Відео

Another simple test is to grip the extruder gear while its extruding, it should be hard to stop the motor, if its easy to stop then the motor is on its way out. Ideally you need two motors so you can compare the difference in torque.

Chinese Customs checking the box for SOS letters. 🤦

The supplied servo may not have enough torque to do the job. You might want to consider a Savox SH-0255MGP servo, however it is pricey.

I ordered a 10 spool pack almost 1/2 year ago. After some back and forth I filed a paypal dispute and then they immediately responded with, "Dear friend so sorry.Did you file a dispute with Paypal? We don't seem to be able to get a refund, so please withdraw the dispute first." I withdrew my dispute at their request and then they said they couldn't refund me. So I asked them to ship me the filament and they ignored me. Keeping a customer's money and not delivering an order is what you might expect. Not worth the risk when there is so much competition in this industry. I recognize many people receive their orders and good for you but in my 15+ years of 3d printing, this is the only company that has ripped me off.

Great work there! Can you tell if ESP32 D1 mini would work for this project?

Would you be willing to release the fw for the 4.2.2 board ender 3 v2 stmf32 with the klicky and filament run out working

Thanks for the video. But Is there actually any, if at all, Carbon Fibre in this. I see so many conflicting ads.

very informative! I've learned a lot - Thanks!😃

Don't looks good. I like the geeetech TPU 95A filament

this is the carbon fiber 15% filament? do you need a all metal hot end for this? or stock parts are fine?

Why does it take 10 minutes to only open the box?

These are crap just cause it's more mechanical then the proximity sensors so they seem to fail more for me. I do run a farm with both and these are the worst, doesn't matter if it's bl touch, 3d touch or even cr touch.

The dancing logo girl is kind of distracting, Loose the girl Bro! LOL , oH video is ok too!

So for 9 bucks is it worth buying it?

What options are better to use for this CR PLA? I bought a couple of rolls but I’ve been having issues with stringing and the first layer being a little flat even though with other PLA it was flawless.

Useless. Step by step almost three hours doing something normal people do in twenty minutes. I'll better stay with bltouch.

Just tested mine. 60mm/s outer line, 1.6mm layer lines, 220C 0.4mm nozzle, 55C textured bed temp. Had better results in the past with other filament but worked quite ok on a Bambu P1S, open Top.

Awesome guide but I have gotten hung up like 4 times already attempting to flash my ender 3 pro 4.2.2/CR touch with the Klipper.bin file that kiauh puts in the out folder (yes I made sure to change file name to something that was different than previous flash). Also idk what I’m doing wrong but the MCU in the config file, it never seems to work unless that’s bc the flash isn’t working?

Thank you very much for testing. This is helpful for all 3D printing enthusiasts. We will also accept your feedback, carefully analyze the reasons, and produce better 3D filament for 3D printing enthusiasts. After seeing your video 6 months after you posted it, we are late. The current HELLO3D has made great progress in the arrangement of two-color and three-color. I hope we can test the 3D filament produced in 2024 again. Sometimes the feed wheel of the 3D printer will also have an impact on the color arrangement!

I followed this and got an error, can you tell me how to fix this? 'USBHIDKeyboard' does not name a type

Wow! The Hulk shows us how it's done!

Just got 2 of this PLA for my first ever fdm printer, great video!

I came here because I have not seen an big difference between my $13 and $23 filament. I've bought about a hundred spools over the course of my 3d printing endeavors. But THIS particular brand has been good. I got the blue, it was such a perfect spot on blue, and printed perfectly, so I bought it again. Now I have their black and just got the high-speed orange. And its like $13 a spool. I don't get it. How do some brands charge so much?

Cant get this to work. There is no main printer_data folder. only a data folder for each instance. I have KlipperScreen.conf in my main folder and in each config folder. All i can get its my port 7125 printer to work with klipperscreen. It shows no other printers in the klipperscreen connected printer menu. Everything works fine through the browser. any ideas?

1.6 ......1.6........1.6.... OK so it's perfect 1.75 ? Am I missing something?

Thank you for sharing. I purchased CC3D silk filament. Looking forward to buying the PETG after your review.

How has the belted Z held up?

