ino and adjust variables as required. Step 5) Upload code to Arduino I really didn't understand how to do it 😅

@@Richi379 Which step did you need help on? Once you have downloaded the files from GitHub, it will change the folder name. Since the Arduino IDE needs the main filename to match the folder name, you'll have to rename the folder to CeilingLEDs_Main. Then it should be able to open and compile.

@@Electriangle I don't know what it is or how to open CeilingLEDs_Main.ino

Hi, I am gradually working through making more videos on the other escape sequences. I just released a new video on the \f form feed character here: ua-cam.com/video/GYLmRJ-dVhE/v-deo.html . I haven't done a video on the \v vertical tab yet, but will eventually. Here's my playlist of all the escape sequence characters I've covered so far: ua-cam.com/play/PLnbFWOJdmpQ2Aj6YBWmavlitSjzVFDDkW.html .

I noticed that the output can vary for different online code editors because they do not correctly interpret the " " escape character. Which code editor do you use to run Python? I like to use the Visual Studio Code editor (that's the one in the video). I also tested it with the online Python 3 console ( www.python.org/shell/ ) and it works there. When you execute this code: print("WelcomeToCoding World") It should output this: WorldmeToCoding It keeps the old text there and begins overlapping with the new.

Yes, if it is blinking, it sounds like the frequency might be set too low. If the frequency is low enough, that would be a different application for this circuit :). Try using a lower capacitor value. That will increase the frequency because a smaller capacitor can charge and discharge faster. The potentiometer resistance also affects the frequency (a lower resistance potentiometer would increase the frequency), but the best way to set it would be to change the capacitor value to a smaller value. You should expect the capacitor value to be in the nano-Farads range to get the right frequency. This is the online circuit simulator I used in the video if you want to build the virtual circuit and experiment with changing all the values. I'll put my circuit file in the GitHub link in the description in case anyone else wants to import the one I made: www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html And this is a calculator I tried to use... It's not really accurate since this circuit is configured differently with the diodes, but I used it a little to give myself a rough estimate (within a few hundred Hertz) of what the frequency would be: ohmslawcalculator.com/555-astable-calculator

I haven't used epoxy before, but I would like to try it and learn how to use it in some LED diffusion projects like this. This hot glue technique is ok for smaller light projects, but epoxy seems like the better way to go for larger light diffusion builds. I just bought some recently, so I will be experimenting with it soon!