Currently having issues with my kingroon green that’s why I watched. I’ll have to download some test pieces for it to print. Tried printing a bigger piece and it leaves little blobs of residue that catch later in the print

Hard to believe that such hard work is liked only 4 times(( Hands up for your project! Very nice, I'll do it asap

Can't get this to stay on the bed and the corners curl up. I've now given up and dumped it.

I have a modified horse end that is longer and everytime I try to home it crashes to the bed violently lol what setting can I change to get it to probe on the bed

thanks for review, I am learning the printer with this pla in matte white :) to boot my roll is 2-3 years old.. after watching I got the idea to get through the roll quicker and order something else since I have had nothing but problems.. :) well I may have fixed most my noob issues by increasing the speed to 100mm and lowering the print quality to .28, and temp at 200c have ender 3 v2 (no upgrades) with cura slicer.. So again, Thanks again somehow you got across to me a gift of insight I needed! ... only other setting I changed has been the estep from 93 to 105.. :)

Thank you dude!!!!

Use the silver a while a go for a large Mech Godzilla no problem at all.

could you use one screen (on my mini pc) but add a klipperscreen from a pi? if that makes sense?

Probe is always triggered for me and no idea what to even do

Thanks man 👍

could you also add chapters so it is easy to navigate to the part where we need help for? Thanks a lot for the video!

Many thanks to your vidéo I think I meet the same problem than you. the top of the pin was shattered and the pin won't goes down after some actions. I remove the top sheath and naked parts off the magnet. I had a new thermo-sheath with some plistic inside. And my BL touch is alive again. great job

too long video with bad focus. gratz

Nice video my fiend 👍🏻

Got mine all built, now to figure out how to compile Marlin MriscoC firmware that is configured for using this probe on my Ender 3 V2. I’ve been watching vids on the subject, but it seems like a tall order.

I've been looking for an alternative for the CR touch probe (it works well but has an annoying rattle when the toolhead moves & there's no viable fix) so this might be it thank you!!

Best mod I ever did on my Ender-3. I have the same main board. I setup the belt on the left. Removed it and made sure the other side was the same length. Then I adjusted them just past level till they had a little twang. Prior to this I printed two spacers that hook to the top and had blocks on the bottom. Once you clip them on you can run x axis to the top. If it is uneven it will click. Then run it down a little and back up to check again. You can also loosen one of the top pulleys to adjust level of the x-axis. I found out by trying to level by the belt tensioners. That is only what they are for not to level.

The cube on the left had to be printed at a different layer height. I can see the layers are thicker. I am about to do this mod to my CR-10. Thank you for actually showing the results. I was worried that a belted Z would have more inconsistent layers than the lead screws. All of the other videos with this mod they don't compare the results. I was worried this was another instance of, people modding their printers for the sake of modding them and actually making the printer worse.

I would suggest ordering parts kit through DFH. They also have the hardware kit. I got my kit off of AliExpress from a supposed Poge kit and my belts did not come Poge as was shown in the listing. DFH kit did not exist when I bought mine. I did end up buying the hardware kit from DFH and it looks good. I also got the kit from DFH for the KlackEnder. Also, the Ali kit said it was good for a CR-10 as well as Ender. Everything should be the same accept the shaft needs to be longer for the CR-10. The shaft the Ali kit had is only good for the Ender, too short for CR-10. So their listing is not correct.

Sorry, but one coil does not make the shaft turn one direction and the other coil make go the other direction. Both coils are needed to make the shaft turn in both directions.

Keep on mine when you used the calipers, you ended up using the angle ends vs the flat end. Can throw off your measurement or cut into the filament and give you a false reading. Just my two. Cents. Appreciate the review though looks like decent filament.

The metal extruder will give the same issue. I came up with the exact same setup but i couldnt get the screw under the tension arm at all! Also so the gantry will slowly lower when not powered? Thats normal?

Im waiting for magnets and gonna install it, your video probably will help in process. Thanks. Ps. did silicone "springs" helps with input shaper graph? Did reassembled whole printer like 5 times already, almost got clean graphs with mzv shaper. But i still have small peak on both graphs from left side of graph both. Maybe u know what can be the problem?